Wilderness Lodge

Bealey, Canterbury, New Zealand
Saturday, December 14, 2013

This is a heavenly spot and the perfect end to our stay in this beautiful country. It will be wrench to tear ourselves away, so stunning are our surroundings. Wilderness Lodge almost disappears into the beech forest and it's architect won an important award for his clever design that almost seems to grow out of the landscape. The famous American Architect Frank Lloyd Wright said that buildings should be 'of the land' not 'on the land' and how I wish he was adhered to more often.....
We took a walk around the sheep station late afternoon yesterday with the resident Naturalist, which was so interesting, as a High Country Sheep Station is very different to any farming we have at home. It is a tough regime and a true survival of the fittest, as to call a vet to any animal is a minimum of $1000 NZ and rarely cost effective. The Cora Lynn Station runs some 5000 head of sheep. It specialises in producing fine quality Merino Wool and exports all over the world to the likes of Armani and Versace to name but two. The other half of the Station is run as an Eco Lodge and they are gradually returning the land to its natural state and eradicating the human influence that has had a marked effect over the years. This is the vision of the two people that own the station and they and their staff are doing an amazing job and I would urge anyone travelling this way to stay for a minimum of a couple of nights. You will never forget or regret it.
The star gazing last night was amazing, as the sky was absolutely clear. We drove out to a field a little distance from the Lodge to escape all human light pollution. I say human, because there was a three quarter moon which according to our guide Michael, compromised the gaze somewhat, but it looked pretty spectacular to us. Venus was clearly visible low in the western sky gradually disappearing over the horizon as we stood there and Jupiter appeared in the eastern quadrant similarly. We saw three satellites speed across the firmament and could see an upside down (to us northern hemisphytes!). Orion, and his dog, Taurus the bull ( need a damn good imagination if I'm honest) and a faint Magellan cloud, our nearest galaxy. So special for us of course, was to see the Southern Cross and it's two pointer stars, not visible in the Northern Hemisphere. We were accompanied on this star gazing by a family of hares that kept leaping round us in mad march hare mode. It was quite an experience.
This morning dawned clear, sunny and warm and after breakfast Peter and I set out to walk The Rainbow Valley Nature Trail, one of several walking trails emanating from the lodge, of varying degrees of difficulties. Early Maori called this valley the 'Valley of the Mother of Rainbows', because almost every day there are rainbows up towards Arthur's Pass. It is a charming name and only matched by the valley itself. This walk incorporates every type of habitat from beech forest, babbling brooks, a fern gully, spectacular lookouts, lots of bird life, the rare red mistletoe and last but not least the magical Dragonfly Tarn. I could have spent all day just sitting in the sun by the tarn.
We finished the day with a guided walk into the ancient Moa forest. Weird title I know, but it was a study of the specially adapted plants on the braided river bed and the forests that the now extinct Moa used to roam. The Moa stood nine feet tall and was a flightless bird similar to the ostrich. It was a fascinating walk and having someone to point out and explain things made such a difference. All around were the dramatic peaks and scenery that we have become accustomed to over the last forty eight hours and the day has finished with dinner and another sunset over the mountains.

So tomorrow, it's goodbye New Zealand; with regret at leaving such a beautiful and welcoming country, but also with the anticipation of what is to come in Australia. I'll be In touch once more when I have the corks in place on the hat!Read more