• Sunday and the storks arrived

    12 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Sunday today so a quick walk to buy a newspaper. There used be one place where I could get English papers but it seems to be closed so I have to put up with the diario de jerez.

    Then a stroll around the cathedral, which is pleasant, without being grossly OTT as many Spanish churches are. And in late evening a football match at my favourite local team, xerez deportivo. When we first came here they were newly formed and played in the bottom local league, but since then they have been promoted five times, and now playing in league 2, the fourth level of Spanish football. But now they are fixed in the relegation zone so not so good! They scored in 20 seconds, and held out till the 75th minute, and ended up 1 -1, which doesn't really help much.

    While I was watching the game, the sky was filled with storks flying in from Africa, there must have been thousands of them!
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  • Pete gone. Armstrongs in spain.

    11 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We put Pete in a taxi yesterday to go to the airport, and he emailed us last night to say he was home again in Zurich. He seemed to really enjoy being here, even though the weather was poor.

    Today Natalie, Andy, finlay and Emily flew from Luton to Malaga, picked up a hire car and drove to granada. They will stay there till Tuesday and then drive across Andulucia to us. At least the weather is now warm and sunny again.Читать далее

  • Visit the castle

    9 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Pete wanted to visit the castle this morning so we walked across town to it, its only maybe 20 minutes walk . Its not much of a castle really but it's one of my favourite places to wander round. It's just the walls of the moorish city and some towers, with a small mosque and Arab bathhouse but its quiet and peaceful in the sunshine, and surrounded by a park full of orange trees.Читать далее

  • Watching the rain!

    7 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Yes - rain!

    We went this morning to go a electronics shop to get a charger lead for Petes laptop. It turns out the Swiss plugs are completely different to anyone else, not like standard European ones or UK ones. Luckily the first shop we tried had the exact one , so we could go to chorros and chocolate breakfast happy. Then the clouds started to build up and this afternoon we had thunder and lightning and heavy rain. I hope it stops soon, we are supposed to be going out to eat tonight. It should rain all day tomorrow too, and clear up Thursday and be nice again after that.Читать далее

  • Sunday - church and football

    5 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Gentle day today. Lynette went to mass in the cathedral and coming out there was a procession and brass band. I went to see jerez third football club play a local Derby (which ended up 1-1). Not great football but sitting in the sun, blue sky, why not ! We met up for lunch in the sun in one of the little squares in the centre.Читать далее

  • First few days

    4 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    It's been a busy first few days. As the temperature is still low until about 11.00am we have spent the mornings shopping to stock up on all the essentials including visits to the great market. The supermarket we used most last year - just 5 mins away has closed down, bought by Carrefour, so we have been to the other 3 all 10 minutes away. None is perfect. It is irritating to have to go to different ones depending on what you need. However, these are minor irritations as we have, so far, been able to spend each afternoon on our beautiful terrace in the sun. We are so lucky to be able to relax in this lovely place. For some reason we are also sleeping incredibly well - don't know why.

    This evening we went to one of our favourite restaurants that we have been to every year we have been here - Almacen. It is in an ancient grocers shop with beautiful carved beams and tiles. The food is pretty good too and tonight we couldn't finish what we ordered. Must try not to be tempted to order too much.
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  • Friday

    3 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Another trip to the market to get fish for dinner tonight. We bought a big slice of marrajo (mako shark) and another of tuna. This coast is famous for its tuna, every year since time memorial the tuna have come out of the med and up along the coast of cadiz. The towns on the coast show this in their names ... Zahara de los atunes, Barbara de Los atunes ...

    Afternoon in the sun .... I don't know how long that will last - Pete is coming for a few days next week from Zurich and at the moment the forecast is cloudy and showers.
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  • Sunshine!

    2 февраля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Yesterday we came via Barcelona. There don't seem to be any direct flight to jerez anymore and in the past we've come via madrid but madrid airport is huge and busy and chaotic - the London flights come in at one end of a very long terminal and the jerez ones at the very far other end so we always seemed to running through the crowds to get from one to the other. This time we flew with vueling and their terminal at Barcelona is new, quiet and very efficient. Much better! Even the bags turned up without going on their own holiday in Barcelona.

    Today is sunny and warm, 17 degrees during the day, although a chilly 1 or 2 degrees at night. Breakfast was churros and chocolate, followed by a trip to the shops and round the market - as fascinating as usual. Lunch in the sun in our local square.
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  • Home tomorrow

    13 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Although it's just been a few days, we have really liked madeira and funchal. It's a small and very pleasant city, with good food and wine, and even though its full of tourists and cruise ships, the people seem genuinely pleased and helpful. We would come back again anytime, maybe to try going to another part of the island.Читать далее

  • Half day trip

    13 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we had booked a half day sightseeing trip with a local company, so they picked us up at 8.15 in a land rover, and then another texan couple from the cruise ship that arrived this morning. After driving out of funchal and through some local villages we went to the top of the tallest cliff on the island. As well as incredible views it also had a glass floored viewing platform jutting out of the top of the cliff, so you can stand out from the cliff and look down through the glass.

