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Cycling East
  • Silke und Hauke
elok. 2017 – heinäk. 2018

Cycling East

315-päiväinen seikkaillu — Silke und Lue lisää
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  • Matkan aloitus
    30. elokuuta 2017
    Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja

    Off we go!

    30. elokuuta 2017, Saksa ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The day has come. After we finished yesterday's packing session and handed over our flat keys, we're ready to hit the road. Everything we own is on our bikes now. By this post we also wanna say thank you to everyone who joined our party to say good bye and celebrate Silke's graduation as well as to the ones who couldn't make it - for sure we gonna miss you! Many thanks go also to everyone who supported us during the preparation or wished us all the best for our trip.Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Found a nice spot for the first night
    1Tight race with a ship1Hauke having a napWarming up by a solid soup1Clear sky raises hope for a sunny day1The result of a rainy day

    Our journey begins

    1. syyskuuta 2017, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We made our first 150km along the rivers Weser and Aller, heading towards Magdeburg.
    After we had sunshine and tailwind on the first day, the second one forced us to test our rain equipment. However, we're lucky enough to find a shelter each time the next shower of rain came over us. We've already noticed that people along our way are always curious about what we need so much baggage for, leading to interesting conversations.Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Frauenkirche - we made it to the old town of Dresden
    Noble art of porcelain manufacturing

    Dresden - Our first milestone

    6. syyskuuta 2017, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Almost 600km of cycling along the rivers Weser and Elbe brought us to historical Dresden. After leaving Lower-Saxony we've mastered a few little hills and enjoyed some rapid downhill runs during we're mostly blessed with sunshine and mild temperatures. However, one day we also encountered multiple showers of rain so that instead of putting up our tent we decided to spend the night in a hotel. We enjoyed the luxury of a real bed and bath. Again, the last few days we had plenty of sunshine and enjoyed the cycling and camping. Near to Bitterfeld we visited two friends of us and had a really good evening (thanks to Sabrina & Rico!) and in Meissen we got insights into the noble art of the Meissen State Porcelain Manufactory. Now we are in Dresden, where we're staying two nights at Marcus's home who we got to know via Warmshowers which is basically a platform like Couchsurfing for touring cyclists. Marcus is a super friendly easy-going guy who is living right in the beautiful old town. So, it feels like there couldn't be any better place to stay.Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    1Welcome Czech Republic
    Good bye Marcus1Dresden at nightDěkuji moc, Tomas!2The Moldau finally takes us to Prague

    Leaving Germany behind us

    9. syyskuuta 2017, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We crossed our first border - what a strange feeling to know that we won't put any foot on German ground in the next months!
    Due to our host in Dresden, we fell in love with Warmshowers on the first occasion. Many thanks to Marcus, we're super grateful. Thanks again for showing us around, for the dinners, and the rich conversations.
    Behind Dresden, the mountains of Saxon Switzerland pushed us to our limits, but the descents were absolutely breathtaking (we've never rode a bike with almost 60km/h before).
    Tomas from Usti nad Labem, you made our first night in Czechia very comfortable. We'll keep our fingers crossed that you'll cycle to China one day.
    Now we're on a camping spot just before Prague where we enjoy Saturday evening with the Czechs, live music and a few beers.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Ahoj Praha!
    Following the traces of Franz KafkaCharles bridge - more than 600 years oldFantastic view from the castle1Inside the biggest enclosed castle in the world

    Lovely Prague

    12. syyskuuta 2017, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After spending one and a half day of sightseeing in Prague, we are both really impressed how gorgeous this city is - especially all the alleys with their old buildings and cobbled stone streets. Some of the sights we visited were the old town, the jewish quarter, the historic Charles bridge, and the Prague Castle with the St. Vitus Cathredal.
    Leaving this beautiful city behind us we continued cycling South - cresting again one mountain after another (yes, this part of Czechia is quite hilly).
    Right now we're at Matt's home in Sedlčany who is already our third Warmshowers host (we fell in love with the hospitality of the Warmshowers hosts!). Matt is British and teaches English at a local school. This morning we're visiting one of his classes to talk with his Czech students about our trip and everything that might interest them about us and Germany. Looking really forward to this experience! :)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Even ducks are curious...
    1Visiting Matt's 3OA English class in SedlčanyThanks Matt!Enjoying the last sunrays of the day1Climbing through Czech forests1Found a gorgeous spot to set up our tent (and take a bath)

