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Grape Escape 2
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Oct – Dec 2017

Grape Escape 2

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  • Trip start
    October 21, 2017
    The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2

    In the beginning

    October 21, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I'm not sure that we thought we would ever make this trip again, but life has a habit of supplying the unexpected. For those of you that followed our last antipodean journey the format will not be a surprise. The grape will be a feature, as of course will the Ashes contest! We are prepared for an Ozwash as before, but can only live in hope. We are definitely in search of the Kangaroo, which in 6 weeks of travel we somehow did not manage to encounter.
    Hong Kong is to be our stopover, as we feel there is so much more to see and we will see you there. Join us if you dare!    Read more

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    Dinner on the Jumbo Kingdom Floating RestaurantHong Kong at night

    The prodigals return

    November 8, 2017 in Hong Kong ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Hong Kong is rather like an old shoe; comfortable, slightly scruffy round the edges and thoroughly welcome at the end of a long day. It has lost nothing in the four years that have passed since our last visit, still resembling New York on speed! We arrived at our hotel in Kowloon mid afternoon and were checked in by a diminutive young lady called 'Pinky'. An enquiry as to Perky's whereabouts would have course fallen on deaf ears and probably just as well, in these politically correct times.
    The weather is warm, (mid seventies) and misty and it is a pleasant change to wander about in short sleeves. Having said that the Chinese are in unrelieved black and autumn sweaters. The queues outside Hermes, Chanel and the like are undiminished from ten in the morning till ten at night, closing time. The appetite for designer labels is seemingly as strong as ever. Interestingly there are markedly more mainland Chinese here than when we were here before, only confirming the looming presence of the Chinese tiger just round the corner, with wallets stuffed full of yen.
    We found an old friend in the shape a restaurant close by, retired early to bed and proceeded to sleep the clock round, much to our surprise.
    Our major plan for this short visit was to visit Happy Valley, the racecourse shoe-horned into the centre of Hong Kong Island. Along with our fellow Racing Tour companions, we were guests of the Hong Kong Jockey Club for supper and the racing, together with an unlimited supply of whatever tipple took your fancy. The only request from 'Joanna' our guide was that we were able to stagger back to the bus at the end of the night, as she would not be able to carry anyone! The racing was competitive and we had an excellent view from the balcony outside. All bets are taken at the equivalent of the tote counter in the room and apart from the odd wander down to the paddock and winners enclosure, you are relieved of your money with the least possible inconvenience. It is all very civilised. A small starter voucher of 30 HKD is provided and after that you are on your own, or, as in my case retired to the stables! The company was good and a very convivial evening flew by. The setting of the extremely palatial course is unusual, in that you are surrounded by towering skyscrapers with their twinkling lights, quite unlike anywhere else in the world and it was an occasion to savour.
    Another tick on Peter's bucket list.
    We are moving on today to Australia and I am tapping away to you in the lounge at the airport awaiting our flight to Adelaide, from whence I pen you the next instalment.    Read more

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    The old & the new in Adelaide + jacaranda tree
    Central Market AdelaideAeoniums planted out as bedding! No frost worries here!!Art Nouveau screen -Sebel PalyfordBar area at Sebel Playford

    Adelaide

    November 11, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 25 °C

    Adelaide is technically a city, albeit a small and quiet one, of approximately one million inhabitants. It is situated in the deep south of Australia and has an enviable climate and lifestyle. Founded in the early 1800s as a trading post, it was planned and built largely during the Victorian era on a grid system, so is relatively easy to navigate; providing one can tell left from right, which can be a challenge for some of us! Most of the grand beautiful sandstone buildings are in excellent repair and stand side by side with their more modern cousins. There is plenty of green in the shape of squares and parkland, plus the beautiful River Torrens running through the middle. In short Adelaide is very attractive and appealing.
    We arrived from Hong Kong as the sun rose yesterday morning and were at our hotel, the Sebel Playford, by 7am. Understandably, we had a short wait for our room to be prepared and took a walk to find coffee and breakfast. This hotel is old by Aussie standards and very Art Nouveau in style, which I love. We stayed here briefly 4 years ago and this is another short stay. I tried to book here for the Ashes test (early December) when we will be back this way, but there was no availability even last January. It became apparent why on checking in - a block booking by what we took to be the England cricket team. It was only at lunchtime that it dawned on us that it's actually the Aussies, as the Centennial X1 came traipsing through following a morning in the nets, prior to a day/night warm up yesterday with the England team. We did contemplate seeing if we could get tickets, but decided that 2 overnight flights in quick succession would no doubt render us comatose at the wrong moment.
    Consequently, we have had a quiet day, giving us time to recover and acclimatise. This is definitely a foodie city, pulling fantastic produce from its wide hinterland. There is no shortage of restaurants and more casual eateries. We visited the much vaunted covered Central Market this morning. It is an old style produce market with every type of stall from all around Adelaide showcasing their first class fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, wine, cheese, breads. There are areas to eat scattered throughout and the place was buzzing with visitors and locals alike sampling the wares. There is a huge car park above, so clearly folks drive in, meet friends, do their weekend shopping and eat very well indeed. We will be back later to explore further.
    Tomorrow is moving day and we tackle The Ghan which is to be our method of transport to Alice Springs and the red heart of this continent. I will spend the evening rearranging the luggage and sewing corks on my hat!!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    The Outback sunrise
    Pre dinner drinkies!The dining carSkippy on a plate - surprisingly deliciousThe Ghan - a small sectionMarla - Brasiers at dawn!A town like Alice

    The Ghan

    November 13, 2017 in Australia

    This morning we departed for one of the most eagerly awaited sections of our trip. The world famous Ghan is a train service linking north and south Australia, via Alice Springs, in its desert and red rock heart. If completing the whole journey, it is 54 hours to travel from Darwin to Adelaide, covering nearly 3000kms. Our journey is somewhat shorter, being just under 1600 kms and taking a little over 24hours. The name 'The Ghan' came about as a typical Aussie derivation of the original pioneering Afghan cameleers, who came to Australia with their camel trains to ply the inhospitable desert interior in the early 1800s. The first train service was from Adelaide to Alice Springs in 1929 and the more northerly addition to Darwin was only completed in 2004.
    It is a huge train, almost a kilometre in length and the whole operation is extremely slick. You check in rather like a flight and can only take on board a cabin bag each and when you are ceremonially shown to your cabin you understand why! It is the size of an old Pullman carriage. There is a plethora of of wood and brass and at the moment it is in the shape of a couch and large panoramic window to take in the ever changing view. At night whilst we are dining it will be turned into a bedroom with bunk beds. We have yet to decide who is to take the top bunk! There is a tiny, but functional, ensuite bathroom - strictly one at a time.
    At present we are 3hrs out of Adelaide meandering through a wide gently undulating plain of agricultural settlements. There are outcrops of gum(eucalyptus), red rock and homesteads surrounded by their fields and animals, predominantly cattle and the odd sheep. This is an isolated life; you are literally miles from anywhere and I suspect an acquired taste that you probably need to be born into.
    We finally arrive at Port Augusta which is an industrial sprawling strategic town, acting as a confluence for both road and rail from north, south, east and west. Here the Ghan turns north and gradually the vistas change. Trees become scarce and typical desert scrub starts to appear coating the thin red soil. Soon all signs of crops and habitation cease, with the exception of the odd band of cattle. You are entering the Outback proper and inhospitable it clearly is.
    Meals on The Ghan are staggered and we had a very good lunch at 1pm and dinner at 7pm in the excellent dining car. Locally sourced produce is the feature and how they manage to produce such fare in what must be horribly cramped conditions is beyond me. Getting ready for dinner requires careful planning and you need to know your travelling companion well. The vast uninhabited rolling vistas drift past our window and Peter suddenly says 'Do you think we should pull down the blinds?' I'll leave you to guess my reply. Who he thought might be out there and more to point, vaguely interested, is beyond me! Sunset lit our evening meal and by the time you return to your cabin it has been transformed into a bunk bedroom. The machinations of attempting to prepare for bed are even more complicated as space is further reduced. The top bunk scenario is easily decided, as Peter literally cannot get into the bottom bunk without the danger of decapitating himself with a sudden move. And so to Bed...........that accomplished, sleep is rather more elusive! The train creakes, groans and shudders and despite a surprisingly comfortable bunk sleep is fitful, not that it matters, as we are woken at 5.30am to witness the outback sunrise! The train has stopped at the town of Marla, at least I guess you would say its a town. It serves the cattle stations around about for a 100 miles or so and most of its supplies are brought in on the twice weekly goods trains.
    On stepping off the train, lamps are lit, braziers burn and people mill around as the sky starts to lighten on the horizon. Coffee and tea are served, together with vegemite rolls, a fruit platter and bacon and egg sliders. A slider is a small brioche bun, quite delicious but needs to come with a clothes warning. One bite in the wrong place risks egg yolk all down your front. Peter narrowly missed his teeshirt but covered his hands and made something of a mess of his wedding ring -some consternation! The sun rises in a blaze of glory and another outback day dawns. So, we are now back in our sitting cabin (converted whilst we were outside). It is 8am and feels like lunchtime as I tap away. The radio is on, giving a running commentary of the country we are passing through, plus tales of life in these parts, all of which adds to the atmosphere. Outside, the red soil is now sporting quite tall bushes and there is the occasional small billabong. It is seemingly devoid of life, with the exception of the odd bird of prey. It is a humbling experience contemplating that eighty percent of Australia is like this and survival out here is something us spoilt city types could not contemplate.
    We are due into 'Alice' around 1.45pm, Australia's most famous Outback town, which is situated just 200 kms south of the geographic centre of the Continent. The town began life as a repeater station along the Overland Telegraph Line and is the gateway to the heart of Australia. Early rising and late to bed seems to be the order of the day for the next few days, in order to get around and see the highlights of this fascinating area. I'll do my best to keep you posted.

