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Camino de Santiago
  • Susan and Jim's Travels
  • Susan Halpin
  • Susan and Jim's Travels
  • Susan Halpin

Camino de Santiago

A 61-day adventure by Susan and Jim's Travels & Susan Read more
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  • Camino de Santiago

    A day off in Burgos?

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We attended a our first Pilgrim Mass in the Burgos Cathedral. It was a little strange, to say the least. We arrived early sat in the pews. When the priest entered, he was followed in by a groups of Pilgrims with back packs and hiking sticks. The priest stopped half way up the isle, and seemed to indicate all the Pilgrim's needed to sit in back. Most ignored him and sat in pews. Then, as the mass proceeded, a man went around, taped pilgrims on the shoulders, and had them move back. Very strange.

    Next week climbed up to the Castillo de Burgos, on the highest hill. Puff, puff, someday off!

    Great views to the east, we could see the ridges we climbed two days ago. To the west, views of the Meseta plateau, covered in empty wheat fields

     We start on the Meseta tomorrow morning.

    Croissant break now!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    2

    Museo del Retablo

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We stopped at this Museum, which has been preserving Retablos ( Altarpieces ) and other pieces of art, from closed and abandoned churches in the Burgos. Small villages have been de-populated as young people leave the agricultural regions around here. As a result churches closed and are shuttered. This Museum started collecting art from closed churches.

    The museum is housed in the closed church is San Esteban (Saint Étienne, Saint Stephen). The collection is amazing. Too many photos to post!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Highlights from a Sunday in Burgos

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Starting with the Pilgrims mass in the Cathedral this morning to having a birds-eye view from the top of the Castillo to seeing how history is being preserved through the Museo del Retablo here in Burgos we have learned a lot & enjoyed our weekend here.

    This afternoon the sky was blue and it was about 73 degrees. The streets were packed with families enjoying the summer- like weather. We walked from one end of the city to the other enjoying the culture and people.

    We are back to our hotel early tonight. The city was hopping until about 4 AM this morning (our room has a window facing out to a main street in the city) I barely slept last night as Bugos won the soccer match last night. The city was celebrating! In bed early to start back on the Camino in the morning.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    2

    A very flat 11k to Tardajos

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We had a nice flat walk this morning , walking along the broad flat valley of the river that runs out of Burgos.

    It looks like we are finally getting to the base of the Meseta plateau, and will beging a gentle climb up, after our coffee break here.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1

    Adios Burgos!

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It's a cool cloudy morning, perfect for walking! We really enjoyed our weekend in the city. As we left we saw a few more interesting sites. There are so many stork nests built on the chimneys of buildings. Also lots of chestnuts on the ground around the city. I often worried I would slide on one & fall. Wish I could bring a few back home with me for Thanksgiving stuffing, but my packing heavy enough!🤗Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Hornillos del Camino

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

    I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    New Favorite Place, Rabe de las Calzadas

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I loved this little village! Not only was the village picturesque, there was a tiny church that was playing beautiful Spanish hymns as I walked in. The alter was so simple and beautiful. After saying a prayer, and as we were leaving there was a nun by the door who said a Pilgrim prayer over us and gave us a handmade necklace with a religious medal. As we walked out of town there were many murals on the sides of buildings with Bible sayings. The sayings were mostly about living in peace with others. The rest of the day I was inspired!Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    8.5 kms to Cafe Fuente Sidres

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    An early start today , as we needed to be out of the Albergue before 8 AM, So a 7:50 walk through the dark streets if town, past the church. And a long gradual climb to the Meseta. We have met Susan from Australia who walked with us all morning.

    Found an Albergue and cafe open outside of of the next town for a late morning coffee.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Hontanas to Castrojeriz

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We walked a short way to the village of Hontonas. We stopped to look into their small church, very nice.

    Continued walking, another 10k to Castrojeriz, along a beautiful valley cut through the Meseta plateau. We passed through the ruins of the Convent of San Anton. Literally through, the paved road runs right through the preserved archway!

    Finally walking the final kilometers across the valley to the hillside town of Castrojeriz, our destination for today. The hilltop has castles ruins, but we have to plans to attempt the steep walk up!

    Checked in to Hostel El Manzana for tonight!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    12

    Sunrise in Hontanas, Sunset CastroJeriz

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were up & out walking before the sun rose this morning. Don't be too impressed as sunrise is at about 7:45!

