Hiszpania
Plaza Coso Viejo

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    • Dzień 35

      The Fortress on the Hill

      6 lutego, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Today, we were like kids exploring an old castle without supervision.

      The Alcazaba, fortress, is on a hill and just a 10 - 15 minute walk way from our apartment. We can see it from our balcony. We waited until today to visit it as it has free entry on Tuesday afternoons.

      By the way, a Alcazaba or Alcazar is a castle for the leaders in a small city. It included a mosque and houses for the soldiers and workers of the palace and walls to protect the leaders against external attacks and against local revolts.

      We walked up the hill, always up, and found the church beside the castle. It isn’t actually a functioning church any more. Many of its art pieces were moved to another church in 1692. It’s only used for lectures and concerts now. But inside there were a few interesting objects. One was a very large stone ball for a trebuchet, a giant slingshot, that was a weapon used in medieval times. Several of these balls were found in the area.

      Another object was a huge parade float a Tarasca, of a woman on a dragon with 7 heads!
      This particular object has seven heads, echoing the seven deadly sins and the dragon from the Apocalypse. The woman represents faith and the triumph of Christ over sin.

      From the church, we used Google maps to try to find the entrance to the castle but along with several other people, we ended up doing a big circle around the castle and not finding it. The walk was great but the signage was not. Eventually a local pointed the way and we had to retrace our steps.

      Once we found our way in, we were on our own - no guide and little signage. We just explored and it was fun. There were several areas where we had to use our imaginations to figure what the area was used for it was all good. The dungeon was a deep, dark hole in the ground and the well had the typical curved roof and a fountain.

      The highlight for us was to climb up to the top of the big clock/bell tower. It houses the original clock and bell. The pendulum was a huge rock. A little daunting but with great views over the city. We just started going down when the bell started ringing. That was a shocker! Thank heavens we weren’t standing next to it!

      We learned a new word - barbican - which is a 2nd defensive wall on the outside of the castle.

      Antequera has a very long history. It’s name comes from the Roman period: “Antikaria” which means “ancient town”. Apart from a few historical records and some inscriptions there was no evidence of a Roman Anticaria until 1988, when excavations at the foot of the hill unearthed public baths which are dated from the 3rd century AD. The area they found was small, but it had all the facilities of a typical Roman bath, including three pools (hot, tepid and cold), and a place for exercising. Pieces of the mosaic tiles for floors are in the museum.

      The main access to the fortress is through a gate they call the Arch of the Giants. It was built in the mid-16th century. The wall is more than 2 metres thick and has Latin inscriptions relating to both Anticaria itself and other Roman cities that existed in its vicinity. There are also four large tombstones embedded in it.

      After a couple of hours of exploring and fantasizing,, we were ready for a cold beer and something to eat. We stopped at a little restaurant called LouLus and had a wonderful late lunch. Seafood brioche, bbq ribs and fries and ice cream. We’ll probably go back!

      P.S. Pretty soon I am going to need a break from all that walking up and down stairs and hills!
      .
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    • Dzień 43

      Our Last Day in Antequera

      14 lutego, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Our last day in Antequera was Valentine’s Day. We walked around town checking out the Valentine’s decorations but there weren’t many. Flower shops, restaurants and bakeries seemed to be the most interested in advertising this holiday.

      The first restaurant that we ate in when we arrived in the city was called LouLu’s. We thought it would be nice to end our time at the same restaurant that we started in but this time for a late Valentine lunch. Good idea. We love their tapas and the atmosphere in this tiny restaurant is great. No matter how busy it is, the servers take excellent care of you.

      Before we leave, I wanted to write a little about some of the city’s famous desserts and a few other things we’ve noticed.

      Bienmesabe (meaning "tastes good to me") is a sponge-based pudding with almonds and cinnamon. Angelorum is a concoction of sponge, meringue and egg yolk. The little bakery/breakfast restaurant down the street has several flavours of these tempting goodies. By the way, their cake slices are to die for. Mmmn.

      Mantecados appeared in the 16th century, as a consequence of an excess of wheat and lard. It is thought that the first recipe was made in Antequera. They are usually eaten at Christmas time and taste like shortbread. Then there are Polvorones, long oval cookies made with less butter, more flour and with almonds.

      Other local specialities include Porra Antequerana, a cold dip that's like a thicker version of gazpacho, marinated partridge, rabbit, and spinach-stuffed boquerones (anchovies). We didn’t get around to tasting any of these though.

