Lake Como and Bellagio

The day had dawned cloudy and grey, as our small group of five, plus a guide made our way to the 9.30am ferry that would take us across Lake Como to Bellagio and our first garden visit. The ferry is the best option for traversing the lake, as distances by road can be tortuous. Lake Como is long, narrow, deep and outstandingly beautiful; dotted with picturesque small towns and villages and lined with magnificent villas and gardens. The Lakes are drowned glaciated valleys formed during the last Ice Age and the mountainous backdrop of the Alps add to the drama of the setting.
Across the lake from our hotel is Bellagio, set spectacularly on a promontory. It has been described as the prettiest village in Europe and is full of quaint streets and alleyways, churches, cafes and boutiques, radiating a definite aura of sophistication. It was busy when we paused for coffee and I imagine is heaving at the height of the summer! Emerging from the village we walked along the lake’s shore before approaching the gates to Villa Melzi d’Eril.
The villa was built by Francesco Melzi d’Eril as his ‘summer palace’ between 1808-13. the Melzi’s were influential; wealthy patrons & politicians who entertained lavishly. Franz Liszt was a frequent visitor. The neoclassical villa was designed by the most illustrious architect of the time Giocondo Albertolli
and is set in romantic, enchanting, park style gardens on the shores of the lake.
Statues and fountains abound and the views in all directions are superb.
There was considerable rivalry between Melzi and his neighbour on the opposite side of the lake, Giovanni Battista Sommeriva of Villa Carlotta fame. They competed for political position in the Napoleonic Italian Republic, who could build the most impressive villa and gardens on Lake Como, import the most unusual and exotic plants and generally tried to outdo one another in every way possible. Keeping up with the Jones is not a modern concept!
Interestingly, one enters the garden via a tufa grotto emerging into a Japanese style garden. The sun was shining and illuminating the beautiful coloured leaves of multiple acers that are set around a small Japanese pond. The planting reflects Japan. There are koi carp floating majestically in the still reflective waters and a small bridge spans the pond like a something out of a willow pattern plate. Glancing to the right you can see Lake Como through the trees and you think it cannot get any better than this, but it is just the beginning.
A meandering path leads you along the lake’s shoreline to a Moorish pavilion looking over Lake Como. The perfect spot for afternoon tea - I know, spoken like a true English woman! An avenue of pollarded Plane trees lead you on towards the Villa’s terrace and lake landing stage. Important visitors arrived this way, enabling them to admire the beautiful Neoclassical Summer Palace in its fabulous setting. On the terrace is a large water lily pond and fountain before you would ascend the steps to the villa itself. This is still in private ownership and not open to the public. The gardens rise up from the shore, planted with specimen trees including two of my favourites, the liriodendron (tulip tree) and Cornus controversa variegata (the wedding cake tree). There are massed rhododendrons and azaleas, which would have been brought from China at great expense, all interspersed with winding paths that rise and fall within the landscape giving the walker spectacular views from every angle. There is an Orangery, now a museum dedicated to the story of the villa and Melzi family history and at the very end of the garden an Oratory, or Family Chapel, which is full of moving sculptures and tombs. Here, it is worth resting a while, in the peace and tranquility of a tiny but perfect House of God reflecting on your visit and its magnificence. Villa Melzi was certainly a wonderful place to start our exploration of the gardens of The Italian Lakes.Read more