50 years on!
May 20, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
It seems quite unbelievable that Peter and I have been married 50 years this May. A lot of water has flowed under the bridge in that time;
four different homes, two beloved children and five equally beloved grandchildren. We decided to celebrate by visiting the gardens of a region of Italy as yet unknown to us, The Italian Lakes, in the company of some old friends who also love their little patch of paradise and appreciate a beautiful garden. Lake Como is just over an hour from Milan airport and we all arrived at the Grand Hotel Menaggio on its shores mid afternoon. The welcome was warm, the sun was shining and the views from our balcony more than lived up to expectations, as you will see.
We sat and enjoyed the celebratory cake provided together with a glass of wine and life was good!
The next few days will involve visits to some of the stunning gardens and their villas in the vicinity.Read more
Lake Como and Bellagio
May 21, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
The day had dawned cloudy and grey, as our small group of five, plus a guide made our way to the 9.30am ferry that would take us across Lake Como to Bellagio and our first garden visit. The ferry is the best option for traversing the lake, as distances by road can be tortuous. Lake Como is long, narrow, deep and outstandingly beautiful; dotted with picturesque small towns and villages and lined with magnificent villas and gardens. The Lakes are drowned glaciated valleys formed during the last Ice Age and the mountainous backdrop of the Alps add to the drama of the setting.
Across the lake from our hotel is Bellagio, set spectacularly on a promontory. It has been described as the prettiest village in Europe and is full of quaint streets and alleyways, churches, cafes and boutiques, radiating a definite aura of sophistication. It was busy when we paused for coffee and I imagine is heaving at the height of the summer! Emerging from the village we walked along the lake’s shore before approaching the gates to Villa Melzi d’Eril.
The villa was built by Francesco Melzi d’Eril as his ‘summer palace’ between 1808-13. the Melzi’s were influential; wealthy patrons & politicians who entertained lavishly. Franz Liszt was a frequent visitor. The neoclassical villa was designed by the most illustrious architect of the time Giocondo Albertolli
and is set in romantic, enchanting, park style gardens on the shores of the lake.
Statues and fountains abound and the views in all directions are superb.
There was considerable rivalry between Melzi and his neighbour on the opposite side of the lake, Giovanni Battista Sommeriva of Villa Carlotta fame. They competed for political position in the Napoleonic Italian Republic, who could build the most impressive villa and gardens on Lake Como, import the most unusual and exotic plants and generally tried to outdo one another in every way possible. Keeping up with the Jones is not a modern concept!
Interestingly, one enters the garden via a tufa grotto emerging into a Japanese style garden. The sun was shining and illuminating the beautiful coloured leaves of multiple acers that are set around a small Japanese pond. The planting reflects Japan. There are koi carp floating majestically in the still reflective waters and a small bridge spans the pond like a something out of a willow pattern plate. Glancing to the right you can see Lake Como through the trees and you think it cannot get any better than this, but it is just the beginning.
A meandering path leads you along the lake’s shoreline to a Moorish pavilion looking over Lake Como. The perfect spot for afternoon tea - I know, spoken like a true English woman! An avenue of pollarded Plane trees lead you on towards the Villa’s terrace and lake landing stage. Important visitors arrived this way, enabling them to admire the beautiful Neoclassical Summer Palace in its fabulous setting. On the terrace is a large water lily pond and fountain before you would ascend the steps to the villa itself. This is still in private ownership and not open to the public. The gardens rise up from the shore, planted with specimen trees including two of my favourites, the liriodendron (tulip tree) and Cornus controversa variegata (the wedding cake tree). There are massed rhododendrons and azaleas, which would have been brought from China at great expense, all interspersed with winding paths that rise and fall within the landscape giving the walker spectacular views from every angle. There is an Orangery, now a museum dedicated to the story of the villa and Melzi family history and at the very end of the garden an Oratory, or Family Chapel, which is full of moving sculptures and tombs. Here, it is worth resting a while, in the peace and tranquility of a tiny but perfect House of God reflecting on your visit and its magnificence. Villa Melzi was certainly a wonderful place to start our exploration of the gardens of The Italian Lakes.Read more
Varenna and Villa Monastero
May 21, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After a leisurely lunch in Bellagio, it was time to board the ferry once more for the short trip to the charming town of Varenna. Hanging over the side looking at the views was out of the question, as the heavens opened and shelter was sought in short order. Fortunately, the cloudburst did not last for long.
