Orcera

Puente Honda: population, four. La Hueta: population, one. Linarejos: population, one. Three villages all under the watchful eye of the peak of Peñalta; all thriving aldeas for hundreds of years; all now with year-round populations approaching zero.

When we saw Linarejos from afar the day we walked from La Hueta to Orcera, we knew we had to find a way to see it up close. Its mountainside perch combined with its striking terracing were irresistible.

Our route today followed the Río Orcera up into the heavily forested ridges, with most of the river’s water diverted into acequias. We came to two junctions with the GR 247, and then the aldea itself with its wonderful views, its clean, neat streets, and its terraced orchards. At first we thought it was deserted, but the lone resident came out and chatted with us. He said he loves living alone there because it is so peaceful. On summer weekends, as many as 18 people come to stay in their second homes, but during the week he and his two dogs have the place to themselves. He likes winter even better than summer because then nobody comes on weekends. Winter used to bring up to a meter of snow to Linarejos, but now there is none. He knows well the 86 year old woman who is the only full-time resident of La Hueta, and says she walks all the way to Orcera to get her groceries (!) and gets a ride home from the police.

The walk up to the aldea passes Orcera’s public recreation site with a huge swimming pool and various sports areas, all quiet on the way up, but filled with enthusiastic pickle ball players and workmen sanding and staining picnic tables on the way back.

Today’s Wikiloc track:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/orcera-li…Read more