Sep – Nov 2022

Camino de Santiago

A 61-day adventure by Susan and Jim's Travels & Susan Read more

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Day 22
Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 11:10 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 933 m
Spain Castillo de Burgos 42.343333, -3.70666742°20’36” N 3°42’24” W
A day off in Burgos?
October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
We attended a our first Pilgrim Mass in the Burgos Cathedral. It was a little strange, to say the least. We arrived early sat in the pews. When the priest entered, he was followed in by a groups of Pilgrims with back packs and hiking sticks. The priest stopped half way up the isle, and seemed to indicate all the Pilgrim's needed to sit in back. Most ignored him and sat in pews. Then, as the mass proceeded, a man went around, taped pilgrims on the shoulders, and had them move back. Very strange.

Next week climbed up to the Castillo de Burgos, on the highest hill. Puff, puff, someday off!

Great views to the east, we could see the ridges we climbed two days ago. To the west, views of the Meseta plateau, covered in empty wheat fields

We start on the Meseta tomorrow morning.

Croissant break now!Read more
Travelerenjoy your day off! you're lucky the weather is good .
10/9/22Reply
Traveleryes, it is a beautiful day!
10/9/22Reply
TravelerYou must be so tired!! But I think the humbling of
10/9/22Reply
TravelerThe physical body opens pathways to the Spirit of the Camino. Bien fait pélérins!!
10/9/22Reply
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Day 22
Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 6:27 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 878 m
Spain Plaza Mayor 42.343333, -3.70166742°20’36” N 3°42’6” W
El Hombre Tranquilo
October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
I am watching The Quiet Man on Spanish TV, in Spanish!

Sláinte!
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Day 22
Sunday, October 9, 2022
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 894 m
Spain Fuente de Santa María 42.341871, -3.70519142°20’31” N 3°42’19” W
2
Museo del Retablo
October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
We stopped at this Museum, which has been preserving Retablos ( Altarpieces ) and other pieces of art, from closed and abandoned churches in the Burgos. Small villages have been de-populated as young people leave the agricultural regions around here. As a result churches closed and are shuttered. This Museum started collecting art from closed churches.

The museum is housed in the closed church is San Esteban (Saint Étienne, Saint Stephen). The collection is amazing. Too many photos to post!Read more
Traveler I like the sexy women interspersed with religious figures.
10/9/22Reply
TravelerMe too! :-)
10/9/22Reply
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Day 22
Sunday, October 9, 2022
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 875 m
Spain Plaza Mayor 42.343125, -3.70099142°20’35” N 3°42’4” W
Highlights from a Sunday in Burgos
October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Starting with the Pilgrims mass in the Cathedral this morning to having a birds-eye view from the top of the Castillo to seeing how history is being preserved through the Museo del Retablo here in Burgos we have learned a lot & enjoyed our weekend here.

This afternoon the sky was blue and it was about 73 degrees. The streets were packed with families enjoying the summer- like weather. We walked from one end of the city to the other enjoying the culture and people.

We are back to our hotel early tonight. The city was hopping until about 4 AM this morning (our room has a window facing out to a main street in the city) I barely slept last night as Bugos won the soccer match last night. The city was celebrating! In bed early to start back on the Camino in the morning.Read more
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Day 23
Monday, October 10, 2022 at 8:54 AM
☁️ 10 °C
Altitude: 869 m
Spain Fuente de Santa María 42.34, -3.70666742°20’24” N 3°42’24” W
2
A very flat 11k to Tardajos
October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
We had a nice flat walk this morning , walking along the broad flat valley of the river that runs out of Burgos.

