• Steve Broyles
lip – gru 2023

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure.
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  • Rozpocznij wyprawę
    11 lipca 2023

    Not Quite Done

    12 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Just cuz it it ended, doesn't mean it's over.

    I haven't really gotten my head around what "post Camino" might mean. Other than the fact I woke alone in a comfy bed with real sheets and an apartment with view of the city instead of squeeky bunk beds .... And put on flip flops to casually stroll to a cafe at 10am instead of dusting my feet and donning my tattered hiking shoes to walk west at 7:20.... It feels pretty similar: new town (city), new faces , a delicious napolitana (pan de chocolate), and a cafe americano...

    There's a lot more to share, but my coffee is cooling. Stay tuned!
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  • Shopstavaganza; New Kicks

    12 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    For the better part of 2 months I have been doing whatever I can to reduce pack-weight for walking.

    Now that I'm in a stable space for a few days, and planning to walk a lot less, I decided to add a few items to make life more pleasant.

    Peanut butter figured high on that list. It's really heavy. I may not finish it this week but I'll enjoy it while I have it!

    My feet are elated that I've also added a new pair of shoes. They aren't as high quality as the old, but they also don't have over 1,000km on them!

    And I now own *5 shirts* ! These are exciting times in Life of Steve, I assure you.
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  • Swimmies!

    12 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Active recovery is the name of the game today. I haven't done a swim workout since April so it was awesome to get in the pool and also a little humbling.... I'm not feeling quite as merman-ish as normal.

    Interesting difference between this and every other pool I have ever used (there are dozens):
    They require a swim cap. Curious. Fortunately they had a loaner I could borrow. I suppose soaking it in chlorine makes it pretty safe as a vector. I hope.
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  • Family Time

    12 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I just enjoyed the hell out of an afternoon spent with two of my host-siblings from a little while ago.

    And the views here are even better than I remember.

    Also... Dairy-free gelato

  • Trapped!

    13 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    My cute little airbnb is now a shambles of drying clothes. It resembles the "after the seduction" scene in a campy 80s movie: shirts dripping off of open cupboard doors and pants on the chair.

    Despite the airbnb host's assertion that the washing machine is a washer-dryer, and despite having let it run on "auto" overnight....

    It does not appear to be a washer-dryer.
    And I haven't found directions online that make it behave that way.

    So!
    The "I'm so excited to put every piece of clothing I own in the wash" idea turned into: "Sitting around naked eating oatmeal and waiting for clothes to dry."

    Which, in the end, isn't a terrible way to spend a morning. At least I have oatmeal, the weather is a pleasant mid-70s, and I generally enjoy sitting around naked.

    If anyone knows the secret to making a Boscch WVF 2401 washer also be a dryer, let me know! It has very much outwitted me despite my best efforts.

    NB: I do have 1 pair of new socks and a new shirt, so technically I don't *have* to be *completely* naked. But.... It very much limits my options on leaving the apartment.
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  • Blast from the Past

    13 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Went to visit the high school I attended 31 years ago and I was amused (and flattered) to see that they've got a plaque and photos on the wall by the principal's office, commemorating my stay.

    Fun times.

    It felt strange to retrace footsteps from so long ago, with my Spanish Brother, Emilio. Strange in a fun way.

    So we got a beer and a sandwich, too.
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  • Dipping my Toes in the Atlantic

    13 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Took a ferry from Vigo to Cangas today, a beautiful way to spend a sunny afternoon.

    Not only was I happily spending time with the wonderful people of my Spanish Family, but I also got sunshine, mango sorbetto, and a chance to dip my toes in the Atlantic. Win, win, win, and win.

    And if you know me at all, you know that I freakin' love ferry boats. #ferrytales do come true.
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  • Fiesta del Viernes

    15 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    A fairly normal Friday night in Spain.... Meet at 9:30PM for dinner and a drink.

    Visit a few bars. Then a few more. Then I get tired 'early' and go home at 3AM. By 5 everyone else had thrown in the towel, too.

    Great fun was had, we visited bars where we used to play back in '92... I'm amazed that they're still there.

    It was a warm night - 70's - and most people were in the streets instead of indoors... Which is definitely the best way to spend a summer night out in the City.
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  • Maps are fun

    15 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Hungover this morning I decided to start firming up my travel plans for the next few weeks. It's a lot of moving parts and my 1st choice is always to just 'go with the flow' but as summer travel gets busy.... The Flow maybe requires some reservations.... Czytaj więcej

  • Coastal Jaunt

    15 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Jorge, Emilio and I decided to take our hungover selves out for some fresh air.

