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Grape Escape - Australia
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Dec 2013 – Jan 2014

Grape Escape - Australia

A 48-day adventure by The Travel Bug Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 15, 2013
    The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia

    Oz Attack

    December 16, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 26 °C

    Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
    Monday, December 16, 2013

    'G'day Mate' is common parlance in this neck of the woods, or so I was led to believe and to my disappointment I have yet to hear it. We arrived in Adelaide at 9pm local time, after a long but straightforward journey from Wilderness Lodge, via Christchurch and Melbourne.
    We have both felt the travelling today and have tried to have a reasonably quiet day, so not a vast amount to report.
    We have pottered around Adelaide, which is an attractive and very liveable city without strong fireworks, if you get my drift. The Sebel Playford,where we are staying, is heavily Art Nouveau in style, so very much up my street. We did have a slight surprise on checking in. The young receptionist beamed and said that on our tariff, anything we chose to do and consume within the hotel was covered by Trailfinders! How ghastly that could have been for them if we had chosen to dash upstairs and drink the minibar dry! All sorted out this morning, sadly a mistake in their paper trail and only a packet of peanuts eaten. Story of my life!
    There is more sign of Christmas here, but obviously nothing fresh in plant material or trees due to the heat. It does seem really strange seeing Christmas decorations in the heat; oddly out of context. We were surrounded by young things partying last night, as we had a drink in the bar and instead of velvet and sparkle, it is frilly pieces of nothing in all hues. No black, red, purple, green. We naturally fitted in like a dream. I kept expecting someone to suggest we went home to our Horlicks! Fortunately, we appeared to be invisible as of course happens when one reaches a certain age. It does have it's advantages!
    It is 30 degrees today and predicted to climb to 40 by Thursday, so certainly warm, but a dry heat, so pleasant. We move on tomorrow up The Great Ocean Road and so our Australian adventure begins proper.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    The salt lagoon
    Robe and three majestic Norfolk PinesRobe and also the beginning of the Limestone CoastPerfectly adapted floraThe sun goes down

    Day One of the Ocean Road

    December 17, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 15 °C

    Robe, South Australia, Australia
    Tuesday, December 17, 2013

    This is a driving week, as we are on the move every day, gradually travelling up The Great Ocean Road. The first section between Adelaide and Robe certainly left a lot to be desired scenically. There is the similar wide open road, few cars and people, as in New Zealand, but that is where the similarity ends. We had not travelled many miles out of Adelaide before the differences between the two countries manifested themselves. Somehow you become very quickly aware of the vastness of this land and it's strange almost threatening aura. It was very hot today (around 35 degrees ) and the landscape had that bleached out look, where even the blue sky seems to loose its intensity of colour and land and sky seem to merge into a heat haze. The ground is bone dry, water courses are dried up and even the cattle were huddled together under whatever shelter they could find. This went on for mile after mile, even when we reached the coast. We stopped for a coffee at a small town that appeared more Wild West than Australian and I wandered into the information centre and got chatting to the male volunteer. He offered me a map, which I accepted enthusiastically, at which point he grinned and said. "Are ya sure y'know which way up to hold that gal-reckon I'm wasting my time- you Sheila's have no clue with directions!" I suddenly felt I'd arrived in Oz! You'll be pleased to hear I held my tongue.
    The second half of the journey ran along the coast and the salt lagoon that stretched for miles, landlocked by gigantic sand dunes. We visited a Pelican colony, most of whom seemed to be out for the afternoon and eventually made our way into Robe. About ten miles beforehand the landscape had started to change; hills came into play, vineyards appeared and limestone outcrops created some interest. This is not called The Limestone Coast for nothing and when we arrived in Robe we finally began to get the picture. There are lovely limestone cliffs, worn clints and grykes and magnificent arches in the rock. A lot of oohing and ahing from me, but possibly less enthusiasm from PL who was far more interested in the cricket score from the WACA. It was bad news when we eventually did catch up with it, apart from Stokes' century. All is lost. Goodness knows what we will face at the MCG! Suddenly a gorilla suit has its appeal for its anonymity, although in 100 degrees of heat it's questionable.
    Robe is a charming small town of about 800 permanent residents that will swell to 11,000 over the summer break period. All is relatively quiet at the moment, with the exception of the flies. I need more corks!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Mt Gambier & its electric blue crater lake
    And this one is green!a collapsed sink holeAnd surrounding gardenOscars, Port FairyThe breakfast verandah

    Fairy What?

    December 18, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 17 °C

    Port Fairy, Victoria, Australia
    Wednesday, December 18, 2013

    An unusual name for a town, particularly in Australia! In truth, it is now more of a large village than a port or town, but it owes its name to a Captain Wishart who sheltered his cutter 'Fairy', for the night in a storm and on daybreak found himself anchored at the mouth of an excellent river. He named the site Port Fairy in honour of his tiny ship. At its peak in the 1850s Port Fairy was one of the busiest in Australia, exporting wool, gold and wheat back to England on the great sailing ships that docked here. It is of course a shadow of its former bustling self, but is full of old world charm, with many of the original buildings in tact and carefully restored. We are staying in a beautiful boutique hotel called Oscars Waterfront, whose veranda is on the river. At first glance the building would appear to be a tiny English Manor House, until we heard that it was built only 30 years ago as a holiday home for a wealthy Melbourne family, only to be sold some 15 years later and converted into a hotel. The family have apparently built something bigger on the beach. My, how the other half lives!
    It was a long journey up from Robe, with several stops along the way. Mt Gambier was particularly interesting, being constructed around the crater lakes of three extinct volcanoes, one of which is a startling electric blue. There are many caves and sinkholes in the vicinity due to the underlying limestone bedrock.
    It is a coastal drive and the further we progressed along the coast, the greener the landscape became and ultimately the more attractive. The sea is vividly blue and a great deal of the countryside is now a National Park. It was scaldingly hot today, around 35 degrees, and should be hotter tomorrow. Phew!! We called into a small cafe at Nelson for a drink and break and witnessed the following exchange between two local 'mates'. " what d'ya reckon to the new landlord then." Long pause. " Likes his fishing.......pretty friendly..... talks the leg off a chair". What a great turn of phrase, I look forward to more, but I'm still waiting for the 'Gidday' and all I keep getting is 'No worries!' It's epidemic.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Tower Hill Reserve crater lake and scoria ash hills
    The 41 degree walk!The one other living creature apart from us!Bay of Islands Coastal Park-Oz styleLondon Bridge

    The Great Ocean Road

    December 19, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 29 °C

    Port Campbell, Victoria, Australia
    Thursday, December 19, 2013

    Noel Coward coined an excellent phrase in one of his iconic songs, which you will all know:
    "Mad Dogs and Englishmen Go Out in the Midday Sun", and never were truer words spoken today.....
    It was a short journey to Port Campbell our overnight stop tonight, which enabled us to tarry a while along the way. The temperature was already up to 30 degrees when we took breakfast out on the verandah this morning. The view over the river and Port Fairy was a lovely start to the day and breakfast sumptuous. Poached pears in cinnamon syrup, homemade toasted muesli and Greek yogurt, followed by a freshly cooked main course of real imagination. Peter had roasted tomatoes on rye toast spread with rocket pesto and rocket topped and I had the hot cakes with caramelised bananas. Yum yum! We took our leave with regret and will definitely be back if we are ever this way again. Remember Oscar's in Port Fairy and similarly Ann's Place in Robe. Both first class. After a wander round Port Fairy we set off towards Port Campbell and the beginning of the The Great Ocean Road proper.
    We stopped at Tower Hill, (Victoria's first National Park just before Warrnambool ) and it is a fascinating place, the sort I have been waiting to see. It is an enormous volcanic crater some 4 kms across. The swampy floor is punctuated by conical hills called scoria (ash eruptions) and after a good rain they become Islands surrounded by a shallow lake. The inside of the crater is now a wildlife reserve and the native vegetation has been allowed to re grow, having being decimated by slash and burn techniques in the years of early human settlement. We saw Emu a plenty and lots of bird life which was a thrill and apparently there are kangaroos, echidna, koalas, wallabies etc under normal circumstances. When we arrived the temperature in the crater had soared to 41 degrees and any sensible 'animal' with the exception of the mad dog English types had long since gone to ground in cool vegetation! However, we only had the one chance and decided we would have to give one of the shorter walks a go. Hot wasn't the word for it and yes, we were mad, coming back in my case like a large overripe strawberry. It is a stunning Park and I'm sure in cooler conditions there would have been more to see in terms of wildlife.
    Eventually we moved on, having sat in the air conditioned car for 10 mins to recover a degree of cool and once we hit The Great Ocean Road Proper there were lots of scenic coastal lookouts to take advantage of. Mind you, you do have to run the gauntlet of the million and one killer flies ready to dive bomb you the minute you emerge from the safety of the car. They even manage to get under my wide brimmed hat and large sunglasses. It is still limestone bedrock, so the coastline is absolutely spectacular and I expect we have even more to come tomorrow.
    Port Campbell is something of a one horse town, without the historic attractions of its Fairy cousin, but it is packed full to capacity with people determined to enjoy the weather and the coast. We are told there will be a slight relief tomorrow, the temperature should only be 30 degrees!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Loch Ard and the Shipwreck Coast
    Loch Ard GorgeThe clifftop floraThe twelve apostlesVirginia and Bob's English Garden in the Otway ForestStyrax Formosa aka the snowdrop treeThe grey furry football if you have good eyesight!Approaching Apollo Bay - English rolling hills or what?

