Arrival in Nome: NWP complete

At 1445 we depart from our Shishmaref anchorage in light winds, reaching with the full main and the code 0. Originally our intention was to traverse right in the middle of the Diomede Islands, the place where Russia and the USA are within swimming distance. With the timing and the winds we have, we’d be doing the passage in darkness of the night plus it means adding a couple of hours to our trip. Jointly we decide to forgo the Diomedes and head straight to Nome.

The Bering Strait is a wild place, strong currents, wind accelerations around the mountainous shore line and drift wood. Sure enough, we have a proper collision with a trunk that shook the boat. A quick check reveals no damage and we continue. I do expect to find a dent when I will haul in about a month.

On the final miles the joy of closing in is overshadowed by dramatic radio traffic on channel 16. A rescue helicopter from Kodiak is talking to the Northwest Explorer, a fishing vessel near the island of St. Lawrence, to coordinate a rescue operation for the crew of three of a capsized boat. One person was rescued severely hypothermic, the two other sailors were found dead. The ocean up here is as merciless as it is honest.

We enter the harbor of Nome and tie up at the “South Wall” and Vanuily comes alongside once more. Larry, the very sympathetic and resourceful CBP officer, shows up and clears us in without problems. Down with the Q flag, up with the star-spangled courtesy flag - we’re in, finally allowed to go ashore again.

The Northwest Passage is completed. The logbook states 4’203 nautical miles from Nuuk to Nome, a sum of 409 hours of motoring time across the 2 engines, 2,235 liters of diesel for heating and propulsion burned, several kilos of Swiss chocolate consumed. A sail of a lifetime.

In two days Yann and Richard will fly back to Europe and I will take Hafiz into a harbor for wintering. I would like to make it to Vancouver as this means wintering in frost-free climate. If the weather doesn’t permit, there are several options in Alaska, too. But those entail frost-proofing the boat with all its various hoses, tanks, pumps, engines and systems.

I am now looking into a challenging solo crossing south. This is a deliberate choice, not a necessity or lack of options. I am up for it.Read more