    The next estuary (Ría) north of here is Ría de Pontevedra and had some great sights to see.

    We started with a gentle hike to the Celtic and Roman ruins of Cabo Home with an enormous view of the rugged coastline, then grabbed a drink and discussed technological advances, AI, bagpipes, homonyms, self-driving cars, children, and the importance of positivity, among various other topics.

    As the wispy clouds crept in (with sundogs!) we changed venues to a spectacular beach at Playa Lapaman and enjoyed a polycolor sky explosion along with our delicious meal of snacks, as the sun set at 10:30PM.

    The drive home was sparkly with lights reflecting off of the two bays, but kinda quiet as all three of us are tired from last night's shenanigans.
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  • Family Sunday

    16 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The day started late, I seem to be adapting to Spanish time and slept until 9AM again. I woke to golden sunlight filling my room, which is a delicious way to start the day.

    I'll miss my comfy little City refuge.

    After some journaling and a brief yoga session, I put some earnest work into planning the next phases of my trip. I really want(ed) to do as much intra-European travel as possible via train. Trains just seem so... Civilized. Alas, my lack of making clear plans means I'm now relegated to buses and maybe planes.

    At least I have the next few days booked and the next two weeks planned pretty specifically (with some space for improvisation).

    After a delicious lunch with my family, we all headed to a local park (also a castle, because: Europe) to read, snooze, play frisbee, and plan multinational trips. It was warm in the sun, cool in the shade; perfect.

    Then at about 9PM with the sun getting lower we headed for our last meal together. Tomorrow I'll head onward to Portugal.

    I can't overstate how much I have enjoyed being here this week. It felt like sitting down to a favorite meal; familiar and nourishing. It amazes and pleases me how easily and comfortably we still get along despite three decades and thousands of miles of distance.
    I am a fortunate man.

    Spending six nights in the same bed after nearly 45 in different beds surely also contributes to my comfort... But a part of me also feels the need to get moving; to continue my journey; to embrace forward motion after a week of being inevitably focused on the past. Again, I recognize my tremendous good fortune in being able to travel onward and to keep moving. Never take your good health nor your access to resources for granted.

    On the way home from dinner, I was chatting on the phone (internet telephony is *amazing*) while I walked up a deserted pedestrian street and to my happy surprise I saw a 20€ note fluttering along in the breeze. Looking around a little I found several more... 75€ in all. Not a bad thing to find, not bad at all. The complete absence of other people made it unlikely I could return the money to its rightful owner.

    And with that, my evening comes to a close. It's only 12:15, so the city is far from asleep, but I'd like to be well-rested enough to enjoy my time in Oporto tomorrow.
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  • Fun Start to the Day; Bus

    17 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I showed up on time with a pre-purchased ticket... And am told that the bus is oversold.

    Interesting.

    This is new to me. I'm trying to look at it as exciting and new: like The Love Boat ... Only it appears that they *aren't* expecting [me].

    Who knows what amazing adventure is in store, now, that I would have missed otherwise?!?

    EDIT: well I'll be darned. 10 minutes later and I'm seated on a fresh bus. I barely even lost faith.

    EDIT 2: there's someone else arguing with the driver because they want him to wait for someone who is arriving "now".... 17 minutes late for the original bus departure time... And despite his overwhelming reluctance and frustration, the driver waits. It takes about 90 seconds. The late people arrive.

    Humanity prevails.

    Sure.... 14 people lost 90 seconds. But the two who made the bus instead of not making it surely benefit more than the rest of us lose.

    I know that if the tables were turned, I'd be mighty glad that the bus waited 90 seconds.

    EDIT 3: I've got 2 seats all to myself, up front. Which I enjoy. This is going very well, so far.
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  • World's Prettiest Bookstore

    17 lipca 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I feel like maybe it wasn't the best allocation of time and money, but I just toured an absolutely amazing bookstore: Livreria Lello.

    It wasn't until I had a book in hand that I realized: "What the heck am I thinking? I don't want a heavier backpack!" Also it's presently overflowing until I get to a post office to send a few things away.

    So I paid 5€ to tour a stunningly beautiful building and oggle some books (always time well spent). Even better, there's a gelato store next door and that was delicious.

    So far, Oporto is amazing.
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  • Oporto

    17 lipca 2023, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    One of the troubles with travel is the constant balancing of seeing all the things and also investing sufficient time to appreciate and understand the things we see. I think I erred on the side of 'all the things' in this case and am wishing I had arranged to have more depth. Which would, of course, mean less breadth - either here or in another place before or after.

