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- May 12, 2023, 5:23 PM
- 🌬 10 °C
- Altitude: 858 m
- SpainCastille and LeónBurgosGamonalFélix Rodríguez de la Fuente Park42°20’48” N 3°40’21” W
Belgrado to San Juan de Ortega
May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 10 °C
Today as I climbed the Montes de Ola and later Alto de Valbueno at 3800 feet in the rain, cold, wind with my feet hurting (still!), I am wondering what possesses a person to voluntarily take on such an adventure?
In fact, as I passed the hotel that I am currently staying, the Hotel San Anton Abad, I seriously contemplated two things: one skip the mountain climb or climb to the top and then go back down to my hotel. I did neither because several things were on my mind. First, I had a taxi driver meeting me in San Juan to return me back to this hotel (transferring from hotel to hotel or town to town is very common), and secondly, I don't think I could have made the steep descent, and it seemed easier to walk through the forest another 8 km than walk back down!
Wearing everything that I have that is warm and waterproof, today I walked 24.5 km and eventually arrived at this hotel which in 1377 was the Hospital de Peregrinos San Anton Abad. In 2009 a local walking the Camino returned to restore the hospital to a hotel that now continues to serve the pilgrims.
Today's walk was much like yesterday with a few more views, and for more than 1/2 the walk we were away from the major highway. The sun is coming out now, but most of the day cloud and rain and cool temperatures of only 8 degrees made the trail quieter today. I saw many people waiting for the bus this morning!
Accommodation is becoming increasingly difficult as the camino travels west, and so many pilgrims today had either a much shorter walk or a much longer walk, between 12 and 32 km in order to find accommodation. Today, I walked for some time in the mountains with ladies from Australia whom I have seen here and there, but usually I can't even consider keeping up, but later today, they probably slowed down, and I am beginning to find my rhythm. Learning to use my poles effectively, and I think either my feet are improving or I am becoming numb to the pain. I think it is the latter. In the last few km it was nice to have some company to ease the challenges of the last few km. Since we are at the same hotel, we will also have dinner together. Most nights even as a solo traveler, I rarely eat alone. The Camino is friendly.
We all had a good laugh that since we are in what was once a hospital, how much we could use a bit of nursing. The altitude here does not bother me, but for some the altitude is problematic. One thing for sure, I know will take some adjustment back to Calgary...when was the last time you took a 5 euro out of your wallet, and bought two glasses of red wine and got change! Tonight at the pilgrims supper, I had a salad ( normally I have pasta lol), fish in tomato sauce ( my go to thing), and a caramel flan, and as much wine and water that you can drink. All for 18 euros... Most nights, I find myself at a pilgrim dinner or a hotel serving a pilgrim dinner. For between 14 to 18 euros, you get a starter ( pasta or salad or soup or broccoli), and then a meal so fish, pork, chicken. And then a simple desert. And wine...and more wine...Read more
Traveler It seems like you are finding a deep strength within yourself. Here is a little encouragement from the Passion Translation: “My fellow believers, when it seems as though you are facing nothing but difficulties, see it as an invaluable opportunity to experience the greatest joy that you can! For you know that when your faith is tested it stirs up in you the power of endurance. And then as your endurance grows even stronger, it will release perfection into every part of your being until there is nothing missing and nothing lacking.” James (Jacob) 1:2-4 TPT
Traveler Thank you...we were laughing at dinner tonight how so many of us are expecting some sort of insight to rain down on us...but we are still waiting...not sure what that means...but we wait and walk!
Traveler Also on this note of endurance...so as a person follows the trail, you meet on and off again the same people here and there...but now I have lost track of three people that I had met earlier on in the trail...generally people might go missing from the trail because they stopped early, or had a different sleeping arrangement, or they had a taxi to and from somewhere, but generally I find that we connect at some point, and now I am feeling that three people I connected with earlier have gone off the radar. As we become friendlier on the trail we exchange information, and know who is where and when. The Camino is definitely very hard, not only physically, but also managing the unexpected day in and day out...for some it is where to sleep, but there is also the food issue...where to eat, when to eat...the cold day today is unexpected...the unpredictability of our bodies...what will ache or not ache today.
Traveler Beware of the platitudes, but… “The Journey IS the Destination.” Honestly, the fact that you are there and hiking at all is hugely inspirational to everyone who knows you, and I would guess mostly so to children and grandchildren. Treasuring each moment is a good place to build memories. Feel the pain, let it wash over you and be joyful when your body is not hurting. 😜 You got this!