Our purpose was to visit the Villa Monastero. As its name suggests, the garden is constructed around the ruins of a monastery, built in the C16th. The residence is now an International Science and Convention Centre.
The surrounding garden is particularly long and narrow due to the topography and its winding paths closely follow Lake Como’s shoreline. It is renowned for a fine collection of Mediterranean and tropical plants, in particular an amazing ‘garden’ of rare citrus trees. These are planted close to the water’s edge and by rights should not survive in such northern climes. However, the garden faces south and the land rises sharply behind creating shelter from the cold and a favourable microclimate exists that enables exotic species such as these and many others to thrive. The planting is lush and as you might expect statues and fountains are dotted throughout in varying states of C16th decay. There are many beautiful viewpoints over the garden and the lake and the overall effect is really magical.
Close by is Villa Cipressi poised on a rocky promontory. Here is a Botanic Garden of succulents leading down from the beautiful terrace of what is now a very smart hotel. Its paths are steep and stepped and I had to take the easy option here, as I was not sure my knees would cope!
I settled down and ordered a pot of tea on the terrace having asked Peter to take some notes and photographs for me. This resulted in only one, as he seemed to think there was not much to take ?!!
And so ended our first day on Lake Como. It was time to retreat back to the Grand Hotel Menaggio for dinner, which was very fine. We will be extremely comfortable here I can see. The food, ambience and service are superb, not forgetting those magnificent views over the lake.Read more
Villa Carlotta
May 22, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
Our second day in and around Lake Como began with a visit to Villa Carlotta on the opposite side of the lake to Villa Melzi. This was the home of Giovanni Battista Sommariva and his family. Here was another dazzling, influential politician, who used his enormous wealth to cultivate his passion for the arts in the creation of his home and surrounding garden. As I mentioned yesterday, there was an intense rivalry across the lake, to see who could out do the other!
In this case we could tour the interior of the villa, as it is now in the hands of the Italian state. In 1843 Villa Carlotta was sold to Princess Marianne of Prussia, who in turn gifted it to her daughter Charlotte, on the occasion of her marriage to Duke Georg 11 of Saxe-Meiningen. Sadly, Charlotte died young, but her husband and family remained at the Villa, refining and adapting it and the spectacular gardens. It was during World War 1 that the property was confiscated by the Italian government, as a German family was deemed an enemy of the state. Since 1927 the estate has been entrusted to the Ente (Trust) Villa Carlotta.
The interior of the Villa is quite beautiful. Giovanni Sommeriva was particular addicted to sculpture and there are some fabulous examples on display, in particular several by the master Antonio Canova. The marble entrance hall is
classically adorned with a spectacular marble frieze depicting the triumphal entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon by Bertelsmann Thorvaldsen. It is placed above the door lintels and runs all the way round the space. In the centre of the room is Mars and Venus (The Peace) by Luigi Acquisti, which is equally arresting. It is quite an entrance and so the theme goes on, from room to room, each as incredible as the last. It is difficult to make any form of comparison with Villa Melzi of course, because the the latter is privately owned by the family and not open to the public, but one can imagine it is more of the same.