It looks like we are finally getting to the base of the Meseta plateau, and will beging a gentle climb up, after our coffee break here.Read more
Traveler Hello, we are here right now. We love to look at your posts, so we can see what will wait to us the next day. Very nice photos, Jim
10/12/22Reply
TravelerYou are catching up to us soon I think!
10/13/22Reply
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Day 23
Monday, October 10, 2022 at 9:51 AM
☁️ 12 °C
Altitude: 850 m
Spain Villacienzo 42.343333, -3.73833342°20’36” N 3°44’18” W
1
Adios Burgos!
October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
It's a cool cloudy morning, perfect for walking! We really enjoyed our weekend in the city. As we left we saw a few more interesting sites. There are so many stork nests built on the chimneys of buildings. Also lots of chestnuts on the ground around the city. I often worried I would slide on one & fall. Wish I could bring a few back home with me for Thanksgiving stuffing, but my packing heavy enough!🤗Read more
Traveler Did you bring a shell from Massachusetts?
10/10/22Reply
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Day 23
Monday, October 10, 2022 at 12:23 PM
☁️ 17 °C
Altitude: 839 m
Spain Rabé de las Calzadas 42.345, -3.8342°20’42” N 3°49’48” W
Hornillos del Camino
October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Read more
TravelerI remember well the murals and the down hill just past this village. So fun to see your Camino experiences and relive mine at the same time. 💛
10/11/22Reply
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Day 23
Monday, October 10, 2022 at 5:28 PM
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 828 m
Spain Hornillos del Camino 42.338567, -3.92419542°20’19” N 3°55’27” W
New Favorite Place, Rabe de las Calzadas
October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
I loved this little village! Not only was the village picturesque, there was a tiny church that was playing beautiful Spanish hymns as I walked in. The alter was so simple and beautiful. After saying a prayer, and as we were leaving there was a nun by the door who said a Pilgrim prayer over us and gave us a handmade necklace with a religious medal. As we walked out of town there were many murals on the sides of buildings with Bible sayings. The sayings were mostly about living in peace with others. The rest of the day I was inspired!Read more
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Day 24
Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 7:54 AM
☁️ 11 °C
Altitude: 826 m
Spain Hornillos del Camino 42.338333, -3.92542°20’18” N 3°55’30” W
8.5 kms to Cafe Fuente Sidres
October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
An early start today , as we needed to be out of the Albergue before 8 AM, So a 7:50 walk through the dark streets if town, past the church. And a long gradual climb to the Meseta. We have met Susan from Australia who walked with us all morning.

Found an Albergue and cafe open outside of of the next town for a late morning coffee.Read more
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Day 24
Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 11:21 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 862 m
Spain Hontanas 42.313333, -4.04666742°18’48” N 4°2’48” W
Hontanas to Castrojeriz
October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We walked a short way to the village of Hontonas. We stopped to look into their small church, very nice.

Continued walking, another 10k to Castrojeriz, along a beautiful valley cut through the Meseta plateau. We passed through the ruins of the Convent of San Anton. Literally through, the paved road runs right through the preserved archway!

Finally walking the final kilometers across the valley to the hillside town of Castrojeriz, our destination for today. The hilltop has castles ruins, but we have to plans to attempt the steep walk up!

Checked in to Hostel El Manzana for tonight!Read more
TravelerI had to look Manzana” up, hopefully you are eating more than an apple. Pictures please
10/11/22Reply
TravelerI did have a Basque Hard Cider, it was good. My translation of El Manzana is Apple Tree. Tonight we had a Pizza Bolognese and Veggie Paella. Sorry no pictures, we inhaled it. I will send photo of tomorrow's standard Spanish breakfast of Coffee, OJ, toast with margarine and jam!
10/11/22Reply
TravelerTwo days ago in Belorado, our host Paul made us scrambled eggs. I proposed marriage to him, but his wife veto'ed the idea! :-)
10/11/22Reply
TravelerI’m glad that you are open to the Lord’s love from any source, food substance, beverage and/or gender. Truly a real Renaissance man of our times. “a person who has wide interests and is expert in several areas.”
10/12/22Reply
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Day 24
Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 12:42 PM
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 813 m
Spain Monasterio de San Antón 42.293333, -4.09833342°17’36” N 4°5’54” W
1 2
Sunrise in Hontanas, Sunset CastroJeriz
October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
We were up & out walking before the sun rose this morning. Don't be too impressed as sunrise is at about 7:45!

We met a new friend Susan from Melbourne Austrslia who walked with us to our destination this afternoon.

We visited multiple churches. We saw amazing ruins ( Ruinas del convention de San Anton siglio XIV).

We were given 2 beers as a welcome gift when we arrived at our hostel. Andres & Sabrina from Columbia & Argentina are the new owners of the hostel we are staying in. They are young. They have good music playing in the bar & positive & welcoming energy. It feels like a nice way to end the day that we are staying here!Read more
Traveler Love this!
10/11/22Reply
Traveler Love the happy face
10/11/22Reply
Traveler Free beer!
10/12/22Reply
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Day 24
Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 3:06 PM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 808 m
Spain Iglesia de Santo Domingo 42.288333, -4.13542°17’18” N 4°8’6” W
An afternoon in Castrojeriz
October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
A few shots while walking around town, while waiting for all the shops to re-open after siesta. Every day at 2 PM everything shuts down , except bars/cafés, until 5PM.