    Discovering Greenways

    13. syyskuuta 2017, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Greenways is a cycle route connecting Prague with Vienna we got to know from Matt. Thanks for that and the opportunity to talk to your English class - it was a great experience for us!
    We're getting more and more used to the Czech hills, cycled through beautiful forests today and learned about the destruction of Novych Mlynu (Neumühl) where we touched the border to Austria.
    The Greenways took us to a gorgeous lake in Osika where we gonna spend the night - and if we're in a good shape tomorrow, we will crack our first 1000km :-)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Thayabridge marks a historical checkpoint
    Our favourite spot so far2We cracked our first 1000km!Last ancient remains of the Iron Curtain in CzechiaAnother country - Grüß Gott, Welcome to Austria!

    Hello Austria

    16. syyskuuta 2017, Itävalta ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    We cracked our first 1000km on a section characterized by plenty of hills and heavy wind - and rewarded ourselves with a cocktail in the evening :-)
    From the Greenways, we went onto the Iron Curtain Trail and crossed the 'No Man's Land' between the Iron Curtain and the actual border, whose inhabitants were forcibly removed and their villages demolished. Between 1948 and 1989 a total of 390 people were killed on the Czech part of the border while trying to escape.
    Yesterday, we reached Lower Austria,
    cycled through a large wine-growing area and earned a few curious "Grüß Gott" until we reached our campsite in Pulkau.
    Now we're heading to Vienna and really look forward to meet our host Samuel and spend a few regenerating days.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    1Thanks a lot Samuel! :)
    1Cosy Sunday at Samuel's homeExploring Vienna at night

    Endless hospitality

    19. syyskuuta 2017, Slovakia ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We reached the Danube which means from now on we continue the well-known flat Danube Cycle Route and ended up in Vienna where we stayed at Samuel's place. For rainy reasons, we had a rest day in Samuel's cosy apartment by sleeping in, breakfasting late, reading, talking about cycling and other bike travelers and planning our further route. In the evening we explored the city center by foot and went to the cinema for the Viennese comedy 'Die Migrantigen' with Samuel and his girlfriend.
    As yesterday we were blessed with better weather we hiked uphill to the Leopoldsberg from where we had great views of the Danube and Vienna. We went out with our bikes which felt quiet weird not feeling the weight of our panniers.
    This morning we hit the road again and followed the Danube till Bratislava - 5 hours of steady rain. We took it calmly as we can't change the weather anyway :)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    1First impressions of Hungary
    Keep on cyclingA muddy affairGerman styleRain can't stop usHello country no. 5 - Hungary!

    Autumn begins

    24. syyskuuta 2017, Unkari ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Slovakia has been a thoroughly wet experience but at least the wind was on our side and pushed us to more than 100km one day. We were a bit surprised how fast we got to Hungary, but the country greeted us with sunshine on a beautiful section of the Danube. After two great days in Budapest we hit the road again and go South now - pictures of the 'Pearl of the Danube' will follow.Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Entering Budapest
    View from Buda to PestLargest parliament of continental EuropeShoes of the Danube - a moving memorial

    Pearl of the Danube

    26. syyskuuta 2017, Unkari ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As Hungary, especially Budapest, is famous for its hundreds of hot springs we were really looking forward to dangle our legs in the healing waters. We found the historical Rudas bath to be the perfect place for us and our muscles were really grateful.

    But as the locals call Budapest the 'pearl', it has a lot more to offer than that: The notorious nightlife with the ruinpubs, cheap beer and expensive cocktails (they were so good that we'll never forget them), the beautiful architecture whereby Art Nouveau meets ugly communists buildings (like Prague, Budapest usually is the site of many "Paris" movies - not so the plot of 'The Spy' which is really set in Budapest) and a lot of history.

