Circumnavigating Lesotho

A 25-day adventure by Jill Read more

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Day 10
Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 5:47 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 1,469 m
South Africa Hobhouse -29.53009, 27.1406929°31’48” S 27°8’26” E
Hobhouse Day 2 cont.
January 25, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We walked down to the bridge where we'd stopped yesterday. We investigated a rushing water sound at the bridge that neither of us noticed yesterday - there was a weir and a small waterfall on the other side of the bridge 🤔
There were also some pretty gazania-type flowers that were open in the sunshine.
So those are the pics for now.Read more
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Day 11
Thursday, January 26, 2017 at 8:22 PM
🌙 18 °C
Altitude: 1,830 m
South Africa Carlisle’s Hoek -30.79651, 27.9652730°47’47” S 27°57’55” E
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Hobhouse to Rhodes
January 26, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
Today was a big adventure: We left Hobhouse about 7:30 and I drove the first bit. The road was good and there was little traffic. It took us an hour and a half to get almost to Sterkspruit - half-way to Rhodes.
Then we could either take the longer road via Barkly East or the scenic route along the Lesotho border.
We bravely and enthusiastically chose the latter.
It was indeed scenic - stunningly so! - and we made it to the top of the world a second time (2186 m).
But the road was revolting! It was serious 4x4 driving all the way to Rhodes - fun, but exhausting 😰
Here is some idea of why it took us another 6 hours to get to Rhodes.Read more
TravelerVery cool
1/27/17Reply
Traveler The road was narrow and rocky and washed away in places...
1/28/17Reply
Traveler Where we came from. Doesn't look nearly as awesome in the picture 😫
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Day 11
Thursday, January 26, 2017
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 1,830 m
South Africa Carlisle’s Hoek -30.79639, 27.9653330°47’47” S 27°57’55” E
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Rhodes
January 26, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Our little house on the corner of Church and Vorster streets in Rhodes dates from about the 1940's.
It is called Kleine Schatz (Little Treasure) and
here are some pics to give you the idea:
Front stoep view; back door with Juanita squeezed into the car port); sitting room; purple sideboard (the colour scheme is purple, orange, pink, whatever...); red hot pokers in the garden and the four-poster bed (my best!).Read more
Traveler Kleine Schat from Vorster St with tiny front stoep.
1/28/17Reply
Traveler The back door and car port of Kleine Schat.
1/28/17Reply
Traveler Old time lounge at Kleine Schat.
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Day 12
Friday, January 27, 2017 at 6:00 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 1,829 m
South Africa Carlisle’s Hoek -30.79673, 27.9650930°47’48” S 27°57’54” E
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Rhodes Day 1
January 27, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
It was a bit overcast and cool this morning, but we needed to research petrol and Coca Cola purchases. We expected Rhodes to be better equipped than Hobhouse, but it isn't. Petrol can be bought by the 10l can from one of the residents and we never did find large bottles of Coke.
Haven't tried the Spaza shop yet - they're bound to have it 😉
We did some birding and admired the scenery and took photos.
Rhodes is much more prosperous than Hobhouse but still has its share of derelict houses. Guess it comes to life with its 'Feeste".
Pictures: Down by the riverside (the Bell river); the hill climbing out of the river - oh to be 50 years younger! The Rhodes Hotel is for sale: it's a beautiful Victorian building but will need lots of $$$$ to fix 😟Read more
Traveler The Bell River - quite full!
1/28/17Reply
Traveler I really had an urge to chamber up this stream - about 50 years ago...
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Traveler The Victoria Hotel. It must have been beautiful - now neglected 😕
1/28/17Reply
Traveler Front entrance to the Victoria Hotel.
1/28/17Reply
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Day 12
Friday, January 27, 2017 at 6:46 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 1,830 m
South Africa Carlisle’s Hoek -30.79649, 27.9655530°47’47” S 27°57’56” E
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Rhodes Day 1 pm
January 27, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We went to the Rubicon Restaurant for lunch: it was a bit of a disappointment - burgers or boboti was the choice, and no Coke Light 🙄
POps was feeling poorly today so this afternoon I walked up the road where a small stream is smothered by an exotic forest. There was some fascination but it was pretty awful 😕
Then there was a big storm and a beautiful rainbow!Read more
Traveler Mostly huge cedar trees 😐
1/28/17Reply
Traveler Footbridge over the stream
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Traveler Kleine Schat on the right - looking east on Vorster St.