    The Shipwreck Coast

    December 20, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 14 °C

    Apollo Bay, Victoria, Australia
    Friday, December 20, 2013

    What a difference a day makes! We woke up this morning to overcast skies and 18 degrees and there it stayed. It was a bit of a relief if I'm honest, Pathetic Poms that we are!
    The stretch of coastline between Port Campbell and Apollo Bay is perhaps the most dramatic of the Great Ocean Road. All around Port Campbell is National Park and we kicked off stopping to view the Loch Ard Gorge and The Twelve Apostles. The title of the the Shipwreck Coast is well deserved, as many ships foundered off this treacherous coastline during the C18th & C19th centuries. Treacherous it may be, but it is also sublimely stunning. Geologically, it is mind blowing. The limestone bedrock is faulted at right angles to the coastline with the result that the erosive process has carved out a fantastic spectacle, full of arches, coves, stacks, pinnacles and gorges. We spent a long time just gazing in wonder and when we ventured down onto the beach of Loch Ard Gorge the sheer carved cliffs around us were breathtaking. Loch Ard was one of the sailing ships that sank, in this case, in the mouth of the gorge. The vessel had successfully made the voyage from England and anchored off the coast in mist, the passengers and crew celebrating their safe passage, only to drift on to the rocks overnight. Two teenagers survived. There are some 300 wrecks up and down the coast and to this day, it is not to be trifled with. The Twelve Apostles are the big draw that everyone heads for and they are a fantastic sight, although one can only actually see eight in one go, as the other four are obscured by the headland. Equally interesting to me was the beautifully adapted flora growing on the cliff top. We were seeing it in bloom of course which helped, but it is a tapestry of texture and colour in such a windswept, salt laden atmosphere. Mother Nature at her most inventive.
    The countryside from here becomes greener and rolling and I started to almost feel that Derbyshire was around the corner with limestone crags beginning to appear. Before I could feel too much at home, we started to climb towards the Otway Forest and into the mists of time. Here the road leaves the coast and we had in our minds to stop at Melba Gully to walk the rainforest, but as we approached we were sidetracked, as there in front of us stood the perfect English house and garden and it was open to visitors for the princely sum of five dollars per person. Gobsmacked wasn't the word. We turned into the drive and honked as requested. Around the corner came a greyhound closely followed by a lady called Virginia, togged up in a silage covered boiler suit. 'Don't get downwind, this isn't a perfume for the faint hearted!' was her initial greeting. I recognised a fellow plant fanatic instantly and we had a wonderful hour exploring her and Bob's eleven acre garden. There were roses, peonies, delphiniums, hollyhocks, lilies, azaleas, camellias, Cornus kousa, and controversa, magnolia grandiflora, dahlias, poppies, sweet peas, fuschias, fruit of all types, an ornamental vegetable garden and so I could go on. We were flabbergasted to see this classic English garden thriving in South Australia and as we stood there mesmerised, three red parrots flew towards us cackling argumentatively, as if to underline the juxtaposition. Virginia explained it is all due to the local microclimate. It is wetter, cooler and wind protected. Whatever it is, the garden is a total labour of love for this couple and they offer Bed and Breakfast. A hidden gem undoubtedly and a wonderful surprise. I almost felt we had been led there by a hidden hand.
    Once we had managed to tear ourselves away, the Great Ocean Road descended back towards the coast and Apollo Bay, our destination. We had had a tip that if we followed the road down towards Cape Otway, there is a strong population of Koalas living in the eucalyptus forest and we may be lucky enough to spot one. It seemed like a good idea and so we dutifully turned off accordingly. It was like looking for a needle in a haystack. Peter drove slowly and I had my eyes pinned on the trees. I knew that the Koala is often to be found asleep in the fork of a gum tree during the day and after ten kms or so that is where I spied one. In truth it looked like a grey furry football jammed in the fork of the tree about 50 ft up. 'There!' I yelled. Peter jumped a mile and narrowly managed to avoid knocking down the tree in question and we carefully emerged from the car so as not to startle our quarry. We have seen our first (and possibly only) wild Koala and it sealed a day of great diversity. The camera chose to run out of battery at this point, but he is still there in my minds eye and that's where he will stay, slumbering quietly in his tree.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    The ferry to Mornington Peninsula
    Peppers Moonah Golf Links

    Mornington Peninsula

    December 21, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 17 °C

    Fingal, Victoria, Australia
    Saturday, December 21, 2013

    The weather has continued in similar vein today with the addition of rain this morning. Definitely feels like home! It has been a travelling day, so not much of moment to report, apart from one thing late on.
    This morning we drove the rest of the Great Ocean Road through Lorne, Airey's Inlet, Angelsea and Torquay, which sadly have little to recommend them. Great Yarmouth on a good day was my thought. They are predominantly seaside resorts particularly famed for their surfing beaches and will be packed with youngsters after the Christmas break. The schools have now broken for their long summer holiday and so families will be heading for the beach, as they do the world over.
    The real attraction on this section of the road is the drive itself, as it hugs the coast all the way, with forest growing down to the sea. The idea of it's construction was to emulate the Big Sur in California, as the Australians feel this is just as spectacular. I will have to reserve judgement on that until we have driven them both. However, it is certainly eye catching even in the rain. It is also some feat of engineering and was constructed after the First World War, by returning servicemen. During the Depression many old soldiers had fallen on hard times and were employed to build the road as a memorial to their fallen comrades. We passed under the poignant wooden memorial arch they constructed and you could almost feel the weight of souls bearing down on you.
    Using the Car Ferry we crossed Port Philip Bay (Melbourne Harbour) from Queenscliff on the Bellarine Peninsula to Sorrento on the Mornington Peninsula. The later is a smart, expensive but relaxed outer suburb of Melbourne, with something of the Cape Cod feel about it. Only about an hour and half from the city it is obviously the haunt of wealthy locals and we are staying on a very smart Golf Resort called the Peppers Moonah Links. There are two championship courses here, designed by Peter Thomson, five time winner of the Open Championship. I will upload the view from our balcony. I am sitting out here whilst penning my daily travelogue to you. It is quiet and relaxing and the only noise is birdsong. Lovely. We had a late lunch in the equivalent of the Spike Bar, which being a Saturday was busy. I didn't take too much notice when another group of four players came into the bar for a drink, amidst much congratulations, as one of them had made a hole in one. Peter nudged me and said under his breath ' Do you recognise the chap in the yellow top?' It took me a minute, but then I realised it was Geoff Boycott and he had scored the hole in one on the 16th. He was accompanied by Gladstone Small (ex cricketer for those who have no clue!) and two Aussies who were obviously hosting them. Peter had a word and they were very cordial. Interestingly, cricket was assiduously avoided. Now there's a surprise!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    The Koala Conservation Centre
    Holmwood Guesthouse on Philip IslandAnd another lovely English styled gardenHeading down to watch The Penguin ParadeA little blue penguin