    The super greasy Langoš, (called 'communists pizza' by locals, fat bread with sour cream and cheese) rounded out an exciting weekend.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Back in our beloved Croatia
    2Time to relaxReplacing a first worn out chainHow can the Danube be so cold?A warm welcome to SerbiaTasting Borec in Osijek - thanks Tanja&Ivan!

    Short stay in Croatia

    30. syyskuuta 2017, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Heading South, Henrike was a very nice host to us in her beautiful house in Érsekcsanád and gave us time to replace Silkes worn out chain in her garden.
    A result of the dinner before: Peppers can be really really spicy in the country of the peppers and even burn under the fingernails for days...

    After a cold bath in the Danube we went from stronghold to stronghold along the Hungarian-Serbian border greeting Hungarian soldiers with smiles and finally found a crossing to Serbia.
    In Serbia and later that day in Croatia people started to greet and wave us enthusiastically.

    We had an amazing stay at Tanjas & Ivans place in Osijek and there was no end of adventurous cycling stories (among other trips, the two of them cycled almost 2000km within 10 days in the Alps!). We are super grateful for your hospitality!

    Back in Serbia, we continued along the Danube and stopped by at the impressive fortress in Novi Sad for an extended afternoon nap in the sun. Since yesterday, we are in the aspiring city of Belgrade where we're going to spend a few days enjoying Cevapcici, Kajmak and Rakija - well-earned with 2045km on our clock now :)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Picnic in Novi Sad

    Berlin of the Balkans

    2. lokakuuta 2017, Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The fact that we came up against the town sign of Belgrade almost 20km before our hostel in the city center, made us aware of the size of this city. Novi Grad (the new town) welcomed us with new buildings made from steel and glass while on the eastern side of the holy river Save, the old fortress at the outlet into the Danube and a mixture of a few remaining pre-war and concrete buildings are dominating.

    We did not expect too much of the Church of Saint Sava, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, as the inside is still under construction. However, the outer appearance of it (inspired by the Taj Mahal?) and even more the crypt are impressive. We can hardly imagine how it will look like when it is finished and provides space for more than 10,000 people.

    Rakija enriched with honey sweetened our days walking around, exploring the fortress and discovering delicious food in the countless bakeries - and for some reason, Belgrade, 'The White City' reminded us of Berlin.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Fruit break!
    Each ascent is worth itSunset cruising1A perfect place for our tent

    The Iron Gates

    7. lokakuuta 2017, Serbia ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Until the point we reached Serbia we could hardly imagine what it would be about. One thing we've noticed quite from the beginning was the way Serbians are welcoming us in their country (yes, that started right behind the border crossing). People passing by are waving at us and quite a few of them do speak German what makes it a lot easier for us to decode Cyrillic letters.

    Not only the people, but also
    the landscape has impressed us. Especially the section around the Iron Gates where the Danube passes through a narrow long gorge.
    From the little-used road alongside the river we obtained several panoramic views over the gorge - paired with sunny weather we enjoyed perfect days (and one day passed through 21 (!) tunnels along this brilliant road).

    For unknown reasons, we are meeting more and more other cyclists compared to the weeks before - a French guy cycling to Greece, a couple from New Zealand cycling all around Europe, a German women cycling to Istanbul, another one cycling to the Black Sea, a Serbian couple enjoying an extended weekend trip, a French couple cycling the Danube up to Vienna with backpacks on their bicycle racks.

    Right now we're staying in a cosy guesthouse at Bojan's place in Negotin, decided to take a rest day, enjoy tasty tea and pastries and wait for the rain to pass. Tomorrow, we're going to continue our journey and probably reach Bulgaria :)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Breaktime
    Hello sunny Bulgaria!It could be so flat on the Romanian side11Old industrial plants as playgrounds for wild dogs

    Sunny autumn in Bulgaria

    13. lokakuuta 2017, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We've reached our last EU country and our first time zone shift - and it feels as if we're traveling into the past, with omnipresent horse buggies, old Ladas and abandoned villages and industrial facilities (including never finished or decommissioned nuclear power plants). But there are charming lively villages with open-hearted people as well. An old lady bought us two expensive Milka chocolate bars and we believe she told us (with her hands and feet) that we'll need it for the Bulgarian mountains. Yes, communication is sometimes a bit difficult but there's always a way and the OhneWörterBuch we got from Samuel in Vienna has turned out to be quite helpful.

