Laianai Forest

So, what's this Ngorongoro about? I always classified it as "one of those touristic things which one might visit but which is not necessary to be visited". Hmm. Failed. Actually, Franziska and I agree that it is indeed a piece of damn wonderful landscape! But, not only the crater itself. It is more the whole crater highland region which fascinates us! After our breakfast, we keep driving on a ridge road with steep slopes to both sides behind dense, moist and juicily dripping ticket. Are there any man-eating animals around? We have to leave the car a few times to assure ourselves 😉.

The crowded east viewpoint opens a gap for gorgeous views into Ngorongoro crater with the low morning sun. We spend a whole lot of time here, spotting elephants, zebras, buffalo and rhinos far away with our binoculars. Unnoticed, we are being watched by a chameleon from the bush directly in front of us. Many Tanzanians come here with their families. We hand over our binoculars multiple times and enjoy the scenery and the chats.

The moment we want to continue, a ranger appears and asks for our permit. Remember? We do not have one, haha! Continuing on the ridge to Empakaai crater? Not possible. We are friendlily asked to descend to the gate first. Shit. A bunch of valuable time we loose down there in endless discussions because the Tanzanian Revenue Authority (TRA) latterly decided to charge 150 $ instead of 40 $ per day for my Toyota. The actual cost depends on the tare weight of my car which has never been checked precisely on my other visits to national parks during the previous years. Just until now, where my car suddenly pops up in some kind of national registration database. This is what you call digitalisation. There is no room for discussions. Everybody stays professional and we have to pay. And we have to drop our fire wood from my roof rack as well.

Holding the day permit in our hands, we continue up again and want to head in direction to Empakaai crater on the lesser frequented but beautiful ridge road. We do not manage to arrive there within our time slot but are inspired also by Olmoti crater and the soft slopes of the depression between Olmoti and Empakaai. It would be really great to return here for some days of hiking!Read more