    PS At the risk of offending some, we were offered kangaroo for lunch, which I had. It was delicious, so I am in the unhappy situation of having eaten Skippy before seeing him! Peter went for the full Ghan!! No surprises there.    Read more

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    Sand dune on Curtin Station
    Mt Connor in the distance viewed from sand duneSalt lake other side of sand duneParekeeliaSculpture at Sails in the Desert Hotel

    The Road to Uluru

    November 15, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I think it is fair to say that for most people Alice Springs and Uluru are synonymous, but this dear reader, is far from the case. We departed Alice Springs at 6.25am on Tuesday 14 November for the journey to Ayers Rock Resort and after a couple of short stops arrived at 1.15pm! The landscape is harsh and unforgiving, but subtly beautiful in a pared back manner. The sun is high, with a temperature in the early 30s. Water is by and large subterranean with little to see on the surface, except for the odd salt lake. The soil is rich red and high in mineral content, particularly iron and vegetation is surprisingly verdant, due to the high rainfall this year. It consists largely of spinifex grass, acacias, various wattles and the desert oak and to my delight a beautiful pink/lilac wild flower called perekeelia, which is everywhere due to the unexpectedly high moisture at the moment. It has a charm all of its own. However, If the weather follows it's normal pattern, this wet year by Northern Territory standards will probably result in seven years of drought!
    We cross one huge cattle station after another, some of these up to 6000square miles in area and beyond. Over the years their owners have learned the lesson of diversification in various forms, by necessity of course. We stopped at Curtin Springs, an oasis of a rest stop on the station of the same name. In the 1950s Peter Curtin bought the lease of this land and moved his wife Dawn and 2 year old son Ashley to the Outback, having given them little idea of what they were coming to. He pulled to a stop under a particularly large desert oak and when his wife turned and enquired why he had stopped he grinned and said:" We're home honey!" Apparently, her reply was unrepeatable, which should surprise no one. They lived under that oak for the next two years whilst Peter attempted to get to grips with managing his herd and building them a homestead with whatever came to hand. Passers by and visitors were few, as Uluru had yet to take hold of the nations consciousness. Two family members did appear after a year, convinced that the young family were dead. They tried hard to persuade Dawn to move back east with Ashley, until Peter had either worked this maggot out of his system or died in the process! Dawn refused and they struggled on through seven year of drought. Gradually, traffic increased and the enterprising young wife started a fledgling business of supplying refreshments to the weary travellers and the rest as they say is history. I suspect this is typical of the type of grit, ingenuity and determination necessary to make a life here in this unforgiving land, which is one of isolation. A very special type of person is required!
    On the station is Mt Connor a table top Mesa of immense proportions and visible from the highway. No up close and personal visits are possible, as it sits on private land, but it is the first indication of the geological gems that are a feature of the Red Rock centre of Australia. It is thought that the whole of this area was once under the ocean and subject to considerable tectonic plate activity, which created the mountain ranges and lifted and tilted the strata of Uluru and Kata Tjuta to their present position. Uluru, or Ayers Rock, as it used to be
    known is the iconic heart of Australia, a Unesco site and famous the world over. Kata Tjuta or The Olga's are probably less well known but equally spectacular.
    If you are staying in the vicinity of Uluru, it is The Ayers Rock Resort you will come to. There are five eco, low lying hotels of varying types built around a circle of natural landscape and run by the Voyager Group, for the indigenous Aboriginal people. Since 1985 and 'handback', the land has returned to Aboriginal ownership and is leased back to the nation. It is run by an Aboriginal Council in combination with Federal authorities and local rangers. The administrative organisation of this is exemplary and could be applied to great advantage in many other parts of the world. This of course is not before time, as past treatment of their indigenous population is not something Australia is particularly proud of.    Read more

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    Uluru at sunrise
    Kata Tjuta domesSunrise at UluruUluru's permanent billabongDramatic end of the dayWalpa GorgePlants in Walpa GorgeCave within UluruThis structure marks the geographical centre of the continent

    Uluru

    November 16, 2017 in Australia

    Once you set foot in The Ayres Rock Resort and the environs of Uluru National Park, I think it fair to say that your feet will not touch the ground. Time is short and there is much to see, to the point of fitting in meals and a shower, becomes a feat of organisation. A great deal revolves around sunrise and sunset. I've always been a sunset person myself, early mornings being highly overrated I find. However, there is no avoiding an early start here - 4am pickups are de rigeur, which means rising at 3 and no breakfast. You call this a holiday! We did two sunset tours of Uluru and Kata Tjuta both of which were something of a damp squib as the cloud cover was too heavy to allow for the expected glorious sunset. In the case of both, thunder and lightening danced all around and the journey back from Kata Tjuta in particular was a tremendous electric light show, the like of which I have never seen or wish to again. It rained heavily overnight on both occasions and we were told today that we had been lucky, as the storms had dropped the normal daytime temperature from 40 to 30 degrees. I guess we are grateful!
    I had heard about the majesty and almost mystical power of Uluru and was slightly doubtful if I'm honest. I take it all back. This heap of Arco Sandstone is mesmerising and somehow you cannot take your eyes off it. The actual rock is in fact grey, but over millions of years the high iron content has oxidised producing the rich rust red colour we see today. We started yesterday at the obligatory 4 am and were delivered to the sunrise viewing platform to take in this wonder of nature and the effect it has on Uluru. I was advised by a kind ranger to take a photo every 2mins and afterwards look back, when you would see the gradual change in colour and it worked like a charm. The sunrise was pretty good I reluctantly have to admit and effect on Uluru quite magical. The only downside is being surrounded by the general public. Fabulous people watching of course and I came to the conclusion that most of them are nuts. The advent of social media and the selfie stick has had a catastrophic affect on the so called brains of the young. Most appear not to be interested in taking in all that is around them and the fact that they may never have this opportunity again. They are far more concerned with the inevitable countless selfies of themselves, as grinning morons, in front of whatever natural phenomenon happens to be in sight, or ringing up their friends and acquaintances to tell them where they are, at full decibel, in a variety of languages. Picture this: three rather disastrously dressed young ladies from the Manchester area cavorting about next to us in such manner, when one says to the other as they walk away "do'y realise I've bin so caught up with thut rock I've only taken 15 selfies!" Not a word of a lie.
    We moved on to drive around the base of Uluru and take various forays into and around the base of the rock. It is here particularly that it casts its spell. It's surface is smooth, but with varying erosion features set into its walls, that have become very much a part of the Aboriginal stories and culture. Sunset over the rock was, as I explained, not as normal. Thunder clouds backed it, lighting raged around and a double rainbow appeared over Uluru, so it may not have been a glorious sunset, but it was certainly spectacular. Whilst all this is going on, you are plied with wine, beer, or whatever your tipple may be, canapés appear and a general convivial atmosphere prevails. It becomes all the more convivial as time goes by, as some just do not know when to stop!
    Kata Tjuta is completely different. The name in Aboriginal tongue means' many heads'. Their language only allows for counting up to three, so any more than three becomes multi. There are in fact 36 domes made up of a very different rock, called conglomerate, which is a rough mix of many types of rock held together by silts and sandstones. The surface is textured and rough and we took a walk up through Walpa Gorge, between two heads, to take a closer look. By now it is was about 7.30 in the morning and approaching 25 degrees. This is of course why so much is planned early or late in the day to avoid the extreme temperatures of midday. It was a terrific walk up and back through the Gorge, which I was really pleased to accomplish. Four years ago the knee would not have made it. The outside Aussie barbie, was rescheduled to inside the cultural centre and the study of the southern sky produced one lone star winking through the clouds. Oh well! Incidentally, the cultural centre is superbly done and a fascinating visit.
    We are now on our way back to Alice Springs and I am catching up with the blog. More fantastic people watching. It is rare for Peter and I to be involved in an organised tour, usually preferring to do our own thing. Here though it has achieved maximum opportunity in a very short time frame, albeit on a punishing schedule, so mission accomplished. Why is it always that the Brits always look the worst. Most shouldn't be allowed out of the country without a makeover. The advent and rise of casual clothing is a total disaster for the men in particular, although I can't say that the ladies get off scot free. One dear soul is sporting a strappy sundress with a thick white vest/ liberty bodice covering her to the neck! The men are by and large wearing ill fitting and uncoordinating short outfits with brothel creeper sandals or walking boots and high multi coloured socks. Crushed sun hats are worn in or out and I suspect for some to bed! Mind blowing. A mirror would be good here. Most English men should be obliged to be booted and suited, as they seem incapable of coping with anything else. End of rant and end of journey! We are almost back in Alice Springs and tomorrow are heading back to Adelaide, by air this time. We'll catch up then.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    The view at Lunch
    Lunch at Dudley Cellar DoorThe road to the Sea DragonAntechamber BayEuphorbias on the beach - makes a change from deckchairs!Boarding the ferry to Kangaroo Island