    We're enjoying the quiet, bleak hilly landscape, a gorgeous starlit sky and perfect weather - only sun so far. There are burning bushes alongside the road and we're wondering whether those fires are made on purpose - locals only shrug their shoulders.

    There is no infrastructure for tourists at all on this section of the EuroVelo 6 so our tent became valuable like never before - and we're glad to find a beautiful guesthouse yesterday, including a hot shower.

    We're going to miss the Danube but are definitely excited about the next days and our way to the Black Sea.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Pleasant
    SteepInspirational1AtmosphericLovelyHistorical

    Veliko Tarnovo is really 'veliko'

    15. lokakuuta 2017, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We didn't want to miss this cultural and historical jewel so we left the Danube and pedaled towards the mountainous center of Bulgaria. Veliko Tarnovo kept what it promises with its name - a truly great city!

    Located on three hills above the Yantra river, people only know three directions: Go up, go down, or take the stairs. As the former capital city of Bulgaria, moving history is within one's grasp and nowadays, the city attracts artists looking for inspiration in the picturesque city and landscape. Moreover it's famous for a sound and light show at the spectacular fortress (we couldn't see it this time as there was no public holiday and nobody ordered it, but checking out the videos on YouTube is worth it).

    We stayed in the beautiful house of Jaap from the Netherlands and had a fantastic, intense and informative time with him and he didn't even refuse us to stay one more night. We're very grateful Jaap and we admire your lifework and your strong commitment to the society by conveying Bulgarian traditions and fighting for the environment - and we believe that we've learned a lot about Bulgaria, even reading Cyrillic is getting a small and smaller issue for us.

    Simply put, Veliko Tarnovo is a must!    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    1Well-earned bath
    Endless green mountainsIt's always worth to turn aroundWhen the sun goes downDrowning in garbage - SungurlareSolely by pedal power

    Back at sea level

    21. lokakuuta 2017, Bulgaria ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    With directions from our insider Jaap we felt confident to cross the upcoming range of hills and reach the Black Sea within a few days.

    Cycling along little-used roads through beautiful landscape during a seemingly never ending gypsy summer, we've developed more and more love for this country and its people.

    However, the village of Sungurlare ought to dampen our mood as we found ourselves within reams of garbage surrounding this village. We've already seen and documented a lot of trash along the roads and within the fields in Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Bulgaria but this beats everything so far on our journey - the picture below is just a small snippet. Of course, there are reasons and attempts to explain this mess and we understand that people are working hard and fighting for their daily bread to survive - but what gives people the right to treat our environment like this, no matter how their living conditions look like? We're wondering what we can do about it on our journey to make at least a tiny little change...

    With slightly more than 3000km on our clock we've reached the Black Sea in Burgas. After spending two relaxing days on the beach, today, we're going to jump on a freight ship which will take us to Batumi in Georgia within three nights. We've refused our plan to cycle through Turkey as the Eastern highlands have already seen frost and snow - hardly imaginable how it would look like if we would get there in more than a month :)

    However, we're super excited to get the chance to explore Georgia!    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Hello Batumi!
    3Goodbye Bulgaria1

    Cruising the Black Sea

    24. lokakuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    A cabin with seaview, three meals a day, sunshine, an endless sea and a freight ship called 'Drujba' (means friendship), what did we want more? Well, there was more: At the port of Burgas we met Tural from Azerbaijan who has been cycling all around the world and whose contact we received from Bojan in Negotin. We shared a cabin, of course, and his stories are just amazing. We experienced the crazy truck drivers acting out a solid drinking culture and participated by investing the rest of our Bulgarian money in beer, longdrinks and Schnaps. Gagimardschos!

