Sydney

Manly, New South Wales, Australia
Wednesday, January 1, 2014

This morning was quiet, not many people about and one or two semi comatose in odd places - can't think what's been going on? By lunchtime things were perking up and we began to wish more had been semi comatosed for longer! We took the Manley ferry into Circular Quay, which does give the most amazing view of the harbour as you cross it and the waterfront on the approach to the wharf. Here are all the iconic vistas you have dreamt about, the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and that famous skyline. Sydney was founded as a penal colony in 1788, when 11 convict ships arrived via Botany Bay (proved too inhospitable). The settlement was named Sydney Cove (now Circular Quay), after Viscount Sydney, the then Secretary of State in Great Britain and the new colony nearly starved to death on several ocassions in the first three years. It would be the early 1800s before Sydney became a stable colony and busy trading post and with the arrival of the reformist Governor Lachlan Macquarie things never looked back.
The ferry delivers on the aspect Sydney is undoubtedly most famous for, it's harbour setting and the best views are certainly from the water. It is a spectacular city and yet again extremely liveable, in common with Melbourne, with the addition that Sydney's climate is more equable. Only having the day to fix some sort of overview, on advice, we decided to take the Red Explorer Bus, which allows one to jump on and off at will. In theory a good plan, in practice a shambles. There were far too many stops, some of which lasted for over 5 minutes, the commentary was so pathetic, I could have done better after a nights study with the guidebook and a detailed city map and no one seemed to have the vaguest clue what was going on. In short don't bother with it whatever you do. I suppose we did obtain a rudimentary overview of the city, but at the price of being thoroughly disgruntled at the end of it. The arch complainer is composing an email to the Rough Guide as we speak, having already let the tourist office know his views. Well, he has been away from home for over two months and there has been nothing to complain about up to now. A chap has got to vent his spleen from time to time. I'm just grateful it's not in my direction!!
A strong coffee was urgently required and from there we walked around Circular Quay to the Opera House. Now this is a tour de force and even more stunning in real life than photographs suggest. It was designed by Jorn Utzon, a Danish Architect and like all things that are ahead of their time, was not without controversary. It was completed in 1973 and opened by Queen Elizabeth. It resembles a ship in full sail on its promontory out into the Harbour and almost seems to float on the water glistening in the sunlight. The effect is due to thousands of white tiles that clad it's exterior and despite the fact that you have seen so many photographs of this world class building and feel you almost know it so well, it is still breathtaking at first sight and close to. I hope to have time later in the week to take one of the tours inside.
As if this wasn't sufficient, you turn round and there is the charismatic Harbour Bridge looking down on you. Locally it is nicknamed the coat hanger and you can see why. It is possible to do a bridge climb to the top, dressed up in the supplied appropriate gear. I'm thinking about that, heights and water are not my thing and here are the two combined in a terrifying prospect. Valium could be required to get me up there and after the kayak experience, I'm suitably cautious.
We have obviously only just touched the surface today and will go back to investigate more later in the week. We returned to Manley on the ferry about 6pm and as we streamed off along with everyone else, I happened to glance to my left. To my surprise I saw someone I knew, or that was my instant reaction. It was Alistair Cooke the England cricket captain. He had been approached by a couple of fans and was posing for photos. He was very charming and affable and didn't appear to have the weight of the world on his shoulders! Shorter, slimmer and better looking than on TV, he and his wife were met at the wharf by a black 4x4 and driven away. How's that for coincidence and a surprise end to a special day.Read more