1/28/17Reply
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Day 13
Saturday, January 28, 2017 at 8:18 PM
🌙 15 °C
Altitude: 1,830 m
South Africa Carlisle’s Hoek -30.79629, 27.9655630°47’47” S 27°57’56” E
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Rhodes Day 2
January 28, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
It was a beautiful morning! And it was wash day. Lucky for us there is a washing machine in the house and a long washing line outside.
After all the hard work we took a walk around the village.
And took pictures.
At the Clay Cafe the lady (Irene) offered us coffee, so we said we'd come this afternoon as it was almost lunch time.
So after lunch ( and a sleep) we went for coffee and tea and a chat. Irene told us that there were actually only 21 white residents and 750 black residents in Rhodes. So that explains why there is nothing here ☺
These are pics we took this morning...Read more
Traveler Wild flowers in the garden.
1/28/17Reply
Traveler The Dutch Reformed church in Rhodes. The story goes that a Scots Presbyterian Dominee held services for the settlers, alternating English and Dutch services. After the Anglo-Boer war he was so incensed by the British treatment of Boers in the concentration camps that he refused to hold English services ever again.
1/28/17Reply
Traveler A ruin, you would think...
1/28/17Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 8:20 AM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 2,041 m
South Africa Bowden -30.750376, 28.17797530°45’1” S 28°10’41” E
Mountain flowers
January 29, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We were told the wild flowers in the mountains would be good - and they were. Here are a few samples.
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Day 14
Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 10:03 AM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 1,886 m
South Africa Elands Heights -30.78051, 28.22430°46’50” S 28°13’26” E
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Rhodes to Kokstad
January 29, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Another day of adventure and climbing to the Top of the World for the 3rd time. We were told the road to Mount Fletcher beyond Naude's Nek was fine, and it was - at least it was better than the road over Naude's Nek!
So lots of 4x4-ing and an excellent birding day (a pair of blue cranes with 2 chicks and a pair of secretary birds at the same spot) later we arrived at Kokstad for an overnight stay. We press on to Oribi Gorge tomorrow.Read more
Traveler Juanita at the Top of the World 3 (2000 and quite a lot of metres)
1/29/17Reply
Traveler The 4x4 route
1/29/17Reply
Traveler Mountain streams were plentiful and full!
1/29/17Reply
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Day 14
Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 4:12 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 1,333 m
South Africa Kokstad -30.543856, 29.41733830°32’38” S 29°25’2” E
Kokstad
January 29, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We spent the night at Lindela House, a lovely Victorian house. Breakfast in the fancy dining room, and POps found the bookshelf!
It was not far to Oribi Gorge, so we did some shopping at Pick 'n' Pay in the Rosewood Square shopping centre. (Here and several other places in the E Cape the toilets were R2.00 pay - but they were good and clean.)
Then we set off for the lower regions...Read more
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Day 15
Monday, January 30, 2017 at 10:27 AM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 657 m
South Africa Banginyama -30.66014, 30.0151530°39’37” S 30°0’55” E
Hotter and Hotter...
January 30, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We have dropped from the Eastern Cape Highlands to the KZN Lowlands - Just past Harding and about 800 m altitude.
The last of the East Griqualand hills; the Ingeli Natural Forest; a bluegum and pine plantation and sugar cane fields.Read more
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Day 15
Monday, January 30, 2017 at 3:37 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 426 m
South Africa Baboons Castle -30.66052, 30.3201630°39’38” S 30°19’13” E
Oribi Gorge
January 30, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We drove through the Gorge to get to Beechwood Cottage at the top near the Oribi Gorge Hotel. It's hot and humid - we have a fan going flat out 😓
The Gorge is lovely, choc-a-block with birds we could hear but not see. We identified 2 I think... and no Narina Trogon.
BUT just before we got to our turnoff there was a little vlei - with a pair of grey crowned cranes and a chick; and a pair of fan-tailed widow birds. Cool.
Our accommodations are very comfortable and we feel our bird list will benefit very well in the next few days.Read more
Michele TarbotonLooks as though you're having fun. Enjoy the gorge and don't get lost while searching for that Narina Trogon like we did. :-)
1/30/17Reply
Michele TarbotonWhat's the bird list up to?
1/30/17Reply
TravelerI think about 86. Sometimes we wish we were decent birders 😊
1/30/17Reply
TravelerGlad you're on board!
1/30/17Reply
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Day 16
Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 420 m
South Africa Baboons Castle -30.6611, 30.3207830°39’40” S 30°19’15” E
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Oribi Gorge Day 1
January 31, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
This morning dawned cloudy and misty. It must have rained quite heavily during the night but we missed it! We were up at sparrows and into the Gorge by 06:30. As expected our birding list grew quite a bit - a third long-crested eagle and a trumpeter hornbill ( heard not seen) Were specials. We took pictures but the light was VERY bad
Perhaps it will be better tomorrow.
