• Steve Broyles

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure.
Baca lagi
  • Karma (re)Joins the Crew

    20 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Olivier's dog, Karma, came back from the pet sitter last night.

    So now we are three aboard the Mabaï, and of course I am happy as any dog lover at having the extra canine energy around.

    Also notable- I went to the airport to pass immigration, easy peasy; got a delicious croissant & cafe; had a real, land-based shower; and enjoyed some time among the fine folks at ACHM - the yacht club /sailing school of Mayotte.Baca lagi

  • Volcano Hike

    20 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Olivier very generously offered to play tour guide today and took what turned out to be 12 people for a nice volcano rim hike.

    We walked through groves of mango, papaya, banana, guava and jackfruit; were amused by giant fruit bats and a few songbirds; enjoyed a stroll along the coconut palm lined lakeshore (which is showing serious drought problems, sadly) and ooo'd and ahhh'd at the majesty of the islands, lake, and clouds at sunset.

    The exercise was welcome after a few days at sea and the views and company were excellent.
    Baca lagi

  • Dolphins Always Smile

    22 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    I sure like sea mammals.

    As we were approaching the southern tip of the island, Kimi and I were saying: this was a perfect sail, now we just need dolphins! And a few minutes later (might have been an hour, time does funny things while sailing) we saw some splishes off to starboard and happily welcomed our welcome committee.

    They danced along our bow for a little while, cavorting effortlessly, and watching us as much as we were watching them, I suspect.

    I hope to always feel this childlike sense of wonder upon seeing these marvelous animals.
    Baca lagi

  • Turtle Cove

    23 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    We sailed, sometimes with good wind, down to the SE portion of Mayotte and were blown away by the beauty underwater. There's a cute boutique hotel on an isolated beach and a beachfront restaurant with wildly overpriced food (but tasty coffee)... and not much else.

    Except the reef. Which is healthy and fabulous. And the lemurs, which were curious and fun to watch. And the baobab trees: Seussian and enormous. And I've seen at least 10 turtles, many of whom weren't the keast bit bothered by swimming akongside a hairless ape.

    We stayed two nights, moored to a really nice buoy that is located practically on top of a large coral head - a coral "patata" in local parlance. The french call everything a potato.

    I spent hours swimming amongst the brilliant colors and looking for fun things to shoot, with my camera. Everything inside the lagoon of Mayotte is protected from hunting and commercial fishing, which helps explain why it is so healthy and vibrant. Good policy (well enforced) helps everyone. Apparently the fishing just outside the lagoon is spectacular.

    Phil and Kimi have been generous and affable, I enjoy their company very much. They'll be pushing on towards South Africa soon and I hope our paths cross down the line somewhere.
    Baca lagi

  • Wrecked

    28 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    There's a really cool wrecked schooner in the moorings near the Mayotte Yacht Club.

    What was once a disaster for someone: sinking your schooner can't be fun....

    Is now a reef teeming with fish and growing corals. Beautiful.

    So sometimes things just take a little time to convert from "bad" to "good", that's life!

    Also, sailed some. Sailing is fun.
    Baca lagi

  • Adapt

    28 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We decided that the rolling swell that woke us at 4AM was, in a word: crap.

    So after running some errands and buying fresh baguettes (Nous sommes en la France)
    we set off towards the North.

    After a very short while of sailing into the wind very slowly we confirmed that the weather forecast was, in a word: crap.

    So ...
    South!

    Because sometimes you've gotta play the hand you're dealt.
    Baca lagi

  • Full Moon (and Karaoke)

    29 September 2023, Mayotte ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    I didn't get any pics of the kids singing karaoke in French, but it was pretty cute.

    Mayotte Yacht Club, Friday night. Good times, pleasant memories.

    The pizza next door was delicious, the moonlit calm water dingy ride home was breathtakingly beautiful.Baca lagi

  • jaunt on Grande-Terre

    2 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Mayotte is a gorgeous archipelago located about 200 miles from Madagascar and slightly further from Mozambique.

    I've been here for a few weeks and have seen several of the smaller islands along with most of Petit-Terre, the smaller of the two populated isles.

