South Africa
Baviaanskloofberge

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    • Day 41

      Day 41 - Baviaanskloof

      April 25, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      As planned, up with the Sparrows we left the caravan in George and sprinted back up the N2, in the direction of PE.

      Our challenge of the day, and that it turned out to be, was tackling the Biviaanskloof Pass from Patensie, in a westerly direction to Uniondale and Willowmore.

      This section of the N2 in the Western Cape in comparison to anywhere else, is a world class highway. Not that I had ever paid much attention to a place like Patensie and even less 'Hanky', there they are!

      The initial entry to the Baviaanskloof, is patched full of highly productive citrus farms on both sides of the valley. As apposed to this, both Patensie and Hanky are small agricultural villages, whilst probably ably supporting the farmers, are themselves the usual rural dumps. We did however take note of teams of people picking up litter and bakkies riding the trash bags away, which was good to see. The villages themselves and apart from the few odd retailers, workshops and fuel stations, are pitiful. Droves of young people(adults) loitering and wasting the day away, but in the orchards there is much happening.

      Further into the valley and at the start of the 'Bavianspoort' which is the third 'UNESCO World Heritage Site' we have visited on our trip, massive rock formations rise and drop off, in places hundreds of meters vertically up and down. South and North of the Baviaanskloof River must be a Geologist's dream. Massive cliffs, overhangs and rifts. Cracks, crags, caves, coves and crevices and fallen natural structures everywhere. Rock formations naturally eroded millions of years ago have been exposed, creating beautiful and crazy monsters on every turn!

      All ‘UNESCO World Heritage Sites’ we have visited so far, being:
      * iSimangaliso Wetland Park (Greater St.Lucia Wetland Park)
      * Ukhahlamba - Drakensberg Park.
      * Baviaanskloof - Cape Floral Kingdom

      The road surfaces are obviously, mostly way less beautiful. Ruff terrain, graded in places, patched in others and suicidal potholes only manageable buy 4X4. Not really four wheel drive being essential, but road to undercarriage clearance, critical.

      Brain haemorrhaging and ‘neck-breaking’ stopping and accelerating, again led to premature Windhoek and Flying Fish consumption. Many steep inclines and declines (and twice coinciding with an oncoming car) are in places heart stopping. Land Rover and Ford spares litter the obstacles and sumps left bleeding!

      A few citing's of monkeys, baboons, Bushbuck and Kudu, was the only wild game we saw. What were old campsites and crumbled farmhouses and outbuilding are still hanging in there, but uninhabitable. Several B&B's along the way and also places to camp. We did make the call not to bring the caravan, only because it might just have been irresponsible, not knowing the conditions, nor really being able to believe the various Weather App's we use (Including "YR") In hindsight it probably could have been possible, but a serious gamble. Having now had firsthand knowledge and experience, probably the right call... no caravan!

      Before leaving and on a number of occassions, we had been told and encouraged to stay over in the 'kloof' (but without the caravan). Specifically we were advised about the 'Makkedaat Caves' on the western Uniondale side of the pass, 20 odd kilometers outside of the reserve. The pass road length was about 100km long, but took us nearly 6 hours, just in the pass! Three and a half hours to complete the first 15km’s😳 Certainly a day to remember!

      Crowned by the night over in 'Dassiebak' Cave. At R900.00 for the night plus R60 for two bags of wood, a highly profitable venture for Tannie Hendriette, who met us at her farmhouse to hand over 'no keys'!? “Dis mos 'n grot"! At the end of a seriously long day, mostly exhilarating and hard driving but very exciting and heart-stopping at times, what a pleasure to get to our very ‘rustic-architectured' cave dwelling. Inspired by more than two hundred year's of Bushmen residents (no doubt) along with the ingenuity of as many 'pallet-style' lodgings throughout the country to the entry of the 'Dassibak Cave', is all one actually needs.

      Designed and equipped with an outside porch, a completely enclosed and secured front facade of wooden planks. An extension to the cave roof of plastic and corrugated iron and plastic sheeting, the dwelling is large enough to swing a small cat. Equipped with very basic kitchen and braai utensils, a gas stove and oven, an inside wood fire facility along with two of each, cups, plates and eating utensils is all it takes. Bedding and Towels included too. Pretty much an open-plan arrangement inside, all except the open air/outside shower, basin and thankfully, toilet! All beautifully clean and thought through. There must be all of six or more cave-dwellings in the working farm valley, none in sight if each other.

      That was an awesome day in Africa and loved every moment!

      Love, Peace and Light
      M&K
      👍🏻💐
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