Late afternoon we drove the full circle clockwise - short drive (11 km) to the N2 past a huge quarry and its accompanying cements making factory, back along the N2 towards Paddock, and down the Gorge again as we did yesterday. Light was still bad, so I took no more pictures - but we did see a purple-crested turaco fly into a tree. We couldn't stop 'cos at the crucial moment there was an oncoming car and no place to pull off the road!Read more
Traveler Mist over Oribi Gorge
2/2/17Reply
Traveler The road into the Gorge
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Traveler Pete (who's seen a Narina Trogon in Oribi Gorge) said that the cool birds sit on the road markers. There were no birds, Trogon or otherwise, on the markers we searched.
2/2/17Reply
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Day 17
Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 8:00 AM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 423 m
South Africa Ugu District Municipality -30.651, 30.3051830°39’4” S 30°18’19” E
Oribi Gorge Day 2
February 1, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
The weather was better this morning, so after breakfast we set off up the road to Lake Eland Game Reserve 16 km away (8 km from the Gorge). It seems to be mostly a place for adventure seekers: 18 zip lines (2 1/2 hours of it we were told); mountain bike and 4x4 paths and hiking trails. The country is at the top of the Gorge with some viewing points into the Gorge.
The roads are really 2x4 or 4x4 stuff anyway - up and down and round and round the hills. There's a large lake at the end which obviously gives its name to the place.
We saw blue wildebeest and impala and blesbok and waterbuck, several giraffe and even kudu. Birds were also plentiful - a pair of purple-crested turaco but no Narina Trogon. Not the right habitat really.
By the time we got back to the Reception it was lunch time, so we had lamb curry in the restaurant. It was very good.Read more
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Day 17
Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 4:00 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 424 m
South Africa Ugu District Municipality -30.65103, 30.3050830°39’4” S 30°18’18” E
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Oribi Gorge Day 2 pm
February 1, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
About 4 pm we decide to have one more search for that elusive bird. The Gorge was great again but there was no Trogon 😣.
The sky was fairly clear in the evening so I tried (not very successfully) to get a picture of Venus and the crescent moon.Read more
Traveler A stream in the picnic area which flows into the Mzimkulwana which formed the Oribi Gorge.
2/4/17Reply
Traveler Searching for that Trogon!!
2/4/17Reply
Traveler African flame tree at the gate to Beechwood Cottage.
2/4/17Reply
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Day 18
Thursday, February 2, 2017 at 10:54 AM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 1,518 m
South Africa Mzimkulwana -29.75285, 29.4289429°45’10” S 29°25’44” E
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Oribi Gorge to Underberg
February 2, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
We left Beechwood Cottage and said goodbye to their myriad dogs at 07h30. We're getting better and better!
POps drove the first bit to Kokstad while I clicked away with my phone - not very successfully at 100 kph...
There was a looong Stop/Go just past Harding which took 30 mins to negotiate. Then we went back to Pick 'n' Pay in Kokstad to replenish stores. Left Kokstad about 10h30.
Then we started entering the mountains and the Ukahlamba (? Barrier of Spears) was very obvious. Never seen it from this angle before!
(I was driving so couldn't take pictures 😐).
Of course we got to The Old Hatchery at 12 - Just in time for lunch. Lamb shank and Rainbow trout - delicious.
This is really a fishing spot with self-catering cabins. The cabin is just a box but is very well designed so there seems to be lots of space.
It has rained on and off all afternoon so we've really done nothing except record a few birds.
Tomorrow is the Big Trek with a bird guide up Sani Pass.
Watch this space!Read more
Traveler The cement factory. The huge scar in the mountain is behind and to the left. I was unable to get a good pic at 60 kph...
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Traveler Not as bad as it looks. Traffic was just coming through our end of a long Stop/Go.
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Traveler The most boring job in the world. When the queue is so long you don't even have to wave your flag.
2/4/17Reply
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Day 19
Friday, February 3, 2017 at 6:00 AM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 2,880 m
Lesotho Mateanong Community -29.585077, 29.28888629°35’6” S 29°17’20” E
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Underberg Day 1: Sani Pass UP
February 3, 2017 in Lesotho ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Stuart McLean, our guide for the day, arrived sharp at 06h00 to pick us up in his Toyota Land Cruiser RV (nice car!). We piled our warm gear, walking sticks and munchies into his car and set off.
It was cloudy and as we drove up the mountain we entered the mist. This meant no good mountain views this side of the Sani Pass 😞
Of course we had to stop at the top for the obligatory photo but since we hadn't cycled up (which with the road condition should be impossible) we didn't need to drink lots of beer.
