Spanien
Segura de la Sierra

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    • Dag 39

      Casa Berrea: Embalse de Aguascebas

      17. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      If you are looking for a heavenly place to stay in the mountains of Spain, Casa Rural Senda de la Berrea is the spot to pick! We are surrounded by rocky peaks, trails leave right from our door, and there is no one else for miles. Our walk straight out the door of the casa this afternoon took us to a magnificent waterfall, Cascada de Chorrogil, and then around the Embalse de Aguascebas which looks quite full. We could enjoy the falls and the turquoise water of the reservoir in complete peace because we didn’t see another person during the entire loop.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/aguaceba…
      If, like me, you think a loop around a reservoir sounds like a nice flat walk, think again…
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    • Dag 73

      La Platera: La Laguna

      21. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      We woke up this morning to drops of rain on the plants in the arbor, small puddles on the flagstones, and thick fog hiding the surrounding hills, but now, after a day of sunshine, everything is dried up again.

      Earlier this week, while combing through maps and tracks along the southern shore of the sprawling Embalse del Tranco that lies just below us, I kept finding references to a small lagoon. Pedro also mentioned this yesterday, saying that it was a source of salt, and that nearby was a particularly beautiful era whose floor was made with stones of various colors. This all sounded very intriguing, so we set out to explore that area this morning as soon as the fog lifted. When we reached the next aldea, El Carrascal, a dog followed us out of the village. We tried our hardest to get him to turn around and go home, but he insisted on staying with us throughout the entire day. It’s a good thing we were making a loop trip, or he would have ended up very far from home and very thirsty. The road along the edge of the embalse gave us colorful views, not only of the water, but also of forest glades followed by old olive groves with trees with very thick trunks. We found the lagoon, but were so distracted by our worries about the dog that we forgot to look for the era with the colored stones. On the way home, we decided to take a route for which we had no GPX track, but the trail showed clearly on the IGN map of Spain. It’s always a bit worrisome not to have a track to follow, but after a few wrong turns, we made it to an overlook with tremendous views of the entire area and felt quite happy that our adventure had turned out so well. In addition, our canine friend is now back in his home village. Whew!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dag 72

      Hornos to La Platera

      20. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We have our very own era to admire every time we step out our front door!

      Choosing the tiny aldea of La Platera for our last four days of walking turned out to be a very lucky decision. When Pedro, the owner, opened the door to our casa rural, we noticed right away that the table in the living room was a trillo, a sled-shaped board with pieces of blade-shaped rocks embedded in rows to thresh the wheat. Pedro beckoned to us to follow him, and not ten steps from our front door, he gestured with his arm - and there was an era where the threshing took place. Pedro could tell we were really interested in the history of the place, so he stayed for an hour and a half, telling us that there were a “montón” of people living here when he met his wife here 36 years ago. Now there are two year-round residents left. “Una pena,” he said several times.
      He showed us how the threshing took place with a donkey pulling the trillo around and around over the wheat spread on the era. The era was located in a breezy spot so that after the threshing, if basketfuls of wheat were thrown in the air, the wind would blow away the chaff, allowing the heavier grains of wheat to fall to the ground. The families of the aldea were self-sufficient, he said, growing or raising all their own food. Now, all the young people want to live elsewhere and have paying jobs to buy their food. In an opinion we haven’t heard before, he said the formation of the park accelerated this trend because even if a young person wants to try to make a living here now, it is very difficult to get permission for land use from the park authorities.

      Our walk today took us past the neighboring aldea of Carrascal and by scattered cortijos. We saw olive tree after olive tree with no budding olives and with dying yellow leaves that we assume are showing the effects of heat and drought.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dag 75

      La Platera: Hornos el Viejo

      23. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

      Today was the first day in 75 days of walking in Andalucia that we had to change course to step around a puddle! It rained all night long and well into the morning, by far the longest-lasting rain we’ve had. Out on our walk, we met two ladies in the neighboring village of Hornos el Viejo who, when we mentioned “mucha lluvia anoche”, went to great lengths to vehemently tell us how good it was that it had rained. I’m guessing they thought we were clueless tourists who didn’t want our walking spoiled and didn’t realize how desperate the residents are for rain.

      The rain brought us some new sights and sounds: snails crossing the road amidst green bursts of moss and an hours-long symphony of birdsong from every turn of the path. In spite of the clouds, we had good views of La Platera from various angles. Our house is just outside the village, set off by itself with a lovely arbor at the back, and of course, the era and the acequia. Like all the cortijos around here, it’s a very large house, built to accommodate multiple generations. I think there are 12 bedrooms in all. These days it is rented out as six separate units ranging from a studio to three bedrooms (but Pedro says we are the only people here since Easter). It’s been a privilege to stay here and soak up the history of a way of life that hardly exists anymore, and with the exclamation point of the rain, quite a fitting last day to our weeks in the Sierra de Segura.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dag 74

      La Platera: Collado de Montero

      22. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      It’s cloudy today and every once in awhile, there are a few droplets that meander down from the sky, but there isn’t any outpouring of the kind that would nourish plants and animals. The frogs in the local water tank are happy, though.

