Poio

I was up and away by 08:30 expecting a quiet walk. As always navigating the Camino out of a city can be tricky. There's lots of competing signs and cars, buses, vans and people to obscure the arrows. So I was pleased when an hombre with a loaf under his arm told me that the route was "Todo arriba". He wasn't wrong either Almost from the word go the way went up and up. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised as the start was at sea level.

Initially it was just your average drag. I nipped into a church to catch my breath. I was a bit saddened by the interior. Is this the best we can manage these days?

Back outside and the weather was already starting to warm up. The humidity was high as well. Brierley had warned me that outside of Vigo water would be scarce, but I still drank away. Too late to start once the thirst has gripped you.

Whilst negotiating some ambitious roadworks I'd failed to spot a yellow arrow hiding up a ginnel. Yet again an hombre shouted me back onto the path. Up it reared. Eddie the Eagle could have used it as a training slope. There were times when it was harder to stop for a rest than to carry on walking. Lycra clad men and women ground to a halt and fell to the floor, pedal clips being a double edged sword. Head down, count to a hundred. Repeat.

There was a slight break in the relentless skyward flight as the N-922 was crossed. To my right I spotted a large building full of fire engines. An idea formed. Sure enough, as in Portugal, so in Spain. The Bomberos are amigos of the pilgrims. A mahoosive new appliance was being inspected but there was still time to replenish my water. Stout lads one and all.

Back up the road and the aasult began again. Wearisome. Could the path not at least weave around a little? As with all things earthly though, at last the tribulation passed and the way began to contour round the forest. The effort was rewarded with view back to Vigo and Las Islas Cies.

The forest path was pleasant underfoot as well as offering the shade that had been missing on the Camino Ingles. I started to relax a little. Maybe I was going to manage this after all. For myself, all Camino's are started with some anxiety. Would I get to the start line? Had I got enough training miles in my legs? Had I packed too much, or too little? Then you start and once you get into your stride there can be a sense of anti climax. My mood dipped slightly.

Just at that point an enexpected cantina was found. A cafe con lech with a full fat coke blasted me with caffeine and sugar and the mood surged.

As I rejoined the path I was surrounded by 4 border collies. Their owner was Francisco, known to his friends as Fran. He was talking to one of the dogs in English. He'd been over to Ireland to buy him as, in his opinion , there are no finer sheepdogs than those from Ireland. He spoke good English and had travelled in England and Scotland with his work. Over the next hour we had a engaging conversation about the history of Vigo and its neighbouring towns.

Then there we were. The forest path had ended, the descent in Redondela was about to begin and I'd got my mojo back.

Arriving at the church of San Martino de Ventosela I chanced to get in just as the parish priest was leaving, having said Mass there earlier that morning. There was time for a stamp though. Off course I could take a picture. Finally, yes I could have his blessing.

The trek into Redondela was easy enough and the Don Vinarious cafe at the start of town was packed.
Have I mentioned that already? Not since the last 100km of the Frances back in 2015 have I seen as many people on the Camino! No wonder accommodation had proved hard to find.

After being fed it was a short walk out to the Catapeixe holiday homes. A newly refurbished building in a small fishing village. There was a great welcome from the owner and news that we could be back on the Camino the following morning by wandering down a few back streets. Magic.

Executive Summary? Vigo is a fantastic place. Welcoming but not too commercial. Once I was walking, the way as usual provided all the timely support I needed. Splendid startRead more