    The Penguin Parade

    December 22, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 26 °C

    Cowes, Victoria, Australia
    Sunday, December 22, 2013

    The journey today was quite short by our standards and we arrived on Philip Island by lunchtime. We are staying in Holmwood guesthouse in Cowes. The former is superb and another to add to the list. Philip Island is tiny and you can drive round it in a couple of hours. It is pretty, with a gorgeous coastline yet again and seems to be modelled on a tiny Isle of Wight, as there is a Ventor and Rye. It is twinned with its English counterpart you may not be surprised to hear. We had a close encounter with Koalas this afternoon, but as part of a conservation project this time. That viewing in the wild will still be the highlight for me, even though we were much closer this time.
    This evening we have been to the Penguin Parade. This is a natural nightly event as the Little Blue Penguins come ashore to their burrows in the dunes behind the beach. We did have our reservations about going, as it is a huge managed tourist happening and I must be honest it was a circus. The spectators gather on wooden benches arranged in an amphitheatre. Half of Asia was there and they cannot sit still, be quiet or refrain from photography, which is one of the conditions.
    The first penguin waddled up the beach at 9.03pm and they just kept coming in rafts(the technical term for a group of penguins apparently!). They are tiny, about 6 ins high and it is such an effort for them to waddle up to their burrows they have to keep stopping for a snooze. The chicks rush out to greet them calling vociferously for their parents. Some of the more aggressive youngsters will attack any passing adult and get short shrift for doing so I can tell you. I wish some of the human parents were as strict with their misbehaving young ! It was an amazing phenomenon to witness and only spoiled by the bus loads of tourists who clearly have it on their itinerary, but have no clue what they are to see and are not interested either. After the first twenty penguins had hit the beach, loads of the audience just jumped to their feet and made for the exit
    We did enjoy the spectacle, but our fears were somewhat justified. Think carefully before going. .    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Our St Kilda retreat
    The front of the cottageHow's this for the allotments?

    Melbourne Ahoy!

    December 23, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Monday, December 23, 2013

    I am sitting writing tonights's journal in a little flat in St Kilda and it lovely to have a small home from home, if only for a week. Don't faint, but we have finally unpacked the suitcases - a Christmas present to one another you understand. There is a gin and tonic gently clinking at my elbow and an old 'Yes Minister' on the TV. Lost none of it's magic! Couple of old fogeys or what? Don't answer that, it is the season of goodwill after all.
    We left Philip Island this morning to drive to Melbourne and the suburb of St Kilda particularly.
    St Kilda is on the coast of Melbourne Harbour some five miles south of the city centre. It is a seaside village in essence, well serviced by the tram system and has a quirky, relaxed almost louche feel. We may be lucky to escape without some iron work or a tattoo sleeve at the very least. In short I think we will be very comfortable here! We had to return the car to the Avis depot in downtown Melbourne this afternoon and once the task was accomplished had time for a walkabout, which only reinforced the feeling.
    Of course we are here primarily to see the remarkable resurgence of our National Cricket Team. We can only hope for a miracle. All seems set to implode if the chat is anything to go by. The thought has been mooted that Peter may be slightly reluctant to sport his MCC tie which has winged its way here and will be de rigeur, naturally. If you should happen to see a chap in a gorilla suit with glasses, a panama and sporting a blood and custard, you'll know you have found your man. His charming companion will be wearing a large straw sun hat and extremely dark glasses.
    Tomorrow is Christmas Eve and I will be quite lost without my annual fix of stuffing the Turkey. For the first time in 35 years someone else is stuffing it for me, namely the chef at the MCG.
    If I can get over the guilt I will try to enjoy it!
    Happy stuffing.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Dressing the beach for Christmas
    St Kilda Main Street on Christmas Eve MorningMore people outside the supermarket than in!

    Christmas Eve in the sun

    December 24, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Tuesday, December 24, 2013

    Well this is it, the day of manic preparation , the storm before the storm, except for here in Australia. The cafés are packed, the beaches are suddenly sporting Christmas trees fully decorated, guys bicycle past dressed as Santa Claus, the sun is shining and that is probably the big difference in approach. Christmas here is a late bloomer and lighthearted. Climate matters.
    St Kilda is an eclectic mix of style which blend seemlessly together; Edwardian villas, Victorian theatres, Art Deco mansion blocks with contemporary highlights. Our small apartment is attached to a late Georgian cottage of pure Jane Austin charm and built in 1864. Fawkner and nearby Havelock Street are are both of that genre and Fawkner Street has a particular claim to fame. It's most famous resident was one Dulcie Markham, a gangsters moll, who married Leonard 'Dedda' Lewis in her Fawkner Street abode. A week later they were both run out of town by the police for their involvement in a double killing in Dulcie's house. How's that for coincidence. I'd be willing to bet that another Dulcie has not lived here since, until now.
    Sleep well. Happy Christmas!!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    The MCG on Christmas Day
    There's nothing like a Christmas welcome!The Dining Room set for lunchWow, that's some gingerbread house!The Melbourne skyline from the TerraceSt Kilda Beach on Christmas afternoon

    And so this is Christmas!

    December 25, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Wednesday, December 25, 2013

    It has been thirty something in the shade today and as such a typical Aussie Christmas.
    We had our first glimpse of the MCG today as we were there for Christmas Lunch . There is a reciprocal arrangement between The MCC and the MCG, hence we were able to see inside the pavilion and which is pretty smart, in thoroughly modern style; quite unlike Lords of course, but none the less very interesting The Dining Room seats around 400 people and has a glass wall overlooking the pitch, so whatever you may be doing you will not miss a ball. Apparently, the men's cloakroom has the same feature, but from the waist up, you'll be relieved to hear!
    We were very well looked after and had the opportunity to wander round after lunch and have a look at the pitch, which is a drop in. Both teams had practised there earlier in the morning before having their lunch in a different part of the ground.
    It was a beautiful evening on our return to St Kilda and out of curiosity we took a walk down the Main Street and along the beach promenade. To our astonishment it was heaving, with people just everywhere. The beach was still wall to wall. Even a German would have had a job to place a towel! There were BBQs and picnics at every vantage point and I think you can safely say the Aussies do things differently. More light hearted and casual, which should not be a surprise, as they do have that reputation. It was an eye opener just the same, but fun. I think the fact that everything is so different, has taken our minds off the fact that we are half a world away from all that is dear to us. A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS DAY TO YOU ALL.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Preparation
    Ready and waiting!The Opening CeremonyWe're underway!A Full House

    The Boxing Day Test

    December 26, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Thursday, December 26, 2013

    This is Peter's special day, that he has been waiting for these past two months. Blow all those rocks that I have waxed lyrical about, this is the real deal. The Boxing Day Test at the MCG.
    We arrived bright and early as we had tickets to collect and seats to find. The ground is enormous and it was already thronging with folk all with the same idea in mind. We had excellent seats under cover and just to the right of the bowler's arm. For those of you in the know - a very similar position to that of the Warner Stand at Lords. We were on the end of a row, with no one in front of us, so in theory an unrestricted viewpoint, just marvellous. However, there is always a snag and before long it became apparent what it was! Unlike on English grounds, there are no unwritten rules about restricting movement from your seat until the end of an over. Here, they jump up all over the place, wander desultorily off gossiping in the aisle and generally obscuring the line of sight.. The stewards at Lords would have heart failure, as did PL for the first hour. He and the rest of the Lords contingent chuntered away like things demented, until they came to terms with the fact, that this is how it is and you have to ignore it.
    The crowd was a world record attendance of 91,092 and it is an atmosphere quite unlike any other. When they get behind Mitchell Johnson (fast bowler for the uninitiated!), the noise and vibration seems to come up from underneath you, travel up the spine and out of the top of your head. It is electrifying. There is not the quick fire witty banter of English crowds, but it is all very friendly and lively and a wonderful experience.
    The cricket itself was gruelling at times if you were an English supporter, as England struggled to survive a tight and always threatening bowling attack. Uncharacteristically, the fielding was spasmodic, several catches being put down, including two from Pieterson. The scoring was slow and Australia probably just emerged on top, with the last two wickets taken late in the day. Tomorrow will be interesting.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Viewed from on high!
    The MCG Hall of Fame

    Test Day 2

    December 27, 2013 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Friday, December 27, 2013