    On the move to Kangaroo Island

    November 19, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 24 °C

    We arrived back in Adelaide by air on Friday afternoon, collected a car and drove down to Glenelg for a couple of nights. Glenelg is a southern suburb on the coast. You can take a tram from central Adelaide to Glenelg in twenty minutes and it is clearly a very popular spot. The place was buzzing on Saturday night, plus there was a beach concert from 4pm till 9.30pm. We gave it a miss! It is quite an historic area for a young country and in some ways did remind me of St Kilda near Melbourne, as there were several streets of what are known as coastal cottages just back from the beach, with lots of decorative ironwork. It didn't quite have St Kilda's quirky charm however.
    On Sunday morning we left early, to make the one and a half hour drive south to Cape Jervis. Here is the Sealink terminal connecting with Kangaroo Island. It was a beautiful morning, the roads were quiet and the scenery down through the Fleurieu Peninsula equally beautiful. It is rolling country, mainly agricultural and the road follows the stunning coastline for a great deal of the way. You touch the edge of the McClaren Valley wine area and there are lots of charming small settlements. Typically, when we were on a schedule, we saw several places we would have liked to explore.
    The ferry journey across the Backstairs Passage (just love it!) lasts about 45 mins and the Island is in view all the time. We were there just after ten o'clock. The island is very sparsely populated and largely part of a conservation area or natural park. Restrictions are strict on what can be brought in as the islanders are keen to protect their isolated habitat for the wildlife (and themselves I guess). Penneshaw, where the ferry docks is a tiny village of three small streets surrounded by some small businesses and residential properties. It has a supermarket, a bank and a penguin colony, so everything you might need in fact! My guess is that if you lived here permanently, a trip to Adelaide would be necessary every few weeks to stock up. There is a small airfield, so you could fly if you didn't want to take the ferry, but a few hours in a car is nothing to an Australian - can't be, otherwise they would never get anywhere. Breakfast had been scanty, so, on advice from the lady at the Tourist Information, we stopped at The Dudley Winery for an early lunch and a glass of something interesting. The view was to die for and the lunch equally good. We tried a couple of the wines and were particularly captured by the Mary's Blush Sparkling (!) and took one with us. A good start. We called at AnteChamber Bay, just down the road and arrived at a white sand beach which we had all to ourselves, apart from the over friendly flies of course. The bush came right down to the coast, the sun was shining and the sea turquoise. Sheer chill out, with a touch of exercise for the fly swatting arm!
    Our home for the next three nights is Sea Dragon Lodge. On arrival (40 mins from Penneshaw, half on gravel roads) we were shown to our eco lodge with a view down a small secluded valley to a private beach. You are miles from anywhere apart from the Cape Willoughby lighthouse at the end of the road and meals are brought to the lodge in a preordered hamper. There is certainly nowhere else to go! It is relaxing in the extreme and very beautiful. I sense a long standing memory building.
    Oh, and by the way the 'skippy' hunt is over. At 6.30pm there were three kangaroos browsing not 30 feet from the cabin. Yippee !!    Read more

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    The view from the cabin
    Eco cabin on Kangaroo Island1Kangaroos outside the cabinAmerican River inletEmu Bay - but no Emus just PelicansThe evening beach below Sea Dragon

    Kangaroo Island Day 1

    November 20, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 25 °C

    We have thoroughly enjoyed that view today and finished the day with a glass or two of sparkling Shiraz on the beach this evening with our hosts; could be worse!
    We have also explored part of the north side of the island. Whilst Kangaroo Island is not huge, the distances between places are large and take a while, even though you see little in the way of traffic. Few roads are direct. The northern coastline is calm and tranquil. There are lots of exquisite bays, home to many seabirds including pelicans and black swans. American River is a small and charming settlement. I was on the lookout for the rare Glossy Black Cockatoo often seen in this area, but not today sadly, only the white version. American River gets its name from a group of American sealers who landed in 1803 and camped alongside the Inlet, thinking it was a river. Wandering towards the cafe for a coffee, we diverted into a rebuilt boathouse to look at the partly reconstructed Schooner 'Independence'. On chatting to some of the volunteers we found out that the original was the first vessel to be built in South Australia. It was bought to these shores, it is thought, in basic kit form (IKEA eat your heart out!) from the crews base in New England. The young Captain Pennington was only 24 and his crew younger and they were hoping to take back a fortune in seal skins, but sadly the plan backfired, as the journey took so long the victims had emigrated to Antarctica for the summer! We discovered that George Vancouver had been one of the first to sail this way and chart the coastline. We remarked that we hailed from Vancouver's hometown, which interested the guys immensely and we told them a little of King's Lynn's history and the rebuilding of The Baden Powell, a project that has much in common with their own. In two minutes they had The Baden Powell up on Google and the phrase 'a small world' was all around.
    Tomorrow we tackle the south coast and the temperature is promising to be around 35 degrees - Help!

    As a postscript, arriving back from the beach, I went to open the screens at the back of the cabin and nearly jumped a mile. There were two kangaroos only 10 feet away. My cup runneth over!    Read more

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    Mrs Koala!
    The Remarkable RocksThe perfect rock gardenThe Admirals ArchThe southen coastlineSea Lion Colony1Mr Koala at rest

    Kangaroo Island Day 2

    November 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 28 °C

    Boy, it has been a hot one today. The temperature hit 100 degrees Fahrenheit this afternoon and we arrived back at the villa this evening like a couple of grease-spots. A cool shower had never been so welcome. We set out to discover the southern coast this morning, picking out the features that interested us most. It is relatively quiet here at the moment, as it is just before the children's long summer holiday. In a few weeks the island will be heaving.
    We drove to the far end of Kangaroo Island (a 2hour drive) and the Flinders Chase National Park. It is a large area of wilderness, occupying most of the western end of the island, rich in wildlife and with a stunning coastline. The southern coast is the complete antithesis of the north. High eroded limestone cliffs and the southern ocean pounding along its length. We stopped at the visitor centre to pick up maps and pay the entrance fee. To my delight when we emerged from the car, there were koalas in the gum trees overhead. I counted six, including a mother and baby. They are so gorgeous and so brilliantly camouflaged, that you could pass within two feet of one without realising. They spend the vast majority of the day snoozing in the fork of a tree looking like a furry grey football and the night chomping on eucalyptus leaves. I even managed to forget the dratted flies for a few minutes as I snapped away.
    We drove another 15 Kms down to the Admirals Arch boardwalk at the end of the promontory. It descends through the eroded cliff top that looks just like a perfectly planted rock garden. Alan Titmarsh would be thrilled with it. There are perfectly adapted plants and grasses dotted throughout the limestone pavement. It is a joy to behold - well for some of us anyway! There were fur seals basking on the rocks below and swimming so calmly and elegantly in the wild surf as it crashes on to the rocks. Again, their camouflage is brilliant and you need to look very carefully to pick them out.
    Turning a final corner you come face to face with the most spectacular limestone arch. The roof is gnarled and dripping with stalagmite like drops in black and white and the eye is drawn to the snarling ocean crashing on to the rocks below. A lone sentinel male fur seal is silhouetted against sea and it is a true wonder of nature. The climb back up to the the car park was tough going in the ferocious heat.
    Our next port of call was to the Remarkable Rocks, yet another of Mother Natures masterpieces. On a another promontory stands a dome of granite that was exposed to fracturing and weathering over two million years ago and balanced on the top are these incredibly arranged and eroded rocks. I will post a picture and if I were to tell you that this was a Henry Moore sculpture you would not be surprised! We did not manage to get up close and personal here. The flies were just ferocious and even with a fly net, the whinging poms could only stand so much and had to beat a hasty retreat to the car. Mind you there were plenty of whinging Aussies as well! Weir Cove was the other feature we were keen to visit, but a three mile hike in over 100 degrees did not appeal and would have been pretty foolhardy if I'm honest, so pictures will have to suffice.
    There are also some beautiful beaches further along the south coast, one of which is home to a colony of the Australian Sea Lion. We walked a long boardwalk through the dunes in the stifling heat and came to the overlook. There spreadeagled on the beach were the creatures we had come to see. After a couple of minutes Peter says "Is this it then? Are they going to do anything?" At which point a couple of the bulls squared up to one another before quickly settling down to another zizz. I had to admit defeat and we retreated to the visitor centre for a well deserved ice cream. A highlight for Peter I suspect; the ice cream that is!
    And so our stay on the beautiful unspoilt Kangaroo Island is almost at an end and we will enjoy our view from the villa for the final evening; study our resident kangaroos that are out there once more and watch a delightful pair of electric blue fairy wrens bickering in the wattle bush outside. Life can be sweet, once you've cooled down and had a glass or two of something interesting!    Read more

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    The view
    Mt Jagged WineryQuirky or what?Struck a cord!

