Spain
Los Arroyos

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    • Day 61

      Segura de la Sierra to Moralejos

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

      The aldea of Moralejos is tiny. I forgot to ask Beatriz, the owner of the house we are staying in, what the actual population is, but we’ve seen only two people since we arrived. Beatriz lives upstairs and we have the downstairs of a large stone house that looks delightfully old and sturdy. We are staying here three days so we can explore the remains of the original Segura settlement in the cliffs above us. Unlike Puente Honda, La Hueta, and Linarejos, there is no central square or gathering place here, but we did see the remains of an era on the way in.

      We carried in three days worth of food, but we could have left most of it behind because Beatriz has left us eggs from her chickens, tomatoes, potatoes, and mandarins, as well as an array of bakery delights.

      The walk to get here was all along small paved roads. We wanted traffic to see us well ahead of time, so we carefully arranged our orange jackets in the mesh pockets of our packs with the arms dangling down to wave in the breeze. But it turned out to be totally unnecessary; only four cars passed us the entire morning. I’d say this part of the Sierra de Segura is not heavily traveled!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/segura-de…
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    • Day 62

      Moralejos: Los Riscos

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      The cliffs and crags (riscos) above Moralejos are striking. They are reachable by a detour off the GR 247, and contain ruins dating from Roman times. As we climbed up to them today, I kept a running total in my head of how many spots were precarious enough on the way up that I needed Ned’s help to get across them, knowing that they would seem even more difficult on the way down. When I got up to four, I prudently decided that was my limit. Ned went another quarter of a kilometer with another 100 meters of altitude gain (yup, it was steep!) and was able to clearly see the birds of prey that nest here (los buitres) soaring overhead. By continuing on the GR, we were able to find a very comfortable way down with some great views of Yelmo and no precipitous drop-offs.

      Talking with Beatriz this afternoon, it turns out she is the sole year-round resident of Moralejos! The shepherd we saw yesterday comes just for the day; he lives elsewhere. So Moralejos joins La Hueta and Linarejos as villages we have been to on this trip that have a population of one.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/moralejos…
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    • Day 63

      Moralejos: Río Trujala

      May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      We had a nice Wikiloc track picked out that would take us on a loop walk up the Río Trujala and back by a forestry track today, but shortly after we left Moralejos, it became very overgrown. By the time we crossed the river (it’s pretty narrow, but we should be glad it’s running at all!), we realized it was useless to try to continue. We had noticed some electrical towers nearby and thought if we followed them, it might make a nice second choice. What luck! They led us up high above the river through glades full of flowers, and then to a walker’s equivalent of a superhighway: a wide, smooth forest track, complete with some of the original kilometer markers. Eventually this joined the GR 247 stage that we are going to walk tomorrow when we move on to Hotel Río Madera. I was especially glad to get a preview of that stage today, even in the opposite direction, since I have been worrying that it might be too precarious for me. My fears were totally unnecessary. It is steep, but it’s not at the edge of a cliff, and there is nothing precarious about it.

      Just before getting back to Moralejos, we had a first on this trip: meeting other walkers with overnight packs! A friendly Dutch couple who are doing the same thing we are - staying several nights in a village and making loop walks before moving on - stopped and chatted with us about the area.

      This afternoon we toured all of Beatriz’ buildings here. She has done a lot of work to make them comfortable. We ended up with a taste test comparing gazpacho and salmorejo. Thanks, Beatriz!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/moralejos…
      Read more

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