• Danielle and Co travels
set – ott 2019

Europe 2019

Ian and Danielle are heading off for 6 glorious weeks - leaving Angus in charge (questionable) of Coco, the house and himself! Leggi altro
  • The Road to Montecorto

    28 settembre 2019, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We now had our biggest climb of the ride. We stopped a couple of times before our long descent into Montecorto. Here are some snaps of the journey. Ian took a few shots while riding, which was no mean feat.Leggi altro

  • Montecorto and Embalse de Zahara

    28 settembre 2019, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Montecorto was a lovely little village, and then it was off to our final stop for lunch at Cortijo Salina’s, which is on the edge of the Grazalema National Park. The lunch, wine, company and views were all top notch. We ended up getting a lift back to Ronda with Eric and the family - since we were staying in the same street. That evening we just relaxed - Ian snoozed - and dinner was crackers, almonds and M & M’s. Early start tomorrow.Leggi altro

  • Ronda to Malaga to Lisbon

    29 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We were up very early today, as we had a driver coming to pick us up at 7:30 am to take us back to Málaga airport to catch our flight to Lisbon. We had done most of our packing the evening before, and so we didn’t have too much to do. The driver was on time, and so we loaded our bags and left. Unfortunately, a lovely etching we had purchased the day before did not get loaded in the van, and was left in the lobby of the apartment block. I did ask our host to see if it was still there, and he had the cleaning lady check, but alas it was not there.

    We made good time back to Malaga, leaving plenty of time before our flight. There was a long check-in queue that seemed to be moving at snails pace, but we finally got our bags checked in. We then went and had a bit of breakfast, before finding our way to our gate to await our boarding and departure. Malaga airport is so much busier than I had imagined it would be - people everywhere. Our boarding and flight went without a hitch, and we arrived in Lisbon pretty much on schedule. After we collected our luggage, we joined the taxi queue, which was long but moving at a good pace. We had a lovely driver who pointed out some of the sites on the way in, and even gave us some tips on best wine and where to get the best pastel de nata.

    We arrived at at our apartment and were greeted by Felipe, who carried up one of our cases to the 4th floor (about 60 steps), and then showed us around the apartment - it is in a great spot with lovely views, and is comfortable and pretty spacious. We unpacked and then decided to head out and explore the area.
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  • Sunny Lisbon - lunch at QOSQO

    29 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We decided to go for a bit of a wander and explore the local area. We wandered around a bit, and Ian was using his phone to get us down to the waterfront. We passed by a Peruvian restaurant with delicious aromas wafting our way, so we decided to have lunch before we continued exploring. The restaurant, QOSQO Cevicheria, turned out to be a good move - it was a fabulous restaurant. For drinks, Ian had a Peruvian beer and I had a Pisco Sour. For lunch we had Ceviche, Causa and Chicharr Pollo, and all were delicious. Ceviche is self explanatory, but causa is mashed potato (cold) mixed with Peruvian spices, stuffed with tuna, onion, avocado and chilli, and the chicken dish was chicken coated in a quinoa batter and deep fried and with an apple sauce. It was all so good I think we may go back again if the opportunity arises.Leggi altro

  • Sunday afternoon in Lisbon

    29 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After lunch, we headed off to explore the local area. We found the waterfront, and on the way a huge square called Praça do Comércio. We then walked along the waterfront for a bit, but decided to head back towards a huge arch - Arco da Rua Augusta - and walked along the streets with all the crowds that are out and about on a sunny Sunday afternoon. There was also a huge cruise ship docked yesterday, which obviously increases the numbers for a day or so. As we were making our way back to the apartment, we came across a group emerging from a manhole in the street. This is a tour that takes you under Lisbon, and had been recommended to me by a Portuguese driver I had in Melbourne. When I looked into doing it, I found they only run on Sundays, and we arrived too late to do it. Looked like a lot of fun, so hopefully when we come back we can make sure we are in town for a full Sunday.