It was too darn cold anyway 🌬☁Read more
Traveler Below the mist.
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Traveler View at the top...
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Traveler Now we're above the mist/cloud!
2/4/17Reply
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Day 19
Friday, February 3, 2017 at 9:00 AM
⛅ 5 °C
Altitude: 2,913 m
Lesotho Thabana Ntlenyana -29.548064, 29.21875329°32’53” S 29°13’8” E
Underberg Day 1: Lesotho
February 3, 2017 in Lesotho ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C
On the other side of the Pass it was clear although still very cloudy. Stuart stopped at all the good places to show us Drakensberg siskin, dark-capped yellow warbler, mountain wheatear, and even Cape vultures later in the day. We must have travelled about 30 km into Lesotho before turning around at about lunch time.
Birding was terrific with a proper birder to point everything out and the scenery was again stunning.
The Lesotho side of the Pass is tarred so much easier to negotiate.Read more
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Day 19
Friday, February 3, 2017 at 1:00 PM
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 2,772 m
Lesotho Hodgson’s Peaks -29.553715, 29.22977429°33’13” S 29°13’47” E
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Underberg Day 1: Lesotho mountain flower
February 3, 2017 in Lesotho ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
The wild flowers on the mountain scenery were very pretty. Here are some to admire.
Traveler Wild poppy grew everywhere around the new road. Stuart said it's a pioneer species which explained it.
2/4/17Reply
Traveler Here's a whole plant...
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Traveler This is a Lesotho fairy garden.
2/4/17Reply
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Day 19
Friday, February 3, 2017 at 3:00 PM
⛅ 29 °C
Altitude: 2,244 m
South Africa The Twelve Apostles -29.59803, 29.3120429°35’53” S 29°18’43” E
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Underberg Day1: Sani Pass DOWN
February 3, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
What goes up has to come down and so we had to descend the RSA side of Sani Pass. We stopped again at the top for a comfort break and to take pictures of the cloud hanging like a white cloth over the valley.
Again we saw nothing but the lights of the car in front of us until we came out below the cloud so we have no idea what it looks like except in very small patches.
Stuart then took us on a dirt road around Himeville/Underberg to show us blue cranes (2) and grey crowned cranes (73) which was cool.
Back at The Old Hatchery at about 5 we bought Stuart a Coke and waved him goodbye. It was an excellent birding day and I learned loads about how to be a proper birder 🐦🐦Read more
Traveler We found Guerney's sugarbird in the proteas - a lifer.
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Traveler Switchbacks at the top of Sani Pass.
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Traveler Follow dat car!
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Day 20
Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 9:00 AM
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 1,625 m
South Africa Garden Castle -29.85502, 29.2978629°51’18” S 29°17’52” E
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Underberg Day 2
February 4, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After yesterday's adventure today was looking quite tame, which is not a bad thing. We left The Old Hatchery peacefully after breakfast and turned right on the Drakensberg Gardens road instead of left to Underberg. It was cloudy and cool, with some good pictures of the mountains and wild flowers. The road ends at Drakensberg Gardens Lodge where they wanted us to pay R25 each just to go through the gate before ever we could get a cup of tea or anything. So we skipped and turned around.
We stopped at the Eland's Rest Convenience Store a couple of km back, and sat on their little stoep eating Magnum ice creams. Then we drove past the Old Hatchery to the Underberg Cheesery. Unfortunately they didn't offer a tour or anything, but we could see a small cheese storage room (through a window) and could taste and then buy the cheese we liked. Which we did.Read more
Traveler From the south it really ;looks like the Barrier of Spears - Ukahlamba
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Traveler Panorama of Ukahlamba
2/5/17Reply
Traveler Elands Rest Convenience Store
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Day 20
Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 3:00 PM
🌙 20 °C
Altitude: 1,487 m
South Africa Costmore -29.73236, 29.5591729°43’56” S 29°33’33” E
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Underberg Day 2 pm
February 4, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
We had a bigger adventure in the afternoon.
Decided to find the road we went on with Stuart yesterday out of Himeville. This was great to start with - the white storks and bald ibis were still in the same place. Stuart had told us that if we continued straight the gravel road would eventually intersect the Underberg-Howick road (which we will take tomorrow); alternately, if we turned right on the D8 we would get back to Himeville. So of course we took the D8 'cos that would be shorter to the tar.
Wrong!
We had to make a decision at a fork and went careering off on a not very good road all over the country (or so it felt). Did see another long-crested eagle and what we reckon was a common buzzard (steppe buzzard), and eventually intersected the Howick-Underberg road.