    The Fleurieu Way

    November 22, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 18 °C

    We left Kangaroo Island yesterday on the 10o'clock ferry and slowly drove part of the Fleurieu Way to Victor Harbour. It was a quiet Wednesday morning and we scarcely saw a car, or person, for the whole sixty kilometres. The south coast of the Peninsula is the most beautiful area. It is a wonderful rolling landscape of mixed agriculture, with a vista of crops, grassland, plentiful trees and grazing animals. The sparkling blue sea is visible it seems around every other corner and it does have a hint of England if I'm honest, but warmer and sunnier!
    Our home for the next three nights is a golf club complex on the edge of the town. It is peaceful and our room overlooks the surrounding hills and first tee. It made for interesting viewing first thing today, as golfers queued to tee off.......FOUR!! There were some sights, even to my untrained eye.
    Today has dawned cooler, around 75 degrees, which has been much more palatable to the whinging Poms and talking of whinging Poms, the first day of the Ashes series began this morning at the Gabba in Brisbane. We watched the toss and saw England into bat before heading off for the day, with our fingers crossed.
    It has been a day of exploration mainly along the coast. Victor Harbour itself is the largest of the settlements and whilst being pleasant enough, would not hold the attention for long. It is set at one end of Encounter Bay and has Granite Island just off the coastline. This can be visited by causeway from the mainland and is home to the Little Penguins. ( been there done that) The guy in the Tourist information said the one thing we must do is visit this by horse drawn tram. (?!) We passed. Out in the bay, was a rather curious looking object with a boat moored alongside. It looked like a circular deck with people cavorting around it. On enquiry we established that this was where one could 'swim with the tuna'! I've heard of swimming with dolphins or whale sharks, but this seemed bizarre. Peter announced that there was no way he was paying an extortionate amount for the privilege, when he could run a bath at home and chuck in a couple of tuna pouches to the same effect!!
    We progressed down the coast to Port Elliott and Goolwa. These were much smaller, but charming and we had a good wander round, visiting bakeries (another PL pick!), art galleries, waterfronts etc. As ever, the Australians were very happy to chat and the morning passed very pleasantly.
    A late lunch was called for and we headed up into the hills to search out Mt Jagged Winery that I had seen in a brochure. We found it about 15kms out of town and had a fabulous epicurean lunch, tasting a couple of their wines. We couldn't pursue a full tasting as we were driving, but sampled a very good Semillon and a dashing sparkling Pinot Noir. Gorgeous spot with chickens free-ranging it all around. The garden roses were stupendous and we've noticed that before. We passed a beautiful garden in Kangaroo Island whose roses the RHS would have been proud of. Apparently, the climate here is very well suited to roses, despite the heat and sometime drought, they cope well. Our day concluded with a drive through the Hindmarsh Valley, which was another ooh & aah session. Simply beautiful countryside and the whole area is so unspoiled. This part of South Australia is definitely under the radar.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Classic McClaren Vale
    Fox Creek wines & the gardenFox CreekPeter ready for lunch at GemtreeCoriole & the gardenCoriole gardenAldinga beach late afternoon

    McClaren Vale

    November 25, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 15 °C

    Today we have had a great day out with a lady called Jeanne, a local tour guide. She has taken us to places we would never have found and was great company. She had carefully planned the day to incorporate some gardens and art, plus wines that we could source in the UK. The McClaren Vale is north of the Fleurieu Peninsula, abutting southern Adelaide. It is renowned for red wines predominately, but we actually tasted some very palatable whites also. The wineries are mainly small and boutiquey and prepared to experiment with their blending. The countryside is simply beautiful, mixed agriculture, or grassed and rolling hills
    Fox Creek was our first stop, where we sampled the full range. Again, the sparkling Shiraz was a star. It is something we have not come across before coming to South Australia and it is eminently drinkable. The Winery is set in a pretty English cottage garden and we are continually amazed at the English flowers that can be grown here. The roses are stupendous, despite the lack of water, but no problem with an open sunny aspect of course!
    We had coffee and scones at a lovely garden cafe whose name escapes us. Minor birds serenaded us from the trees and the blue fairy wrens were everywhere. Lunch was taken at Gemtree. Another lovely Winery with a view to die for. The wines were pretty good too; organic and biodynamic, which means the work in the vineyard is organised according to the phases of the moon. This is of course a growing system as old as the hills and largely forgotten in these days of inorganic methods, but boy does it work. We finished the wine tastings at Coriole and had a really interesting encounter with a lady called Dorinda Hafner. Here we met an engaging and ebullient character. She is originally from Ghana and married to an English Psychiatrist. She is something of a television personality, has written twenty books, mainly cookery and raised her family here in Australia, although they were born in London. She proudly showed me a picture of her two grandsons (well you know Grandmas!). "Look at that"she said "white as a sheet - when I take them out I'm mistaken for the hired help!" I produced a photo of Rafe, explaining his lineage. "Well, at least he looks as if there is a touch of Africa in him". She was delightful and it was one of those meetings where you felt as if you had known one another for ever.
    The day was drawing to a close and Jeanne drove us across to the coast and the famous Aldinga beach. It was warm, sunny and the sea true blue, dotted with surfers and a real sight to behold. Dinner was taken at The Victory close by, accompanied by a glass of Rockford's Black Sparkling Shiraz - the best yet. We drove back across the Hindmarsh Valley and to my delight there were Kangaroos everywhere. It was a superb day to complete our stay on the Fleurieu Peninsula.
    Thank you Jeanne!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Sunset and pre dinner drinks at The Louise
    The glorious jacaranda in full bloomAnigozanthus or Kangaroo PawUdder delights, Harndorf for lunch-worthy of the The Sun for a headline wouldn't you say!The Louise in the BarossaFine DiningAt its best!The infinity pool overlooking the vineyards

    On the road to the Barossa

    November 26, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 20 °C

    We are moving on today and heading north to the Barossa Valley and yet more wines. It's tough out here you know! The journey is very picturesque through the Adelaide Hills and then on to the Barossa. It is a beautiful morning and the gums and grasses glisten in the sunlight. The cattle and sheep doze under the trees and it is a straightforward journey to Hahndorf which is the halfway point. As you may have guessed from the name, this is a small town with strong German antecedents and from here on this is a continued theme. We stopped for a couple of hoùrs and had lunch at the aptly named Udder Delights! A local cheese platter was the order of the day. Here in Hahndorf are all things German, from Cow Bells to Chippendale Lederhosen aprons!
    It was busy being a Saturday and within easy shouting distance of Adelaide. The town was a charming stop and we eventually pushed on north, again through beautifully scenic country. Our final stop 'The Louise' is just out of the town of Tanunda and 'a passionate vintners retreat' to quote the blurb. It is pretty special I must say and we are staying in a Vineyard suite with lovely views over the countryside. It boasts two showers, indoor and out! The outer version is in a secluded walled courtyard. It was a very warm late afternoon, so I felt I must take advantage of possibly the only chance I may ever have to use an outdoor shower. (in comfort I might add) There was just me and two sparrows perched on the top of the wall. They didn't stay long!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    The cellar door at Seppeltsfield
    The palm trees lining the approach roadThe family mausoleum built by an architect grandchild in 1929Rockford WineryHad to have some plant material at Maggie Beers!

    The Barossa

    November 27, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 20 °C

    It is wall to wall vines here and more cellar doors than you can shake a stick at! Lots we have not heard of, but others like, Penfolds, Jacobs Creek, Wolf Blass and Peter Leman are well known to us in the UK. As I hinted in yesterday's episode, this is an area with strong German influence. The names are a curious mix of English and German, such as Truro and Pewsey Vale and Tanunda. Some names were even more distinctly German prior to the 1st World War when the government enforced a change. Barossa's history stems from the arrival in the early 1840s of first English and then German settlers, who established settlements and created a unique interwoven culture that still exists today. Entire Lutheran villages moved from Silesia and Prussia to escape religious persecution. They were a God fearing and hard working people and German and English Anglican communities thrived side by side. Various agricultural practices were tried until vines proved to be perfect in the soils and climate of the valley. The success of these early pioneers led to the development of a commercial wine industry from the 1880s onwards. This is predominantly red wine and particularly Shiraz country, although one should not run away with the idea that that is all there is. The platters of regional fare offered everywhere are of the highest quality and each small village or town has its own very distinctive character.
    We have driven all over the the area today, visiting a huge and magnificent rose garden in Lyndoch, Rockfords Winery for a tasting session, which was excellent. It is the home of the Sparkling Black Shiraz I mentioned earlier, so we had to give it a look. Some of their other wines were equally exceptional and we will certainly try to track some down on our return home. Sadly, they had sold out of the 2016 sparkler and the 2017 will not be released for another week. Shame!!. Bethany was the first German settlement in the Barossa. In 1842 a group of 28 Silesian families came with their pastor to settle here and form a 'hufendorf' or village of farmlets. The village is still very much as it was with many of the original buildings still standing if adapted. There is a beautiful scenic drive that we followed to Angaston, which is of Scottish descent and this has retained lots of bluestone buildings of the time with intricately worked wrought ironwork. Tanunda is larger but equally historic, if relatively recent in European terms.
    We returned to the Louise late afternoon having had a thoroughly agreeable day and prepared to sample their tasting menu with its 'flight' of local wines. It was all very fine and the food and wine pairings quite different, even to the point of a red with fish.

