• The Travel Bug
Dec 2015 – Feb 2016

Out Of South Africa

A 34-day adventure by The Travel Bug Read more
  • So huge and so close and more to come!
    Pride on the moveYoung male exhausted!zebramother cheetah ever watchfulCubs at playWhite rhino

    Game Drive 2

    January 31, 2016 in South Africa

    North Uthungulu, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Sunday, January 31, 2016

    I fear this could become quite boring; long litanies of the animals viewed, so I'll keep it to the highlights to cover the next couple of days!
    Is it Sunday today? (you loose track of the days), but whatever the day, the faithful 5o'clk alarm call cometh. I felt terrible, so tired; who would think that sitting in a jeep for hours on end could be so exhausting.
    The highlights of the morning were another delightful cheetah family, consisting of Mum and four cubs this time. Mum is doing very well to get four cubs to 10 months and all looking so well. These were quite playful and kept messing about with each other. Mum got pretty fed up with it and moved slightly away from them, whence they got up and promptly followed lounging all over her. Typical teenagers, irritating!
    We tracked our pride of dozy lions from yesterday for ages. There were tracks all over the place and Mr T was hard put to work out where they were going. Eventually, he and Dylan got out of the jeep to walk into the bush to have a look. They were just out of sight when glancing left what should I see, but 'Lion to the left'. The whole pride was on the move. With Dylan and Mr T back in the jeep we discreetly followed them. The two mothers of the eight cubs were clearly in hunting mode. They parked the cubs in a thicket and set off together tracking Nyala and came jolly close to catching one. Unfortunately, a couple of the cubs had got restless and appeared at the wrong moment and the kill was lost. It was clear the mothers were not happy! Kids, they never stay where you tell them!!
    This afternoon we drove out to the northern tip of the reserve, which is yet again a different terrain altogether. Flat grassland, with some more luxuriant sections. This is possibly one of the features of Phinda, there are several habitats within a relatively small area. It is famous for its large section of sand forrest, a very rare ecosystem and the largest of its type in the world. Like a lot of things in this neck of the woods, it is endangered, but at least in the right place i.e. a reserve to be protected. It is very beautiful on the eye.
    The aim was to see white and black rhino, buffalo and elephant and boy did we ever. To be honest the white and black rhino look identical, unless you know what to look for. If I have this correctly, the white have a square jaw and lower head carriage and the black a rounded more pointed jaw, with a high head carriage. The colour and size are the same, but at least now you'll have no problem telling them apart!! Next on stage were some water buffalo, the most dangerous animal in the bush, for their propensity to attack without warning and for no good reason, beyond they're feeling a bit grumpy that day. I think I can relate to that and maybe know a few human examples! The finale had to be a huge herd of elephants of all sizes, from an enormous bull to a tiny calf of two weeks. They were wonderful and very large! Two passed within 5' of the jeep fixing us with their beady eyes. Nobody moved!!
    Dylan had a surprise for our sundowner, in that we arrived at a sheltered clearing seemingly in the middle of nowhere, to find suspended from an overhanging tree, oil lamps, a bottle of champagne (in an ice bucket!), flutes and snax. The chilled cocktail bar was in the corner for those who wanted a beer or G&T. It looked gorgeous and tasted the same as the sun went down in spectacular fashion. A great end to another superb day.
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  • The pride of Lions this morning
    Did I hear something edible?Breakfast is served in the shape of a warthogElephant approaching the Lodge!Luckily it's fresh water they're after!so cute!The cheetah family in posing modeThere's nothing like tree climbing when you're young!Mum is off on the huntSuccess!

    Game Drive 3

    February 1, 2016 in South Africa

    North Uthungulu, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
    Monday, February 1, 2016