    Since we had a substantial meal at lunch, we decided to buy some meat and cheese and bread from a local Store and eat in. We also had a bottle of red that was left by our hosts which needed drinking! We also stopped and picked up a small box of pastel de nata for dessert. I have access to Netflix here, so I also started watching this Spanish series called Seige with English subtitles. It is really good, so will try to fit in a few more episodes before Friday when we leave.
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  • Exploring Lisbon

    30 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We left the “Nest” just after 9 this morning and headed for the metro. Our first order of business was to purchase a 24 hour ticket, and then head to the Central Station to reserve seats on our train trips to Coimbra and Porto. This was pretty easy to do, which pleased Ian. We then wandered around the area and came to Plaça dos Restauradores, which is quite lovely - took some snaps and then headed off in search of the elusive No 28 tram, with the aim of catching it up into the Alfama district . The directions on Ian’s phone took us on a bit of a wild goose chase, and had us doubling back and changing direction several times. We finally found the tram stop (no thanks to Ian’s phone) and also found a huge line of people waiting - my estimate was that we would be waiting there for a good hour or more.

    We were approached by a tuk tuk driver named Martin, who offered to drive us up the hill, taking the same route as the tram in his electric tuk tuk for 15 Euros, so we jumped at the offer and were soon in the back of his tuk tuk (that has seat belts). It was a bumpy and fast ride, with Martin pointing out the major sites and places of interest. He also proudly told us that Portugal now had more visitors than Spain, France and Italy. Once we were dropped off, we only had about a 100 metre walk to Castelo de São Jorge (St George) entrance.

    As we made our way to the ticket office, we found ourselves at the back of a rather long queue, but this was moving very well, and was well organised, with someone directing people to the next available ticket window. Finally we were in, only to find clouds and fog across the skyline, not making for good views or good pictures. It reminded us of the view you often get of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

    We explored the castle grounds, climbed up some of the towers, and were able to get some great views of Lisbon - the fog started to lift as the day rapidly warmed up. On one side of the castle, houses and their gardens came right up to the castle wall, which meant if you lived there you would have strangers peering onto your terrace or back yard. It didn’t seem to worry the residents, as I saw a few having coffee, reading the paper or smoking.

    By the time we had finished exploring the grounds and returned to where we started the view had changed, the fog and clouds had mostly disappeared, so we were able to get a clear view of the bridge and beyond. We then left the castle, slowly meandering down the narrow streets around the castle.
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  • Lunch and Beyond

    30 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Walking down the hill from the castle, we came across a lovely terrace and a restaurant called Audrey’s to have lunch, and what a delicious lunch it turned out to be. Ian had a shashlik, that was huge, and it paired up appropriately with the huge vessel of beer he was served (he had ordered the smaller size, but the waiter made a mistake so Ian just had to drink it!). I had the Portuguese platter of cheese and meats, which was delicious. It was lovely to sit and relax and people watch, and just take the afternoon slowly.

    Once we finished lunch we continued to head down the hill through the Alfama District. Lisbon is very steep with lots of hills, in fact there are seven hills. We continued to wander, and stopped at Miradoruro Santa Luzia to admire the views over Lisbon, the wonderful tile work and the beautiful flowers. We also encountered lots of street art and tiling as we meandered down the hill.
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  • Time Out Market

    30 settembre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We continued down the hill and decided to make our way to the Time Out Market, where we bought some chocolate and some Portuguese tarts, and also rewarded ourselves for all the walking and stair climbing we had done over the day with a delicious ice cream from Santini. I had a mix of sorbets - Lemon, Raspberry, Peach and Pineapple - and they were all fabulous. Ian chose Pistachio, Peach, Pineapple and Raspberry. After that we headed home via the supermarket to pick up some supplies for dinner - we had chorizo, cheeses, tomatoes and bread. A very simple but flavoursome meal. We had a relatively early night, as we have a big day tomorrow with a tour to Sintra.Leggi altro

  • Sintra

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was our day trip to Sintra. We met our guide Nadia at Plaça Restauradores, outside the front of the Hard Rock Cafe (which is as close as we will get to it). Seems to be a popular meeting point. There were five of us on the tour, a lovely young couple, John Paul and Sammy from the US and Marci, an older lady from Brazil who doesn’t speak any English, and us. Nadia our guide was vivacious, passionate and full of life, and she is very knowledgeable about Sintra. On meeting her, we were given hugs and kisses, and were soon on our way out of Lisbon and on the road to Sintra. As we don’t speak Portuguese and Marci doesn’t speak English, Nadia had to chop and change between the languages, which she did without issue. She also pointed out various things to us on the way to Sintra, and we also started to get to know John Paul and Sammy. On arrival in Sintra, which is full of small winding and narrow streets, Nadia pointed out some of the important landmarks on our way to Quinta da Regaleira our first stop. This was the summer home of the wealthy industrialist António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, who engaged Luigi Manini, a talented scenographer and architect, to design this quite romantic and luxurious estate with wonderful gardens, grottos, caves and a most magnificent well.

