A Glacial Place

Franz Josef Glacier, West Coast, New Zealand
Thursday, December 5, 2013

Moving day is always bitter sweet, leaving something we have come to love in such a short time and the anticipation of something new on the horizon. However, that is the name of the game on this trip so we set off towards the West Coast in bright sunshine. We followed the beautiful Lake Wanaka for some distance. The water was so clear and still, you could see the reflection of mountains and sky in the surface. Lake Hawea followed and we made our way inexorably towards the dramatic Haast Pass, which takes one over the divide and on to the West Coast. It was rainforest all the way, beautiful, but quite oppressive after 200 kms. We stopped at Bruce Bay which was stunning. Great rollers crashing on to the beach, fringed with huge phormiums and a graveyard full of driftwood scattered all along the beach. I was mesmerised. It was a flower arrangers dream. A pile of stones and small pieces of ocean bleached wood had been piled on the edge of the beach. Visitors had inscribed their names and a message on the individual pieces. It was actually quite moving to read some of them. One almost felt as if one was peering uninvited into a discarded letter.
The road wound slowly on into the Westland National Park and the mountains rose higher all around, cloud thickened and a little rain started to fall. There is scant settlement and even with modern roads it must be an isolating life. However, you are surrounded by immense natural beauty, so plentiful, it is difficult to know where to look next, which must be a constant source of joy. We trundled through the small village serving Fox glacier, stopping briefly, but knowing we needed to press on to Franz Josef, our home for the next two nights. It is slightly larger than its Fox cousin, but similarly serves it's famous glacier that so many people come to gaze on. We checked in to the Helicopter Line office and confirmed our planned trip for tomorrow, before finding our hotel and a cup of tea, though not necessarily in that order. Supper was taken at Annie Mays, within walking distance and we sat watching the constantly changing cloudscape over the peaks. The pattern was never the same at any one minute. It came on to rain once more and the most beautiful double rainbow appeared, so vivid, it had everyone running outside exclaiming in wonder. I am so looking forward to tomorrow and will just have to hope for half decent weather. Cross your fingers for us!Lue lisää