      We wondered what will happen to all the streets with sour orange trees once the oranges start falling. There is a law in Spain stating that people can’t pick the city oranges. So at the appropriate time, workers prune the trees, collect the oranges and then marmalade is made from them.

      It is forbidden to cut down an oak tree in Spain without a permit. There are 2 varieties - an acorn producing oak and the cork oak.

      Every street corner has a vendor selling lottery tickets. People seem to be hooked on winning money, just like in Ontario. But in Spain, you see all the vendors and people buying tickets.

      So we are leaving this little gem of a city tomorrow morning. We’ll wave goodbye to the Indian head mountain overlooking the city and head to Jerez de La Frontera, north of Gibraltar.

      First we have to return our Wiber rental car at the Malaga airport (35 minute drive away). Then pick up a small car with Europcar just to take us to Jerez. Sounds odd, but even though Wiber has been good, it won’t let us return a car to a different location. We don’t plan on renting another car while in Spain and the buses and trains take forever to get to Jerez so we went with another company to rent a Fiat for a day.
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    • Dzień 44–50

      Jerez de la Frontera

      15 lutego, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Now on to Jerez, the home of Sherry, Andalusian horses, Flamenco (Lola Flores), Churros and Tabancos (quirky old taverns where people here go to buy the Sherry they use at home and to have a drink with friends and family). Jerez is a happening little city!

      Our trip to Jerez took some planning. We had to return the rental car in Malaga’s airport (not far away), pay for a little scrape (caused by a flower pot and no insurance!), and pick up another rental car for the one way trip to Jerez that takes about 2 1/2 hours. Buses and trains took at least 5 hours and stopped in Seville. Cost was comparable.

      We originally wanted to take the highway to Ronda to see the huge gorge there but decided to take the coastal route by the Rock of Gibraltar. Actually it stressed us out to drive on the coastal route as there was so much traffic and tourists. It is a hot spot for foreigners. Once we passed Gibraltar all was good, except for all the toll roads! We ended up paying three times.

      Anyways, we ended up safely in Jerez and easily found our apartment, Sherryflat Atipika, in the historic centre. It originally was a palace that has since been subdivided into modern apartments. I read an interesting fact that there are about 100 abandoned palaces in Jerez. Some of the lucky palaces have been bought and have been transformed into restaurants, apartments, hotels or businesses. The architecture from long ago days on the main streets is beautiful.

      We tried to return the rental car earlier to a local hotel that’s under construction, but didn’t have luck. It’s a long story. We returned it the next morning, as booked.

      Then off to do some food shopping. We are here for 6 days. The grocery store and market are a 5 minute walk away on interesting pedestrian streets.

      Our apartment is just perfect for us. It has one good-sized bedroom, is modern and has everything that we need for a 6 day stay - a comfy bed, big windows that let in the sun, fast wifi, smart TV, great bathroom, hot water, a washing machine, in a great location, quiet and a very responsive owner. 10/10 for us!

      It started raining when we went to explore the city so we stopped in a local bar and ate tapas and drank beer until it stopped. Nice way to start our time in Jerez.

      There are a lot of trees and plazas here, quite enjoyable, giving an air of calmness.

      We have a good feeling about what’s to come during our week in Jerez.

      P.s. It seems that everyone here loves their cute little dogs, especially Dachshunds, Maltese, Chihuahuas and small terriers. Everywhere you look, you always see a little dog on a leash going for a walk.
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    • Dzień 43

      Antequera

      27 lipca 2021, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Voor vandaag hadden we een lange rit voor de boeg. We hadden de tijd van onze klok in de slaapkamer nog niet aangepast aan de Spaanse tijd dus toen we vanmorgen om half 8 wakker werden dachten we nog heerlijk vroeg te zijn totdat ik op mijn telefoon zag dat het niet half 8 maar half 9 was.

      We reden kilometers door uitgestrekte vlaktes en we zagen bijna alleen maar olijfbomen. Grote en kleine, net gekweekte, zo ver als onze ogen konden kijken.

      Hoe dichter we bij Sevilla kwamen hoe drukker het werd. 1 Keer reden we verkeerd maar gelukkig had onze navigatie ons weer snel op de juiste weg.
      We rijden verder en we zien dat de thermometer naar 37 gr. is gestegen.We werden loom van de warmte en ik vond het wel genoeg kilometers voor vandaag. We zagen op de app een CP in Antequera in het centrum. Dat is misschien wel leuk en kunnen we daar ook even rondneuzen.
      Frits vind nog wat leuke spulletjes en verdwijnt in een paskamer.
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