Since we had no idea where we were, we turned left and set off for Howick. Fortunately we realised quite quickly that we were going in the wrong direction, and eventually made it home.
(And it rained and there were flooded fields and rivers running across the road too.)Read more
Traveler There were dahlias growing wild
2/5/17Reply
Traveler The white dots may be white storks
2/5/17Reply
Traveler The light was quite nice :-)
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Day 21
Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 10:59 AM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 1,063 m
South Africa Dargle Stream -29.493272, 30.17550429°29’36” S 30°10’32” E
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It rained and it rained and it rained...
February 5, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Of course we woke at 06h00 - and we had arranged for our stuff to be portered back to the car at 08h00 - so we were ready early!!
In the end we left The Old Hatchery just after 8.
And it was cloudy and rainy all the way to Ladysmith.
There was a turnoff to Marutswa Forest so we had a look. Perhaps it's not open on Sundays. Trails laid out, but empty office. Not for the foot-hearted or decrepit, so we left. Had to negotiate goats.
We had a coffee break at Howick after checking the Falls (which were not very full).
By the time we got to Ladysmith it was pouring! We had Sunday buffet lunch at the Royal Hotel for auld lang syne (we celebrated Bill's 60th there in 2003 with Peter and Merryn Brunt).
The rain stopped for us to get to the car but was pouring again when we reached Naunton's Guest House about 11 km out on the Newcastle road.
The rest of the day was spent sleeping and watching the rain. And reading the Sunday Crimes.Read more
Traveler The weather
2/6/17Reply
Traveler Looks nice but seems unused...
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Traveler The Forest and trails
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Day 22
Monday, February 6, 2017 at 8:00 AM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 1,071 m
South Africa Limit Hill -28.52167, 29.81528°31’18” S 29°48’54” E
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Naunton Guest House, Ladysmith
February 6, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Naunton's was nice. The room was comfortable with a big window on a rather lovely garden.
The big excitement was this morning with lots of birds in the garden even in the rain. There was a pair of familiar chats desperately trying to feed a red-crested cuckoo chick at least 3 times their size!Read more
Traveler Lunch at the Royal Hotel, Ladysmith
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Traveler Knowles in Howick is no more 😐
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Traveler The garden at Naunton Guest House
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Day 22
Monday, February 6, 2017 at 11:59 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 1,740 m
South Africa Newcastle -27.65346, 29.6342627°39’12” S 29°38’3” E
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Ladysmith to Memel
February 6, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
We were a bit lazier today as we didn't have far to go. After all the excitement of baby cuckoos we had breakfast in Naunton's dining room (R100 each - ouch!) and then packed up the car in the rain. Yes, it was still raining.
Decided to do a bit of shopping at Newcastle as it was still too early to get to Memel. The Newcastle Mall is new since we lived there and is much bigger than the Modimall (it has Checkers AND Pick 'n' Pay). So we provisioned ourselves for a few days at Pick 'n' Pay.
We called Schalk and arranged to meet him for lunch at the Memel pub, then set off over yet another mountain pass - Botha's Pass. Of course it's tarred and mild compared with some we've recently experienced 😊
Steak, egg and chips for lunch and it was good to meet up with Schalk again. Turned out it was Rita Bodde's birthday so Schalk invited us also for coffee at Rita's in the afternoon.
Coffee and cake turned into champagne and snacks with about 10 people at the party!Read more
Traveler It was raining when we left Ladysmith
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Traveler Newcastle Mall
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Traveler Botha's Pass
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Circumnavigating Lesotho Traveler
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Day 23
Tuesday, February 7, 2017 at 8:21 PM
🌙 17 °C
Altitude: 1,724 m
South Africa Memel -27.68597, 29.5634127°41’9” S 29°33’48” E
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Memel Day 1
February 7, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
Schalk came for breakfast and then we went birding in the Seekoeivlei. It was quite wet and there were one or two watery 4x4 spots we had to swim through.
We checked in at the first bird hide - which we all reckoned was not ideally designed; at the second hide the road was a river so we couldn't stop 😫 Juanita swam through and then we turned around and swam back - to get back to the entrance.
The official at the gate was a Mr Manganye who said the Waterberg is his home area.
We then drove all the way around the Vlei. The road wasn't too hot but the birding was great ( except for several LBJ'S 😏).
It was lunch time by the time we got home, so we had bread and cheese and then decided to take the afternoon off.
POps wasn't feeling well and both he and Schalk wanted to watch cricket and then it rained and rained so that was OK.Read more
Traveler The reeds have invaded the Vlei
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Traveler Open water is covered in algae
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Traveler We've never seen this weir flooded like this!
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