Villa Carlotta

Our second day in and around Lake Como began with a visit to Villa Carlotta on the opposite side of the lake to Villa Melzi. This was the home of Giovanni Battista Sommariva and his family. Here was another dazzling, influential politician, who used his enormous wealth to cultivate his passion for the arts in the creation of his home and surrounding garden. As I mentioned yesterday, there was an intense rivalry across the lake, to see who could out do the other!
In this case we could tour the interior of the villa, as it is now in the hands of the Italian state. In 1843 Villa Carlotta was sold to Princess Marianne of Prussia, who in turn gifted it to her daughter Charlotte, on the occasion of her marriage to Duke Georg 11 of Saxe-Meiningen. Sadly, Charlotte died young, but her husband and family remained at the Villa, refining and adapting it and the spectacular gardens. It was during World War 1 that the property was confiscated by the Italian government, as a German family was deemed an enemy of the state. Since 1927 the estate has been entrusted to the Ente (Trust) Villa Carlotta.
The interior of the Villa is quite beautiful. Giovanni Sommeriva was particular addicted to sculpture and there are some fabulous examples on display, in particular several by the master Antonio Canova. The marble entrance hall is
classically adorned with a spectacular marble frieze depicting the triumphal entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon by Bertelsmann Thorvaldsen. It is placed above the door lintels and runs all the way round the space. In the centre of the room is Mars and Venus (The Peace) by Luigi Acquisti, which is equally arresting. It is quite an entrance and so the theme goes on, from room to room, each as incredible as the last. It is difficult to make any form of comparison with Villa Melzi of course, because the the latter is privately owned by the family and not open to the public, but one can imagine it is more of the same.
Eventually we drifted out into the garden. This is large and divided into differently themed areas, up hill and down dale, due to the steeply rising nature of the land. From the lake shore there are C17th flights of steps and five terraces leading up to the Villa, adorned with fish ponds, fountains, flower beds and hedges, as well as tunnels of citrus trees and climbing roses. Again, as with Villa Melzi, guests would have approached by boat and the beautiful Villa in its superb setting would have been appreciated to the full. There is an olive grove, a fabulous green ‘theatre’ set in a valley. This was very important, as sets and backdrops made up of vegetation were used to great effect in outdoor entertainment. A particular favourite of mine was The Valley of the Ferns. Here is a steep sided valley with a stream at its base. On the banks grow ancient plane trees, tulip and chestnut trees, alongside imposing tree ferns, native to New Zealand. It is a green sward of stunning beauty, sparkling as the sun penetrates the canopy and illuminates the tree ferns underneath. I have included a photograph, but in honesty it does not do it justice. There is a rock garden and succulent bed, a Bamboo garden and the Saxe-Meningen garden consisting of a natural rise of massed camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. We almost take these for granted today, but of course they would have been imported from China at great expense when the garden was planted and were the exotics of their day. All of this is surrounded by ancient woodland, which the cultivated garden gradually blends into.
So, how do we compare the two fabulous villas facing each other across the lake? Of course, we do not and cannot. Both estates are equally incredible works of art and although they would probably glower at the prospect, the owners are to be congratulated on their achievement!Read more