    Several cute, playful dolphins were guiding us and the beautiful skyline of Batumi with the majestic Caucasus Mountains behind welcomed us to Georgia.

    Heavy spasms in both legs after almost one week without cycling? Hauke almost had to call a taxi for the 3km from the ship to the hostel, but we made it. After quickly checking in our room, we saw the three of us heading towards the next Georgian restaurant with a thrill of anticipation. To say it with Turals words: "This is the moment I've been waiting for more than two years!" (Although he could have gone directly from Azerbaijan to Georgia instead of round the world.) But since we tried our first Khinkali with him we absolutely understand his feelings about this delicious, delicious Georgian specialty, jammy! Combined with Georgian wine and Chacha, even better.

    Batumi looks really impressing and has obviously done a lot for tourists with a well maintained, palm-lined promenade, casinos, clubs and hotels but we were eager to discover the real Georgia and left the next morning to climb the Caucasus Mountains.

    We said goodbye to Tural who would chose a more straight forward route on his way home and promised to meet in Gori, Tbilisi and in his hometown Baku, for sure. See you there, then!    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    22025m a.s.l. - Just proud!
    Leaving a remarkable camp spotAdsorbing forcesStill faster than the truck

    Attacking the Goderdzi Pass

    26. lokakuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our first thought when leaving shimmering Batumi: 'Let the adventure begin!' We encountered cows, pigs and horses in the city and on the roads, black exhaust clouds, overstuffed crammed vans passing by, tobacco, vine and khaki fruits in the trees, kids racing against us with their bike and lots of warm smiles!

    We came to the Dandalo medieval bridge, set up our tent and joined a campfire with two Georgian and two Saudi Arabian guys, enjoying Arabic coffee, Caj, Tamr (dates from Saudi Arabia) and a pile of lamb meat - thanks for the invitation Nasser, hopefully you enjoyed the snow and the mountains!

    Climbing on, we came to Khulo where we were received by an old man on the road, hugging us, talking, screaming, laughing and following us into a café - apparently not even the locals understood what he was saying. But did this crazy man have a presentment?

    After that, a Belgian guy who plans to open a hostel in Khulo told us the road would become worse - and what happened not even 3km further? A big bang from Haukes rear wheel and not only the inner tube but also the tyre bursted. We fixed it and continued, as the road continued to become worse and steeper. Time to set up our tent! We decided to start early the next day to master the last 25km to the pass (1300m in height to go, >5% average climb) to have an extended lunch break in the sun with stunning views from the top. However, the road conditions became a nightmare and it took us more than six hours to get to the top, completely exhausted but super proud!

    Everything in Goderdzi seemed closed down because the hiking season is over and the skiing season would start in December, but luckily, a little hotel was open and we could get any room we wanted. When we entered the restaurant it still felt like the hotel was just open for us but an hour later, Julia, Pierre and Michelle from Russia and France came in and it started to fill up with Georgians drinking and singing their songs - what a great atmosphere on the summit, surrounded by clouds.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Climbing was worth it!
    Crossing with a screamBack on asphalt12We love it!

    Autumn scenery in Caucasus Mountains

    29. lokakuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    After a few "what the hell are we doing here?"-moments, we found cycling through this gorgeous landscape to be worth any effort, with all the colors, valleys, creeks and waterfalls, the snow, sun and clouds, the coldness and warmth. We definitely want to come back one day to hike to the more remote Adjarian villages hidden in the mountains.

    It's been easy to find great camp spots next to a river, especially the beautiful Kura river makes you thinking about pitching the tent every few kilometers.

    Back on asphalt after more than 50km on difficult terrain, we came to appreciate smooth roads like never before.

    Another anecdote: Silke needs to speed up buying groceries if she doesn't want Hauke to cycle slalom behind - in Borjomi (which is actually famous for its healthy waters), there was enough time to get invited for three shots of vodka and some sausages, Gagimardschos!    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    1Taking the motorway - a great decision
    Perfect hangover breakfastLet's get back on the road!Having a nice time :)Angry clouds over Mtskheta

    From Borjomi to Mtskheta

    31. lokakuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Looking forward to our reunion with Tural in Gori, we speeded up and chose to cycle on the motorway for the first time. Moreover, we're not yet in the mood again to go slalom on the bumpy side roads.

