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Tana Toraja & Bali
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Tana Toraja & Bali

A Wedding, A Funeral, and An Anniversary + My 5th Layover in Tokyo Läs mer
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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Fort Rotterdam.
    Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Fort Rotterdam.Modell of Fort Rotterdam.

    Fort Rotterdam

    11 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Fort Rotterdam was modest in comparison to the grandiose Spanish-built structures I visited in the Caribbean. There was a museum - La Galigo - on Fort Rotterdam’s grounds, but, sadly, it didn’t have much information on what I was most interested in: the fort, its history, battles fought, and everyday life for those charged with defending it. There were, however, informative exhibits on the coastal and seagoing cultures of the area. Overall, I was a little underwhelmed.

    My next goal was to try and sample one of the dishes Makassar is famous for - ikan bakar or grilled fish. I made a beeline for Lae Lae - Lonely Planet’s recommended food choice. There, I savored a small snapper and vegetables. After lunch, I walked along the Losari Beach seafront before heading back to my hotel to savor a few hours at the pool. After that, I headed to the airport for my flight to Denpasar.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Indonesia/Sulaw…    Läs mer

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Losari Beach.
    Losari Beach.My ikan bakar lunch at Lae Lae.Abandoned ship at Losari.Losari Beach.Losari Beach.Mosque off Losari Beach.Mosque off Losari Beach.Mosque off Losari Beach.

    Losari

    11 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    My next goal was to try and sample one of the dishes Makassar is famous for - ikan bakar or grilled fish. I made a beeline for Lae Lae - Lonely Planet’s recommended food choice. There, I savored a small snapper and vegetables. After lunch, I walked along the Losari Beach seafront before heading back to my hotel to savor a few hours at the pool. After that, I headed to the airport for my flight to Denpasar.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär

    Arrival into Bali

    11 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I waited a couple of hours for Trixie as her flight was delayed. While waiting, I found a local warung and had a cheap meal.

    After her arrival, we hired a driver to take us to Santra Putra. I had arranged with Putu to leave our keys in the locks as we would be arriving late. Poor Trixie had trouble hauling her roller bag up the Penestanan steps; I took over halfway.Läs mer

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    My home away from home.
    On the way to Bintang Supermarket.On the way to Bintang Supermarket.On the way to Bintang Supermarket.Doorway, Penestanan.On the way to Bintang Supermarket.On the way to Bintang Supermarket.Penestanan.Blue Devil statue opposite Bintang Supermarket.Golden boobs on a pillar opposite Bintang Supermarket.Friendly pooch at the house where the bamboo straws are manufactured.House where bamboo straws are made. We purchased quite a few.Ravine between Santra Putra and the main part of the village.Ravine behind Santra Putra.Rice fields, Penestanan.Rice fields, Penestanan.Penestanan.Water fountain, Penestanan.Penestanan. Couldn't figure out what the dog was so interested in.Banana flower, Penestanan.

    Penestanan

    12 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ 26 °C

    I first visited Ubud 26 years ago. Back then, there weren’t any Starbucks stores, there were rice fields in the middle of town, and the market sold produce, not penis shaped souvenirs. Despite it becoming overcrowded and overbuilt, Ubud has never lost its grip on me.

    This was my fourth time staying at Santra Putra. The photos here depict scenes from our daily walks in the area, including the back paths to Bintang Supermarket.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Herons roosting, Petulu.
    View of Mt Batur from Penelokan.View of Mt Batur from Penelokan.View of Mt Batur from Penelokan.Funeral aftermath.Funeral aftermath.Our seafood rijsttafel.Cultural performance at the adjacent restaurant.

    Petulu

    13 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ 27 °C

    After lunch, we went to Petulu to watch the herons roost. Unfortunately, it was the quiet season and only a small number of juveniles were roosting. While we were there, we also encountered the remains of a funeral.

    After sundown, we asked Ketut to drop us off in Central Ubud where we had dinner with the wedding party. Trixie and I shared a really good seafood rijsttafel.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    View of Lake Batur from Trunyan.
    View of Lake Batur from Kedisan.The sacred tree that prevents the bodies from smelling bad.The sacred tree.The graves with personal effects, Trunyan.The graves with personal effects, Trunyan.The graves with personal effects, TrunyanThe graves with personal effects, TrunyanThe graves with personal effects, TrunyanThe graves with personal effects, TrunyanSkulls, Trunyan.The graves with personal effects, TrunyanFigurines at gravesite, Trunyan.Figurines at gravesite, Trunyan.Partially submerged houses by the lake shore.Trunyan Village.At our lunch spot in Penelokan.