    Today we (Phil, Kimi, and Steve) rented a cute little zoomie Fiat Panda to ferry across to Grande-Terre to see what the rest of Mayotte looks like.

    I got to drive as they are from countries who put the steering (and traffic) on the wrong side. I really enjoyed being behind the wheel for the 2nd day in the last 4+ months.

    Just figuring out the ferry was a minor challenge - there are two and a third that passenger ferry that goes to the Comoros. We sorta lucked onto the right answer by just following the traffic. Sometimes it pays to be a sheep.

    The ferry staff doesn't like passengers in the cars for boarding so Kimi & Phil jumped out and very nearly boarded the boat to Comoros. That would have been one heck of a story, but also a multi-hour international fiasco. Fortunately they got it squared away.

    Disembarking from the ferry went smoothly and we dove into heavy traffic chaos in the downtownish area of Mamoudzou (the Capital). Once free from that we drove up into the hills and found the lovely Gite du Mont Combani. The hotel grounds are covered by lush flowering tropical plants, a grove of sensuously scented ylang ylang, and a friendly troupe of lemurs (who nearly stole our lunch!). We enjoyed some coffee and a beautiful view of the water, then a tasty chef's salad. As the only guests present we were happy that we found food, even better that it was yummy and healthy. I've noticed a propensity for meat and french fries around here... Salad made my taste buds happy.

    After lunch we did a quick but very steep hike up to a communications tower, hoping for an even better view that did materialize. We were joined by one of the cute little hotel dogs, which was fun; and a variable but mostly light rain that was... Ok, still pretty fun. It's been hot down on the water so some cool mountain air and rainfall was a pleasant change.

    While the vegetation and weather felt surprisingly similar to ~500m altitude tropical wet forests in Central America there was a surprising dearth of butterflies and birds. Sure, we saw a few birds... But really few and far between. I wonder if it's due to being an island or a sign of something unbalanced in the ecology.

    After the hike, and dropping off our canine escort, we jumped back in the Panda and headed off to explore the northern portion of the island. Inconveniently the rain seemed to perk up its ears each time we stopped and so we didn't do much more exploration on foot.

    Truth be told we were also feeling more than a little apprehension because several locals commented on the recent increase of insecurity including some tourist mugging. Better safe than sorry is rarely my mantra but in a case like this - we don't know the language nor what parts of town are safer/less safe - it seemed prudent to enjoy views vs tromp down pathways unknown.

    In retrospect, a Sunday may have been wiser: safety in numbers and all that.

    After a few hours of exploring we decided that Northern Grande-Terre is pretty and wet and has a much lower level of economic prosperity compared to Petit-Terre. Funny in that water is clearly much more truly-valuable than money*, and this area has true wealth vs the water-starved but whiter/richer Petit-Terre. "Civilization" does strange things.

    *Don't believe me? Give up both for 3 days and tell me which one you want 1st.

    The ferry ride back was uneventful once we realized we had to buy a card to pay the fare. Easy enough with the very helpful folks who pointed me in the right direction. Uneventful but refreshingly cool and sparkly in the night air. Even after 40 days aboard yachts, I freaking LOVE being on a ferry. My time commuting SF-Oakland trained me well. #ferrytales live on!
    Baca lagi

  • Au Revoir, Cielo

    3 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    I feel deep gratitude for how generously Kimi and Phil invited me into theor floating home.

    My stay aboard the Cielo was full of great conversation, beautiful coral and turtle spotting, dolphins, delcious food, a day long lark on the big(ger) island, some good sailing lessons, software instructions, lemurs, laughter, and encouragement to follow my heart and dreams.

    Farewell, friends!

    https://www.facebook.com/sailingcielo
    Baca lagi

  • Couché de Soleil Entre Amis

    3 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    The day was a wee bit stressful - at least what passes for stressful in my presently charmed existence.

    As Cielo headed off to South Africa I found myself at loose ends without much clear direction but with an abundance of surety that it would all work out.

    Over a coffee (delicous, delcious coffee) and some pastries (er mer gerd delicous apple filled thingy and pain au chocolat) Olivier invited me to join him in the afternoon for a beach stroll with some friends, and to talk about staying aboard Mabaï.