    I arrived by bus and strolled through part of the city being (re)built - cacophonous and dusty, my initial impression was not positive. When I saw a big yellow topless double-decker tour bus roll by, I was reminded of fun times in Guadalajara and decided to get a quick view of the city (breadth) along with an audiotour (depth, ish) without too kuc hiking around in the brilliant sunshine.

    I was pleasantly surprised by the inexpensive Gallery Hostel and its inviting bar, but bopped off to see the sights. Walking through the Old Town on my way to the bus tour immediately reframed my perspective!

    Oporto is a beautiful diverse city full of things and places to explore.

    Castles, rivers, wine, books, monuments, alleys, hills, cathedrals, cobblestones, highways, murals, fountains.... The list is near endless.

    The bus tour was delightful and if I had more time I'd go again (24 hr pass is 22€) to hop-on/hop-off and add depth to the more interesting sights. But I started late and there are only so many hours in the day. After the bus I stumbled upon a beautiful bookstore (see other post), gelato, and then took myself to watch a nice sunset before finding a delicious albeit slightly overpriced (Touristy) dinner of steamed clams, fresh bread, and a salmon/avocado salad. The red wine I had was excellent.

    I can't quite figure out the timing here- places seem to open fairly late, like Spain, but close earlier than I expected.... Which was good as I could use the rest.

    After an ample and tasty breakfast I spent 40 minutes running (almost literally) around town trying to time the hop-on bus. A brisk morning walk through awakening city streets, invigorating! Then I jumped on bus tour #2 - 'beaches and castles'... Which felt less historic but was scenic and the cool sea breeze reminds me of home. The tour wrapped up at the Cathedral and I did a speed-tour of same, marveling at the tiles and the views, recoiling from the ostentatious display of 'treasures'.

    In 24 hours I didn't even scratch the surface.
    I'm clear that I'd like to come back for more.
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  • Until later, Oporto

    18 lipca 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I liked Oporto so much that I tried to last-minute extend my stay, but there were just too many things....

    And that's the hardest part of travel for me. Previously I have often traveled by car and could make on-the-fly adjustments with relative ease. Most recently, I just figured it out day by day.

    Now I'm coordinating multi-modal international travel and accommodation via cell phone while underway and... It isn't working very smoothly. The results have been ok. I'm excited about next steps on my adventure, including the chance to see good friends.

    However the logistics aren't fun.

    I'll share more thoughts on that, later. Now I'm going to go play.
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  • Truckstop Universality

    18 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    Truckstops look pretty similar in Europe and the USA: same store full of processed foods, random junk, and an oddly expansive liquor aisle.

    Subtle differences exist, but.... So do they between States or even regions.

    Oh, also I think I'm back in Spain.
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  • Plaza Mayor, Salamanca

    18 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    This sort of thing just tickles my fancy so well.
    I hve no idea why these fellows are dressed as they are and playing/drinking in the square. I try not to question the gift horse.

    Also, dining in Spain at 10PM because it's too damn hot to move at 8PM...

    And enjoying excellent food and wine for less than $20 while sitting on a busy cobblestone street full of attractive, happy people, surrounded by centuries-old majestic buildings....

    Life is good.

    (And 77° / 25° at 11:30 is my kind of July)
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  • Mixing It Up (food pics)

    20 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Seeing as how I'm in the heart of ham country, I opted for jamon ibérico, olive oil, and tomato for breakfast; with fresh OJ and a fantastic coffee.

    I am glad I did. Chocolate bready things are still my favorite but it's important to branch out sometimes. Not walking means I really only get one breakfast now (sad, sad Steve) . Though I think Strava is telling me I strolled 13km yesterday.... Touristing is good for more than the heart and soul if we do it right.

    Speaking of heart and soul:
    I am so glad that I have been able to experience so much beauty and learn about history. Many of the stories told about wars fought, castles built, cities found... all come back to emotion. Sometimes those emotions are love often they are described as love but I suspect other motives may have been at play.

    (Edit: more food pics added. I ate a lot of yummy things)
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  • Salamanca Smitten

    20 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Sigh.

    So many cities to love, so little time!!

    After my one-night stand with Oporto I felt like I surely couldn't fall in love again.... Until.. Salamanca grabbed me by the heart (and sweat glands).

    The lazy crowds on hot-summer evening streets, strolling in linen and sundresses through centuries-old red tinted golden sandstone, savoring ice cream amidst countless monumental buildings that are joyfully still in use; the sounds of church bells, live music, and happy children; the sparklingly clean stone streets; and the smells and flavors of fantastic food; I found myself happily trying to do ALL THE THINGS despite knowing our affair could last only two nights.