    Lake Batur & Trunyan

    16 juli 2019, Indonesien

    Apart from Tana Toraja, one other place in Indonesia known for its unusual death rituals is the village of Trunyan, which is located along the shores of Lake Batur, about an hour north of Ubud. This village is unique because, unlike other Balinese who typically cremate their dead, they leave their dead out to decompose next to a sacred tree. The tree is said to mask the smell of the decomposing corpses.

    I’d been to Bali four times before and I’ve always wanted to visit this site, but each time I put off going there because it was difficult and expensive to get to. This time round, with Trixie in tow, I bit the bullet and booked a trip with a local tour company.

    Our driver and guide met us near our accommodation at Penestanan, and he drove us up to Penelokan, a town on the rim of the giant caldera that houses Lake Batur and Mount Batur. From there, he took the winding road into the caldera, stopped at Kedisan on the lake shore, and bought us tickets for the boat. The boat ride across the lake took about 20 minutes. Lake Batur is one of my favorite places in Bali, and I enjoyed the amazing scenery as we made our way across the lake.

    At end of the lake, we disembarked at a bamboo jetty and walked right up to the cemetery. The first sight that greeted us were some statues, and then the sacred tree, then a wall with skulls piled on top, and finally about nine corpses, each one housed inside a bamboo teepee. The heads and teeth of the corpses were visible, but the rest of the bodies were covered by cloths, and, in some cases, worldly goods that presumably belonged to the deceased. Rather amusingly, one teepee had a pair of crutches balanced on it. True to what has previously been reported, there was no smell. I had no idea how long the corpses had been there, but the bamboo for at least two of the teepees weren't too discolored.

    After our visit, we made our way back to Kedisan, drove back up to the crater rim, and had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the brilliant scenery. We made our way back to Ubud after lunch.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/trunyan

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Bedugul Botanic Garden.
    Trixie consulting her book on Balinese birds.Carnivorous pitcher plant.Carnivorous pitcher plant.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.Bedugul Botanic Garden.

    Bedugul

    18 juli 2019, Indonesien

    One of the hazards of visiting Ubud is that you get sucked in and you never explore other parts of Bali. In my four prior visits, I’d only made a handful of day trips out of Ubud. This time round, I decided to venture further afield. I’d heard positive reports about the mountain town of Munduk, northwest of Ubud, so we decided to head there for a couple of days in addition to my usual time in Penestanan and Ubud.

    Our driver Ketut picked us up and headed north. Our first stop was the Bedugul Botanic Gardens for Trixie to do some bird watching. The gardens were really pretty. Highlights for me were the begonia house and a flower-lined passageway leading to the convention center.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    The most instagrammed spot in Bali.
    Procession from the temple.Procession at Lake Bratan. Note the kitcschy corn cob trash bin in the background.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Cat on tin roof, Lake Bratan.There was a caged area with what I think it a sikka deer inside.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.Lake Bratan.

    Lake Bratan

    18 juli 2019, Indonesien

    Our next stop was Lake Bratan. Ketut dropped us off at a spot with some warungs selling local food, but they all looked closed or were just opening. We walked a little way down the road and found a buffet restaurant that was open. Bad mistake. The food was forgettable and while we were eating several buses disgorged their tourists onto the restaurant. It got loud in there very quickly.

    After lunch, we went to the famous temple on the shores of Bratan. This is probably one of the most instagrammed places in Bali, showing the pagodas set against the lake. Sadly, reality didn’t live up to Instagram. The complex was schizophrenic... it couldn’t decide what it wanted to be. The instagram-famous pagodas were there, but the grounds were like a wannabe theme park without the rides. There were animal statues all over, the trash bins were in the shape of giant fruit, there was a place to take pictures with animals. There was a functioning temple that was off limits, and we witnessed a procession from that temple. It was as if this place couldn’t decide what it wanted to be. Worst of all, there were lots of tourists and the typical temple dress code was not enforced, so there were lots of knees, thighs, and shoulders on display. The whole place just had an odd vibe. Regardless, the lake scenery was amazing, and the procession was fantastic random encounter.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Sunset at Munduk viewed from our dinner spot.
    Munduk.We saw many preparations for Galunggan. I am so bummed at missing it yet again.

    Munduk

    18 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After the waterfall, we headed to Munduk, which turned out to be a sleepy one street town set among stunning mountain scenery. I wasn’t too impressed on first look. I could see that it would hold some charm for people who were less Type A than I am, though. After checking in, we walked around, and ate an early dinner at a restaurant with a great view of the sunset. We chilled after dinner. While chilling, a gamelan orchestra started playing directly down the slope. They were probably rehearsing for Galunggan which will take place a few days from now. I am bummed as this is the second time I am missing Galunggan ( the first was in 2011).