    After the cliff, a drive up the mountains through the forest on forest tracks (good land rover!) To look down into a secret hidden valley, surrounded by jagged mountains, where the nuns, women and children would be taken to hide from pirates.

    Then through more mountain passes and through steep terraces covered in grape vines, vegetables and fruit trees, to end up back at small fishing port to have a drink before heading home.

    A really good trip and having seen the tiny mountain roads, one that we would have never attempted on our own.
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  • Thoughts on Madeira

    12 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Cruise ships
    Virtually every day one or two cruise ships docks in the port. Yesterday one of them was a huge 4500 passenger Carnival line cruise mostly full of Americans. The Blandys wine lodge where we did our tasting tours early evening had taken 800 cruise ship passengers around in the morning. Consequently most mornings the town is full of cruise ship tourists and many of the shops (but not restaurants as the ships are full board) are geared to serving them. And the tourist season lasts all year. Despite this the locals seem to remain friendly, if a little persistent in the sales pitch, and the have retained much local culture.
    Weather
    As the plane arrived there was a short shower which thankfully had passed by the time we reached the hotel. The afternoon was a mix of cloud and long spells of sunshine. Yesterday was mostly sunny. Throughout the temperature had remained steady between 24 C during the day and about 19C at night . We have been able to swim in the hotel pool in the afternoon and eat outdoors in the evening in short sleeves. Today was again sunny but we took the cable car up to Monte which was covered in low cloud and it drizzled off and on during the 1 hour queue for the toboggan. The joy of descending into the sunshine combined with the exhilaration of the ride was fun. The guide at the wine lodge said that this year the temperature had not exceeded 29C when the rest of Europe was getting 40c.
    Tourists
    Although nowadays Madeira claims to be suitable for all age groups - with many active experiences hiking in the mountains- the predominant demographic is still geriatric. Most seem to be German, British or Portugese and everyone speaks English. The only Portuguese we get to practice is obrigado/a - thank you, which we have to say a lot as everyone is so kind and helpful.
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  • Up (and down) the mountain

    12 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had planned to visit the botanic gardens at the top of the mountain, but the entry price was huge so we didn't bother, and went on the church that was founded by the the last emperor of the Austrian empire after the first World war, and who ended up in madiera and whose tomb is still there.

    To get back down the mountain, they have wicker carts so they toboggan you down ! It's fun, although the queues were an hour long (there was a cruise ship in), and it started to rain. Afternoon in the sun by the pool.
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  • Market and cable car

    12 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Although the central market operates every day, Saturday is the biggest day. We walked all through the fish, fruit, veggies and handicrafts. The fish in particular were interesting, different fish and even the ones we knew like sea bream were huge - deep Atlantic fish I guess. Lots of strange fruit too.

    Afterwards we got the cable car up the mountain and into the clouds.
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  • First day contd

    11 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After the cathedral we walked back, via the market which we plan to visit in the morning, and spent an hour or two in the sun, and around and in (!!) The pool, before walking back down to a preplanned visit and tasting at Blandy's, the major madiera wine company. It was really interesting and very different to what we know ,

    I'm really liking this city. Its quite small, but despite being rather threadbare, it works really well and is very friendly.
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  • First day in Funchal

    11 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This morning we walked down to the ,rather unimpressive, Fort in the city, and all along the sea front. Its not a big city so it doesn't take long to get anywhere. On the way we passed the local remembrance day event and stopped to pay our respects, before continuing up to the main square, a major building on the square is the jesuit Church which we hadn't planned to go in, but in fact the interior is spectacular with paintings and frescoes. Then on to one of the beautiful gardens in the city full of trees, and then to the cathedral. This very plain on the outside but nicely decorated jnsude.Читать далее

  • Arrive in Funchal

    10 ноября 2022 г., Португалия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    All the travel worked really well so we arrived in time to check in to the hotel and walk just down the hill to a cafe looking out over the bay. The food was excellent and we got our first glasses of Madiera. I'm sure there will lots more! The weather has been very warm today, but mostly cloudy with short spells of sunshine.