    In the morning I devoured the history of Europe's first University City, and ran around as much as I could before the day's heat drove me first to a shady meal and eventually to a cool bed to nap off the meal. Evening brought low-light color to the red-gold of the stone. Salamanca's signature coloration comes from the centuries of oxidation of Villamayor sandstone which is naturally a blond color that shifts golden with the expression of oxides exposed to sun, water and time. ( Read more here: https://wp.me/p4Br14-4K )

    Added to that natural process, centuries of exuberant students used a combination of bull's blood, pimentón, and olive oil to paint "vitorias" - celebratory graffiti - upon graduation from their studies with a doctoral degree. The text has a typical style/symbology that has been incorporated into the street names and businesses... Giving a whimsical/historical vibe that made me smile again and again. If smiling is a problem for you, beware: Salamanca had me again and again. Your mileage might vary.

    I couldn't possibly share all the goodness.... Highlights included a very affordable 2hr walking tour, several meals worthy of repeating, world-class people gawking, kids playing in a fountain to beat the 95° (35°) heat, catching the bells and views from the Cathedral tower, meeting some wonderful people and hearing about their travels, sipping a cool beer at the favorite college bar of some close friends, a live band of bards in the Plaza, a very talented street guitarist, finding the famous frog on the facade, watching the river curl through reeds under an old roman bridge, wondering at the hauntingly beautiful sounds as they tuned the cathedral organ, and generally feeling wonderful as hot dry breezes caressed me.

    Hasta luego, Salamanca. Lo nuestro fue breve pero bonito.
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  • Public Transit Excitation

    20 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    The bad news: I had a 15 minute connection between trains and a late arrival. The great news?

    My 1st train of the day's late arrival was ameliorated by good fortune in that I bought the 2nd ticket at the same time, in person, and Renfe ( the train co ) therefore held train #2 to allow a smooth connection! Yes! Winning!
    Internet purchase would have been 2 tickets...and a sad overnight stay in Vitoria for me.

    Of course, train 2 was thus late arriving to San Sebastian (where I hoped to grab a snack and a beverage). This is not great news as it means I missed the Euskotren ( metro ) that I planned to grab to reach Hendaia, France with plenty of time to catch another train/metro to my destination (Biarritz).

    The good news?
    I am a good walker. I made the next metro that might take 40 min to reach the station in Hendaia and the last train to Biarritz leaves in 52 minutes. Or...tomorrow

    Exciting!
    If all goes swimmingly there is a good chance that I'll make it!

    People ask me: "Why trains? Just fly!"
    Well.... About 20% of the worldwide corporations are responsible for more than 90% of all emissions. Airlines are heavily represented in that 20%. And I like lookin out the window.

    But.... Does it help? I don't know.
    Here's a discussion w/re to investing
    https://spotify.link/6VsQ7bLRABb

    Enjoy.
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  • Et Voila

    20 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    I am in France, on the correct local train, on my way to where I want to be.

    I have been in the country for about five minutes and the three people with whom I have spoken have failed utterly to conform to the stereotype that the French are intolerant of Americans.

    Well, except for the ticket machine. It was downright ornery. It allowed me to select English and proceeded to give every prompt in French. Merde!

    Amusingly, my phone coverage has yet to catch up with the international evolution of my journey.... Which makes it <très impossible> to pay with my phone.... And my credit card was deep in my pack. More excitement! Fortunately for me, I have more than 50 days practice with unpacking/packing : <aucun problème>

    The train is rolling now... I had 7 minutes to spare and will go ahead and add a mental ✅ to the win column.

    I really like that my international border crossing consisted of leaving a Spanish metro station in Hendaia, walking 50 meters, entering a French train station in Hendaye. Delightful. The two pics are taken in the same place, incidentally.
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  • Love my AirBNb

    20 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Renting a room is always a gamble.

    I hit the jackpot.

    Love it!

  • Ah, Biarritz

    21 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Someone once told me that his favorite place in Europe is Biarritz so I was predisposed to like this seaside town with several beaches, surf, great food, diving, great food, narrow streets, great food, basque charm, great food and beautiful people on parade. Oh, the weather was pefectly delightful as well.

    While I was only there two brief nights I had the best chocolate sorbet I have tried (and I try them all. Pamplona was a close 2nd, fwiw), fresh delicious seafood, a delightful morning yoga session/swim, a beautiful sunny afternoon swim and stroll watching wavelets and happy people on the beach, and an evening swim workout.... All on separate beaches within a short stroll from the best AirBnb experience I've had.