    Today has certainly been very interesting! Once more we arrived early at the MCG, expecting the England tail not to wag for long. How right we were. Bresnan went first ball of the morning, fending off a vicious lifting bouncer from Johnson and with that Pieterson lost the plot, forgot how to defend and attempted to pulverise the wrong ball with the inevitable result. They were all out by eleven o'clock for 255. Lunch came very quickly, but with the surprise of Australia loosing 2 wickets quickly beforehand.. Strangely enough the afternoon session followed a very similar pattern to the day before, with the English bowlers finally putting together a sustained and threatening attack. They never allowed the Australians to settle and the runs dried up to a trickle.
    We took the chance to visit the MCC Museum of Sport, which obviously featured cricket, but also other National sporting achievements. It was extremely interesting and well collated and a couple of hours passed in no time.
    We returned to our seats just before tea and in time for an Australian collapse, which was something of a surprise. They finished the day on 164 for 8. The Barmy Army were in full cry by now and Bay 13 (the Aussie equivalent) less than happy. They certainly can't sing as well as ours, although I'm not sure that is any recommendation. Peter did offer to give his own rendition of Jerusalem, but at the risk of being ejected for 'A Behavioural Offence', I managed to dissuade him. Any form of anti social behaviour is dealt with strongly, with an ejection, ban and heavy fine. Lessons could be learned across the world !
    There were some fantastic costumes on view both yesterday and today. A gorilla suit would have been tame in this neck of the woods. They go for flamboyant with a capital F.
    At last for the first time in the series England finished the day on top. Too late of course with the little urn already lost, but at least they have finally shown some fight and resolve.
    The temperature is due to soar to 38 degrees tomorrow, so we will do other things and keep an eye on TV, hoping to return to the fray on the 4th day.
    Sorry girls this is a report for the chaps in the main. Normal service will be resumed soon.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Federation Square
    Typical decoration in the lanesOne of the Victorian ArcadesOld Warehouses now convertedModern MelbourneThe MCG from the bridge over the Yarra RiverThe Melbourne skyline peeping over the Botanic Garden treetops

    Melbourne

    December 28, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    St Kilda, Victoria, Australia
    Saturday, December 28, 2013

    It has been hot, hot, hot today. In the top 30s for most of the day, so we had a rest day from the cricket and decided to explore Melbourne, or at least as much as one can do in a day. I think the cricket score by the close of play justified that decision, (ghastly yet again) but Peter will attend tomorrow, whilst I sort out for the move to Sydney.
    My initial impression of Melbourne, during the pre Christmas rush was far from favourable, but I have revised that somewhat today. Like Adelaide, this is a very liveable city. There is lots of green space, sporting facilities, with the harbour and beaches in close proximity. Architecturally it is a mix of early eighteenth century warehouses, Victorian Gothic revival, Edwardian villas festooned with intricate ironwork, mixed together with the ultra modern statement buildings. It does have a soul the more one sees of it and reflects the mix of British roots and the Australian no nonsense outdoor life to perfection.
    Despite the heat we tackled one of the planned walking routes, taking us through the old part of the city from Federation Square, looping up and back again. It was extremely interesting and had the advantage of us being able to duck inside for a drink and respite from the ever rising temperatures. There are several Victorian arcades, plus some newer ones, which of course work perfectly in a city of extreme heat. Well I say that, but in truth Melbourne has a reputation for the sort of changeable weather that we are used to in the UK, just more extreme. The city does receive a high rainfall for Australia and there can be enormous fluctuations in temperature as we found out today.
    Following our walk we wandered to the Southbank on the Yarra River and could take a great long range shot of the MGC from the bridge spanning it. We finished the day of exploration by taking the tram back towards St Kilda and dropping off at yet another Botanic Gardens for a green fix! It was an uphill walk from the tram stop and by the time we arrived at the visitor centre, we were dripping. Restorative measures were called for and the locally made ice cream beckoned. Peter went for his usual coffee and I had Turkish Delight, which was indeed a delight of creamy subtle flavour. Suitably recovered we ventured out into the garden. I suppose we had been indoors for perhaps 45 mins and to our shock the wind had whipped up out of nowhere and the temperature had dropped by a good 15 degrees. This is not unusual for these parts I understand. The gardens were lovely in a structural Capability Brown sort of way, but without the colour of others we have visited. There were beautiful views of the modern city scape soaring over the tree tops, which I think occurs all over Melbourne, because of the many green spaces built in.
    We arrived back in St Kilda footsore and quite happy to relax back at the apartment, which is incidentally called Arcadia, for the evening.
    In postscript, one thing I should refer to has been the nightly after dark entertainment, put on for our benefit. What energy these Australians have! The first night we were here we were awoken by what seemed to be a herd of elephants on the roof, in the courtyard, we could not work out where. They seemed to be all around. I know that Karen had said they had a cat, but this was ridiculous. We lay there petrified, talking in whispers above the cacophony, which eventually died away. This has been the score most nights, sometimes accompanied by screeching and loud hissing. You have probably gathered, it's possums on the nightly prowl. They are a real pest, destroying vegetation and at epidemic proportions I gather. Of all things they are a protected species here, unlike in New Zealand where they are trying desperately to rid themselves of their uninvited guests, because of the number of flightless birds they take. I would quite happily have shot the two on our roof last night, pesky little blighters! On that pure English note, I will sign off, resuming in Sydney in a couple of days time.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Manley High Street
    Manley Beach looking towards the headlandOur super Manley apartmentAssembling for New Year Fireworks

    New Year Down Under

    December 31, 2013 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Tuesday, December 31, 2013

    Hello again! We are now in Manley and for those of you saying 'Where?' It is a suburb of Sydney. We flew into Sydney yesterday and it must be the way to arrive, by plane and during the day. It does give a wonderful view of Sydney's magnificent setting, sprawled around its deep water harbour with all it's inlets and coves. It is surprisingly green and houses cling to the hillsides with sea views to die for. We are staying in Manley, which is set on a peninsula, with Sydney Harbour on one side and the Ocean on the other. The ocean bay is renowned for its surfing and there has been plenty of that going on today. The beaches have been packed from early morning. There have been picnics and BBQs and a general Aussie outdoor celebration.
    We are here for a week, staying in an apartment, 50 yds from the beach. It is gorgeous and we will be very comfortable undoubtedly. Manley is buzzy and a great place to experience life in Australia. We love it and it is only 30 mins by ferry to Circular Quay. We plan to go over tomorrow and begin our exploration of the city itself.
    Obviously, the cricket will raise it's ugly head once more. We'll have to go, not even a tout will want our tickets at this stage.
    I'm writing this approaching Midnight on New Years Eve. You know we are getting old as we have chosen to stay in Manley, instead of joining the thousands in the city itself. In truth, mainly because once there at 6.30pm (last ferry in) there is no way back unless you walk, swim or are lucky enough to fight off the hoards for a taxi, or wait for the early morning ferry. However, we are very happy, having had a great meal at an award winning fish restaurant called 'Garfish' and then stayed to watch the Manley fireworks at 9pm from the wharf. They were pretty spectacular in themselves. The 9pm fireworks on the harbour were visible over the headland and we have now wandered home and settled back in our armchairs with a glass of something sparkly to see in the New Year and watch the main show on TV. By the way the TV buildup here is as pathetic as at home.
    It is now 3 mins to midnight and I'd better finish by wishing you all a very Happy New Year and all the best for 2014 from Down Under! Enjoy yourselves wherever you are and we look forward to seeing you again in the New Year.