    Funchal was clearly well off in the past, but is now quite run down. Rather like Jerez - very elegant buildings but which are now decaying, or in ruins.
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  • Castro de Barona

    22 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Three quarters of an hour drive south of santiago is an iron age settlement right on the coast on a tiny headland near Cape finisterre. It took ages to scramble down the rocky cliff paths but was a magnificent site when we got there. It consists of many round hut bases and walls, separated by paths and deep defensive ditches cut right into the rock, dating from 1st century BC and abandoned in the 1st century AD.

    Alba had recommended a restaurant nearby, run by a friend of hers, as all restaurants in Galicia seem to be, and lunch there was wonderful, perfect for our last meal, with scallops and tiny small squid that were out of this world. This is certainly the coast for anyone who loves seafood.
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  • The end of the road . . .

    21 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    . . . But not our trip!

    In 44 AD St James (santiago) was martyred in Palestine. 800 years later a monk found a tomb in the woods in Spain and decided it was the tomb of the saint. It was convenient- he could help them in their battles against the moors. So a cathedral was built and became a centre for pilgrimage. Today thousands of people every year come to worship. Traditionally on foot, donkey or horseback, along several routes, all ending in santiago de compostela. There are long routes starting in France, the pyrenees, or from southern Spain and Portugal, or across Spain from the east or from Madrid. The shortest route is the English route, as English pilgrims arrived by sea at A Coruna, then walk. Even though its the shortest route, its still a long hard walk, and the mountains in the way don't help! Everywhere on our trip we've come across pilgrims walking, singly, in pairs, or in organised parties. We are in awe of them, but it does mean that the city is packed full, even this late in the year.

    The legend has it the boat carrying the saints remains sank off the coast near here but all the occupants survived, and were covered with scallop shells, so the scallop is the symbol of the Saint and it is used all along the camino to show the way.
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  • On to Santiago

    20 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Last night we ate out in A Coruna and had a fantastic meal of octopus and zamburinas, small scallops in a garlic and herb sauce. They were wonderful! And for lunch today more octopus (its the speciality around here) and clams, and sardines and peppers on toast.

    Then on to Santiago de Compostela, which is our last stop.
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  • A coruna

    19 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    For breakfast this morning we went out to have churros and chocolate in a place recommended by Alba, who said it was the best in coruna. It was better than the usual ones, but still not as good as the freshly made churros we get in Jerez. After that a wander around - the city has a nice friendly feel to it, and we liked it a lot. The main square is very open and surrounded by arcades and cafes. Later we found a statue of a woman who led the townspeople to drive off an attack by the nasty English buccaneer Francis drake.

    After watching the funeral on TV, and seeing Andy marching to escort some dignitaries, we had another walk to the fort in the harbour, and on to a small garden in which is a statue of an English soldier who led a rearguard action in the peninsular war against napoleon, to allow the main English army to escape on boats in coruna. A kind of early Dunkirk. He had his head blown off by a cannonball, and is venerated as a saint! The garden was closed of course!
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  • On to A Coruña

    18 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    When we woke this morning we were enveloped in thick fog (our hotel room is on the 6th floor) and when we went out at 11.00 it was still chilly. Our last visit in Lugo was to see some Roman mosaics under a shoe shop and although small and dimly lit it was worth seeing.

    By the time we arrived in A Coruña the sun was shining and we sat on the beach for a bit, followed by a delicious seafood lunch in a traditional bodega in which were several football fans of the local team anticipating their home match this evening.

    We then got the keys to our new apartment and moved in. One of the more stressful and time consuming aspects of this trip has been moving between places, particularly the apartments where you might have to do online check-in, pick up keys and wait for it to be cleaned. In hindsight we should have stayed longer in fewer places - it would have been more relaxing.
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  • Lugo

    17 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A quiet day today after the exertions of yesterday. A 90 minute drive to Lugo followed by a stroll around the city. It was a big roman settlement and the old part of the city is still surrounded by the roman walls, which are huge, big enough to drive a chariot along the top. There are also tiny bits of roman stuff around but nothing worth bothering about. There are some small mosaics under a shoe shop that we will look at tomorrow.

    Lugo is the first place on our trip that is in Galicia, and seeing Galicia was one on the reasons for trip, because of Alba. So we started in cantabria, then asturias, then Leon, and now Galicia. So having been in the basque country, and castille, in our last road trip a few years ago, we have covered all of northern Spain, except for the north of catalonia.
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  • Molinaseca 2

    16 сентября 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    On the way back from the roman mine we found a winery and bodega right next door to our hotel - it would have been rude not go in! It's harvest time and they gave us a tour showing us the grapes being crushed and the juice going into the fermention vats. This district is Beirzo and grows vines up the mountain sides. Its been mostly ordinary wine for every day drinking, but some producers are now making a wine with much more quality- we've even bought some before now in the UK.

    We bought two bottles - don't know what they are like yet!
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