Europe 2023

September - October 2023
We are off to Europe to catch up with family, explore new cities and revisit some favourites. We will also be joining a walk and wine tour with Explore through Spain and Portugal. Read more
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  • Day 10

    Marvelous Mons

    September 23, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today we headed to Mons a delightful little town about an hours drive from Limal. Our reason to be in Mons was twofold first to have lunch with Brigitte’s kids and grandchildren to celebrate her birthday and second to attend the Beatles day ( a separate entry required for this).

    I had no expectations about Mons and was pleasantly surprised by this beautiful city which is full of character and culture and beautifully set out.

    We were supposed to have lunch at this up market Chinese Restaurant ( a friend Brigitte’s aunt and uncle run it) but we discovered after trying to ring for a few days that the restaurant was closed until mid October. In a panic, Brigitte looked on-line and found a place that had good reviews, was situated just off the Grand Place and got 4.7 on trip adviser.

    It was a small “restaurant” with Formica tables and when you asked for a soft-drink there was no glass provided and you required to drink it directly from a can! Brigitte was mortified but we soldiered on and had lunch there, the food was pretty basic but edible and the price of the entire meal was substantially lower than Brigitte had expected (the silver lining?). We had advised the waitress that took our orders that Stéphane was allergic to nuts and she advised that the dish he had ordered was “nut free” but then we saw that the rice and noodles that accompanied the meals was covered in nuts.
    We checked again that Steph’s meal was safe to consume and were assured it was, however, as Steph started to eat the meal he started to feel unwell. He took an anti-histamine and started feeling nauseous and generally unwell. He went out for some fresh air and we fixed up the bill and headed out.

    As we had some time and the kids were having dessert, Nathalie and Melanie and I took a little tour around the city. The Grand Place was buzzing as there was a never ending parade of weddings going into the Town Hall. We will definitely have to visit again as Geertje told me that it was voted the cultural capital of Brussels.
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  • Day 10

    Beatle Day

    September 23, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After lunch in Mons, Brigitte, Melanie and I set off for the Beatles Day at the Mons exhibition hall. The Beatles day is an annual event that brings together a large lineup of bands and performers who play homage to the Fab Four. The event is attended by about 2,000 people of all ages (although the demographic leaned towards the 50+) and runs for 12 hours. In addition to the performers, there is Beatles merchandise from paintings and books and photographs to vintage clothing, jewellery, records and t-shirts.

    We met up with a couple of Brigitte’s friends, Yves and Gerard, who are both very nice people, and who made me feel welcome and were patient with my broken French! Geertje and Gui joined us at about 9pm, as they had another engagement during the day.

    The line up included bands from Belgium, UK, Spain and France: The Unpluggers, 2 OF US, CAJ-MIR, Invité D’Honneur: Michael Assayas, Handpan, Les Lionceaux, 2 DAY, The Low Beat, Beatles Day All Stars Band,The Cavernites and The Blisters.

    We missed the first 3 acts. The first act we saw was a group of female students accompanied by their teacher; they were very good but appeared quite nervous. Next was an interesting group called Handpan; they played a Handpan and also a Didgeridoo - they were quite eclectic and I enjoyed a couple of their songs. Next a French group Les Lionceaux who were ok but sang their songs in French, which no one seem to appreciate. The lead singer left the stage after about 8 songs and then the band played a set in English, and this got everyone up and dancing.

    Next was another Belgium band 2DAY. They were pretty good and the crowd became more animated. The next band was a French group, The Low Beat and in my opinion they were the best of the line up. They were energetic, engaging and tight and the lead singer had a wonderful voice and presence. The dance floor was packed.

    There was a special group comprising of a number of Belgian stars in their own right who came together as Beatles Day All Star Band, and they were excellent, as one would expect. The band comprised of Julie Compagnon, Perry Rose - who is half Irish and half Flemish - and had a divine voice, next was Kevin Cools (De Machiavel), Saule - who is a very well known singer on the international stage, Xavier Bouillon, Loris Tils, Jules Scinta and leading this group was Antoine Goudeseune, who is an amazing guitarist.

    The next band was a British cover band, The Cavernites from Liverpool. They were pretty good and very entertaining. The last band to perform were a Spanish group, The Blisters who were very good. They were full of energy and were lots of fun, and they played extremely well.

    It was a great day and Brigitte had a wonderful birthday, although she may have over indulged drinking rosé, but she had a great time. We only got home about 12.30am and tomorrow morning we head off to Paris.
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  • Day 11

    Arriving in Paris

    September 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Brigitte and I left Limal this morning. Stéphane dropped us at Ottiginies at 9am so we could catch our local train into Brussels MIDI where we would catch our train to Paris. The journey is only about 1.5 hours and so we arrived at Gare du Nord just after midday, we grabbed something to eat and drink as Ian’s train from London was scheduled to arrive at 12.48pm.