    We met a new friend Susan from Melbourne Austrslia who walked with us to our destination this afternoon.

    We visited multiple churches. We saw amazing ruins ( Ruinas del convention de San Anton siglio XIV).

    We were given 2 beers as a welcome gift when we arrived at our hostel. Andres & Sabrina from Columbia & Argentina are the new owners of the hostel we are staying in. They are young. They have good music playing in the bar & positive & welcoming energy. It feels like a nice way to end the day that we are staying here!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    An afternoon in Castrojeriz

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A few shots while walking around town, while waiting for all the shops to re-open after siesta. Every day at 2 PM everything shuts down , except bars/cafés, until 5PM.

    This was important today because tomorrow, Oct 12th, is Spain's National Day. Apparently everything will be closed tomorrow, all day! So we hit the Super mercado, stocked up on food ands snacks for tomorrow's walk. Just in case, we bought a cheap Box O'Wine for tomorrow night, for survival purposes! :-)

    Last visit was to a church, Collegiate de Virgen de Santa Maria del Manzana. (Virgin Mary of the Apple Tree? Help me Jeanne-Marie!!!).

    The church and displays were beautiful!!!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    On to Boadilla del Camino

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We set off today a little after sunrise. The valley was filled with fog as we walk up the hill in Castrojeriz. We were treated to the full moon hanging over the Castillo ruins at the top of the hill.

    Highlight of the morning, was a friendly little white dog following us through town, who obviously wanted to be petted. I scratch him behind his ears. He loved it.

    Lowlight or the morning, the dog lifted his leg and pee'ed on my hiking shoe! The little bugger ran away before I could get his photo to show to the Civil Gardia!

    Crossing the valley floor, we quickly realized we had a big climb ahead! Alto de Mostelares. At the top, the sign had the elevation at 1050 meters above sea level.
    After a short walk across the plateau, we descended, and the rest of the day was walking across rolling landscape of fields.

    One intermediate town of Itero de la Vega. Because today is Spain's National Holiday, we were told every thing would be closed. In Itero, all the cafés were closed, but one brave mini-market was open and feeding pilgrims from their deli counter!

    Then we continued on to our destination of Boadilla del Camino, across one big hill and endless fields. It was sunny, about 75 degrees, but no shade The sun is intense, even in October!

    We arrived at Hotel & Albergue en El Camino for cold beers and hot showers! 20 more kilometers down!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    National Holiday & Walk to Boadilla

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Highpoints for today:
    Walk out of town with last night's full moon visible

    Mist over the town as the sun rose.

    Jamon, cheese sandwiches (actually had tuna in my ham & cheese sandwich for breakfast! It is called a "Vegetable sandwich" at the bar we bought it at. I didn't ask questions. 🙃We were told everything was going to be closed today so we weren't sure we could even get food today, so anything we found open today was a plus. (We'll report on the little box of Vino Tinto we bought at the supermercado for 1.5 euros at a later date)

    Low point for today:
    The long, sunny, no shade, stone path for the last 2 hours into our destination town.

    The part of the Camino we are on is considered hard mentally & emotionally because it is wide vistas & rolling hills of brown fields for miles at a time. It can be very monotonous. I am trying to see the beauty in its simplicity.

    What I'm grateful for today:
    Green when we see it.
    Cold Beer
    Hot shower
    Jamon y queso
    Vino tinto...maybe?    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1

    Misty Canal Walk to Fromista

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Coldest morning yet! Walking 5K along water in the Canal de Catillo probably made it feel colder. It was gorgeous as the sun rose and we took in the early morning beauty all around us.

  • Camino de Santiago

    A frosty & foggy walk to Fromista

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We had a very nice stay in Boadilla del Camino. Our Hotel runs the Albergue next door, with a group Pilgrim meal. We are with Willy from Austria,a guy from Hungary and three Bicycle Pilgrims from Brasil. Great meal.

    We started this morning around 8:05, before the sun was up, only 45F/6C. Chilly and the surrounding fields we covered in fog. The Camino eventually jiond the path besides the Canal de Castillo.

    We crossed the canal over an old lock set that had a huge drop, before entering Fromista. A coffee and croissant break here.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Villalcazar de Sirgo

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After our wonderful canal walk this morning, the afternoon walk was a let down.

    After visiting a church in Fromista, we set off out of town. The Camino became a dirt track parallel to a road.