      Our route today was in the best condition of all the dirt tracks we have walked in the last ten weeks. No ruts, no potholes, no excessive loose stones, no narrow sections - just a wide, well-graded track rising steadily from La Platera to the Collado de Montero. As such, it was a bit of a mystery. We kept asking each other why a track in such perfect condition was here. It didn’t lead anywhere important, so why was it so special that it even merited being here, much less being maintained in such stellar fashion? There was a barrier just beyond the village that could close off the track, but why? Ice or snow in the winter? Fire danger? On the way up it passed access roads into numerous olive groves, most so steep that the prints in the dirt were of tractors with tracks rather than tires. But orchard access wouldn’t account for such a fine track.

      At the pass, we could see lots of signs and thought maybe they would give us a clue. First set: trail markers, no clue. Second set: comunidad boundary markers, no clue. Third set (after another lockable barrier): a big sign with red letters announcing “Danger! Hunting Area”. Not the tame little black and white “coto privado“ signs you usually see. Aha!

      So we are guessing that either the Sociedad de Caza Arroyo Montero maintains the track to this high standard or they have a lot of influence on whatever other entity is responsible for the track. Either way, it provided a great route for us today!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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    • Dag 42

      Casa Berrea: Cortijos

      20. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Today was devoted to exploring cortijos either old and abandoned or old and renovated in the area around our house. Along the way we saw deer and birds of prey, as well as lizards and plenty of huge pine cones for the next guests to use as fire starters. We are going to be very sorry to leave this peaceful spot tomorrow.

      A signboard near the trail listed the common characteristics of traditional cortijos for us to look for:
      - located next to a water source for people, livestock, and agriculture, like the Arroyo de Aguascebas Grande that we walked up today.
      - at a considerable altitude for summer grazing
      - nestled in a forest area for firewood and surrounded by fertile land.
      - shed-roofed structures at the rear of the farmhouse where cattle were collected at night
      - austere facades
      - square windows with wooden lintels
      - thick walls made with native stone and lime and mud mortar to isolate the interior from extreme temperatures
      - roofs covered with Arabic tiles

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cortijos-…
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    • Dag 40

      Casa Berrea: Navazalto Peak

      18. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      They say that if you are very quiet and still, you may see residents of the nearby colony of Griffon vultures when you reach the fire lookout at the top of Navazalto. We were not lucky enough to see them riding the thermals today, but the spectacular vistas made up for it. The view from the top is renowned as one of the most encompassing in Andalucía, and we spotted place after place that brought back memories.

      On the way down we met a very determined sheep who we thought at first was being friendly (see the video), but it turned out that she wanted us far away from her baby. No matter how wide a detour we made around them, as soon as we got back on the track, she chased us aggressively. Quite an unexpected adventure!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/navazalto…
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    • Dag 51

      La Hueta: Acequias

      29. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      We’ve long been interested in the water-channeling system of acequias introduced by the Muslims during their rule here in Andalucía. In the Sierra Nevada in 2018, we were able to walk along high mountain acequias de careo that channel winter snow-melt to areas of underground infiltration where the water can emerge from springs lower down during the summer. Here today, in La Hueta, for the first time we were able to watch a farmer opening and closing his irrigation channels off the main acequia de riego. This system allows him to water his potatoes and tomatoes in spite of five months of no rain. I wish we had asked him if we could video the process, but we were so busy asking him questions that it never occurred to us until too late.

      La Hueta is located about three kilometers farther up the Río Morles than Puente Honda. It is criss-crossed with old acequias dug out of the ground and the modern replacement - big black hoses. All of them feed the huertas (vegetable gardens) that I assume gave the village its name (minus the “r”).

      As if that wasn’t enough good luck in meeting people for the day, on our way back from one of our walks we met the one person who still lives in La Hueta year-round. We had been told that she was a spry 86 year-old, and sure enough, we met her marching down the steep track to Puente Honda on a four kilometer walk with her liter bottles in a shopping bag to get the good water from the fountain there and to see friends who only come out to the village on weekends!

      Today’s Wikiloc tracks:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-hueta-…
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-hueta-…
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    • Dag 41

      Casa Berrea: Tornajos

      19. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      We stumbled upon a rare find today: wooden tornajos (livestock watering troughs) from many years ago, now seen only in remote corners of the mountains. Curiously, these were sometimes topped with a structure made from sticks in the form of trestles whose function was to prevent vultures from bathing in them to wash and groom their feathers, thus dirtying the water where later the sheep would come to drink!

      Today, tornajos (also called abrevaderos) are most often made of concrete (though old bathtubs sometimes substitute), and are often linked in long, narrow chains of seven or more troughs. No matter what they are made of, we think it is a real treat to come upon these signs of rural life.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tornajos-…
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    • Dag 7

      Tag 7 endet in Ubeda

      21. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Nach der ersten Etappe über eine traumhafte Hochebene und beste Bergpanoramen eine relativ lange Fahrt durch eine Ebene mit unendlich vielen Olivenbäumen und sehr viel Weinanbau.
      Danach wieder ein neues Mittelgebirge, diesmal in Andalusien mit tollen Kurvenstraßen und schönen, sehr abwechslungsreichen Aussichten...und das beste: immer fast alleine; so gut wie kein Verkehr...
      Eine absolute Reiseempfehlung für jeden, der gerne durch schöne Landschaften cruised.
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