    Our second day here dawned sunny and hot and we had mapped out a calmer day. We began with a visit to Seppeltsfield, a large Winery with history! Joseph Seppelt arrived here from Germany In 1840, with his wife Johanna and three young children. He intended to farm and in particular grow tobacco, which sadly proved not to be suited to the ground and so he turned to vines, about which he knew nothing. It was a steep learning curve, but the enterprise was up and running by the time he was succeeded by his son 'Benno'. Here was the true innovator and Benno expanded the business enormously, building huge cellars, wineries and a distillery, as he diversified into fortified wines and Brandy. Until 1960 the company had the monopoly of supplying 'medicinal' Brandy to every Australian hospital! By the 1920s Seppeltsfield employed over 150 people. They housed and fed their workers one good meal a day, on the basis that looking after their workers was the way forward to better productivity. (A lesson to be learnt here?). Feeding this vast workforce was the job of Sophie, Benno's wife. They married when she was sixteen and she went on to have 13 children, whilst masterminding all this. I sincerely hope she had help. The washing and feeding of her family would be enough for most!
    When the Depression hit in the 1930s, Benno continued this practice in an effort to keep his workers alive and the company going. The wine trade had bottomed out and he had the men plant huge stands of palms either side of the roads leading to Seppeltsfield. They are magnificent now.
    Typically, he of the 2nd generation expanded, his father of the 1st generation founded and his children of the 3rd generation lost it! The company is now, after various corporate buyers, in the hands of a single passionate owner once more, albeit not of the family. The estate is quite a sight to behold and something of a national treasure. There is an award winning cellar door, first class restaurant, the jam factory which house contemporary Art and Design studios. The original buildings are in great shape and used regularly, even if not for their original purpose. In the 1878 Centennial Cellar, Beeno started the legacy of maturing single vintage Tawney for 100 years before release. As a result the estate has an unbroken lineage of Tawney barrels of every vintage to the current year. This was certainly a Winery with a difference and we thoroughly enjoyed our morning there. There are wonderful rooms for private parties, some small, others seating up to 450. How about it wine group for the next Christmas Dinner?
    We moved on to Maggie Beer's Farmshop this afternoon. She is a television cook rather like Delia I gather. We had a fabulous light lunch of chicken and tarragon fritters and remoularde sauce with a of drink fennel cola. It was delicious and the cordial is made in the kitchens and topped up with mineral water. We wandered through to the farm shop in time for a cookery demonstration using some of her products. She uses by products of the wine industry to great effect. Things such as Verjuice, Vino Cotto, Sangiovese Verjuice to name but three. No, I'd never heard of any of this either, but would certainly use it if I could buy it in the U.K. Amazon could be the saviour here as they have just moved into Australia and I guess things they will be a-changing!
    We have thoroughly enjoyed our time spent here in the Barossa and move on tomorrow with the thought that we have covered it pretty well and can still walk to the car in a straight line!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Rawnsley Park Station
    Our Eco CabinEmily's Bistro at Quorn en routeThe interior with some itinerent having lunch!A time capsule!

    Into the Flinders Range

    November 28, 2017 in Australia

    Sadly, our time in Barossa has come to an end and we moved on this morning from the lovely Louise. We knew this was to be a long drive and it certainly was, around 6hours with stops. There was little on the road and driving was easy. The temperature outside was over 90 by midday. Thank goodness for air conditioned cars! Initially we were in Grape country and this continued through the Clare Valley, famous for its Reisling. Here the climate is slightly cooler (not today) and the terroir more suited to the production of white white. We called into the town of Clare for a coffee and found a nice cafe. It was busy and not only with coffee drinkers, the two ladies on the next table ordered a chilled bottle of white and proceeded to get stuck in. It was only 11.30! We are clearly lightweights!!
    As we drove further north the landscape opened out and became gently undulating and agricultural. Mainly cereals are grown here and as it is harvest time down under, the Combine Harvesters were out in force. This is a breadbasket area. At one point the countryside was gold as far as the eye could see, which was many miles. Occasionally we would come across a small settlement or homestead, but by and large there was no one to be seen. Slightly eerie for people who struggle to find a quiet patch of road anywhere at home. The road began to climb almost imperceptibly and the landscape began to change. Trees came into view and gradually the predominance of agriculture started to wane. The soil took on a redder hue and sections of scrub started to appear amongst the fields. We had a late lunch stop at a place called Quorn, (no resemblance to Leicestershire whatsoever) which looked of a reasonable size on the map, but was smaller in actuality. We enquired at the Tourist office and were told there were two cafes down the road, so we set off in almost 100 degrees of heat to investigate. There they were on opposite street corners and there was no contest as to which to visit - Emily's Bistro won hands down! As we approached, we did begin to wonder what sort of establishment this was, as the windows were decked out like an old fashioned emporium and on entering, that is exactly what we found. It was extraordinary, a real time warp. The building was clearly of some importance when it was in its heyday in the 1920s and little has changed since. 'Emily' has furnished and decorated in a vintage and quirky manner, all the food was home made on the premises and I think you could say it was the find of the day. I have included some photos to give you an idea.
    The Flinders Range started to appear on the horizon and the ground became ever rougher and mountainous. We espied Kangaroos and Emus under the bushes and small trees, resting in the afternoon heat, apart from the one that decided to jump across the road, thankfully a little way ahead of us. It was then my job to keep my eyes peeled and warn the wary driver of any further incident possibilities! At last came the sign board for Rawnsley Park Station and we ventured down the track some couple of kilometres to our accommodation. We are again in an Eco Villa, made from straw bales coated on the exterior with a red earth coloured render. Minimal clearing of vegetation around the villas allows for clever blending in with the environment and the views of the Flinders Range are spectacular. Ceilings are high and the style is that of the old homesteads of the early settlers. The ceiling in the bedroom is glass and you can draw back the blinds to reveal the night sky, which is something we will try, when I'm not tapping away. Dinner tonight was taken in the Woolshed restaurant and was excellent. The driver had to run the gauntlet of multiple bands of Kangaroos. They were completely unphased, but I can't say that of my chauffeur! Our waiter was a young lad from Corby working his way around Australia, with his girlfriend. It could not be more different here to the steel town of the Midlands, or the flats of Norfolk come to that. We'll see what tomorrow brings.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Xanthorea - the Yakka!
    Wilpena Pound RimKangaroos resting under bushesThe GorgeEarly fossilsCopper vessel used to raise ore from the mine by hand, now an art form.The main shaft of the mine.

    Wallabies, Rocks and Copper

    November 29, 2017 in Australia

    It has been a fascinating day touring the Flinders National Park, in the company of our Rawnsley Guide Phil and a couple of other Poms from Reading, Ian and Sue. The geology here in the Wilpena Pound area is quite incredible and right up my alley. I won't bore you with too many details, but the rocks here are some of the oldest on the planet and their age and strata perfectly delineated in Brachina Gorge, which is a geological corridor through time. There are the very earliest fossils known to man in the rocks here. They are some 370 million years old, not that you would recognise them as they appear as spots in the rock the size of a 10 pence coin. You definitely need to have your eye in! This is a favourite haunt of David Attenborough, who has visited many times, both privately and professionally. To our delight we saw some rock wallabies half way up the Gorge rock face. They were resting in small caves away from the heat. One was as interested in us as we were in him, staring down with apparent fascination. Two others bounded up the cliff face as if it were nothing. Like all the animals here, Kangaroos and Emus also, they are extremely well camouflaged and you have to look hard to pick them out. The 4WD bounced up and down through the park and we viewed animals, birds, vistas and vegetation. including a tree called Xanthorea, or in Aboriginal speak 'black boy' or the more common name of Yakka. It is over 300 years old and everything from it is used to great effect by the Aboriginals, even the sap as a boiled sweet and as it hardens glue! For cricket fans, this is where the Simon Hughes Book title 'A Lot of Hard Yakka' originates. The famous Australian 'long drop dunnie' was tried out and pronounced not as bad as expected!
    We arrived at Blinman for lunch. It is a tiny Outback hamlet that rejoices in the princely sum of 17 inhabitants. It is the quintessential one horse town, but has an unexpected history. The only pub/hotel provided a welcome cold drink and lunch. Peter asked the obvious question 'How does it keep going with so few people?' We are visiting at the very end of the Tourist season up here. A lot of places close down for the summer when temperatures can soar to 50 degrees. Only the Europeans come then, to escape the cold winter at home. Most Aussies hunker down in the air conditioning, as bush camping (a great favourite here) would be impossible even for them. Imagine sleeping in a tent in such conditions! For nine months of the year the place is apparently heaving and they survive for the rest of the year on that. Blinman, in common with several towns in this area, are outside the jurisdiction of any local council. They pay no rates, local taxes etc, but of course they have no services, such as electricity, water, refuse, lighting and survive by cooperation and their own wits.
    In the 1850s a one legged shepherd called 'Peg Leg' ( could only be Australian speak) sat watching his flock just out of the town. He looked down and realised that he was gazing at a copper deposit. To buy the lease on the land was £10, far more than he could afford. He managed to persuade 3 others to join him and they purchased the land and sat on it. Seven years later they sold to a mining company for £7000, a fortune in 1800s. The depth of the deposit was realised and tin miners from Cornwall were imported. A nine month journey by sea, followed by a two month overland trek to Blinman and here at last were the sought after miners and their families deep in the Flinders Rangers. A situation more different to Cornwall could not be imagined. We were taken on a tour of the mine as it stands at the moment, by Sherri, one of the inhabitants who has been instrumental in the restoration of the 1860s mine. The amount of work involved here is astronomical and the money raised by 17 people similar. Sherri painted a lucid and gripping picture of the life of an 1860s hard rock miner. It was humbling and a testament to man's ingenuity and determination. The conditions were appalling and few men survived beyond 40 years of age. If an accident didn't get them, then silicosis did. I will try never to complain again. Yes, I know highly unlikely, but in the event Blinman will come to mind, both past and present.
    It has been a day to remember.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Wilpena Pound from the air
    The land folded like a piece of origamiMum with joey in her pouchThe Rawnsley BluffAncient gum known as the Cazneaux tree after the photographer who made it famousIts drinky time for the locals!