    PS. Half past midnight. Just fabulous, quite unlike anything I've ever seen. Something to think about - fifteen minutes of spectacle    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Leaving Manley Wharf
    Sydney Opera House from the waterHaving passed under the BridgeThe iconic Opera House in close upThe tilesSydney Harbour Bridge

    Sydney

    January 1, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Wednesday, January 1, 2014

    This morning was quiet, not many people about and one or two semi comatose in odd places - can't think what's been going on? By lunchtime things were perking up and we began to wish more had been semi comatosed for longer! We took the Manley ferry into Circular Quay, which does give the most amazing view of the harbour as you cross it and the waterfront on the approach to the wharf. Here are all the iconic vistas you have dreamt about, the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and that famous skyline. Sydney was founded as a penal colony in 1788, when 11 convict ships arrived via Botany Bay (proved too inhospitable). The settlement was named Sydney Cove (now Circular Quay), after Viscount Sydney, the then Secretary of State in Great Britain and the new colony nearly starved to death on several ocassions in the first three years. It would be the early 1800s before Sydney became a stable colony and busy trading post and with the arrival of the reformist Governor Lachlan Macquarie things never looked back.
    The ferry delivers on the aspect Sydney is undoubtedly most famous for, it's harbour setting and the best views are certainly from the water. It is a spectacular city and yet again extremely liveable, in common with Melbourne, with the addition that Sydney's climate is more equable. Only having the day to fix some sort of overview, on advice, we decided to take the Red Explorer Bus, which allows one to jump on and off at will. In theory a good plan, in practice a shambles. There were far too many stops, some of which lasted for over 5 minutes, the commentary was so pathetic, I could have done better after a nights study with the guidebook and a detailed city map and no one seemed to have the vaguest clue what was going on. In short don't bother with it whatever you do. I suppose we did obtain a rudimentary overview of the city, but at the price of being thoroughly disgruntled at the end of it. The arch complainer is composing an email to the Rough Guide as we speak, having already let the tourist office know his views. Well, he has been away from home for over two months and there has been nothing to complain about up to now. A chap has got to vent his spleen from time to time. I'm just grateful it's not in my direction!!
    A strong coffee was urgently required and from there we walked around Circular Quay to the Opera House. Now this is a tour de force and even more stunning in real life than photographs suggest. It was designed by Jorn Utzon, a Danish Architect and like all things that are ahead of their time, was not without controversary. It was completed in 1973 and opened by Queen Elizabeth. It resembles a ship in full sail on its promontory out into the Harbour and almost seems to float on the water glistening in the sunlight. The effect is due to thousands of white tiles that clad it's exterior and despite the fact that you have seen so many photographs of this world class building and feel you almost know it so well, it is still breathtaking at first sight and close to. I hope to have time later in the week to take one of the tours inside.
    As if this wasn't sufficient, you turn round and there is the charismatic Harbour Bridge looking down on you. Locally it is nicknamed the coat hanger and you can see why. It is possible to do a bridge climb to the top, dressed up in the supplied appropriate gear. I'm thinking about that, heights and water are not my thing and here are the two combined in a terrifying prospect. Valium could be required to get me up there and after the kayak experience, I'm suitably cautious.
    We have obviously only just touched the surface today and will go back to investigate more later in the week. We returned to Manley on the ferry about 6pm and as we streamed off along with everyone else, I happened to glance to my left. To my surprise I saw someone I knew, or that was my instant reaction. It was Alistair Cooke the England cricket captain. He had been approached by a couple of fans and was posing for photos. He was very charming and affable and didn't appear to have the weight of the world on his shoulders! Shorter, slimmer and better looking than on TV, he and his wife were met at the wharf by a black 4x4 and driven away. How's that for coincidence and a surprise end to a special day.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Richard outlining the day over coffee
    The grounds of Peppers Guest House-classic Hunter valley vegetationTyrells original homestead still in useThe interior of the homesteadThe Engine Room!Tyrells vineyard and the grapes are ripe!The Tower Estate restaurant and our lunch stopA modern Hunter Valley wineryA magnificent Plumbago- just an incidental!

    The Hunter Valley

    January 2, 2014 in Australia ⋅ 20 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Thursday, January 2, 2014

    The Grape Escape has raised its ugly head once more! We were picked up this morning at 8am by Richard Everett of Wine Country Tours for an exploration of some of the wines in the Hunter Valley. Matt and Selina organised this for us as a Christmas present and a great day it proved to be.
    This wine region is just over two hours driving time by road from Sydney and it is a beautiful drive, as you skirt the Blue Mountains, before entering the valley proper. The landscape is very typically Australian, lots of eucalyptus, grasses and drought resistant plants, names unknown by the author, but well managed and attractive. Obviously there are cellar doors and vines everywhere, plus some seriously good restaurants, guest houses, hotels etc. This is definitely an area to go on the list for further exploration if one ever has the chance. We pulled into the The Peppers Guest House for coffee and biscuits and sat outside on the verandah, whilst Richard explained the days plan in this magnificent setting. When I say we, I should explain that this consisted of a group of nine of us. An adult family group from the US, ( father originally from Leeds), three young ladies from the Melbourne area and us of course. It was a very friendly and informed group and the conversation flowed easily.
    We moved on to the Tyrrell Winery, which was founded by one Edward Tyrrell from Berkshire. He planted the first vines here in 1828, probably as part of a general horticultural experiment to see what his land would cope with. These were the first vines to be planted in the Hunter Valley and they are still cropping to this day, smaller quantities, but of superb quality. The winery is now being run by the fifth generation and we were lucky enough to meet the oenologist (wine maker) Andrew Spinaze, who has been with the Tyrrells for over 30 years. We were taken to inspect the grapes hanging ripening on the vines. They are growing on strong red clay and are never watered. Did you know that a vines roots can permeate the soil by up to 20 feet? I was astonished. Andrew expects to start harvesting around the 13th and then it will be all hands to the wheel, but in the meantime he's heading to the cricket tomorrow! All morning, the temperature had continued to climb, until it was by now approaching forty degrees. We stood in the vineyard with a hot breeze blowing off the mountains and it was like being buffeted by an enthusiastic hair dryer! Fortunately, we were then taken through the cellars and shown the processes the wine goes through before it becomes that silky beverage so prized by us all. Here it was cool and temperature controlled, cooler for the whites than the reds of course and finally we were shown into the Tyrrell's original house, that has been preserved very much as it was originally and is now used for private tastings. The house was built of wood, tin lined, with further newspaper lining on the walls for insulation, before being distempered. They used what was available and survival was finely balanced. The wines were superb across the board and we tasted, compared and contrasted Semillon, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet, all from this one winery. The family own land in other wine growing regions, but the wine is made here. It is apparently very common in Australia to pick and must the 'berries' as they are referred to and then tanker the product in its raw state to the mother winery, for the wine to be made there. It is not unheard of for the must to be brought in temperature controlled vats from Western Australia to the Hunter Valley for production. This will take two drivers, driving in relay, five days.
    Lunch was taken at the Tower Estate, restaurant. Another 1800s building of great interest and the food was superb. All organic and locally sourced and the vegetables grown in their own vegetable plot.
    We moved on to a contrasting young winery called Hungerford Hill, which is only 40 years old. The winemaker here is experimental in his approach, knowing that they need to find a niche and it is no good trying to compete with the likes of the Tyrrells. Again, very good wines of a quite different feel. Once you have your taste buds in, you can taste the youth of the vines in the glass. There is no magic in wine production, it is all in the soil, grape, and weather conditions that year.
    Richard is extremely knowledgeable on his subject and life's passion and yet is an excellent communicator and managed to make the whole day fun. It was fascinating, as apart from the tastings, the discussion encompassed commerciality, boutique productions, cork versus screw cap, climate change etc etc. We arrived home about 7.30pm, hot, bothered and pleasantly mellow, but absolutely delighted with what has to be our best Grape Escape to date. Cheers to you all!!    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Awaiting the start of the Sydney Test
    The youngsters at lunchtimeShe is enormous!On our way back The Diamond Princess has docked at Circular Quay

    The SCG test

    January 3, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Friday, January 3, 2014

    Are we gluttons for punishment or what? This morning, we caught the 8.50am ferry from Manley to make our way to the SCG for the beginning of the fifth and final test against Australia. We met up with some others we had chatted to in Melbourne, who are also part of the MCC contingent and I have to say it was all a bit doom and gloom. We were telling one chap about bumping into Alistair Cook the other evening and he grunted and said to Peter ' I hope you managed to avoid shaking his hand!'. Boys!! On a more positive note, It is another fantastic ground. Not in the same league as the MCG to be fair, but more of a traditional cricket ground with a pavilion. There were just over 45,000 present today and I would have said it was not quite full. I don't think any of the English fans have much hope of any sort of comeback, but for the only time in the series Alistair Cook did win the toss and put the Australians in to bat. It was overcast and humid and so he obviously felt England could bowl the Aussies out cheaply. It half came off, as we certainly won the morning session and had them 97 for 5 just after lunch and hopes were higher. Sadly, it could not be maintained and Haddin and Smith consolidated well, although we did bowl them all out by 5.30. We decided to take our leave at that point to avoid the rush for home. Peter was confident Cook and Carbury could hold out for 20 mins. I was not so sure. No prizes for guessing who was right!
    We returned to Circular Quay for the ferry home and following a conversation I had had during the day with another cricket widow, we called on the off chance at the Opera House, to enquire if there was any chance of two tickets for La Boheme tomorrow evening. A bit of a long shot, but to our joy we are in possession of two good seats and my cup runneth over! What a treat to be able to listen to some Puccini in this amazing building. An unexpected bonus and the icing on the cake.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Approaching The Opera House at night
    La Boheme and friend......The Bridge from the Top Bar-magical!