    Poor Ian had been quite stressed as his flight was delayed two hours departing Melbourne. This meant the time he had to get from Heathrow to St. Pancras was halved. Luckily, the pilot made up some time during the flight from Perth to London but it didn’t give him a lot of wiggle room. Ian caught the Heathrow Express to Paddington and then got a taxi across to St Pancras. The good news is that he made the train and therefore arrived in Paris as scheduled.

    We caught a taxi to our hotel and were pleased to discover that our rooms were ready. After a shower and a bit of a rest we set out to explore the neighbourhood. We walked up to Place St Augustin where many of the buildings, including the impressive church, have been meticulously restored and cleaned. We then continued up to Parc Monceau where we wandered around with the many locals out enjoying a sunny Sunday afternoon. Afterwards we found a nice bar to stop and have a drink at before we headed back down to Place St Augustin, where we found a restaurant so we could have an early dinner.

    After dinner we headed back to the hotel as we were all ready for an early night.
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  • Day 12

    Full day in Paris (Part 1)

    September 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a delicious breakfast at our hotel we headed out. We caught the metro to Trocadero where we walked about to look at the progress that had been made at pimping up the area in preparation for the 2024 Olympics - things are progressing nicely.

    We wandered around the Trocadero, taking in the delightful surrounds and enjoying being back in the centre of Paris. We took many photos of the Eiffel Tower and the surrounds. We met a lovely Australian couple who took a nice photo of us in front of the Eiffel Tower and we counted down the time till we went to lunch to celebrate Brigitte’s birthday.
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  • Day 12

    Birthday Celebration at Les Ombres

    September 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After our morning walking around Paris we headed to Les Ombres for lunch. Ian and I had been to Les Ombres last year to celebrate Cilla’s birthday and had been so impressed we decided to take Brigitte there for her birthday. We were not disappointed and, more importantly, Brigitte was impressed and enjoyed the fine dining and breathtaking views.

    We chose the three course menu, which was plenty for us as you also get an amuse bouche (this comprised of three hors d’oeuvres) and some petit fours to finish.

    We chose a lovely wine to accompany the meal, a 2016 Sancerre red, Le Graveron by Famille Bourgeois. The lunch was delicious and relaxed, and the team of professionals who looked after us were fabulous.
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  • Day 12

    Full day in Paris (Part 2)

    September 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Following our fabulous meal at Les Ombres we decided we would head down to see the progress on Notre Dame. We then continued to wander around the Ile Saint-Louis. We walked some of the way but as Brigitte has a sore hip at the moment we did also use the metro. My hip by the way has been fine so far and hopefully will continue to behave.

    It was such a lovely sunny afternoon as we wandered around Paris and you can really see the impact of the changes the current mayor has introduced to make Paris more green. There are a lot less cars and dedicated bike lanes as well as dedicated taxi and bus lanes.

    For dinner we went to a local brasserie and had an early night as we have a fairly early start in the morning.
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  • Day 13

    On the move again, Paris to Albi

    September 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We had to be up early to catch our train from Montparnasse station to Albi via Toulouse. To ensure we arrived in plenty of time, we booked an Uber. Pierre, our Uber driver, got us there well ahead of schedule so we were able to have an espresso before boarding our TGV to Toulouse. We had been advised by the train company that the Toulouse to Albi regional train was cancelled due to a local strike. We didn’t receive any advice that alternative arrangements had been made until we were 10 minutes out of Toulouse. The replacement busses that had been arranged were scheduled to leave at 2.30 pm so, as we had some time, we grabbed a quick bite at the McDonalds located at the train station before walking the short distance to the bus station.

    Finally we were all on the crowded bus and on our way to Albi. We were dropped off at the train station and found a little shuttle bus that took us about half the way to our hotel. We then had to walk the rest of the way through the centre of the city over cobblestones to get to our hotel. Poor Brigitte was a bit hot and bothered by the time we arrived.

    We checked into our hotel, The Mercure Albi Bastides. The hotel is situated in an old building right on the river Tarn, and has wonderful views back over to the old city centre. We had an easy evening, starting with a pre-dinner drink at the bar and dinner out on the terrace. Here we had sensational views over the river and old city as the sun set. We tried the local wine which comes from the Gaillac region located close to Albi. It was delightful and very reasonably priced. Tomorrow we begin to explore the city with a food tour booked for the morning.
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  • Day 14

    Albi Food Tour

    September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This morning we took a food tour of Albi. We met our guide Nastia at the Cathedral. The tour took us through the old and newer parts of Albi and we also learnt a bit about the history of Albi and the surrounding area.

    Architecturally, Albi is a wonderful city as there is so much to see. Most of Albi’s buildings are made from brick, including the Cathedral Sainte-Cécile, which is the largest brick cathedral in the world. It was built after the Albigensian crusades to crush the heretic Cathars, and intended to intimidate the locals and express the power of the Bishops.