    Nadia gave us some of the background to the estate, and then once she got us in, she left us to our own devices to explore the estate for the next 2 hours. On her advice, we made our way to the Poço Iniciático - Initiation Well - and it was magnificent. As it was early, the crowds weren’t too bad, and so we were able to explore the tunnels at the bottom of the well. From there we zig zagged across the estate discovering all types of wonderful little structures and gardens along the way. It was all beautifully designed, and paid homage to nature and the circle of life. The well was my favourite part of the estate, although the gardens ran a close second. This 19th Century estate is quite magical and fantastical in its design and a pleasure to explore.
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  • Quinta da Regaleira - more pics

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    There was so much to see at this beautiful estate, below are some more lovely photos of what we saw. Nadia also told us that once António’s wife died he didn’t spend much time at the property. His son lost the property as a result of his gambling, and it changed hands a number of times. A rich Chinese guy bought it with the intention of moving it brick by brick to China - seriously - what was he thinking. Finally the Portuguese government purchased it and turned it into an historic site for all to enjoy and experience.Leggi altro

  • Lunch in Sintra

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After we finished wandering around Quinta da Regaleira ,we met up with Nadia again and headed off for lunch. She took us to a lovely little spot called Pensão Sisudo gastronomia in the suburb of Colares, and it was fantastic - for 10 euros a head we had olives, bread, carrot soup, Bacalhau à Brás, (salted cod, potato, eggs and onion) - which is to die for - or grilled pork (Ian and I ordered one of each and shared), and creme brûlée or monitfor dessert. It also included wine and a cherry liquor called Ginja, which originated in the Alfama area of Lisbon but now is a popular drink everywhere.Leggi altro

  • Adraga Beach - Sintra

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Following the delicious lunch at Pensão Sisudo, Nadia took us down to one of her favourite beaches in Sintra. Adraga was a beautiful beach, with great rock formations and pristine sand. We had some time to wander around and explore, although the tide was coming in, so unfortunately we couldn’t access a beach Nadia had told us about around the next bend. I was happy to sit on the beach and take in the sea air and sunshine. There were a few people swimming, and a couple of guys on boogie boards as well as a couple getting married.Leggi altro

  • Cabo da Roca

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We next headed to Cabo da Roca, the western most point in Europe. Unfortunately, hundreds of other tourists were also there. Most were fine, but the pushy Chinese tourists who act like every shot is a photo shoot, were a bit annoying. So, I just tried to photo bomb their shots or stand in their way. The views here are stunning, and the ocean quite wild. This is also the site of the oldest (and still operational) Portuguese lighthouse, and there was ocean fog that kept coming in over the cliffs and blowing across the cape, that added to the ambiance of this spot. It was brilliant sunshine in one spot, and misty and foggy in another, and it kept changing every couple of minutes as the photos show.Leggi altro

  • Final sites and tastes of Sintra

    1 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After Cabo da Roca, we headed off for some peace and tranquility, and a drive through the forest. Nadia took us through Peninha, Sintra’s Natural Park, which was a real change from Cabo da Roca, as we hardly saw any cars or people as we drove through. As we were leaving the park, we had a quick stop to take some group photos with the Palácio Nacional da Pena - which is a wacky and colourful palace - in the background.

    Our last stop before returning to Lisbon was at Casa Do Preto, to experience a Sintra-specific pastry called Travesseiro de Sintra, which was made by the nuns, and consists of flaky pastry with a combination of eggs, sugar, almond and cream, and is best served warm. It is probably my favourite pastry, even more so that the Pastel de Nata, which are also delicious.
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  • Belém Bound

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We set off early, and went to the tourist information centre to purchase our 48hr Lisboa Card. This gives you free or cheaper entry into a large range of Museums and Monuments, and also free public transport, which is a nice bonus. We walked back to the area where the Time Out Market is to catch the train to Belem from the Cais do Sodre. There is so much to see in Belem, and so we picked a few things that were particularly appealing to us. The first stop was Padraõ dos Descobrimentos, which we thought was the Torre de Belém, but we were mistaken. This is a monument to Portuguese Discoverers, which was built in 1960 (our year of birth), and has a lift to the 6th floor and then only a further 20 or so steps to climb to the top. Here you have wonderful views across Belém, across the river, and back towards the city and of the Pont 25 Abril (a bridge that resembles the Golden Gate).