    In Gori, which is actually Stalin's birthplace, we met Tural in the lovely Nitsa Guesthouse, had a Georgian feast together and admired the daughter of the house playing the piano. What a great host family! We decided not to visit the Stalin museum as it is said to not review the history in a proper critic reflective way. However, at least the giant Stalin statue has been removed. Or as a French guest commented on the Stalin cult 'What an impression would a Hitler-statue in Germany make?'.

    Next day, the three of us hit the road towards Tbilisi and cycled together until we split up at Mtskheta as Tural wanted to meet another friend and we decided to pay a visit to Mtskheta. Contrary to Gori, we found this city to be in a better shape, but significantly more touristy. However, the cathedral is quite impressing and we could practice our Russian with a nice Georgian granny in our guesthouse.

    In the meantime we've left Tbilisi behind us and are having a lunch break in a roadside family kitchen. The border with Azerbaijan is getting closer. Pictures of Tbilisi will follow...    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    A suitable welcome
    1Sameba Cathedral - Church in a churchGeorgian natural Snickers - Churchkhela1We got it!

    Vibrant Tbilisi

    3. marraskuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Entering Tbilisi had been quite a challenge for us as the traffic became just crazy with 6 lanes in one direction used by 8 cars, and us on our bikes far-right. But, with great self-confidence, we made our way and enjoyed to pass any jammed car.

    Our first stop was the bicycle monument and we were wondering which sense it makes in Tbilisi because we didn't see any other cyclist and the only other people stopping by were tourists jumping off the sightseeing buses, taking pictures and jumping back on the bus. We also saw lots of new cycle racks nobody uses, but at least there is one bicycle lane in one of the streets. Beka later told us that Saakashvili, a former president of Georgia, is a cycling fan.

    During our time in the city, we realized that almost everybody wants to drive a car, although modern buses and cable cars are going everywhere - the air quality says hello. On the other hand, we found the city to be remarkably clean and groomed, with nice green parks and gardens - despite there is a lot of construction work going on at the moment.

    We stayed at Beka's place for 4 nights. He is a great host, a real sportsman and chances are not too bad that we meet up again in Iran, the destination for his next cycling trip.
    Speaking of Iran, after two visits to the Iranian embassy in Tbilisi, we finally got our visas from the helpful staff! In the meantime we used our days in Tbilisi very well to explore the city by foot, bus and cable car and found it definitely worth to discover the surrounding hills and as the weather was pretty good from there we obtained beautiful views over the city. Back in the valley, the old town distributed a special flair while we were tripping over broken pathways, inhaling the smell of bed eggs near the historical sulphur baths and watching the bustle.

    Cheers from Oguz in Azerbaijan! :-)
    Silke & Hauke    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    The idyll is back
    Evening moodGeorgian music and dancingCold sunny morning

    Following trails of tasty wine

    6. marraskuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Endless offerings of grapes, grape juice, churchkhela and wine along the road through colorful mountain slopes resolved all doubts that Kakheti is a true wine-growing region. So we ended up camping between vine stocks and enjoyed the silence a day ride away from metropolitan loudness.

    We found out that traveling on the main roads by bike increases the chances to run across people we met before, so did Julia & Pierre stop by when they saw us. As for the climb up to Signaghi we needed more time than expected we didn't make it to meet up again with these lovely guys.

    However, the ascent was absolutely worth it as Signaghi provides stunning views over the surrounding valley and the Great Caucasus. The town itself is very well restored and quite touristy with plenty of guesthouses and restaurants.

    Unsurprisingly, we found ourselves within a group of Russian tourists and tried our best to keep up with drinking homemade wine and dancing the Georgian style to Georgian live music.    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Exploring without bikes...
    Looking for ice cream1Typical Georgian sceneryNana's magic kitchen... Lagodekhi Natural Reserve

    Georgia, we'll miss you!

