Spain
Espiel

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    • Day 24

      Cerro Muriano to Villaharta

      February 26 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      The day began cool and invigorating, but a strong headwind appeared, followed by rain and hail on and off all day, with brief periods of sunshine. Much of the path was very wet from overnight rain, and we made a couple of detours onto the road, which lengthened our day (only 21 km, officially). We were constantly putting rain gear on and off as lovely warm sunshine would appear for brief periods.

      We stopped for a bite in El Vacar, where we were aiming for the panderia but ended up in the first bar, which had really bad food and questionable hygiene. Just a bit further down the road was the lovely panderia. All of the peregrinos made the same mistake. I would like to put a big sign there to warn future peregrinos, or have the warning added to the pilgrim guide.

      We are now settled in the pleasant modern albergue in Villaharta with our own room for 10 euros each. There is a tienda in town and a kitchen here, plus a bar nearby.

      G: vandaag best een mooie wandeling, maar de vele regen in de nacht maakte de paden soms... Lastig. Het weer was erg variabel, de voorspelling was droog en zonnig maar we kregen vier keer hagel en mijn broek is zes keer nat geregend maar net weer opgedroogd voor we aankwamen. En dat is het lekkerst. We slapen in de gemeentelijke herberg vandaag, daarvoor moesten we ons voor 14.00 uur aanmelden want daarna is het gemeentehuis dicht.
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    • Day 25

      Villaharta to Mina Guillermin

      February 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      D: Today’s walk was mostly lovely, largely through a natural area. It was cool with light wind, but also sunny and no rain. The last part was an uneven uphill rocky path.

      We were glad to stop at the Mina Albergue at the 17km point, rather than completing the 35 km stretch in one go. After being greeted and escorted by two very sweet German Sheppard dogs we sat outside in the warm sun, drinking beer made available in the fridge. It’s a quirky and intriguing Albergue. Does anyone live here? Some indications yes and some no. Very peaceful and isolated. Horses in addition to the dogs. The horses roam freely but the dogs ensure that they stay in the horse pasture area. Cleaning could be better, but we adapt. The owner will arrive soon to make our dinner as there are no services in the area. The owner appears to be kind and accommodating, including veg food for me. Request for future guests: please bring a ball for the bigger dog, who is making do carrying a rock in its mouth.

      G: een dag met meer zon en dus meer foto’s. De wind was koud, niet wandelen in mijn hempie zoals in de eerste week. Veel gele bloemen in het gras, mooie paden, op het eind liepen we naar een oude mijn waar we zouden overnachten. We werden opgewacht door twee allervriendelijkste herdershonden. Ongelooflijk hoe ze ons accepteerden hoewel ze ons nooit hadden gezien en de eigenaar niet eens thuis was, die komt vanavond pas. Dus we liepen zo hun territorium in, maar geen probleem, goed opgevoed dus. Dat zien we wel eens anders.
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    • Day 23

      Cerro Muriano to Villaharta 22km

      May 23 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      We had a good night's sleep, the room was very comfortable. We woke up to an overcast sky, and there was a cold wind blowing when we set off, but we weren't complaining, it was a nice change from the heat of the past few days.

      The guidebook described this stage as 'unremarkable', in other words, dull and boring, and it was not wrong. The path was a mixture of tarmac sections and dirt tracks, we followed a cycle path then what probably used to be the main road a long time ago, and then through some woodland. There was not much to photograph.

      I had decided that I needed to start wearing my new hiking shoes, even though I would probably end up with blisters, the old ones were killing my feet, and crucially gave me no grip on the path.

      The final section was up a very steep hell and we were glad to reach the top. I could feel blisters on both feet, so I was glad to get to what turned out to be a very nice albergue. As soon as we arrived, we got on with the tasks of showering, sorting our clothes etc, trying to find a shop and a place to eat. I had 4 blisters that would make tomorrow's walk a more painful experience, all the more so because we were expecting the terrain to be quite difficult, with ascents of 840m and descents of 800m. We tried not to worry about it, tomorrow is tomorrow. I learned on my previous camino not to get anxious about the next day and what might or might not happen, and I doubted that tomorrow would be any worse than what we had already done.
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    • Day 20

      40 km again!

      April 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Hi from the little village of Villaharta. I had two choices for today—Cerro Muriano at 19 km or Villaharta at 40 ( my GPS read 40.7 but that’s because I got lost when trying to find Córdoba’s Roman bridge.)

      I left early since it was going to be a long day of walking. The exit from Córdoba, just like the entrance, avoided the ugly parts and once over the bridge I was out in countryside. Near a lot of highways but still, on dirt and out of traffic.

      The walk had some very nice parts— an ascent through rocky hills with scrub oaks and lots of wildflowers, and lots of off-road paths through woods. It was interesting to walk by an army base that must have been 2-3 km long —tons of tanks, trucks, barracks, and who knows what else.

      So here I am in the tiny village of Villaharta, where the very kind owners of the local bar have offered to take in pilgrims. Since I walked two stages, I have finally found some others!! The little place is bursting at the seams. Luckily I called and got the last bed— in a corner of their garage!

      Dinner beckons—as another bit of evidence of the owners’ kindness, they are opening the kitchen at 5:30 pm!
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