    We did also visit the much older Torre de Belém later in the day, but decided not to climb it - there is no lift, you have to battle the crowds up a narrow staircase, and it isn’t as tall.
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  • Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    With our Lisboa Card, we didn’t have to wait very long to get in. It is a very impressive monument, and took over 100 years to build. It is a very impressive site, and very elaborately decorated.

    The monastery was designed in a manner that later became known as “Manueline”, a richly ornate architectural style with complex sculptural themes incorporating maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone. The building embodies the golden age of Portuguese discoveries, and was funded using the profits from the spices Vasco da Gama brought back from India. Vasco da Gama’s tomb lays within the monastery.

    Manuel I selected the religious order of Hieronymite monks to occupy the monastery, whose role it was to pray for the King's eternal soul, and to provide spiritual assistance to navigators and sailors who departed from the port of Restelo to discover lands around the world. This the monks did for over four centuries until 1833, when the religious orders were dissolved and the monastery was abandoned.

    The monastery withstood the 1755 Lisbon earthquake with very little damage. It stood vacant for sometime during the 1800’s and restoration work began in the 1860’s.
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  • Museu Colecção Berardo

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We grabbed a quick coffee and snack before taking on this contemporary art museum, which is part of the Centro Cultural De Belém. The museum displays millionaire José Bernardo’s collection of abstract, surrealist and pop art. The collection includes many well known artists, such as Hockney, Lichtenstein, Warhol and Pollack.Leggi altro

  • Museu Nacional des Coches

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Next we headed to the museum of coaches. It is a very modern building that houses a huge collection of very ornate and over the top coaches. The pictures speak for themselves.

  • LX Factory

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We decided to stop in at the LX Factory on our way back into town, even if we didn’t have too much time, as we had to be back in the city for our Spy tour at 6pm. We caught the train one stop from Belém to Alcântara, and got off and, with the help of maps, Ian was able to get us there without any hassles.

    We stopped at Da Praça Para Oprato for lunch. We selected a number of share plates, which were all delicious. Ian had a humongous glass of beer, and I had a rosé. We couldn’t really take it slow, as we had somewhere to be so, after lunch we had a quick walk about and decided we would come back tomorrow, as we would be out this way again for The Banksy Exhibition. We walked back to the station and caught the train to Cais Do Sodré, then changed to the metro to make our way to the Marquês De Pombal to meet our guide for the Spy tour.
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  • Spy Tour

    2 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We met our tour guide, Ines, at 6pm at the Marques De Pombal. Ines is a passionate school teacher who really enjoys telling the story of the triple agent Duško Popov, who worked for the British, the Germans and the Serbians during World War 2, and who was supposedly the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond character. Portugal was neutral during WW2, and the British, Americans and Germans could all live there. Ian Fleming spent time there, working as a British spy, apparently with the code name “Goldeneye”.

    As we strolled down Avenida da Liberdade - the poshest shopping street in Lisbon, which leads off Marquês de Pombal - Ines told us the story and pointed out the hotels used by the spies, the close proximity of the British, German and American embassies, and the secret exits into the main train station from a particular hotel. She also filled us in on the real spy’s back story and activities.

    Dušan "Duško" Popov, OBE, was a Yugoslavian / Serbian triple agent who served as part of the MI6, and Abwehr (German intelligence) during World War II, and passed off disinformation to Germany as part of the Double-Cross System. He was also working as an agent for the government of Serbian King Karađorđević in London.

    Popov was born into a wealthy family, and was a practicing lawyer at the start of the war. He held a great aversion to Nazism and, in 1940, infiltrated the Abwehr, Germany's military intelligence service, which considered him a valuable asset due to his business connections in France and the United Kingdom. Popov provided the Germans with misleading and inaccurate information for much of the war.

    Deceptions in which he participated included Operation Fortitude, which sought to convince German military planners that the Allied invasion of Europe would take place in Calais, not Normandy, thereby diverting hundreds of thousands of German troops, and increasing the likelihood that Operation Overlord would succeed. He also claimed to have informed the FBI of the impending Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour, but was ignored.

