Arthur's Pass

Bealey, Canterbury, New Zealand
Friday, December 13, 2013

Well the closer look has been granted and how! We began the morning with a second look at the pancake rocks and no bribery was required! There was a strong westerly blowing and the sea was like a maelstrom, but as a consequence we saw the blow holes and surge pools at their best. It drizzled, but we coped and it was worth it and it is the west coast after all. Not for nothing are it's occupants called coasters. They are a special breed undoubtedly. It is dank, oppressive, but hauntingly beautiful. The temperate rainforest grows right down to the coast and there can be nothing in the way of entertainment. There are no amenities (fuel, shops, anything!) between Westport and Greymouth (about 100 kms) and I'm sure I would be on antidepressants within 6 months, despite the fabulous surroundings. The Kiwis are definitely a breed apart; self sufficient, independent and of a can do mentality. We met an English couple on the beach in Abel Tasman, both vets, who had emigrated 10 years ago with their young family. They told the tale of once they had eventually been half accepted into the community ( took 5 yrs) they asked some people over to supper. To their horror, all came with their own plates of food and drinks in a cool bag and politely refused anything offered by their hosts. It is the way things are here apparently. Quite a culture shock for them clearly.
Our goal today was Wilderness Lodge in the Arthur's Pass National Park. The road to Arthur's Pass climbs steadily, but not dramatically until one reaches the Ottira Gorge. It knocks anything else we have seen into a cocked hat. The weather cleared the further inland we drove and eventually the sun peeped out from behind clouds. Every half mile seemed to be a photo stop, the lupins appeared once more and the scenery just became ever more stunning. We are staying at Wilderness Lodge for our last 2 nights on New Zealand soil, which is situated about 15 kms out of Arthur's Pass township on the Christchurch side. It is an Eco lodge, heavily immersed in conservation projects. The lodge comprises 6000 acres and half of that is down to a nature reserve and the other half a high country sheep station. The rooms all have fabulous mountain views and it is built of local timbers melting into the background so effectively as to be invisible from the road. All meals are taken on the premises, mainly because there is nowhere else to go! The lounge and dining room have similar staggering views of the surrounding peaks and we had dinner this evening watching the sun set over the mountains in a clear blue sky. It was magical. There is a resident naturalist on hand and there are various walks/ trips arranged for you to take part in should you wish. It is in the top 10 Eco lodges in the world apparently and I can see why. We are heading out shortly on a star watching walk in one of the few areas of the Southern Hemisphere where there is zero light pollution. Chance of a lifetime living where we do. Will keep you posted.Read more