This was important today because tomorrow, Oct 12th, is Spain's National Day. Apparently everything will be closed tomorrow, all day! So we hit the Super mercado, stocked up on food ands snacks for tomorrow's walk. Just in case, we bought a cheap Box O'Wine for tomorrow night, for survival purposes! :-)

Last visit was to a church, Collegiate de Virgen de Santa Maria del Manzana. (Virgin Mary of the Apple Tree? Help me Jeanne-Marie!!!).

The church and displays were beautiful!!!Read more
Travelergood translation just manzano apple tree manzana is the apple
10/11/22Reply
Traveler:-)
10/12/22Reply
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Day 25
Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 8:44 AM
⛅ 8 °C
Altitude: 792 m
Spain Castrogeriz 42.291667, -4.1342°17’30” N 4°7’48” W
On to Boadilla del Camino
October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
We set off today a little after sunrise. The valley was filled with fog as we walk up the hill in Castrojeriz. We were treated to the full moon hanging over the Castillo ruins at the top of the hill.

Highlight of the morning, was a friendly little white dog following us through town, who obviously wanted to be petted. I scratch him behind his ears. He loved it.

Lowlight or the morning, the dog lifted his leg and pee'ed on my hiking shoe! The little bugger ran away before I could get his photo to show to the Civil Gardia!

Crossing the valley floor, we quickly realized we had a big climb ahead! Alto de Mostelares. At the top, the sign had the elevation at 1050 meters above sea level.
After a short walk across the plateau, we descended, and the rest of the day was walking across rolling landscape of fields.

One intermediate town of Itero de la Vega. Because today is Spain's National Holiday, we were told every thing would be closed. In Itero, all the cafés were closed, but one brave mini-market was open and feeding pilgrims from their deli counter!

Then we continued on to our destination of Boadilla del Camino, across one big hill and endless fields. It was sunny, about 75 degrees, but no shade The sun is intense, even in October!

We arrived at Hotel & Albergue en El Camino for cold beers and hot showers! 20 more kilometers down!Read more
TravelerDay 25! Wow. That’s great. So that I can plan my social media events for the month. When does this Penguin Series post its closing show for the season? I do not have another traveling couple to follow their adventure and I'm going to miss it when it ends.
10/12/22Reply
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Day 25
Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 11:29 AM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 769 m
Spain Arroyo de Vallarna 42.281667, -4.25166742°16’54” N 4°15’6” W
National Holiday & Walk to Boadilla
October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Highpoints for today:
Walk out of town with last night's full moon visible

Mist over the town as the sun rose.

Jamon, cheese sandwiches (actually had tuna in my ham & cheese sandwich for breakfast! It is called a "Vegetable sandwich" at the bar we bought it at. I didn't ask questions. 🙃We were told everything was going to be closed today so we weren't sure we could even get food today, so anything we found open today was a plus. (We'll report on the little box of Vino Tinto we bought at the supermercado for 1.5 euros at a later date)

Low point for today:
The long, sunny, no shade, stone path for the last 2 hours into our destination town.

The part of the Camino we are on is considered hard mentally & emotionally because it is wide vistas & rolling hills of brown fields for miles at a time. It can be very monotonous. I am trying to see the beauty in its simplicity.

What I'm grateful for today:
Green when we see it.
Cold Beer
Hot shower
Jamon y queso
Vino tinto...maybe?Read more
TravelerVino Tinto is the correct phrasing probably because it is a specific type of Spanish Red Summer wine. you are right, i was thinking it should be vino rojo, but nope
10/12/22Reply
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Day 25
Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 6:02 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 792 m
Spain Boadilla del Camino 42.258333, -4.34666742°15’30” N 4°20’48” W
Vino Tinto, Not Bad
October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
When in a pinch...not too bad!
Travelerlol, look how far you've walked!
10/12/22Reply
TravelerHave to catch up with all your travels, so far see lots of wine!
10/12/22Reply
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Day 26
Thursday, October 13, 2022 at 8:07 AM
⛅ 7 °C
Altitude: 792 m
Spain Boadilla del Camino 42.258333, -4.34666742°15’30” N 4°20’48” W
1
Misty Canal Walk to Fromista
October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Coldest morning yet! Walking 5K along water in the Canal de Catillo probably made it feel colder. It was gorgeous as the sun rose and we took in the early morning beauty all around us.
Traveler The fog makes it looks like a painting. Beautiful
10/13/22Reply
TravelerImpressionism. Gorgeous
10/13/22Reply
TravelerLoved this walk and it looks so different in the fog.
9/19/23Reply
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Day 26
Thursday, October 13, 2022 at 8:16 AM
⛅ 6 °C
Altitude: 791 m
Spain Boadilla del Camino 42.261667, -4.3542°15’42” N 4°21’0” W
A frosty & foggy walk to Fromista
October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
We had a very nice stay in Boadilla del Camino. Our Hotel runs the Albergue next door, with a group Pilgrim meal. We are with Willy from Austria,a guy from Hungary and three Bicycle Pilgrims from Brasil. Great meal.