    The Flinders Range from Above

    November 30, 2017 in Australia

    The day dawned clear and bright after the late cloud of yesterday, which was as well, as we were due at the Rawnsley Park Air Strip at 7.45am!
    This morning we were to view the Wilpena Pound and the surrounding ranges from the air and one of us was a little apprehensive! As I said to him, "it's only 30 mins - you managed the best part of 24 hrs to get here!" It's the reliance on one engine that gets him! We decided we would celebrate with breakfast afterwards (if we were spared!!). Our companions of yesterday, Ian and Sue joined us for the flight and the pilot Andrew explained the essentials, before proceeding to weigh us all (very discreetly I must say) and place us in the Cessna accordingly. I was relieved to actually have a seat rather than be strapped to the fuselage. Climbing into one of these small planes is something of a contortionist exercise, but we were eventually all settled, belted and microphoned up and at the end of the runway. This is a dirt track with the odd wind sock, which is very common in these parts. Most of the stations have their own strip and fly their own planes & helicopters and when you see the terrain you cannot be surprised. The take off was very smooth and we climbed and banked to the right. There were a few 'road bumps' as Andrew described the turbulence as we approached the Wilpena Pound rim particularly. 'Air is rising in front of the cliff face which is what we are feeling now - it will soon clear'. He was very calm and matter of fact and somehow it felt better to know the process.
    We had viewed the bluffs of the rim of the Pound from the ground and they are high and spectacular, but nothing prepares you for the sight of the whole structure from the air. It is impossible to take in the enormity and scale of the weathered mountains at ground level. These mountains are some of the oldest on earth, formed when the continent of Australia was part of the larger land mass of Gondwanaland. Movement of tectonic plates forced the earth upwards and folded it at the same time, forming a mountain range that would originally have been higher than the present day Himalaya.
    The peak of what is now Wilpena Pound, was faulted and eroded over millions of years, leaving this enormous rim and a lower undulating centre. Until the 1940s the Hill family farmed the interior and grew wheat would you believe. There is only one narrow pass into the interior of the circular Pound and the logistics that of keeping a farm going must have been horrendous. Initially geologists thought this must be a volcanic caldera, until it became apparent that the rocks are sedimentary not igneous, which blew that theory out of the water. However, it is clear to see from the air, what has been going on here and all around you, as far as the eye can see, the earths eroded crust looks like a gigantic piece of origami, folded and manipulated into fantastic shapes. Andrew kept up a fascinating commentary, explaining the various ranges and I can't tell you what a thrill it was to see the National Park from this angle and suddenly it put everything into perspective. Our 30 minutes was up in no time and we landed very gently back on terra firma. We lived to tell the tale and scrambled eggs never tasted so good!!
    After our early morning adventure we drove up to the village of Wilpena to take a closer look at the other side of the Pound and some other features that we had been told to look out for. As Andrew had predicted (born in Sheffield by the way) the clouds closed in and thunder rumbled and it rained in short bursts, quite hard, but not for long. The temperature dropped ten degrees and the air took on that wonderful aroma that occurs when water falls on baked earth. As we drove back towards Rawnsley, we witnessed a marvellous phenomenon that Phil had told us about yesterday. Kangaroos appeared from nowhere and converged on the roads. On the bitumen surface the water sat in pools and they were quick to take advantage of an easy drink. We saw dozens. It was an amazing sight and Peter had to edge the car forward until they deigned to move. Fortunately, there were few other cars on the road. Having mentioned that I had not seen a Kangaroo in 6 previous weeks of travel in Australia, I have now been spoiled for choice. There are usually several around the lodge morning and evening. They are the most unusual animal and I have become quite fond of them over the last two weeks. We are heading back to the Woolshed restaurant tonight for a final Flinders meal. The 'feral mixed grill' I think we'll avoid, but the Rawnsley lamb sharing platter does appeal. Tomorrow we head back to Adelaide to await the 2nd test, for which we have some tickets. It starts on Saturday and is to be the first day/night Ashes test match. Fingers crossed the red ball and a little more evening humidity will help
    us!
    See you in Adelaide.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2

    Who did you say you were?

    December 1, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I did not intend to write anything today, as I did not think there would be much to say. Always expect the unexpected! A huge thunderstorm erupted over our heads and the villa about one in the morning and rumbled on for a couple of hours. Sleep was impossible, so great was the noise. As I discovered later, I lay awake thinking about our long journey this morning, how difficult it might be and would it even be possible etc; Peter’s thoughts ran along the lines of how was he going to manage to save his Intercontinental points from a travel company booking! ( He did of course which may explain the following)
    Men are definitely from Mars, Women from Venus!! I rest my case.
    We left early and the storm had passed, although it was misty and rained on and off until we were out of the mountains. It is a 480kms drive down to Adelaide and all went smoothly. We arrived in Adelaide just before 3pm and it was and is cold, scarcely 18 degrees! Home thoughts from Abroad?
    When I booked all this last January, as I think I told you earlier, our preferred hotel had been booked out by the Aussies. So, we had to decamp to the Intercontinental over the road. Peter was mildly irritated, but all that changed this afternoon...........
    We arrive at the hotel, having missed the entrance first time round and after a painful negotiation of the one way system, eventually end up back where we should have been first time. The hotel was heaving and Peter slotted the hire car neatly into an impossible space whilst we checked in and so it began. Please remember that Peter is a member of the MCC and as such, keen on cricket - or so one would think?
    On our way up the hotel steps we bump into Jonny Bairstow and Mark Ramprakash - Peter oblivious! Checking in was straightforward; Michael Atherton was reading a paper on the sofa in the lobby and Graeme Swan drifts past - Peter misses both! We go to check out the restaurant and lobby bar, and the ENGLAND CAPTAIN, Joe Root is sitting at a table less that 3 feet away with his wife and young son eating - PL away with the fairies. Paul Farbrace (coach) is checking notes close by - nothing. Finally, the piece de resistance, we go to return the car to Avis and have to make a left turn into a tiny street. Peter narrowly avoids running down a cyclist (who cuts across him to be fair). Imagine the reaction from my driver, moaning and groaning should cover it for the purposes of our journal, until I point out that he has almost mown down Michael Vaughan!!
    As you will gather the England team and the accompanying Media circus are in our hotel. PL thinks he will nip down to the bar later for a swift drink with the lads. He will have to recognise them first! Do you not think failing to recognise the current England captain is a hanging offence if reported to the MCC? Seems likely to me. Let's hope there are no Wikileaks!
    We are on the 10th floor with a fabulous view over the Adelaide Oval from our bedroom window. You could throw a cricket ball from our bedroom window to the square with a good arm. Peter thinks "he will be ok here"?? Of course we could do with some decent weather for the match tomorrow that does not look to be forthcoming. I'm in search of a thermal vest in the morning. I left my winter clothes at home! The England team should feel very much at home. It's like a June day at Headingly. Let's hope the ball swings. Watch this space!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Adelaide from the terrace of the Oval

    The Adelaide Test Day 1

    December 2, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The match started at 2pm, by 2.30 RAIN STOPPED PLAY!
    You have to be joking and It was definitely as wet and cold as Headingly in June!!

