The Ghan

This morning we departed for one of the most eagerly awaited sections of our trip. The world famous Ghan is a train service linking north and south Australia, via Alice Springs, in its desert and red rock heart. If completing the whole journey, it is 54 hours to travel from Darwin to Adelaide, covering nearly 3000kms. Our journey is somewhat shorter, being just under 1600 kms and taking a little over 24hours. The name 'The Ghan' came about as a typical Aussie derivation of the original pioneering Afghan cameleers, who came to Australia with their camel trains to ply the inhospitable desert interior in the early 1800s. The first train service was from Adelaide to Alice Springs in 1929 and the more northerly addition to Darwin was only completed in 2004.
It is a huge train, almost a kilometre in length and the whole operation is extremely slick. You check in rather like a flight and can only take on board a cabin bag each and when you are ceremonially shown to your cabin you understand why! It is the size of an old Pullman carriage. There is a plethora of of wood and brass and at the moment it is in the shape of a couch and large panoramic window to take in the ever changing view. At night whilst we are dining it will be turned into a bedroom with bunk beds. We have yet to decide who is to take the top bunk! There is a tiny, but functional, ensuite bathroom - strictly one at a time.
At present we are 3hrs out of Adelaide meandering through a wide gently undulating plain of agricultural settlements. There are outcrops of gum(eucalyptus), red rock and homesteads surrounded by their fields and animals, predominantly cattle and the odd sheep. This is an isolated life; you are literally miles from anywhere and I suspect an acquired taste that you probably need to be born into.
We finally arrive at Port Augusta which is an industrial sprawling strategic town, acting as a confluence for both road and rail from north, south, east and west. Here the Ghan turns north and gradually the vistas change. Trees become scarce and typical desert scrub starts to appear coating the thin red soil. Soon all signs of crops and habitation cease, with the exception of the odd band of cattle. You are entering the Outback proper and inhospitable it clearly is.
Meals on The Ghan are staggered and we had a very good lunch at 1pm and dinner at 7pm in the excellent dining car. Locally sourced produce is the feature and how they manage to produce such fare in what must be horribly cramped conditions is beyond me. Getting ready for dinner requires careful planning and you need to know your travelling companion well. The vast uninhabited rolling vistas drift past our window and Peter suddenly says 'Do you think we should pull down the blinds?' I'll leave you to guess my reply. Who he thought might be out there and more to point, vaguely interested, is beyond me! Sunset lit our evening meal and by the time you return to your cabin it has been transformed into a bunk bedroom. The machinations of attempting to prepare for bed are even more complicated as space is further reduced. The top bunk scenario is easily decided, as Peter literally cannot get into the bottom bunk without the danger of decapitating himself with a sudden move. And so to Bed...........that accomplished, sleep is rather more elusive! The train creakes, groans and shudders and despite a surprisingly comfortable bunk sleep is fitful, not that it matters, as we are woken at 5.30am to witness the outback sunrise! The train has stopped at the town of Marla, at least I guess you would say its a town. It serves the cattle stations around about for a 100 miles or so and most of its supplies are brought in on the twice weekly goods trains.
On stepping off the train, lamps are lit, braziers burn and people mill around as the sky starts to lighten on the horizon. Coffee and tea are served, together with vegemite rolls, a fruit platter and bacon and egg sliders. A slider is a small brioche bun, quite delicious but needs to come with a clothes warning. One bite in the wrong place risks egg yolk all down your front. Peter narrowly missed his teeshirt but covered his hands and made something of a mess of his wedding ring -some consternation! The sun rises in a blaze of glory and another outback day dawns. So, we are now back in our sitting cabin (converted whilst we were outside). It is 8am and feels like lunchtime as I tap away. The radio is on, giving a running commentary of the country we are passing through, plus tales of life in these parts, all of which adds to the atmosphere. Outside, the red soil is now sporting quite tall bushes and there is the occasional small billabong. It is seemingly devoid of life, with the exception of the odd bird of prey. It is a humbling experience contemplating that eighty percent of Australia is like this and survival out here is something us spoilt city types could not contemplate.
We are due into 'Alice' around 1.45pm, Australia's most famous Outback town, which is situated just 200 kms south of the geographic centre of the Continent. The town began life as a repeater station along the Overland Telegraph Line and is the gateway to the heart of Australia. Early rising and late to bed seems to be the order of the day for the next few days, in order to get around and see the highlights of this fascinating area. I'll do my best to keep you posted.

PS At the risk of offending some, we were offered kangaroo for lunch, which I had. It was delicious, so I am in the unhappy situation of having eaten Skippy before seeing him! Peter went for the full Ghan!! No surprises there.Read more