We started this morning around 8:05, before the sun was up, only 45F/6C. Chilly and the surrounding fields we covered in fog. The Camino eventually jiond the path besides the Canal de Castillo.

We crossed the canal over an old lock set that had a huge drop, before entering Fromista. A coffee and croissant break here.Read more
TravelerI remember walking along this canal in pouring rain. It was muddy. Good to see what a plea walk I missed. 🤣
10/13/22Reply
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Day 26
Thursday, October 13, 2022 at 10:11 AM
⛅ 9 °C
Altitude: 789 m
Spain Frómista 42.268333, -4.40333342°16’6” N 4°24’12” W
Villalcazar de Sirgo
October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
After our wonderful canal walk this morning, the afternoon walk was a let down.

After visiting a church in Fromista, we set off out of town. The Camino became a dirt track parallel to a road.

After 3k we entered a small town, with two route options : a flat straight , boring walk next to the road. Or a flat straight boring walk not next to a road.
We chose option B. It led us to a small town that was basically closed. The one cafe was closed. The town did have a Jai Alai fronton. Nobody was playing.

We then used a dirt road across the fields to re-join the main Camino route, which was the shorter walk.

We arrived in our little town for the night, checked into our hostel and had beers/snacks. The only two cafés in town closed soon after that., Joining the rest of the town for Siesta. Not to reopen for dinner until 9 PM. Fortunately, the Albergue restaurant down the hill will open at 7:30 for a Pilgrim dinner.

It is not clear anything in town will be open for coffee/breakfast in the morning, so we went to the mini-market for pineapple juice and a bag of mini-donuts for the morning. 6k walk to the next town tomorrow to find an open café!Read more
Travelerno dollar tree?
10/13/22Reply
Travelerhaha, even the supermercado had a sparse assortment of bfast items to choose from. 7:30 is late for our Pilgrim meal. after walking all day usually asleep by 9. However pretty hungry after not finding much open today! Hope it's good. usually meeting the people at the meal is a highlight.
10/13/22Reply
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Day 27
Friday, October 14, 2022 at 10:37 AM
☀️ 8 °C
Altitude: 835 m
Spain Iglesia de Santiago 42.338333, -4.60333342°20’18” N 4°36’12” W
Carrion de los Condes
October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
A short 6k walk to the next town, as the sun came up. Clear blue skies and no fog this morning. We can see mountains off to the north.

We have a long walk for the rest of the day, 17k to the next town. It is the longest stretch of the Camino between towns.

We tried to get the cafe to make us two Ham and cheese Bocadillos for us to carry for lunch. We failed Spanish and got one grilled ham and cheese on white bread. We will look for a deli or small market for different sandwiches! :-)Read more
TravelerI’m pretty sure that your Spanish is good enough to say dos cervezas por favor. Not sure what happened when ordering a sandwich. are you just better ordering alcohol?
10/14/22Reply
Traveler¡Si senor!
10/14/22Reply
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Day 27
Friday, October 14, 2022 at 12:30 PM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 829 m
Spain Arroyo de la Huelga 42.341667, -4.69333342°20’30” N 4°41’36” W
1
17k to Calzadilla de la Cueza
October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
The long and not winding road!

We survived the long road to our destination town, a total of 23k. The first 5k out of Carrion we're alongside the road, the worst of the Camino.

Finally the Camino diverged out across the barren wheat fields. Mostly straight as an arrow, with a few trees. There was a food truck out in the middle of nowhere. We stopped and had fresh squeezed orange juice, and some snacks from our packs.

We walked on until we came to a Pilgrim Rest Area/ Picnic stop. We ate our Ham and cheese Bocadillos, which Sue procured from another shop in Carrion.

That left us with about an hour to walk. We reached our destination sometime after 3,PM.