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Aboriginal spears
    TarnanthiThe museumSidney Nolan collectionUniversity chapel and jacarandasAdelaideHerbaceous border Australian styleThe Botanic Gardens - some lily pads

    A Test Free Day

    December 3, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    There has been no improvement in the weather today, but fortunately we have been spared huddling on a hard seat trying to keep warm!
    Luckily, our second set of tickets are for tomorrow, so we can only hope for a small improvement in the weather and England's performance.
    The emphasis today has been cultural and Adelaide can deliver this in spades. On our way out of the hotel we bumped into Glen McGrath lingering in the foyer. 'Good Morning, how are you?'says he. PL -“He clearly recognised me! Charming chap”.
    As I mentioned in an earlier report, this is a charming and very liveable city. There is a good mix of architecture, old colonial style cleverly interspersed with the modern. We walked down North Terrace this morning, which is a perfect example of the aforementioned, passing the classical Government building of South Australia, the Library, University of Adelaide, Governer Ayre's mansion house and the Art Gallery of South Australia. We lingered at them all, but made our first serious stop at the Art Gallery. It is beautifully curated and a thoughtful composition of 'old masters' and the modern. There are good collections of Hans Hysen and Sydney Nolan and a fascinating exhibition of Aboriginal cultural art called 'Tarnanthi'. We loved it. Our next stop,was the Botanic Gardens which we loved. Obviously, the Australian Genii were in the ascendancy, but the rose garden was again marvellous. There was a superb rainforest atrium and Amazonian hot house and a pleasant couple of hours drifted away. We had a spot of lunch and then wandered back along the beautiful River Torrens towards our hotel. The news of the cricket was not great from an England point of view, but the cricket chat in the bar tonight was lively. Jason Gillespie, Phil Tufnell, Damien Fleming and Tim Rice were all in attendance. This is certainly the place to be for people spotting. Let's see what tomorrow brings!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    The Adelaide Oval from the Intercontinental
    An MCC member fits in anywhere!Adelaide Day/NighterThe River TorrensWang Wang the maleNu Fi the female

    Test Day and an alternative

    December 5, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We had our second day at the Test Match yesterday. Still cold, but a little sunnier. It wasn't a great day to be honest for the English. The top order batting was abysmal and we only came back into it late in the evening, when the bowlers actually started to take a few Australian wickets at twilight.
    By the finish at 9pm it was really cold. If Australia can't produce warm balmy evenings for this experiment, then I suspect only the sub-continent can.
    We are in two minds re the Day/Night version of a Test Match. It is a surprisingly different animal and most people do disappear before the end which probably wouldn't happen if it were finishing at 6.30pm. We were seated, as before, in a mixed stand of wildly enthusiastic Aussies and their slightly more restrained founding fathers! We had a good wander round, watching from various positions. Those seats are hard to sit on all day and no possibility of bringing the usual MCC cushions. Peter was resplendent in jacket, shirt and bold and custard tie as before ( not forgetting the trousers!). We had a few strange looks I can tell you, but also a few who stopped and said how wonderful it was to see. All is ultra casual here as you know, so I suspect there was no doubt as to our Nationality even if you didn't' spot the MCC tie. We warmed up back in the bar at our hotel, along with the world and his wife. Andrew Strauss, Jason Gillespie and Damien Fleming in tonight. Craig Overton stood to one side, chatting to who were clearly his parents. We realised that they had been sitting in front of us during the day and had a few heart searching moments, wondering whether we had said the wrong thing at any point? The conclusion was no! They were a lot calmer than I would have been had my son been playing in his first Ashes tour.
    Today we have had a quiet day, taking a short cruise down the River Torrens. Its banks have been allowed to remain in a very natural state, bringing the countryside into the city. Adelaide is a very green city, which only adds to its charm. We ended up at the Adelaide Zoo and decided to visit the pair of (hopefully) breeding Pandas that are here. The only pair in the Southern Hemisphere. Rafe is particularly fond of them and so part of this was to take some pictures for him. However, we were soon captivated; they are gorgeous. We were also able to catch up on Australian animals that we were unable to see in the wild, such as the Echidna and Tasmanian Devil. The small city Zoo is beautifully designed and kept and was quiet as the children have not broken up from school. We are now back in the hotel lobby bar enjoying a tray of Earl Grey tea. Old habits die hard! Ian Botham is sitting close by, but not with a tray of tea! A group of five ladies have just ordered their fourth bottle of champagne with apparently no effect. I am in awe, the lightweight that I am!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2

    The Final Day

    December 6, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    It was something of dilemma this morning. Do we go to the final Test Day and buy extra tickets, or do we take up the invitation issued by Jeannie, our previous tour guide to visit her at home? We were not convinced that the improvement in England's batting would continue today, so we caught the bus to Hahndorf and met Jeannie for lunch. It was clearly the right choice as England didn't last long. We met Tim Rice in the lift on our return to the hotel. He was disgusted, having cancelled a flight to Sydney this afternoon to hopefully watch England level the series! We went out to supper this evening and Paul Collingwood, Paul Farbrace and Trevor Baylis were ensconced in the corner of the restaurant. The discussion appeared serious!
    In contrast we had a great day. A good lunch and an introduction to Jeannie's home town and a few friends. She lives in the beautiful Adelaide Hills and we were fortunate enough to see eclectic gardens and homes that could only be Australian. I still cannot get over how friendly people are here. They welcome complete strangers into their homes without batting an eyelid. It is quite an experience.
    Tomorrow is moving day and we head for Western Australia. We'll see you later!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Federation style Fremantle Railway Station
    View of the main street on a Saturday MorningBeer tasting makes a change from Wine!

    Fremantle

    December 7, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We had a uneventful flight to Perth this morning, although the celebrity accompaniment was interesting! Geoff Boycott was awaiting a taxi with us at The Intercontinental and had a few words. Paul Hayward, Scyld Berry and Nick Hoult (Telegraph sports writers) joined us at check in and were on the flight together with Jonathan Agnew, Jonathan Lieu, the TMS production team, Matt Smith, Geoff Boycott and several others we half recognised, but couldn't put a name to. You've guessed it, the media contingent were moving on to get set up for Perth. From what we could gather, the main concern was not the state of England's game, but what time they were meeting up later for a drink! We were checked in with time to spare, so settled down in a cafe on the walkway to have a coffee and snack. I'd hardly taken a sip when I glanced up and the whole England team were coming towards me heading to the departure gate for their earlier flight to Perth. I nearly choked on my coffee. They look so young! Yes, I know, they are, but honestly some of them should still be in short trousers. Peter of course had his head in the paper!!
    We picked up another car and made our way to Fremantle, our overnight stop. I was not too sure what I thought on arrival, but it has grown on my during the evening. We are staying right in the middle of the town (thank God for the Australian Sat Nav we purchased on arrival) at a boutique hotel called the Hougoumont. It is named after Australia's last convict ship, which arrived in Fremantle with 62 Irish Fenians aboard, 150 years ago this coming January. The town is planning a serious celebration. The rooms are decorated like a ships cabin and everything is in sea faring speak. On arrival it was happy hour and a free glass of wine and local cheeses were on offer. A very generous welcome we thought. Venturing out into the town later for supper, things were lively and fun. We eventually settled on The Monks Craft Beer and Kitchen. Peter started with a 'beer tasting paddle', 120 ml samples of the 6 craft beers brewed on the premises. He was a happy man. The food was pretty good also. A good start to Western Australia!
    The next morning found us on our way to Margaret River, some 300 kms south. We had a walk round the centre of Fremantle, which is attractive and built around its port. As we drove south on the Coast Road, we were given a glimpse of a large hinterland, industrial and residential. It is a much larger 'city' than we imagined and rather American in feel with multiple out of town shopping malls which do detract from its centre. Further south still, the new building has to be seen to be believed. I cannot imagine where all the people are coming from. We stopped and had a look round a couple of new towns and the impression was not favourable. Heart and soul are yet to be established. Lovely homes, but it wouldn't be for us. We did in fact begin to wonder why we were bothering to travel this far south and sincerely hoped things would improve. Of course it did! Agriculture came to the fore and the landscape gradually changed, becoming much softer and rural. Traffic was heavy being a Friday and people clearly getting away from the city for the weekend. Vines started to come into play and we finally arrived at the small settlement of Margaret River. Peter found another kitchen brewery and all was well with the world. On the way out of the nearby liquor store we were persuaded to taste some locally distilled gins. Oh boy they were good and we will definitely pay a visit before we leave. This could indeed be a good spot and may well live up to its expectations. I will keep you posted!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    The majestic kauri forest
    The Willy Wagtail's nestHamlin BeachHere comes my stingray!The best pics these days are hatted & veiled!!Peter and Hank at lunchConto limestone cliff top