Eventually we drifted out into the garden. This is large and divided into differently themed areas, up hill and down dale, due to the steeply rising nature of the land. From the lake shore there are C17th flights of steps and five terraces leading up to the Villa, adorned with fish ponds, fountains, flower beds and hedges, as well as tunnels of citrus trees and climbing roses. Again, as with Villa Melzi, guests would have approached by boat and the beautiful Villa in its superb setting would have been appreciated to the full. There is an olive grove, a fabulous green ‘theatre’ set in a valley. This was very important, as sets and backdrops made up of vegetation were used to great effect in outdoor entertainment. A particular favourite of mine was The Valley of the Ferns. Here is a steep sided valley with a stream at its base. On the banks grow ancient plane trees, tulip and chestnut trees, alongside imposing tree ferns, native to New Zealand. It is a green sward of stunning beauty, sparkling as the sun penetrates the canopy and illuminates the tree ferns underneath. I have included a photograph, but in honesty it does not do it justice. There is a rock garden and succulent bed, a Bamboo garden and the Saxe-Meningen garden consisting of a natural rise of massed camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. We almost take these for granted today, but of course they would have been imported from China at great expense when the garden was planted and were the exotics of their day. All of this is surrounded by ancient woodland, which the cultivated garden gradually blends into.
So, how do we compare the two fabulous villas facing each other across the lake? Of course, we do not and cannot. Both estates are equally incredible works of art and although they would probably glower at the prospect, the owners are to be congratulated on their achievement!Read more
Villa Balbianello
May 22, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Our afternoon visit took us to the south of Lake Como to the town of Lenno, where we had lunch. Villa Balbianello is an elegant, romantic, C18th mansion and garden set on a wooded promontory overlooking the lake. There are two ways of reaching the property, either by boat, if the lake is calm, or a long walk in. It was judged not calm enough for the boat ride, so we walked up through the woods before emerging into the grounds of the Villa. We certainly made our 10,000 steps today!
The last owner and architect of all we see today was Count Guido Monzino, a latter day adventurer and explorer, who clearly loved a challenge. Like a magpie, he collected objets d’art from all over the world during his travels, which adorn his unique home.
One approaches the villa down a winding path, lined with pollarded trees. There are the classic tall slim Italian pines and beds of box hummocks (no dreaded moth here!) and colourful Icelandic poppies on the way down. The villa is divided into two sections, separated by the magnificent Loggia Durini, overlooking the lake. Cardinal Durini was the original owner of the villa, which was built and adapted on the site of an ancient Franciscan monastery in the C18th . I have no picture of this spot I’m afraid, as the whole area had been taken over by the selfie maniacs, who seem to think they have the right to overtake any attractive spot and deny anyone else a chance to look. This was not the first time we had come across the phenomenon, but it was by far the worst example of people’s hideous and even aggressive behaviour.
To the left of the Loggia is Guido Monzoni’s chart room and library, from which his expeditions were planned. Across the loggia is the rest of the villa. (We had a private tour organised, so escaped the screaming hoards!). There are beautiful reception rooms, housing English and French furniture of which the Count was very fond and a lovely suite of rooms created for his mother, who apparently visited once, never to return. Nothing was to her taste! You can’t please some people, even with the headboards in the bedroom being solid silver!!
Climbing a set of winding stairs brings you to the exhibition loft. Here are displayed many photos, flags and honours marking Guido Monzoni’s life as an adventurer, including one of the eight sleds he used to reach the North Pole. There are even artefacts from his Mt Everest ascent. This was clearly a man who didn’t stand still for long, but hopefully retreated back to his fabulous home to retrench and recover when necessary. I could happily sit on his grassy terrace looking at that marvellous view of Lake Como for a very long time - as could Daniel Craig aka James Bond when Casino Royale was filmed here. The setting is so stunning several movies have had scenes filmed here. Villa Balbianello seemed a fitting end to our Lake Como exploration and we returned to our hotel for a final superb dinner, before packing up to travel on to the second part of our adventure.Read more
Moving Day!
May 23, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
This morning the sun shone down on Lake Como, just as we were leaving! At least we saw its waters sparkling in the sunlight at last.
Our journey was to take us to Lake Maggiore for the second half of our trip.
We arrived in Pallanza at The Grand Hotel Majestic around lunchtime and had the afternoon free to explore the pretty little town and get our bearings.