We cleaned up and quenched our thirst with ice cold lemonades! :-)Read more
Traveler Wow!!!mom& Frank xoxo
10/14/22Reply
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Day 27
Friday, October 14, 2022 at 2:59 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 846 m
Spain Arroyo Cueza de Cabañas 42.328333, -4.80166742°19’42” N 4°48’6” W
It's a Long Way to Calzadilla de la Cuez
October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
The most boring 17K walk I'll ever do! No shade, mostly flat, I was having hallucinations by the end.😅 Thank God there was a breeze, and it was not the height of the summer!

2 things that broke up the 4 hour monotony-- a Pilgrim traveling by
skateboard, and a food truck that served cold, fresh squeezed orange juice.

Happy to be in Calzadilla de la Cueza for the night. Atleast we know there is food & drink here, unlike last night when we weren't sure...learning to take nothing for granted.Read more
TravelerSkateboard, brilliant!
10/14/22Reply
TravelerWe had a great time at Mean Girls! Thank you!
10/14/22Reply
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Day 28
Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 8:45 AM
☀️ 8 °C
Altitude: 850 m
Spain Arroyo Cueza de Cabañas 42.33, -4.80833342°19’48” N 4°48’30” W
12k through three small villages
October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
A morning walk with three pilgrims we originally met outside Pamplona.. We all walked together to Notations, where they are spending the night. Sue and I have another 10k to Sahagun

A coffee stop in Legidos attracted several local cats that all cluster around my chair!

That town also has a Fronton!

Next we will stop to checkout some Hobbit Holes on the way out of town! Stay tuned! :-)Read more
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Day 28
Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:52 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 863 m
Spain Moratinos 42.361667, -4.92666742°21’42” N 4°55’36” W
Hobbitt Houses in Moratinos?
October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
No, the hobbits don't live here!

We saw these little caves built into the hillside in the little town of Moratinos that we passed through.

These little caves are called "bodegas," used in the past for food storage and wine-making. Moratinos is one of several hillside bodega groups visible along the Camino de Santiago trail, part of a wine culture that dates back 2,000 years to the Romans.Read more
TravelerI look like Gandalf sitting next to the Hobbit Hole! I wish I had a pipe to smoke!
10/15/22Reply
TravelerStart planning on building one of these in your backyard
10/15/22Reply
TravelerI love that you took pics of these, they were fascinating and I found myself also wondering what they were for
9/19/23Reply
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Day 28
Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 2:01 PM
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 834 m
Spain San Nicolás del Real Camino 42.365, -4.97833342°21’54” N 4°58’42” W
More than 1/2 way to Santiago!
October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We walked and uneventful 10k to the small city of Sahagun. Some where east if the city, approximately 383.5 kilometer mark we crossed the half way point of our walk.

Later we passed through two statues claiming to be the mid-point.

Another couple of kilometers and we walked into Sahagun, our stop for today. 22 kilometers totalRead more
TravelerCongratulations
10/15/22Reply
Travelerbravo! enhorabuena!! half way!
10/15/22Reply
TravelerThat’s a cute little town, we liked it there. About three days behind us in León. We hitched a ride with a local bread delivery truck from Mansilla de las Mulas to León this morning. Caught the Saturday market in Plaza Mayor and toured the cathedral. The best stained glass windows we have ever seen. Our hotel room overlooks plaza mayor. Tomorrow is another off day and then we head into the mountains. Not sure that I (Jim) will be able to do any more full days as the hills are getting serious. Buen camino, we miss you guys.
10/15/22Reply
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Day 28
Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 9:39 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 835 m
Spain Sahagún 42.370428, -5.02627142°22’14” N 5°1’35” W
1
Sahagun, we're halfway there!
October 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Part of the beauty of this walk is meeting other pilgrims & getting to know them. We met Russ & Laura ( from Dallas) and Laura's brother Charles (Durham) a couple of weeks ago before Pamplona. We have been running into each other every couple of days or so. Today we enjoyed their company on the first half of our walk.

We also met the "Skateboarding Pilgrim" from yesterday again.

The landscape of today's walk had a bit more variety too. We saw grapes growing again, although just 1 small field. We also saw more rolling hills with trees. We had a lot of clouds this afternoon, so it was not hot as we got to our destination.

The hostel we're staying in is brand new we have a lovely private room. We ate dinner as we watched kids in the Plaza play. This little town of Sahagun has been enjoyable to explore in the couple of hours we had this afternoon.Read more
TravelerThe murals have been amazing.
10/15/22Reply
TravelerHalfway! Wow, congrats!
10/16/22Reply
Traveler Love the idea of a skateboarding pilgrim!
10/16/22Reply
TravelerSue and Jim Congratulations !!! 😘
10/16/22Reply
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