    Our first food stop was for pastries (an Apple filled one and a Kouign-annan from Brittany) and coffee at Maison Janin, an Artisan Boulanger, who is originally from Brittany where my mother, Mimi, hails from. Next we visited a wonderful store, Delices Lamarque, full of local and vintage products from the surrounding area. We sampled a vegetable paste (carrot, celery, tomatoes & spices) on slices of baguette as well as pork and herb terrine, washed down with a local Gaillac dry white wine.

    We then made our way to Cloître Saint-Salvy, a little haven hidden away in the centre of town. From there we made our way to the Covered Market where we sampled cheese with Thierry and wine from Domaine Carcenac with Ettiene. We sampled five delicious cheeses and two wines. I tried a dry white - Blanc Sec Gaillac and a full bodied red.

    We then headed to Le Quai Choiseul - Cuisine De Terroir restaurant, which is run by brothers Hervey and Julian, for a traditional lunch of Aligot and Toulouse sausage, also washed down with a glass of red.

    After lunch, Nastia finished the tour by taking us to the oldest part of the city to see some lovely old houses and narrow streets that were full of character. It was a fabulous tour and a great way to get an introduction to the beautiful city of Albi. The tour was also memorable because of Nastia’s knowledge, enthusiasm and fun personality.
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  • Day 14

    Cathedrale Sainte-Cécile

    September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Upon completion of the food tour with Nastia we thought we should visit Albi’s Cathedral Sainte-Cecile. As previously mentioned, it is the largest brick Cathedral in the world. With it’s close proximity to the river it meant there was plenty of sand, rock and water to make the bricks.

    It is similar in its form and the simplicity of its lines to the Gothic churches of the Toulouse region, but exceeds them in size and in the line of its harmoniously distributed buttresses. On the southern side, its fortress-like appearance is softened by the Dominique de Florence doorway and by the four-poster porch, a masterpiece of flamboyant Gothic art. There is also a massive blind bell tower which is 78 metres high, underscoring the cathedral-fortress appearance of the building. Construction began in the 1200s, but there have been additions to the structure in the 1400’s and 1500’s.

    The exterior of this building is very plain and more resembles a fortress than a cathedral, but the interior is lavishly decorated with art and sculpture. It has a very ornate choir screen, and walls in bright blues and golds, in line with the Southern French Gothic style. Construction began in 1282 and continued for 200 years. Bernard de Castanet, who became Bishop of Albi in 1276, was the key figure behind the construction of this Gothic cathedral.
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  • Day 14

    Toulouse Lautrec Museum

    September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    This afternoon as the temperature starting climbing we headed to the Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec museum. Since 1922, the Berbie Palace, the former residence of Albi’s bishops, has housed a wonderful collection of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, that was predominantly donated by his family.

    Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi in 1864 into a wealthy family. His father Count Alphonse de Toulouse-Lautrec and his mother, Adèle Tapié de Céleyran, were first cousins. Henri’s fragile constitution and the genetic illness he suffered from that resulted in him having very short legs was more than likely the result of this intermarriage.

    From an early age Toulouse-Lautrec showed an interest in drawing and sketching. There were long periods during his childhood that he spent recovering from a range of treatments. Early on he enjoyed sketching and drawing animals and landscapes and activities from everyday life. In Paris, his first tutor was a friend of his father’s, animal painter René Princeteau, with whom he perfected his study of animal features, especially horses.

    René recommended him to Léon Bonnat’s free studio - he was a famous portraitist and history painter. He also was a pupil of Fernand Cormon, where he met many students who would become avant-garde painters like Louis Anquetin, Emile Bernard and Vincent Van Gogh. Like them, he was attuned to modern and avant-garde movements that were sweeping through painting.

    Lautrec devoted his spare time to making portraits and journal illustrations. These early portraits are influenced by Impressionism - outdoor portraits, characters captured in their everyday life, a palette of light and bright colour applied with large strokes.

    Prostitution was a recurrent theme in the 19th century, both in painting and literature. Like Edouard Manet, Edgar Degas, Louis Anquetin or Vincent Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, took an interest in this subject. He focused on depicting the prostitutes’ daily life, that were free of voyeurism but with tenderness. Apart from a few bawdy sketches he minimised the sexual aspect and endeavoured to depict the daily life, behaviours and to unveil the sensuality of typical gestures of these women that only an artist living among them could do.

    In 1891, when Toulouse-Lautrec was becoming known as an illustrator of the Montmartre types, Moulin Rouge’s directors Joseph Oiler and Charles Zidler commissioned him his first poster: Moulin Rouge, La Goulue, in which he offered a striking view of the attraction of the moment: the “cancan”. The poster was a huge hit and still is to this day. This success prompted Toulouse-Lautrec to focus on the creation of posters and more widely of lithographs. Between 1891 and 1900 he created 31 posters and around 325 lithographs that gave him the opportunity to become better known to a wider public. They were made with as much attention to detail as his paintings.

    From 1898 until his death on September 9th, 1901 in Gironde, Toulouse-Lautrec endured a difficult time due to illness and substance abuse. For a short period he was committed to a clinic in Neuilly in May 1899. On his release he was supported by his publishers and closest friends. He continued to produce works until his death.
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