This is certainly a Majestic hotel, as its name suggests. Our room was large and very well appointed with the great views overlooking the gardens and Lake Maggiore herself.
Lunch was enjoyed out in the sunshine and we wandered around the lakeshore promenade and the town in relaxed mode. In truth it was the first downtime we had had and by the looks of the itinerary are likely to have. The view over the lake to the snow covered Alps is beautiful and yet another reminder how close we are to Switzerland. Many workers live here and travel into Switzerland daily and I can see why. The lower cost of living and way of life are a constant attraction I would think. Half way through the afternoon we struck gold - yes, you’ve guessed it, a first class Gelateria! This will be first of daily visits I have no doubt!Read more
Isola Madre
May 24, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
As we thought, today was crammed full of extraordinary sights. We departed by boat this morning to visit the world famous Borromeo Islands that lie just off the town of Stresa on the opposite side of Lake Maggiore. These islands have been owned by the Borromeo family from the C16th until the present day.
Our first port of call was to Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, which is a relaxed and natural paradise of plants that were gathered from all over the world at the height of the ‘plant hunters’ expeditions. This collection has evolved into an impressive botanic garden over the years. From the dock we followed the Viale Africa, a path which leads you ever onwards through subtropical and evergreen planting into the garden proper. As you glance to the right there are views over the water that stop you in your tracks. Our pace was slow, to take in the views and because there were so many plants too exclaim over.
The garden was planned and planted in the C17th and was one of the first in Italy to feature a Camellia collection. They were brought here as early as 1830 and around 150 species now bloom in early March with great exuberance.
They are followed by Azaleas and Proteas in April, Rhododendrons, Roses, Cacti and Water Lilies in May and June and so it goes on. The island is crammed with exotic plants and specimen trees surrounding the Palazzo or the family’s ‘summer cottage’ as they like to call it! The Grand Staircase leads the family and their guests up through the garden to their home, when they are in residence. As with the other incredible villas we have seen, access is by boat and here, of course, there is no alternative!
Exotic birds wander through the undergrowth startling visitors with their erie calls. The approach to the Palazzo is dominated by a magnificent Kashmir Cypress, whose seeds arrived from the East in 1862. It is a glorious specimen and all the more remarkable because it was felled by a tornado in 2006. Amid great consternation the head gardener quickly developed a plan and saved her with a sophisticated engineering technique and here she stands still, in front of the Palazzo Loggia del Kashmir, a testament to one man’s horticultural ingenuity.
The Palazzo itself is not large by villa standards and is shabby chic in feel. I would imagine little has changed over the years with the exception of modern lighting and plumbing of course. The family could obviously afford to modernise if they so wished, but prefer to keep their home as it has always been. In effect, it is a C17th time capsule of curiosities, art and family history. It is absolutely fascinating. There has been a long tradition of puppet theatres and entertainments over the years. All the sets and puppets are on display. They are incredible. The most impressive theatre was designed by Alessandro Sanquirico, the scenographer at La Scala Milan! Such is the pull,of the Borromeo family.
On exiting the Palazzo, you are led to the Pizzale della Capella. This is the chapel where family members are married to this day. It is the most beautiful spot. There is a piazza with a large tropical blue pool filled with water lilies, surrounded by palms. Thankfully, one can buy a drink and sit in the shade taking it all in. Imagine this setting for a very exclusive wedding!
We gradually made our way through the garden back towards the landing stage to rendezvous with our launch. I loved Isola Madre for its wild romantic atmosphere. Nothing is overdone. It feels natural and comfortable and I can see why the Borromeo’s want to leave it just as it is, so would I. Whatever next we wondered?Read more
Isola Bella
May 24, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Our afternoon visit was to Isola Bella, the largest and grandest of the Borromeo Islands. The Palazzo and its garden were completed in1680. Isola Bella translates as beautiful island and it seems to float above the blue waters of Lake Maggiore like a ship in full sail, as we could see on our approach in the launch. It simply towered above us. Originally, the island was named Isola Isabella, in honour of the wife of Count Carlo Borromeo 11. Isabella received the island as part of her dowry and in 1630, and it was she who envisaged and set in motion the creation of its baroque gardens to compliment the Palazzo.