    So! much of my immediate problem (where to sleep) was resolved. My alternative was to test out my French skills and find an AirBnB... Which I did not relish doing for various reasons, not the least of which was the likely distance from the Yacht Club which has become a comfortable pseudohome. Et voilà!

    I still need to clarify my own next steps. Relying on the generosity of friends only goes so far. I'm leaning towards a flight to Madagascar and also looking into aome alternatives while keeping an open mind and saying "yes", which has worked remarkeably well to date.

    Oh,
    We went to the beach. It was a beautiful cloudy afternoon. Dogs cavorted. The sun put on a show. We strolled. I practiced French.

    After the sun dropped behind the verdant hills of Grande-Terre we headed back to the club for a delightful meal with three boats' crews. I borrowed a scooter to grab wine and some snacks to add to the potluck, and a fine time was had by all in French, English, and Spanish.

    An amusing lesson learned last night: vin (wine) and vingt (20) are pronounced exactly the same in French and neither sounds at all like how they are read-aloud in English.
    Baca lagi

  • Starter Saga (Conclusion?)

    4 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Olivier has a buddy who is a Yanmar "expert" and has rebuilt the starter. After popping it open to take a look.... I am lukewarm about long-term expectations.

    He did replace a part.

    There are various parts that are still greatly exceeding spec for "worn the hell out"

    But, hey! it worked!! Twice!

    I'm glad to see Olivier is also shopping for a new starter and plans to keep this one as a spare.

    I can now R&R a Yanmar starter in about 5 minutes.
    Baca lagi

  • Reflection

    6 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Mayotte

    I'd never even heard of it three months ago.

    Now it feels like one more on a long list of places I'm gonna miss until I am here again.

    That's one of the hazards of travel.... We can't be everywhere, can we?Baca lagi

  • Surfing the Crater

    6 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Other than the now-fairly-normal diving into warm and beautiful sea to start my day, today's highlight was my 1st surf session in Africa.

    Olivier, his dog Karma, and I took a longboard on a scooter (super safe, Mom, I promise) down a bumpy road to an amazing volcano caldera that has 1 side eroded by the sea and a ring of sand, palms, and mangroves.

    We met up with two lovely ladies (and another pooch) to enjoy a cloudy but beautiful afternoon of muted blues, grays, and sparkling sunrays that sneaked through onto the moonscape of volcanic rocks.

    The surf was ok, a little sloppy from an offshore rain shower and too-low tide.

    The water is 28 degrees (~81F) - a smidge warmer than the air when the breeze was blowing.

    An empty lineup.

    Paradise.

    (But alas, no photos to share)
    Baca lagi

  • Expectations and Warm Bread

    8 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Going to a bakery when you're hungry...
    The smell of bread fresh from the oven...
    I'll take three.

    Life is good.

    Simple Pleasures

    I'd do a shot of steam rising from the hot delicious loaf except it's in the high 70s (mid 20s) and 90% humid.... no steam can persist within this steamy weather.

    Still tastes amazing.

    Also I get the chance to see just how much my French has improved. I can now order food with minimal "what on earth are you saying?" Looks from the friendly gal behind the counter. A big step forward vs the 1st time I was here. When was that? Feels like yesterda-lastmonth.

    I'm glad that my meanders brought me to where I am. I certainly didn't expect to be here, scooting to a French bakery on an African isle. If someone had asked me even two months ago, there is zero % chance I'd have accurately described anything about today except: pet some dogs, eat some pain au chocolat, sip some coffee*. Life is fun that way.

    *Ok, also: I'll be wearing graying shorts and a blue shirt. Because _that_ happens dang near every day.
    Baca lagi

  • Wildlife

    9 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Mangroves are possibly the most important areas in the world, from a conservation standpoint.

    It seems like Mayotte is doing a good job of protecting them for the most part and that makes me happy.

    Also, the local geckos are pretty.
    Baca lagi

  • So Long ACHM

    9 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    I've enjoyed Mayotte.

    Great people, great reefs, great weather, great doggos.

    We had a send off dinner of sorts. Yachties don't go too nuts with goodbyes as they're highly itinerant folks to begin with.

    I'll miss the waggly tails and French lessons. I might even find myself reminiscing and mentally editing out the painfully slow internet and fast mosquitos.