    La Boheme

    January 4, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Saturday, January 4, 2014

    I'm reluctant to say too much about the test match as I might have to reach for the sick bag. Poor Peter left this morning for yet another endurance test and I had a housekeeping day. I remembered to put on the TV about 11.45 am and nearly had a fit, as England were 56 for 5 and as you know it had been worse than that. We met on Circular Quay at 6pm to have supper before attending La Boheme and I heard the full litany of woes. All is undoubtedly lost and one almost feels the team, apart from the odd exception have thrown in the towel, which is deplorable. So much for the hefty wage increase before the touring party left, that was certainly justified! I feel desperately for the many loyal fans who have worked and saved to take the trip out to Australia and support England. Attending the Ashes here has been a fabulous experience for us and we have loved every minute of it despite the results. If the series had been more of a contest everyone would have been happier. Loosing is one thing, but not showing up is something else entirely. There are undoubtedly things afoot behind the scene, which will out at some point I'm sure.
    However, from the ridiculous to the sublime, La Boheme at the Opera House tonight was exactly that. We arrived in plenty of time and met a couple of MCC friends in the bar. It was they who had tipped us off that it might be worth enquiring about tickets and we are forever in their debt. The building itself is as amazing inside as out. Lots of polished concrete, wood and glass. Sounds ghastly, but that is far from the case. It has an atmosphere and look that is quite unique. The performance took place in the largest of the auditoria, the Joan Sutherland Theatre. Marvellous acoustics. It is an unusual shape, modern in the extreme, and as the house lights dimmed, a single spotlight played on the deep red velvet curtain, which had a sparkly La Boheme picked out across the centre. The mist from the 'garrett' swirled through that beam of light and shivers ran up your spine before we were even underway. The cast was extremely well balanced and of course the music beautiful. Rudolfo was sung by a Korean with an unpronounceable name and the setting was glamorous and very Belle Époque. There were several more spine tingling moments as the famous arias were delivered faultlessly and the applause at the finale was justifiably long and enthusiastic. During the interval, we went up to the Top Bar of the Opera House for a glass of something sparkling to mark the occasion and we were transfixed by the view laid out before us via the glass wall. Here was Sydney Harbour at night at its magical best, a brilliantly lit Harbour Bridge and city radiating out around the bay in all it's glory and it is a sight that will remain with us to our dying day. The Opera House is an iconic building that will probably never loose that edgy feel and we were certainly thrilled to have had the opportunity to attend a live operatic performance tonight.
    As Mary so eloquently commented to us in her email today, 'better to be miserable in your garrett, than at the cricket.' Enough said and spot on! At least it was a superb end to a disappointing day.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Shelly Beach, Manley
    Around the HeadlandThe glorious Frangipani on our terrace

    Last Chance Manley

    January 5, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Manly, New South Wales, Australia
    Sunday, January 5, 2014

    A short report today, as for once we have had a chill out day (makes a change, I know). We move on early in the morning to the airport and Hamilton Island, so we have been sorting out the apartment and watching the cricket on the TV. This afternoon, we took a walk to Shelly beach and over the headland. The views back to Manley and the bays beyond were lovely. It was a warm sunny day and the beaches were packed. This is a great area to stay if you are in the Sydney area and we would definitely revisit if we get the chance. All around this coast is a marine reserve and there were lots of people diving and snorkeling. Suddenly, in the middle of it all appeared a couple of dolphins. They circled and played for ages in very shallow water and were a joy to watch. It apparently is not uncommon to see them and it was certainly a bonus today. We arrived back at the apartment, put the kettle on and turned on the TV to catch up with the cricket. I heard Peter say 'What the ...........' as the last wicket went down. We hadn't been gone that long. They were all out in 32 overs. Unbelievable and I won't sully your ears with Peter's comments. Suffice it to say they weren't complimentary! The SCG did look a picture though on Jane McGrath Day, all decked out in pink, the Foundation's colours and that included the majority of the crowd, who had managed to find something pink to wear in the charity's honour. It was I guess, a great day for Australia to regain the Ashes and one cannot say they did not deserve it. Congratulations Oz!Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Lunch on arrival
    One of the many beautiful beachesThe A frame studiosReady to go!The Wedding GazeboThe WhitsundaysThe Marina

    Hamilton Island

    January 7, 2014 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Shute Harbour, Queensland, Australia
    Tuesday, January 7, 2014

    Well here we are in Paradise, or Hamilton Island as it is known. We flew in from Sydney yesterday morning, emerging from the aircraft into brilliant sunshine and a tropical scene.
    The Island sits in the middle of the Whitsunday Islands, just off the Queensland coast, and is a really good jumping off point to visit the Great Barrier Reef. It is not a large Island and has been lightly developed ( 30%) as a tourist resort, the vast majority of it being in a wild National Park state. The original project was the brainchild of one Barry Williams, who ran into financial difficulties quite early on and could not complete his vision. The Island was bought by Robert Oatley of 'Wild Oats' sailing fame ( his yacht has just won the Sydney to Hobart race for the sixth year running). He sailed around the Island and bought it lock stock and barrel without further ado having nor even put one foot on dry land. What a decision. He made his fortune in wine and his Island venture can have done him no harm either.
    We are staying in an A framed bungalow, which is charmingly decorated and surrounded by tropical planting. There are no cars for rental here, but you can hire a golf buggy to drive yourself around and that we have done today to orientate ourselves and look round the area. There are some beautifully landscaped pools all around and the beach is just gorgeous fringed by Palm trees. Even Peter, who is no fan of a beach, had to admit it was a bit special. There is a large Marina, full of state of the art yachts that could cope with several cases of gin each! Lots of small boutique type shops and a plethora of activities to take part in both on and off the water. Over on nearby Dent Island is a Championship Golf course, designed by Peter Thompson, that a ferry will take you to for your game. It is apparently very fine, but it would have been hot work today. Some of the properties here are simply spectacular. Mostly with a sea view and immaculately kept. This is serious millionaire country if you are wishing to buy. Peter's comment was as follows; 'what would you do after a week? '. Difficult for him to visualise I realise, as one who is permanently on the move and seldom sits anywhere for more than half an hour at a time, unless he is playing bridge or watching sport! We took our little buggy up to One Tree Point, which has a commanding view out over the azure sea, dotted with the Whitsundays. It was a glorious spot and a small white gazebo was being set up for a wedding ceremony this afternoon. I cannot think of a more beautiful venue for the most important moment of your life. The wedding party was small and the reception was held by the pool at the resort centre on the beach this evening. We had supper in an open airy restaurant on the beach tonight, with the waves breaking gently on the shore and white cockatoos flying in and out of the palm trees.
    Just magical.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Approaching the Hardy Reef pontoon
    Reef LifeCoral BedGetting ready to swimHelp!!