    Popov was known for his promiscuous lifestyle, and courted women during his missions, including the French actress Simone Simon. He liked to gamble, and spent a fair bit of time at the casino in Cascais, located just out of Lisbon, and this was the inspiration for Casino Royale. Apart from MI6 and the Abwehr, he also reported to the Yugoslav intelligence service, which assigned him the codename Duško. His German handlers referred to him by the codename Ivan. He was codenamed Tricycle by the British MI5, apparently (Wikipedia) because he was the head of a group of three double agents. (Although Ines told us it was because he always had a woman on each arm).

    We also heard from Ines about how the Jews were treated during the war in Lisbon. As Lisbon had remained neutral it was a safe haven for many during WW2, but they were confined to certain areas of the city - mainly the area we walked through - and were not allowed to work.

    One other interesting thing that Ines pointed out was an old cinema, which is currently being restored. During WW2, this was where many Hollywood movies had their European premiere, and so many American actors and actresses visited the city during this time. Apparently “Gone With the Wind” premiered there.
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  • Tiles, Tiles and more Tiles!

    3 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We were up and about fairly early, as we had a big day planned - not as many steps as yesterday, but nonetheless an activity packed day. We headed off at 9:30 am to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, the National Tile Museum. The best way to get to this museum is with the bus, so we caught the bus using our Lisbon Card, and we were dropped off out the front and just had to cross the road. We were a bit early, as the museum doesn’t open till 10am, but then we were off. The collection is held in the former Convent of Madre de Deus. This convent was founded by Queen Leonor de Lancaster, the wife of King João II.

    There is a very well preserved and very ornate 16th century cloister, vestry, upper choir and chapel that you can also view as part of the museum tour. Of more interest to me were the wonderful tiles - the collection covered the history of Portuguese tiles (or Azulejos), starting around the 15th century. There were some beautiful tiles on display and, as we moved through the rooms, we saw how the designs and manufacture of the tiles changed over time. There were even a number of modern tiles on display at the end of the collection. The photos don’t do the colours justice, but they have inspired me to get back into creating some mosaics once we return from our trip.
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  • More tiles

    3 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I thought I better include a couple of snaps of the cloister, vestry etc, as well as some additional tiles!

  • Lunch at Time Out Market

    3 ottobre 2019, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    As we found the bus quite easy to use, we decided we would return with it as well. We didn’t know the route past where we had got on, but hoped it would take us close to the Time Out Market, where we were heading for an early lunch. Unfortunately, not far after our place the bus turned right and headed towards the Baixa Chiado district, so we hoped off at the next stop and then walked the remainder of the way to the markets, which was about a kilometre.

    I had read up about some of the Michelin Star chefs who have stalls at the market, so we decided on something from chef Miguel Castro e Silva. We started with a lovely glass of rosé, and a cheese platter that came with bread and pumpkin jam - delicious. Next we tried a cod croquet, a chicken empanada and a mushroom pie - all were tapas size, and also very yummy. As you sit at shared tables at the market, it is quite easy to start chatting to people sitting close by. On this occasion, we started chatting to a lovely couple from Rotterdam as we finished our lunch. We had planned to have something else to eat from another chef, but were satisfied with what we had already eaten.

    We next caught a tram back towards Belém to go to the Banksy Exhibition - Genius or Vandal? It was a fabulous exhibition, held at the Cordoaria Nacional. Apparently, Banksy has now blacklisted the city of Lisbon as no-one asked him if it was ok to go ahead with the exhibit. It might be a bit difficult to ask for permission when Banksy does all he can to remain anonymous.

    We then walked back to the LX Factory, so that we could look around without being as rushed as we had been on the previous day. There are some great stores in the complex, with more individual styles. I got a great pair of earrings, and some hand cream made by a local Lisbon company since 1912. There is also some wonderful street art around the complex, and some interesting art installations. A really fun place to hang out.

    We caught a bus back to the Time Out Market, and picked up a snack to have tonight, as we don’t need a full on dinner. We then walked back home - we didn’t clock up as many steps as yesterday, as we made more use of public transport, but still exceeded 13,000 steps. This evening we just relaxed, caught up on my blog, and started packing as tomorrow morning we catch the train to Coimbra.
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