    Now it's off to new adventures and Karma reminds me:

    Wag More.
    Follow your whimsy. Embrace your joy.

    Be excited about what you're doing or do something else because life is both excruciatingly short and interminably long, depending entirely on our ability to enjoy it.
    Baca lagi

  • Travel Is Fun! ... half truth?

    10 Oktober 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Nah
    It's fun. :)

    This morning was exciting. Olivier volunteers with the local equivalent of sorta-coast-sorta-life guards. Pretty rad: he gets to zoom around in a ~40ft rib with twin 300HP engines. 40kts sounds like a hoot.

    And so at 3AM he got up and out to go offload a malaria-sick Russian sailor from a 600ft cargo ship in bucking waves. I sorta slept through it and was only slightly concerned about his getting back in time to get me to the airport. A plan B was in place but was not needed.

    I enjoyed a cloudy sunrise and some coffee then he returned and I packed up my backpack (this should be faster! I've packed so. many. times) and we headed off for one last delicious pain au chocolat et cafe elaongee. Ah... I will miss France (erm, Mayotte).

    We cut things a wee bit close on getting me to the airport. It's a tiny airport and only runs a couple flights per day.

    Interestingly.... It seems that two or three of today's flights are basically now. How efficient of them! And what a tremendous amount of disorganization!

    The highlight of my travel day is going to be hard to pinpoint... But the first very exciting moment was the check-in agent telling me that it is not possible to board *To Madagascar* unless one has a return/exit ticket *From Madagascar*. This regulation is not unusual, per se, but discovering it a week after buying my ticket while trying to board was very exciting. Finding out that I had five minutes to resolve the situation or I'd miss my flight? Oh, boy! What fun.

    At this point I want to express my profound appreciation and gratitude for having a credit card and a USA passport.

    So I trotted over to the ticket counter and asked about a refundable ticket to anywhere (while humming a Journey tune). My eyes jus barely remained within my noggin when the lovely young woman told me it was 4,970 euros. Laughing, I said "that's refundable if I change the ticket, right?" She said yes. I rephrased and re-asked the question to ensure no language barrier. One cannot be too thorough in these matters!

    And so I bit the bullet and bought the ticket.

    To my tremendous relief, it was €497.
    Sometimes losing a zero is quite a relief despite being nothing.

    And while doing this the gate agent came over to tell me that carry-on is limited to 6kg (less than 15lbs) and I have to check my backpack. So I reluctantly left my passport with ticket lady and followed gate lady to check my bag. It merits mention that I am on the plan now with dozens of people who have roller bags that are very clearly more than 5kg.... But no matter.

    Oops: spoiler. I made the flight.

    Ok
    So checked in and booked onward, I got into the immigration/security line at about 7:30, for an 8:00am flight. This is never a great thing and recent missed-by-minutes flights have me feeling less than optimistic about tight timelines.

    In the glacial immigration line I managed to relax into whatever is coming next. What choice is there? When two people cut in front of me for passport control I laughed out loud... And the person behind me called out something to them, which apparently shamed them into stopping and letting me go. So sometimes laughter *is* the best medicine!

    Security was remarkably thorough for a 50 minute puddle jumper flight in a turboprop. What the hell am I going to do hijacking *this* plane?!?

    And so I hustled through.... To wait.

    They took our tickets then had us walk down a flight of stairs to the tarmac, where we waited fifteen minutes. For a bus. That didn't work. Then one that does. To drive.... 26 seconds at 5mph to the plane. Ha!!

    The gate agent walked past us after we boarded the bus and got to the plane 20 meters away before we did. What a remarkable example of following rules. Good for another chuckle.

    And so finally at 8:46 we are taxiing. For a flight for which I was urgently rushed through boarding at 7:00.

    Sigh. Travel *is* fun, but sometimes ya gotta look for the joy in the absurdity. A lot like life, no?

    And that refundable ticket? It says no refunds in the fine print.
    Baca lagi

  • Madagascar!!

    10 Oktober 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Since studying Ecology , Bahavior, and Evolution in College, I've dreamed of someday visiting the world's 4th largest island.

    At about 145% the size of California, and geologically isolated for millennia, Madagascar has a variety of flora, fauna, and ecology that is purported to be truly amazing.