    Unbelievably, this is our final game drive day and also our final day in South Africa before heading home tomorrow. It has all gone so quickly.
    The alarm call came as regular as clockwork and it was over to the main lodge for a drink and some food if you could face it, before heading off. Dylan had heard that the pride of lions we were watching yesterday had moved much closer to us overnight and so we called to say hello. They were literally just down the road. Our next port of call was to our favourite cheetah family. The cubs were delightful, in a really playful mood. Mum however, seemed more than usually watchful, maybe she had wind of the lion pride not far away and the threat they posed to her youngsters. Before long she moved them all to a thicket close by and we watched the little dears frolicking around in what seemed to be a cheetah adventure playground. Dylan then wanted to check again on the lion family. He must have had a premonition. We arrived as the older lioness had brought down a warthog and a feeding frenzy began. A warthog is clearly small fry for a pride of lions and there was much growling, jostling for position and quarrelling over the prize. Survival of the fittest came to mind. It was a fascinating if gruesome sight, but we were pleased to have seen a kill. By the time every morsel was crunched and devoured, with the exception of the tusks, those moody aggressive beasts were flat on their backs with full (ish) tummies and beatific smiles of their faces. Quite a change from ten minutes before. Right under the noses of the lions we watched some dung beetles at work, opportunists that they are. They are so interesting to watch, beavering away, rolling their huge ball of dung far larger than themselves. Inclines are hilarious.
    Breakfast beckoned and more of Happiness's superlative cooking. Before you leave the table she comes to take your lunch order -groan!! February is to be a non food month!!
    The afternoon drive proved to be a quite something. Elephants had appeared at the lodge and we drove round to have a look. There were about ten of them, all ages and they proceeded to have a drink at no 6 lodge's plunge pool and pull the pump apart because apparently they love fresh cool water! We continued by driving through the sand forest, an area I have come to love. Mr T spotted a rare bird called a Trojan. I don't know how he does it, he can only have seen a flash of movement. In truth we had been looking for one from the beginning. They are rather like a bird of paradise, with their beautiful red chests, yellow beak, white tail and green/blue iridescent body. The cheetah family were sleeping in the shade of a small tree in a clearing and we watched them for a while -sleeping! (there are only so many times you can exclaim at the twitch of a tail). However, our patience paid off, eventually they all yawned and did their yoga exercises, or so it seemed. Mother set off with a purpose, hunting was the considered opinion, and we followed her. (It appears to make no difference to the animals that this great big vehicle full of gawping humans is tracking them!). After one of two false starts she haired off with the cubs in hot pursuit, learning all the time. This time she was successful and brought down a young Impala. The cubs tucked in with relish, whilst their mother sat back catching her breath and keeping an eye out for trouble. The youngsters had had a good feed, but she had had none, when who should trot out of the trees, but a very large lioness. My heart sank, as I knew exactly what was going to happen next and sure enough she bounded over to them. The cubs scattered immediately, but their mother stood her ground, growling and threatening. She was of course no match for the lioness and she took flight in the opposite direction leading the lioness away from her Cubs, in a classic decoying tactic. If the lioness could catch the cubs she would kill them make no mistake. Thankfully, it didn't happen and the lioness returned to the kill and devoured the remains. This is something that you read of, but hardly expect to see in person. Dylan had never witnessed such a thing and was as astounded as we were. Night was falling rapidly and it was time to head back to the lodge. We could not have had a more spectacular end to our game drive. On the way home we even managed to see a nightjar (rare bird) and a bush baby.
    When we arrived back to the lodge, dinner was set out on the vlei lit by candles and lamps. We entertained our guide Dylan and it was the perfect end to a fabulous trip.
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  • The Protea - the National Flower of South Africa

    Homeward Bound

    February 2, 2016 in South Africa

    Today, we wend our way home, taking with us so many profound memories. As I mentioned at the beginning of this narrative my interest in South Africa was initially sparked by my Great Uncle Rob and here are Peter and I, some 50 years later, having finally trodden the pavements, grasslands, beaches and mountains of those inspirational letters. It has been a journey of discovery every step of the way. Of course South Africa has changed beyond all recognition since my Uncle's day and the transition has not always been pretty. This is a young country, a fledgling democracy, which to be honest could go either way. The poverty is crippling and the gap between the 'haves and have nots' vast. What was so striking was the energy and determination within the black community that the legacy of Nelson Mandela would be lived and adhered to. There are huge problems of course, but we can only hope and pray for patience on behalf of the population and a reduction in corruption amongst those in government that may eventually lead this majestic country onwards and upwards. Scenically, there is no beating South Africa and In some respects I was reminded of some of the majestic landscapes of the American West, but yet there is always that indefinable African feel. Great Britain's history and influence is clearly evident, together with that of the Dutch and to a lesser extent the French, but today the phrase melting pot comes to and sticks in the mind. We have seen so many stunning sights and met some inspirational people from all backgrounds, determined to succeed. Pietman Retief, a descendant of the original Huguenot settlers said over lunch in Stellenbosch "this country will grow and succeed. I am African and immensely proud of the fact". He is not alone.Read more

    Trip end
    February 2, 2016