    The Great Barrier Reef

    January 8, 2014, Coral Sea

    Shute Harbour, Queensland, Australia
    Wednesday, January 8, 2014

    We have had some amazing days in the last two months and today has been up there with the best of them. As part of our visit to Hamilton Island, two trips were included and this morning we departed to the Great Barrier Reef at 9am sharp from the Marina. Yes I know, water yet again, but it couldn't be avoided as you will see. Our vessel was called the Sea Horse and was a large ocean going catamaran with every facility. The Sea Horse left Hamilton Harbour and headed north through the Whitsunday Passage. On 3 June 1770 Lt. James Cook sailed up the East coast of New Holland, as Australia was then known and through this body of water and its large group of Islands, naming it the Whitsunday Passage, as it was the 7th Sunday after Easter (White Sunday). He named only one Island, Pentecost, in honour of the feast of Pentecost.
    It is a two hour voyage, across the Coral Sea, out to Reefworld, which is a permanent purpose built pontoon on Hardy Reef and I'm delighted to report that it was a calm, sunny journey! As the boat draws near to the pontoon, the sea colour starts to change to a light sea green, indicating that the water is shallow and that is all there is to indicate that one of the great wonders of the world is under your feet. The Great Barrier Reef extends for 2,300 kms and comprises a network of some 2,900 individual reefs, with the same overall area as the UK! The reefs are made up of corals, living colonies of organisms, similar to jellyfish, but they are attached to a skeleton of secreted limestone. They will only flourish in warm waters receiving high light levels. Along this coast is a shallow continental shelf 20-30 mtrs deep, which has given the Great Barrier Reef chance to develop. It is a gigantic Marine Park that over 1500 species of fish call home and is an environment that is continually under threat from climate change and pollution.
    There are a variety of activities you can pursue whilst on the pontoon, from sunbathing on the upper deck, to scuba diving, snorkelling, sitting in the underwater viewing observatory, riding in the semi submersible with the resident marine biologist or even a helicopter flight to admire the reef from above. The time passes very quickly. We took a ride in the sub and marvelled at the variety of corals visible and the teeming fish just everywhere. The underwater observatory was equally fascinating and you soon felt yourself drawn into an underwater world of such diversity and complexity, that the term 'the Wonder of the Deep' floated into the mind.
    At 1 o’clock came the moment of truth. It was time for the snorkel safari that we had signed up for, heavy legal disclaimer and all. I hope you are sitting down and if you are not, please do so, this is not for the faint hearted! It was time to don the wetsuits, which are a protective measure against a killer jellyfish called the Irukandji. My mind was instantly taken back to the kayak skirt incident. Getting the damn thing on was even more tortuous, because here you had a whole body Spanx suit as opposed to a skirt. Peter struggled into his only to find he had it on back to front and had to strip it off and start again! As you can imagine this took a while. The end result was of course riveting, particularly when you look around and realise that, with the exception of one other couple, you are the oldest there and most of the young things cavorting about looking svelte in skin tight Lycra are young enough to be your children at least. A thought provoking moment. Next came the flippers. They look innocuous enough don't they? They are fiends, so tight as to almost impossible to get on alone and once on inclined to give one cramp. The final piece de resistance is of course the mask and snorkel itself. Now this should and must be waterproof and in order to achieve such a state it seems to me that It is essential to cut off all circulation to the face. Our instructor was a lovely lad called Tom. He had the longest dark eyelashes I've ever seen on a man. Strange the trivia you notice and focus on in moments of extreme panic. However, I thought they might be long enough to grab on to if all else failed. Poor Tom had clearly weighed up the situation in a flash and whipped out a life jacket with one hand and a large flotation ring with the other. Clearly the thought of being squeezed to death by
    a stressed out grandmother was something to be avoided at all costs! Down to the diving platform we went and drill was gone through, before the moment of truth. One had to slip gracefully off the ledge into the water, whilst trying to remember to breathe through the snorkel. I was terrified and only the thought of letting everyone down and failing to do the task I had set myself got me into the water. To those of you who are good swimmers this will be incomprehensible, but please bear in mind that I can only manage a steady head up breast stroke and treading water has always been beyond me. I clung on to that ring for grim death. Tense wasn't the word for it. 'Relax' says Tom and 'put your face in the water to look at the reef'. Peter did brilliantly and was away. It took me ten minutes to follow Tom's instructions. but when I had finally found the courage from somewhere, it was worth every panic stricken moment. He guided us around the reef explaining as he went. I couldn't move much (paralysed with fear), looking down was one thing, moving anything, quite another. The one advantage was the little fish of brilliant hues thought I was an inanimate object and swam right up to my mask to investigate. I was entranced. We saw coral of all sorts, shoals of beautiful fish, clams and sea anemones with their own resident Nemos(clown fish). We were so thrilled. It was magical. Mind you I wouldn't have seen a thing if that poor lad hadn't towed me round bless him. He deserves a medal. After half an hour I felt I was beginning to get the hang of it and could breathe, look down and perhaps waggle one foot. Then came getting into the inflatable dingy for the ride back to the pontoon. If only you had had a camcorder. It took three of them before I was finally sprawled like a beached whale in the bottom of the thing laughing like a maniac. Well what else could you do but laugh at your own idiocy.
    This was a challenge for both Peter and I, but you don't come half way round the world and be on top of one of the marvels of the world to go home annoyed with yourself for being such a coward. WE DID IT and once more it is a memory to savour.
    The wind freshened on the way back and yes, you've guessed it, out came the sick bags again, but we were on such a high, we didn't even feel queasy. How's that for a triumphant end to a spine tingling day at the Great Barrier Reef.

    PS There were three other ladies in our group with the intrepid Tom. Caroline, a GPs wife from Ely who emigrated to Tasmania 6 yrs ago ( the family that is) and two other girls from London, one of whose family home is at Newmarket! Yet again - small world.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    A novel arrival on the beach!
    Turquoise ocean as far as the eye can seeLook at those swimmers!Can you spot the Monitor Lizard?The return journeyOur final meal on the island

    The Whitsundays

    January 9, 2014, Coral Sea

    Hamilton Island, Queensland, Australia
    Thursday, January 9, 2014

    It was another early rising and as we went to breakfast at 7am we were passed by the runners taking advantage of the slightly cooler morning to put miles under their belts. Mad fools. Still, the humidity was probably only 60% so they would return looking like a single grease spot as opposed to a double. This morning's vessel was called the Orca and we rushed upstairs to grab our favourite seats on top for the views, but under the awning for shade. We drew out of the harbour at 8.15 and were deposited on Whitehaven beach by 9am. You know how fond Peter is of beaches, he couldn't believe he was ankle deep in the dreaded sand so early in the morning. The unspoiled beach is part of The Whitehaven National Park and is over 7 kms long and has pure white fine sand. It is part of Whitsunday Island, which is the largest of the 74 Islands in the group. The bush grows right down to the beach, so there is plenty of natural shade to be had and when we arrived there was no one else there. That changed as the morning went on and by the time we departed at lunchtime it was busy with boats and people enjoying the surroundings.
    Did you know that the beautiful fine white sand, so prized by us humans, is in fact parrot fish poo? No, I thought not! The parrot fish zealously guards it's patch of coral on the reef and harvests the algae growing on it for food. Almost inevitably small pieces of the limestone skeleton get broken off in the process and the fish grinds them down to fine particles that are excreted from it's other end. So, the next time you allow the sand to trickle through your fingers on a romantic beach somewhere, just remember where it came from. It only goes to prove that one man's rubbish is another man's treasure! The parrot fish also acts as the the car wash of the reef. It will remove parasites and algae from other resident fish, who will wait in line for their turn!
    The sea was warm, clear and a beautiful pale turquoise, but the dreaded little stingers were around, so once more wetsuits were handed out as we left the boat, with strict instructions ringing in our ears to use them when swimming. Apparently if you are stung, you have 45 mins to obtain treatment before it's curtains. A salutary thought and so once more it was the struggle into the Spanx suits, made all the more tricky by sand everywhere. You can imagine PL cursing under his breath! But at least he got the thing on the right way round this time, apart from trying to put his legs in the sleeves! Picture the scene, beautiful natural beach stretching as far as the eye can see and all these black Lycra clad forms cavorting in the surf. Just to add to the effect, these suits had hoods. Umm.....even more fetching, particularly when you add a pair of goggles. That sea water stings you know. This is certainly not a photoshoot for the tourist brochures, unless it's of the kinky variety, but I think that should be leather not Lycra!! It was a glorious morning frolic and even Peter enjoyed it, which is unusual when it comes to beaches. Imagine though, taking the wet suit off again without getting it covered in sand. It proved impossible, so I then had to go down to the water to rinse them off, which rather defeated the object I thought. We hung them over a convenient tree branch to dry off and noticed a rustling in the undergrowth. To Peter's horror and my delight a 3ft monitor lizard slithered out on to a log and just sat there basking in the sun. He was a magnificent creature, completely unfazed by his audience and once I'd got my eye in there was another smaller version close by. I watched them for ages and have taken some photos that I will include, but I warn you, he is so well camouflaged you may struggle to spot him. The boat collected us about midday and we cruised back around the Whitsunday Islands, which are truly beautiful and we arrived back at the Marina in time for a late lunch.
    We have booked our favourite Italian for supper tonight and I'm about to set to and sort out the cases ready to move on tomorrow morning. Our short, but stunning sojourn in the Whitsundays is all too quickly coming to a close. We catch the ferry to Airlie Beach on the mainland, collect a car and drive ourselves up the coast road to Cairns, staying at Townsville overnight. We are in the Cairns area for our last two weeks and plan to chill, so we at least come home part rested! See you later........as they say in these parts.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Our great coffee stop
    The Boss!