Palazzo Borromeo has been added to and adapted over the centuries until it evolved into an incredibly opulent palace, designed for maximum grandeur and prestige. Any visitor, both past and present, could not fail to be impressed, which was of course the intention. The Borromeo family have been at the heart of European aristocracy for centuries and have welcomed many important guests over the centuries. There are of course beautiful staterooms, paintings, furniture, cantilevered staircases and even a whole suite of tufa and shell adorned garden rooms to provide shade and a resting place for the family and their guests in the heat of the day. Everything has been thought of and included.
The garden is strikingly theatrical and dominated structurally by Teatro Massimo. This is a flower filled amphitheater of 10 terraces forming a truncated pyramid and was used as a backdrop for lavish theatrical performances. There are statues and fountains and at the very top stands a unicorn, the heraldic symbol of the Borromeo family, just in case you were in any doubt where you were! At the summit is The Grand Terrace, which is 37 metres above the lake. As you can imagine the views in all directions are spectacular and it is difficult to know where to look. The gardens are planted once again with a variety of exotic plants, happily co-existing in this very special microclimate, where most of them would not normally grow. White peacocks roam across the lawns under a huge camphor tree and at this time of year there are roses everywhere in full bloom. It was fabulous to behold, but in a totally different guise to Isola Madre.
However magical and fantastic are the Borromeo Islands, their palazzos and gardens, these are not museum pieces. Guided by modernity, the low key Borromeo family have gently kept their historical inheritance relevant, with seemingly the humility that is at the centre of their cote of arms.Read more
Giardini Botanico di Villa Taranto
May 25, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Our final garden visit was to the youngest garden on our list, established by Scotsman Captain Neil McEacham, who bought Villa Taranto and 50 acres surrounding it in 1930. As you may have gathered this was no ordinary captain. He was born into a wealthy Scots family, owners of a shipping company, rich iron and coal mines and vast estates in Australia. Neil first came to Italy at the age of eight and it was an experience that changed the course of his life. He loved the landscape here in the Italian lakes and so began his long interest in botany and plants. He bought the property having seen an advertisement in The Times and soon began to transform its appearance. Between 1931 -40 two thousand trees were felled, massive earthworks were undertaken and 8 kilometres of pipes were laid to facilitate the water features he had planned. The most delicate work was the botanical repopulation. Seeds and plants were collected and brought from all over the world, using the fleet of company ships that were at his disposal!
His grand scheme was almost complete at the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939. McEacham was then considered an enemy of the state and deported to Switzerland and to his horror had to leave his creation. The solution was to present his beloved Villa Taranto and its garden to the Italian State, on the condition that it should remain private. The estate was entrusted to his great friend and lawyer Antonio Capelletto. Captain McEacham rode out the war years in Australia, where of course his family had business connections.
On his return after the war the garden and villa had inevitably fallen into a state of neglect and he was encouraged to put it to rights and open the garden to the public, which he achieved somewhat miraculously by 1952.
Today the garden is full of unusual plants from all over the world. There are some 20,000 plants representing more than 3000 species set among 7 kilometres of paths. It is a total tour de force. Sadly the Captain did not live long afterwards to see his creation so admired. He is buried in a purpose built mausoleum in the midst of his fabulous garden, which seems a fitting conclusion to an extraordinary life’s work.Read more
The Finale!
May 26, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
And so we come to our final day, spent relaxing and wandering Pallanza for a final gelato and reflecting on all we have seen. The weather is clear and the views over Lake Maggiore to the Alps glorious. It has been a fabulous few days and Italy’s ‘Golden Lakes’ did certainly not disappoint. A special journey to remember.Read more