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    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
      1
      Day 45

      Day 32: Cerro Muriano to Villaharta

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Day 32, Cerro Muriano to Villaharta, 21.6km.
      A rainy stage, but a pleasant one nonetheless. Leaving Cerro Muriano, we pass the military base of the Regimiento de Infantería Mecanizada "Córdoba" Número 10. Photos not permitted.
      This stage follows almost entirely the N-432, or its alternative, the N-432A. The good thing is that it's on paths or tracks, which are a little wet today, or on old stretches of the road. We passed under the carretera, followed the tracks of the disused railway line.
      We took a break at El Vacar, where the place was teeming with soldiers on manoeuvres. I wanted to take a photo of the road sign, but a group of them photobombed my photo.
      There isn't much of a climb on this stage, but before reaching Villaharta, there was a nice descent. Juan José from the Equis bar had warned us that there are no restaurants in the centre of Villaharta. There is a bar, but it's closed today. So 3.5km before arriving, we ate our almuerzo at the Santa Elisa restaurant. Interesting concept: if you eat à la carte, you're served in the restaurant with a pretty tablecloth on the table, if you want the menu del día, it's in the comedor, and it's self-service for the dishes, no table service.
      The sun did come out this afternoon, though, and we had a magnificent sunset.      Read more

    • Camino Mozarabe
      111
      Day 24

      Cerro Muriano to Villaharta

      February 26 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      The day began cool and invigorating, but a strong headwind appeared, followed by rain and hail on and off all day, with brief periods of sunshine. Much of the path was very wet from overnight rain, and we made a couple of detours onto the road, which lengthened our day (only 21 km, officially). We were constantly putting rain gear on and off as lovely warm sunshine would appear for brief periods.

      We stopped for a bite in El Vacar, where we were aiming for the panderia but ended up in the first bar, which had really bad food and questionable hygiene. Just a bit further down the road was the lovely panderia. All of the peregrinos made the same mistake. I would like to put a big sign there to warn future peregrinos, or have the warning added to the pilgrim guide.

      We are now settled in the pleasant modern albergue in Villaharta with our own room for 10 euros each. There is a tienda in town and a kitchen here, plus a bar nearby.

      G: vandaag best een mooie wandeling, maar de vele regen in de nacht maakte de paden soms... Lastig. Het weer was erg variabel, de voorspelling was droog en zonnig maar we kregen vier keer hagel en mijn broek is zes keer nat geregend maar net weer opgedroogd voor we aankwamen. En dat is het lekkerst. We slapen in de gemeentelijke herberg vandaag, daarvoor moesten we ons voor 14.00 uur aanmelden want daarna is het gemeentehuis dicht.      Read more

    • Camino Mozarabe
      52
      Day 25

      Villaharta to Mina Guillermin

      February 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      D: Today’s walk was mostly lovely, largely through a natural area. It was cool with light wind, but also sunny and no rain. The last part was an uneven uphill rocky path.

      We were glad to stop at the Mina Albergue at the 17km point, rather than completing the 35 km stretch in one go. After being greeted and escorted by two very sweet German Sheppard dogs we sat outside in the warm sun, drinking beer made available in the fridge. It’s a quirky and intriguing Albergue. Does anyone live here? Some indications yes and some no. Very peaceful and isolated. Horses in addition to the dogs. The horses roam freely but the dogs ensure that they stay in the horse pasture area. Cleaning could be better, but we adapt. The owner will arrive soon to make our dinner as there are no services in the area. The owner appears to be kind and accommodating, including veg food for me. Request for future guests: please bring a ball for the bigger dog, who is making do carrying a rock in its mouth.

      G: een dag met meer zon en dus meer foto’s. De wind was koud, niet wandelen in mijn hempie zoals in de eerste week. Veel gele bloemen in het gras, mooie paden, op het eind liepen we naar een oude mijn waar we zouden overnachten. We werden opgewacht door twee allervriendelijkste herdershonden. Ongelooflijk hoe ze ons accepteerden hoewel ze ons nooit hadden gezien en de eigenaar niet eens thuis was, die komt vanavond pas. Dus we liepen zo hun territorium in, maar geen probleem, goed opgevoed dus. Dat zien we wel eens anders.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
      31
      Day 46

      Day 33: Villaharta to Mina Guillermin

      June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day 33, Villaharta to Mina Guillermin, 16.5km.
      It rained for most of the day, which was good for the countryside around us.
      Leaving Villaharta, we followed the road towards Pozoblanco, then after 2.5km the wet bitumen gave way to wet dirt roads.
      When we came to a fork in the road, the arrows told us to take a path that strangely enough, led us to a makeshift gate, which made us doubt. We carried on anyway, and we were happy to do so. The path, which follows a via pecuaria, even if in places it looked like a rivulet, was magnificent!
      It took us to the ford over the Río Guadalbarbo. The ford was made so that we could cross it even if the water covered the path.
      Our beautiful path led us to an unsealed road. We had to be careful here, as it was a bit slippery. Not slippery for the few ewes that seemed to have escaped from a nearby pen.
      Another fork in the road, and we were on the last three kilometres to our destination. There was no let-up in the rain, and the paths were like streams. A mojón caught in the current didn't budge.
      We finally arrived, soaking wet, at the accommodation offered by Rosa at the Mina Guillermin. In 2021, a forest fire destroyed everything except the house. Rosa and her partner Javier are working to rebuild everything. They are building two wooden cottages that will serve as albergues for pilgrims. For today, they are making one of their rooms available to us, and preparing meals for us. I don't know of any other accommodation for pilgrims where you can dry your clothes and warm up in front of a nice fire!      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018
      Day 20

      40 km again!

      April 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Hi from the little village of Villaharta. I had two choices for today—Cerro Muriano at 19 km or Villaharta at 40 ( my GPS read 40.7 but that’s because I got lost when trying to find Córdoba’s Roman bridge.)

      I left early since it was going to be a long day of walking. The exit from Córdoba, just like the entrance, avoided the ugly parts and once over the bridge I was out in countryside. Near a lot of highways but still, on dirt and out of traffic.

      The walk had some very nice parts— an ascent through rocky hills with scrub oaks and lots of wildflowers, and lots of off-road paths through woods. It was interesting to walk by an army base that must have been 2-3 km long —tons of tanks, trucks, barracks, and who knows what else.

      So here I am in the tiny village of Villaharta, where the very kind owners of the local bar have offered to take in pilgrims. Since I walked two stages, I have finally found some others!! The little place is bursting at the seams. Luckily I called and got the last bed— in a corner of their garage!

      Dinner beckons—as another bit of evidence of the owners’ kindness, they are opening the kitchen at 5:30 pm!      Read more

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