     After 3k we entered a small town, with two route options : a flat straight , boring walk next to the road. Or a flat straight boring walk not next to a road.
    We chose option B. It led us to a small town that was basically closed. The one cafe was closed. The town did have a Jai Alai fronton. Nobody was playing.

    We then used a dirt road across the fields to re-join the main Camino route, which was the shorter walk.

    We arrived in our little town for the night, checked into our hostel and had beers/snacks. The only two cafés in town closed soon after that., Joining the rest of the town for Siesta. Not to reopen for dinner until 9 PM. Fortunately, the Albergue restaurant down the hill will open at 7:30 for a Pilgrim dinner.

    It is not clear anything in town will be open for coffee/breakfast in the morning, so we went to the mini-market for pineapple juice and a bag of mini-donuts for the morning. 6k walk to the next town tomorrow to find an open café!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Carrion de los Condes

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    A short 6k walk to the next town, as the sun came up. Clear blue skies and no fog this morning. We can see mountains off to the north.

    We have a long walk for the rest of the day, 17k to the next town. It is the longest stretch of the Camino between towns.

    We tried to get the cafe to make us two Ham and cheese Bocadillos for us to carry for lunch. We failed Spanish and got one grilled ham and cheese on white bread. We will look for a deli or small market for different sandwiches! :-)    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1

    17k to Calzadilla de la Cueza

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The long and not winding road!

    We survived the long road to our destination town, a total of 23k. The first 5k out of Carrion we're alongside the road, the worst of the Camino.

    Finally the Camino diverged out across the barren wheat fields. Mostly straight as an arrow, with a few trees. There was a food truck out in the middle of nowhere. We stopped and had fresh squeezed orange juice, and some snacks from our packs.

    We walked on until we came to a Pilgrim Rest Area/ Picnic stop. We ate our Ham and cheese Bocadillos, which Sue procured from another shop in Carrion.

    That left us with about an hour to walk. We reached our destination sometime after 3,PM.

    We cleaned up and quenched our thirst with ice cold lemonades! :-)    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    It's a Long Way to Calzadilla de la Cuez

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The most boring 17K walk I'll ever do! No shade, mostly flat, I was having hallucinations by the end.😅 Thank God there was a breeze, and it was not the height of the summer!

    2 things that broke up the 4 hour monotony-- a Pilgrim traveling by
    skateboard, and a food truck that served cold, fresh squeezed orange juice.

    Happy to be in Calzadilla de la Cueza for the night. Atleast we know there is food & drink here, unlike last night when we weren't sure...learning to take nothing for granted.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    12k through three small villages

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    A morning walk with three pilgrims we originally met outside Pamplona.. We all walked together to Notations, where they are spending the night. Sue and I have another 10k to Sahagun

    A coffee stop in Legidos attracted several local cats that all cluster around my chair!

    That town also has a Fronton!

    Next we will stop to checkout some Hobbit Holes on the way out of town! Stay tuned! :-)    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Hobbitt Houses in Moratinos?

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    No, the hobbits don't live here!

    We saw these little caves built into the hillside in the little town of Moratinos that we passed through.

    These little caves are called "bodegas," used in the past for food storage and wine-making. Moratinos is one of several hillside bodega groups visible along the Camino de Santiago trail, part of a wine culture that dates back 2,000 years to the Romans.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    More than 1/2 way to Santiago!

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We walked and uneventful 10k to the small city of Sahagun. Some where east if the city, approximately 383.5 kilometer mark we crossed the half way point of our walk.

    Later we passed through two statues claiming to be the mid-point.

    Another couple of kilometers and we walked into Sahagun, our stop for today. 22 kilometers total    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1

    Sahagun, we're halfway there!

    October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Part of the beauty of this walk is meeting other pilgrims & getting to know them. We met Russ & Laura ( from Dallas) and Laura's brother Charles (Durham) a couple of weeks ago before Pamplona. We have been running into each other every couple of days or so. Today we enjoyed their company on the first half of our walk.

    We also met the "Skateboarding Pilgrim" from yesterday again.

    The landscape of today's walk had a bit more variety too. We saw grapes growing again, although just 1 small field. We also saw more rolling hills with trees. We had a lot of clouds this afternoon, so it was not hot as we got to our destination.

    The hostel we're staying in is brand new we have a lovely private room. We ate dinner as we watched kids in the Plaza play. This little town of Sahagun has been enjoyable to explore in the couple of hours we had this afternoon.    Read more

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