    I'm starting with a weeklong playcation of kiteboarding, but look forward to exploring, too!

    Also their visas are nifty.

    Wheee!
    Baca lagi

  • Ocean Lodge, Wow!

    10 Oktober 2023, Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 82 °F

    Room with a view?

    Yup.

    Hammock?

    Yup.

    Crystalline blue water and consistent wind?

    Yup.

    It's even solar powered.

    I'm smitten.

  • Kites are Pretty

    11 Oktober 2023, Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 79 °F

    One of the many things I love about kiting as a sport is that it is so casually beautiful.

    In part, that's due to the fact that windblown beaches are pretty places. In part, the sunlight playing on colorful inflated nylon is often beautiful. That the colorful nylon then goes out into the sea .... voilà!Baca lagi

  • Almost Caught It! Sunrise #2

    12 Oktober 2023, Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The day starts early here in Eastern Madagascar. 4:45 found me hustling to watch the sky... it started the show without me but I enjoyed it very much all the same.

    Getting mobbed by doglets after watching a cow-drawn carriage after watching a slowly changing panorama of colors all by myself is a fantastic start to the day.

    Life isn't perfect, though. In the interest of fairness I'll share that I am feeling a tinge of loneliness. I'm in an incredibly romantic spot all by myself. My body is sore (despite the hourlong massage I enjoyed yesterday). I have to do my tax return today via my cellphone. That's gonna be unpleasant, for sure (and is the result of my own lack of planning). I've got a few mozzie bites. I'm not as involved with my family as I'd prefer to be; it's not easy from across the world. I am glad that my French is improving but frustrated at not being able to make myself understood beyond a very topical level.

    So, yeah, cry me a river. I know. I recognize that I've got it really good and I am grateful for the good luck and the support of other people that have made it possible for me to be living my life this way.
    Baca lagi

  • Breathwork Interrupted

    13 Oktober 2023, Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    No need to hurry for the sunrise today: clouds wrap the morning in a white-gray blanket, muting the sun's fiery arrival but making the sea an enchanting palette of verdigris, old glass, and pewter.

    Still at 5:15 I got out of bed to sit on the white sands and meditate with the shish of gentle waves and the breeze in my sleep tussled hair.

    Stillness evades my mind today so after a while I opted for apnea training instead. I'm always impressed at how three minutes can seem like a very long time indeed, but a 15 minute session ends ao quickly. Time is fun like that: slippery stuff.

    As I was finishing, and as the sun was starting to show some small headway in it's struggle with the clouds, a happy dog came bounding up the beach. For those of you who aren't "dog people", I don't know how to describe the pleasure of having a friendly one greet you, for those who are I suppose I don't have to.

    I don't know anything about him except that he is friendly and seems well fed. Lucky dog, him, to live near a beach with friendly tourists.

    The road to this paradise ends about 1km (halfish mile) from the resort so there are a couple of cow carts that lug supplies (or luggage). It is very quaint. It is also very quiet - I hadn't realized until just now how pleasantly the absence of internal combustion engines compliments the birdsong and wavesounds.
    Baca lagi

  • Wish I Had A....

    14 Oktober 2023, Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    One of the amusing side effects of this unplanned sortie has been that I don't have: many things.

    I haven't weighed it recently but my pack was 8kg in Croatia. I'd guess it is similar now but let's round up to 10kg just in case. That's 22lbs.

    I forget the exact capacity, but it is nearly 35liters. That, by most metrics is a large day-pack.

    And yet ... I have been fine with it for almost five months on the road in a dozen countries and three continents.

    Still.... I do find myself frequently wishing I had something or another. Today? Some sort of mount for my GoPro. All I have is a floatie handle and I would really like to capture some imagery of me wingfoiling so I could share it. Yeah, I want to brag a little. That's part of it.

    But also I'd like to share something other than sunrise/sunset and pics of me reading a book in the shade are even less interesting than me learning how to fall off a foil board.

    The wind is fickle today, so maybe I will try to take out the camera. I dunno if I will even be able to get the foil up out of the water... But maybe!

    Until then.... here's my feet while I read, a friendly doggie, and a pretty splash of dawn's early light.
    Baca lagi