    The next day, we got back to Munduk in the mid-afternoon. While sitting on the verandah, another man named Putu came by on his motorcycle. We struck up a conversation and he invited us to his house, which was just down the hill from our accommodation, for dinner (for a price). While the price was a little steep (it was cheaper than restaurant meals but dearer than street food) I couldn’t say no as this would be an interesting way to observe a Balinese household. Besides, you can’t help but admire his entrepreneurial spirit.

    Putu’s 12-year old daughter Sophie came to get us later that evening. We first sat on a carpet on the floor of his verandah drinking tea. We chatted and learned a little bit about Putu, his family, and their lives in the village. We were then invited to a little pavilion, where dinner was served. Dinner was a chicken curry, urap (vegetables with a coconut dressing), jagung begedel (corn fritters), and rice. The two vegetable dishes were amazing. Dessert was dodol (sweetened grated coconut wrapped in a pandan skin; Sophie made this dish) and freshly harvested papaya. All the ingredients of this meal were so fresh. I couldn’t think of a better way to wrap up this trip.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Air Sanih.

    Air Sanih

    19 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I would have been content to hike to a nearby waterfall on our last day in Bali, but Trixie wanted to check out a natural spring east of Singaraja, so we hired a car and driver. Putu, our driver, took us down the mountain and east along the coast, passing Lovina and Singaraja, before depositing us at the natural springs in Yeh Sanih. It took almost two hours to get there. The springs were pretty and all, but I wouldn’t have driven two hours for that.

    On our way back, we asked Putu to recommend an ikan bakar (grilled fish) restaurant as we had both been craving that dish. West of Lovina, Putu drove us to a seaside restaurant. We selected two small fish and some prawns, and then sat at a little hut awaiting our food. The seafood was fresh and this meal really hit the spot.

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär

    A Home Cooked Dinner & Parting Thoughts

    19 juli 2019, Indonesien ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    We got back to Munduk in the mid-afternoon. While sitting on the verandah, another man named Putu came by on his motorcycle. We struck up a conversation and he invited us to his house, which was just down the hill from our accommodation, for dinner (for a price). While the price was a little steep (it was cheaper than restaurant meals but dearer than street food) I couldn’t say no as this would be an interesting way to observe a Balinese household. Besides, you can’t help but admire his entrepreneurial spirit.

    Putu’s 12-year old daughter Sophie came to get us later that evening. We first sat on a carpet on the floor of his verandah drinking tea. We chatted and learned a little bit about Putu, his family, and their lives in the village. We were then invited to a little pavilion, where dinner was served. Dinner was a chicken curry, urap (vegetables with a coconut dressing), jagung begedel (corn fritters), and rice. The two vegetable dishes were amazing. Dessert was dodol (sweetened grated coconut wrapped in a pandan skin; Sophie made this dish) and freshly harvested papaya. All the ingredients of this meal were so fresh. I couldn’t think of a better way to wrap up this trip.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Indonesia/Bali/…    Läs mer

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär
    Passport stamps for Indonesia.

    Denpasar to Kuala Lumpur

    20 juli 2019, Indonesien

    Malaysia Airlines MH714 | DPS/KUL
    Business Class
    Airbus A330-300 | 9M-MTI
    ATD/1314 | ATA/1618
    Lounge: Premier Lounge
    =================================================================

    Trixie and I arrived quite a bit before our flights. The staff at the Premier Lounge would not let me bring her in as a guest. We hung out first, then she went to board her flight to Perth, and I went to the lounge to await my flight. As I waited for my flight, I realized that our friendship has now spanned Singapore, Australia, the UK, Thailand, and now Indonesia!

    This was my ninth trip to Indonesia. Outside of Bali, getting about can be a little challenging. But, I absolutely love this country. It never fails to surprise. After Bali, I headed to Singapore for a whirlwind 30 hour visit where I surprised my parents by showing up for their 60th anniversary celebration.    Läs mer

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  • SiewchTana Toraja & BaliResenär

    Kuala Lumpur to Singapore

    20 juli 2019, Malaysia ⋅ 32 °C

    Malaysia Airlines MH613 | KUL/SIN
    Business Class
    Airbus A330-300 | 9M-MTC
    ATD/1713 | ATA/1831

    This shuttle flight was slightly unusual because it took a roundabout route to get to Changi Airport; it went south over Indonesia and then lined up to land from the north. We were led to x-ray machines for arrival screening, which is rare in Singapore as most passengers can proceed to immigration or to their next gate without screening on arrival.Läs mer

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