    A Snapshot of Margaret River

    December 9, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 23 °C

    Outside of Australia, I suspect that the Margaret River area is best known for its wines, although not very many find their way to our shores, which is a shame as they are of high quality. Today we chose to take a tour with a local guide, Hank Durlik and it proved to be a good decision. There is a lot to see in the area and being short of time, it was difficult to know what to prioritise. After an exchange of emails as to our interests, Hank worked that out for us and took us to see things we would never have found on our own. Scenically, it is a beautiful and possibly surprising landscape of great contrast. Agriculture is predominantly livestock, particularly dairy and the local cheeses are very fine. The resulting pasture parkland juxtaposed with the regimented rows of vines create pleasing vistas in all directions. The lifestyle here is laid back and all about the outdoors, especially the coast and it was here we headed to first thing. Hank told us that people rise early and go for a coffee and look at the surf, possibly riding a few waves, before starting their day. He said, if engaging a builder, ask first if he is a surfer and if the answer is yes, either find someone else or be prepared for a long wait. The surf will always come first! Unsurprisingly, Surfer's Point was our first point of call, a strip of coast at the small village of Prevelley. The waves today were not legendary, but there were groups of surfers out there awaiting their chance to ride a 'big one'. This section of beach is world famous and is one of the venues used for the World Surfing Championships in March. All along this coast are the most superb beaches, natural and unspoiled. The surf beaches are graded to allow youngsters to learn the sport and only the best and most experienced graduate to Surfers Point. Geographically, the whole of the Margaret River area is part of the Leeuwenhoek-Naturaliste National Park, and geologically it is limestone overlying granite, which makes for some interesting landforms. There are caves galore, including collapsed sinkholes, one large one called Lake Cave we went to look at. It was a classic example and even more exciting was the Willy Wagtail nest and the parents feeding their young just three feet from the board walk!
    Just south of Margaret River starts the wide band of Kauri forest that extends all the way down to Albany further south. We drove through the most majestic stands of these huge giants. It was like standing in natures cathedral. They are a gum, one of the hardest and third tallest trees in the world. Extensively logged in the 1800s, the trunks are long, straight and true and so much in demand for building back, then. The off cuts were cut into cobbles and sent to London as ballast in the trading sailing clippers to cobble London streets. Hank was in London in October and tried to find some in the streets with no luck, but did find some in the courtyard in Trinity College, Dublin. Coincidentally, he and his wife came to Norfolk, as his wife's parents hailed from Gorleston, as did Peter's mothers family. Yet another example of a small world! The beach at Gt Yarmouth came as something of a shock to him after Western Australia! We stopped for coffee at the Baronup Forest Cafe. Attached is a Gallery featuring locally made furniture and artifacts made from the Kauri. These pieces are unique and works of art and are shipped all over the world. The gallery is quite something to see.
    The limestone cliffs at Conto were fascinating, also the views and the perfectly adapted flora clothing this exacting habitat. The whole area was wiped out by a wildfire 6 years ago and has regenerated in that time. Mother Nature is remarkable. Our final call of the morning was to another coastal venue called Hamlin Bay. This was the most beautiful sheltered limestone Bay. Families were about on the beach, although it was far from crowded. Guys we're bringing in their fishing catch and it was a sunny happy spot. We wandered down onto the beach and I had a paddle in the Indian Ocean. Black shapes appeared in the surf. They were sting or manta rays. I was amazed as these incredible creatures came right up to my feet and allowed me to tickle their back. It will be a memory never to be forgotten for me. We lingered for an hour as the rays came back time and time again.
    I could have stayed all day.

    The vine area is actually really small, 20 square miles if I remember correctly and there are 178 wineries crammed into that small space. As you can probably appreciate most of them are small boutique establishments, producing small amounts of quality wine, which is of course why most of the production stays within Australia. We had a very good lunch of local produce at Olio Bello, the largest olive grove and producer in Australia and tasted not only their vines, but also the olive oil. I resisted the temptation to bring some home, as the thought of a broken olive oil bottle in a suitcase was more than I could stand! We visited two excellent wineries to taste their wares; Cape Grace and Heydon Estate. The reds were of a really good standard and Cape Grace produce a really interesting white blend called SBS (Sauvignon Blanc Semillion). It is gaining ground here and was so interesting that there is a bottle sitting in the fridge now! At Heydon Estates the owner is a dentist, who has a vineyard on the side (as you do). He is a mad keen cricket fan, who names all his wines after cricketing terms e.g. The Urn, The Sledge & WG Grace, to name but three! The wines are superb, although far from cheap. He will at the WACA on the 14th.
    We returned to Darby Park Residences in Margaret River town having felt we had had a fabulous snapshot of this marvellous part of Western Australia thanks to Hank, although we are far from done with it, as we move further up the coast tomorrow for a couple of nights. It has been a full and great day.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Part of the garden at the Aravina Estate- just beautiful
    Seen in a gin & whisky distillery & struck a chord!View from our Cape Lodge balconySunset at Cape LodgeA trachleospernum arch. The perfume was delicious4000$au worth of bird bath - fabulous!Meelup Beach - doesn't do it justiceSugar loaf rockCanal Rocks2A natural Christmas Tree (Norfolk Pine) in Busselton

    Cape Lodge and around.

    December 12, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 23 °C

    We have spent our final two days in Margaret River at Cape Lodge some 20 miles north of the town. As you might imagine from the name the buildings are in the Cape Dutch style, which whilst very attractive, are somewhat incongruous in a Western Australia setting. The Lodge is set in 40 acres of natural bush and lakes and is quiet and peaceful. The restaurant is also pretty special, both for its setting by a floodlit lake and the food. it It is probably just as well we are only here two nights! However, one other reason why this venue will remain in my mind, is that we hadn't been on the property an hour, when there came the unmistakable cackling laugh of a Kookaburra from the nearby trees. I couldn't see the bird in question, but just to hear it in the wild was enough.
    We visited some beautiful wineries, more for their setting and accompanying gardens than the wine in truth and of course the superlative coastline. I am no beach afficiando, but those running up from Dunsborough to Cape Naturaliste have to be seen to be believed. It is a series of bays, the water is clear turquoise blue, natural bush comes right down to the fine white sand and the rocks create a fabulous coastal vista. This is of course a protected area, so everything remains unspoilt by over commercialism. The sun was hot and you literally couldn't walk down to the sea without shoes, but boy was it stunning. I can see why in Australia it is all about the outdoors and the coast. They can of course rely on the weather, which makes a huge difference. Plan a Christmas beach picnic here and it will no doubt be a perfect day. They will to up at dawn to grab the best spot on the beach; (it's not just the Germans you know!) the awnings and the barbie will be out, the drinks will flow and it is all so laid back and as far from an English festive season as you can imagine. I spoke to a lady who has lived here for 30 years and she said, whilst she would never want to return to the UK, she still misses a wintry Christmas and all that goes with it. After the past weeks weather, would you agree with her my friends?!
    The east coast of the Peninsula is a complete contrast; much more rocky and spectacular, crashing waves and towering cliffs. At Canal Rocks we encountered what I think was a juvenile albatross of some type (I'm unsure exactly what ). He was bobbing about in the sea close the the jetty where we stood. To our surprise he swam right alongside us and hopped out of the water and sat down next to us. He was a big lad. There was no fear, which is perhaps worrying, but it was certainly another experience to savour. Peter was also hopping about a bit, as he is not over keen on anything that flaps, until I reminded him that if he backed up any further he would be in the water on the other side of the jetty!
    This morning we said goodbye to the glorious Margaret River area with regret and headed north back to Perth, stopping at Busselton for a coffee. It is a lovely town set on the fabulous Geographe Bay and has the distinction of the longest jetty in the world. We arrived in South Perth in the afternoon and have settled into an apartment overlooking the River Swan and Perth CBD. I think we will be very comfortable for our final week. There are parks and walks along the river bank with the Perth skyline forever in your sight line. We hope to have a quieter week, but are not of course renowned for that, but will try! 'Speak' soon.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape 2
    Perth CBD from our side of the river (South)
    The Swan Bell TowerPeter on viewing platform Swan Bell TowerThe old, the new & the culturalSculpture can be fun!The South Perth ferry comes into Elizabeth Quay

    Initial Impressions of Perth

    December 13, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We crossed the Swan River today to gain our first impressions of this spectacular city. Until now, our view had been from the South Bank and our balcony window and that alone would give any famous city skyline a run for its money. I have to say the reality is equally impressive. We alighted on St George's Terrace and walked the centre. What immediately strikes one is, yet again, the juxtaposition of the old and the new and the clever way this has been achieved. There is a huge amount of building going on here and clearly the amount of money poured into Perth over the last twenty years is phenomenal. Every major mining corporation seems to have a stake here, reflecting the massive wealth produced by mining in Western Australia.
    Rather like Adelaide, there is plenty of green space and of course a beautiful river, but everything is on a much grander scale. This is a major city that is over a thousand miles from its nearest neighbour and is possibly the most isolated on earth. Perth was always something of a joke in Australian terms until recently and that is most certainly a thing of the past. Business, architecture, arts and culture, plus the food explosion has put Perth on the map like nothing else. The waterfront has and is undergoing great alterations. Dodging our way around the cranes and building sites we decided to visit the Swan Bell Tower. The tower is a focal structure on the Perth waterfront and it struck me as a modern day Venetian St Mark's Campanile. It's construction was Western Australia's Millennium Project and kick started by Laith Reynolds, a local international businessman with a passion for English bell-change ringing. Whilst in London, he heard that the bells of St Martin in the Fields on Trafalgar Square, were to be melted down and recast. He persuaded Western Australia to provide the metals needed to cast new bells for St Martins and managed to negotiate the transport of the 1727 bells, financed by King George 11, to Perth, where they were ceremonially renamed The Swan Bells and installed in the newly constructed bell tower in the year 2000. There are 6 levels of exhibition and viewing. It is tall, as you probably gathered and some of the viewing platforms are transparent. This is where Peter scored. He might not like things that flap, but I couldn't walk out there and had to view from a solid floor distance!
    We are quits!
    We took the ferry back to South Perth and walked back to the apartment along the river, with that skyline in view all the time. This is not a natural wonder, it is man made, but it certainly holds the eye.    Read more

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