    Moving On

    January 11, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Townsville City, Queensland, Australia
    Saturday, January 11, 2014

    We awoke to pouring rain on our final Hamilton Island morning, but luckily for us being a moving day, it wasn't vital. You could certainly tell we were English in the queue for the Airlie Beach ferry. There were only two passengers wearing wet weather gear, everyone else was in shorts and flip flops! Luckily for us, despite the rain, the crossing to the mainland was calm and we picked up our car and headed north on the 'Bruce' Highway. What I want to know is, where's Sheila's?
    The coastal strip of sub tropical Queensland is a centre for sugar cane production and plantations and old railways lines that transport the cut crop criss cross the area. There are tomato and mango farms, plus coffee plantations,which took me by surprise. We were not far out of Airlie Beach when we came across an advertising hoarding inviting the traveller to take a break and sample the Whitsunday Coffee Company's brew. It was lunchtime and a decent cup of coffee is hard to find on this side of the world. We stopped at this quirky little cafe, complete with resident white cockatoo known as ‘the Boss’. Here, the coffee plants are grown, the beans picked, processed, roasted and ground before eventually finding the cup with great effect. Add a warm freshly made spinach and ricotta muffin and you have the essence of a first class lunch. We drove on amidst the odd shower for about 250 kms before reaching Townsville, our stop for the night. We wandered the centre looking for a suitable restaurant and eventually settled on a Mexican Cantina, as the best of a bad lot. The margarita at least was first class. Deciding we would like a drink, we wandered around attempting to find an establishment that looked as if it might accept anyone over the age of 30, with little success. Defeated, we decamped to the hotel bar, only to find it shut for the night at 9.45pm!! At this point we had two choices, room service or the pole dancing club on the corner, which did appear to welcome a more mature clientele!? I'll leave it to your imaginations as to which one won out!
    More rain this morning, but again it was a travelling day. Boy did it rain on the way up to Cairns and by the looks of the forecast we have not seen the end of it. Oh well, we have been so lucky up till now. Sugar is definitely king in Queensland and grown as far as the eye can see. As we drove further north, banana plantations started to be interspersed amongst the sugar cane, the hands of bananas bagged on the trees ready for harvesting. There is a high Italian base to the communities, as there was mass migration to this part of Australia at the end of the 1800s to work in the sugar fields. It shows in the delis and eateries we observed in the settlements we passed through.
    We have reached the part of the trip when R&R is in the ascendancy and I may not have so much to say, for fear of boring you all! So, do not be surprised if reports are less frequent.
    I'll sign off for now and speak later.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia

    Tropical North Queensland

    January 14, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Yorkeys Knob, Queensland, Australia
    Tuesday, January 14, 2014

    The Monsoon has arrived, well, nearly. Apparently, it won't completely set in for another couple of weeks according to the locals. It has certainly rained since we arrived on Saturday and I mean rain, buckets full of it, falling sheet like from a leaden sky. You would be soaked to the skin in seconds, but rather like a tap, as quickly as it is turned on, it is turned off in an instant. The key is to avoid the downpours. One thing to bear in mind is that it is still really hot (30 ish), which from our point of view makes it acceptable. Other parts of the country are in the low 40s, so we feel quite cool here!
    We are staying just north of Cairns, on one of the northern beach settlements, called Yorkeys Knob. The Knob is a rocky headland tumbling down to the sea sheltering Half Moon Bay and Yorkey was a rough tough Yorkshireman, who lived on the headland and achieved a degree of notoriety here in the late 1800s. Such is the story that often lies behind the naming of any village, township or city.
    This section of coastline edges a narrow rich coastal flatland, running from a marvellous mountain range down to the Coral Sea and the Northern end of the Great Barrier Reef. It is full of natural beauty and remarkably unspoiled I'm delighted to say.
    Cairns is the largest conurbation, which is called a city here, but in truth is no more than a large King's Lynn, but with a sea view and without the historic content. Being so close to the Barrier Reef, it is the launching point of many trips to the Reef and is essentially tourist driven. I'm glad we decided to base ourselves amongst the Northern Beaches. A city is a city in anyone's language, it is just a question of degree.
    We had supper last night and tonight at the local Boat Club out on the deck, which is shaded/ sheltered by a large awning. The view of the coast and Marina is lovely and the food really good. It is immensely popular and busy and we were taken by surprise yesterday, being too late to book a table, but were told we could come along and sign in as a temporary member and eat on the bar verandah. We followed instructions, but all the tables were taken and we were hovering just wondering what to do, when something happened that could only take place here in Australia. A guy, who subsequently introduced himself as Adrian, jumped up and invited us to join him and his 'mate' at their table. " I can see you are Poms visiting (how did he know?) and we can't let you sit on your own". This encapsulates the friendliness and lack of reserve that personifies this land and is part of what makes Australia so special. We had a great night and returned the favour tonight, entertaining Adrian and Marty at steak night. The steaks were perfectly cooked and the suggested Barossa Valley Shiraz complimented them perfectly. Both 'mates' work at the local James Cook University, which is a satellite of Melbourne Uni. Adrian is a real character, a retired policeman from Sydney, who has reinvented himself in HR at the university. A no nonsense personality, he must be a breath of fresh air in academia, but is clearly greatly appreciated in his role. Marty, his mate, is a scientist (an entomologist to be precise) and is involved in a research project to neutralise dengue fever, initially in tropical Australia, but ultimately world wide over the next ten years. ( to my astonishment, there can be up to 1500 cases a year here). They have pioneered the injection of a parasitic bacteria into the mosquito, which prevents the mosi passing on the fever to it's offspring and when the insects die, the fever virus dies with it. It is very exciting research and they are on the brink of proving its efficacy to the scientific world. Uptake elsewhere is already beginning and Marty spoke eloquently and passionately about his hopes for the project. Adrian listened to all this with an air of resignation before saying out of his mate's hearing " clever bloke, but does go on some!" And all we did was take ourselves out to supper at the Boat Club.    Read more

  • The Travel BugTravelerGrape Escape - Australia
    Hot Wet & Beautiful
    Spot the birdie?

    The Cattana Wetlands

    January 15, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Yorkeys Knob, Queensland, Australia
    Wednesday, January 15, 2014

    It has been a quiet day today, but we did take time out to visit the Cattana Wetlands, a 60 hectare site close by. It has been developed from a an old sugar cane farm owned by one Franco Cattana. The farm was sold and gravel extracted leaving flooded quarry lakes, a perfect spot for wildlife and tropical rain forest. there are butterflies galore and we hadn't been there 5 minutes before we spotted two electric blue Ulysses butterflies. They are huge, probably close on 4inches across and quite a sight flitting in amongst the trees. We watched a variety of birds on the water lily covered lakes, including the diving Darter and the comb-crested Jakana picking its way over the lily pads with great care, looking for lunch no doubt.
    It is a quiet peaceful spot, providing you keep you eye out for the odd python and crocodile that have been known to frequent the area. It's the perfect habitat you see. We kept strictly to the middle of all paths and away from the water's edge just in case!
    Later on this afternoon, I came upon the following, which struck a chord and I'm going to print it here, as much as anything, to prevent me from loosing the scrap of paper and thence it is gone forever.

    Live with Intention
    Walk to the Edge
    Listen Hard
    Practice Wellness
    Play with Abandon
    Laugh
    Choose with no Regret
    Continue to Learn
    Appreciate your Friends
    Do what you Love
    Love as if that is all There Is.

    And on that philosophical note I'll say Nite Nite!    Read more

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