    I reviewed an incredible seafood market, fell in love a thousand times (ok, maybe lust?), vicariously geared up for scuba, window shopped boutiques, appreciated art, savored a cold beverage or two, and watched some Brazilian fellow jump over a flag. Incredibly patient people tolerated my butchery of their language; among the most notable were A) my airbnb's dog who cared not one lick for how I mispronounced commands: he accepted scritches in 3 languages; and B) the very happily drunk young man at the bus stop at 7:30 AM who was delighted to muddle through a combination of French, Spanish, English to learn a little about where I am from, where I am going, and to heartily recommend that I visit Ustaritz. He is from there and I suspect he is biased... But certainly enthusiastic.

    It helped a great deal that good friends who I have known for nearly 20 years in Costa Rica live part-time in Biarritz and kept me company for the day. Many thanks to you, Jean Marc and Rhonda. I look forward to the next time that our paths cross.
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  • Return To Go, Where's my $200?

    22 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Fate and Flixbus bring me here today.... Gare de Bayonne.

    Right back where I was my first day in France, and my first day on The Camino. (https://findpenguins.com/1ooyf9lg96j6p/footprin… )

    It feels.... Poignant. I'm surprised at how familiar it is after nearly two months of seeing and being in new places. I've slept in close to 50 beds (lost count), visited at least 100 cafes (lost count) sought innumerable yellow arrows (never even tried to count), smiled 10,000+ times, and seen more people, places, and things than one could shake a stick at (I had 2 sticks, *that* I can count).

    I've been to three countries, uncountable towns and villages, and taken over a million steps (literally). I've lightened my load and added new things to it. I've (surprisingly) lost nothing, and gained.... Everything.

    I suppose that the emotion is there regardless of the glimmer that triggers it... Today I found myself disembarking from a snazzy electric bus from Biarritz to see the Gare (train station) and .... The tears just sorta squoze out a little. Happy tears. Tears of recognition that.... ¡Carajo! I really did something special and I am not the same guy who walked into that station in late May. Perhaps the same guy, just a very different version.

    I don't know that I'm any smarter nor wiser, but I am certainly healthier, more open-hearted, calmer, and less .... Depressed.

    I hate to use that word as I feel like there are many other people who are suffering more acutely than I can even imagine. In light of my own emotional struggles with the loss of my brother (among some other things): if you are struggling, please seek help. Even if you don't "need" it. Talk to someone, a professional. There are resources out there. I was prone to tell people that "I have coping mechanisms, I'll be fine" which was utter bullshit. From the bottom of my hole I could barely keep my nose above water and deeply regret the time I wasted there. It took hitting my own version of bottom to convince me to make changes and the journey back to me has been so beautiful that I wish a similar path unto anyone currently in the dark. You can do it.

    And on that happier note, I'm enjoying a (believe it or not) pain au chocolat and a tasty (enormous!) cup of coffee as I get a dose of ocular sunshine ( https://youtu.be/yBjUR16AiBM ) prior to starting my bus journey across the south of France.

    It's a beautiful day. I am happy, healthy, and excited about... Adventure.

    ...much better than the $200 that monopoly promised.
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  • Toulouse, brièvement

    22 lipca 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A reminder to myself to speak up.
    (If you know me, this statement probably surprises you)

    I am now guilty of speaking timidly because I am not confident in my French. As a result, my waiter could not *hear* me.... I can't otherwise explain how "un vin blanc" was converted to "un bière blond". But I received the latter (which is not a problem but is not what I wanted).

    This phenomenon is something I have often experienced with non-native speakers of both English and Spanish in various places. Having now been on the giving side, I get it. It's hard to project when you feel.... Inept.

    Which leads me to think about one of the very good things related to travel: it can offer some opportunities for humility and empathy. The former, well, see above! I am reminded with great frequency of the myriad facts, locations, and languages of which I am wholly ignorant. The latter is related: just because I cannot express myself does not mean that I am without thoughts and desires. As a society we seem to diminish people who communicate poorly. I think after being the 'fool' I'd like to remember this feeling in future interactions with others and afford them the same gentle treatment that I have occasionally (usually) received.

    I succeeded in getting gazpacho, salmon tartar, and coffee. All in (imperfect) French. Gotta give myself credit, where due, to be fair.

    Also: here are some pictures from Toulouse.

    My favorite part of the city was seeing a bunch of fun-looking riverboats moored alongside the road on the way out of town. Seems like a nifty space in which to live.
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