    8. marraskuuta 2017, Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Nana & Vazha made us a truly warm welcome in Lagodekhi with coffee, bread and cheese by their fireplace. They have a beautiful house, surrounded by a garden full of vine stocks, pomegranate and persimmon trees. Each year they pick three tons of grapes, from which Vazha turns one ton into vine for their personal use.

    Pretty quickly during our conversations, we decided to stay a day longer to explore the Lagodekhi National Reserve, Vazha had been working for 28 years as a director, by foot. Our 1-day-hike to the Black Grouse waterfall whetted our appetite for more hiking in this area.

    Nana prepared us super delicious Georgian meals and, not to forget, without Vazha's experience and help, our trip would have ended in Lagodekhi for the moment when the axis of Hauke's front wheel broke during a minor repair - true to the motto "Don't push too hard (Nach fest kommt ab)". According to Murphy's Law, we didn't carry a spare part, so Vazha and Hauke drove around the town to find something they could use - and luckily, in a small hobbyist workshop, they found a suitable shaft - a bit bent and rusty, but better than nothing! And after almost 500km, it still works :)

    Our last two evenings in Georgia were really cosy, sitting together by the fireplace, chatting (two other travelers from Poland arrived in the Guesthouse as well), drinking homemade wine and reading.

    For sure, one day we'll visit this beautiful country again solely because of the people's kindness, the beautiful mountains and the delicious food!    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    This is why we chose the northern route
    Yummi!Unveiling the mountains4

    Salam Azerbaijan!

    11. marraskuuta 2017, Azerbaijan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Questionable border procedures, three days of rain, muddy showers from passing trucks and the clouds hanging so low that we could only see a few mountain peaks - our start into a new country could have been better.

    However, people immediately took much care of us when we arrived totally soaked through and dirty in a motel or hotel. Maybe because we're looking so pitiful?

    Apropos pity, 'Piti' would not become our favorite Azerbaijan dish. Fatty lamb meat cooked with chick peas in a soup stock in a large mug simply wasn't ours. At least we learned how to eat it in two courses. And the dining room had a cosy fireplace where we could heat up.

    It can hardly be overseen that national pride and Heydar Aliev are omnipresent in Azerbaijan: Giant flagpoles, all sizes of flags, houses in national colors, oversized placards of and streets, parks, buildings and companies named after 'him'.

    Although the border control felt a bit like chicanery (from one gate to another, paperwork here and there, panniers off and on and a 'Good Luck' in the end), we still feel welcome in this country. We earn "Salam, salam!" from all sides, children with their mothers are waving, smiling and practicing their English with us or following us on their mountain bikes. Some people stop by and give us fruits, nuts and sweets and are curious. And others rip us off when we're buying pomegranates. Which was actually the first time on our trip, we believe :)    Lue lisää

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  • Silke und HaukeCycling EastMatkaaja
    Keep it simple
    It becomes arid2Here we are!Au revoir, buddies!

    A desertlike experience

    15. marraskuuta 2017, Azerbaijan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The hospitality continued by giving us more fruits and sweets and inviting us into a tea house. People even left no stones unturned to help us: A hotel owner himself runs off to buy a new battery, a computer expert is called to print a form (finally, Hauke ends up in his office and shows him how to print) and a reception lady puts perfume on Hauke at breakfast. Did he smell so bad? :)

    As the weather became pretty good again, we remembered ourselves why we had chosen the hilly, northern road through Azerbaijan. The landscape fascinated us while it changed from colorful forests to bleak but light green and suddenly we found ourselves within an arid environment which felt like a desert. To be correct, this area, in which the metropolis Baku is located as well, is a semidesert because it has slightly more vegetation than a desert.

    Not only the landscape, but also the road itself with its serpentines is remarkable. We don't remember how many times we climbed up to 900m and quickly dropped to 400m again.

    The acquaintance with the three speechless companions rounded out our first desertlike experience :)    Lue lisää

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