Isola Madre

As we thought, today was crammed full of extraordinary sights. We departed by boat this morning to visit the world famous Borromeo Islands that lie just off the town of Stresa on the opposite side of Lake Maggiore. These islands have been owned by the Borromeo family from the C16th until the present day.
Our first port of call was to Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, which is a relaxed and natural paradise of plants that were gathered from all over the world at the height of the ‘plant hunters’ expeditions. This collection has evolved into an impressive botanic garden over the years. From the dock we followed the Viale Africa, a path which leads you ever onwards through subtropical and evergreen planting into the garden proper. As you glance to the right there are views over the water that stop you in your tracks. Our pace was slow, to take in the views and because there were so many plants too exclaim over.
The garden was planned and planted in the C17th and was one of the first in Italy to feature a Camellia collection. They were brought here as early as 1830 and around 150 species now bloom in early March with great exuberance.
They are followed by Azaleas and Proteas in April, Rhododendrons, Roses, Cacti and Water Lilies in May and June and so it goes on. The island is crammed with exotic plants and specimen trees surrounding the Palazzo or the family’s ‘summer cottage’ as they like to call it! The Grand Staircase leads the family and their guests up through the garden to their home, when they are in residence. As with the other incredible villas we have seen, access is by boat and here, of course, there is no alternative!
Exotic birds wander through the undergrowth startling visitors with their erie calls. The approach to the Palazzo is dominated by a magnificent Kashmir Cypress, whose seeds arrived from the East in 1862. It is a glorious specimen and all the more remarkable because it was felled by a tornado in 2006. Amid great consternation the head gardener quickly developed a plan and saved her with a sophisticated engineering technique and here she stands still, in front of the Palazzo Loggia del Kashmir, a testament to one man’s horticultural ingenuity.
The Palazzo itself is not large by villa standards and is shabby chic in feel. I would imagine little has changed over the years with the exception of modern lighting and plumbing of course. The family could obviously afford to modernise if they so wished, but prefer to keep their home as it has always been. In effect, it is a C17th time capsule of curiosities, art and family history. It is absolutely fascinating. There has been a long tradition of puppet theatres and entertainments over the years. All the sets and puppets are on display. They are incredible. The most impressive theatre was designed by Alessandro Sanquirico, the scenographer at La Scala Milan! Such is the pull,of the Borromeo family.
On exiting the Palazzo, you are led to the Pizzale della Capella. This is the chapel where family members are married to this day. It is the most beautiful spot. There is a piazza with a large tropical blue pool filled with water lilies, surrounded by palms. Thankfully, one can buy a drink and sit in the shade taking it all in. Imagine this setting for a very exclusive wedding!
We gradually made our way through the garden back towards the landing stage to rendezvous with our launch. I loved Isola Madre for its wild romantic atmosphere. Nothing is overdone. It feels natural and comfortable and I can see why the Borromeo’s want to leave it just as it is, so would I. Whatever next we wondered?Read more