Day 16 - The Mosquito Coast

08:30
I’m awake just after 06:00. This is not entirely unintentional. My balcony overlooks the East side of Kandy, and various reviews of my guesthouse I’ve read have said the morning views are stunning. And - they are. It’s a really hazy morning. I don’t know if that’s moisture that needs to burn off, air pollution or something else - but it gives a somewhat mysterious air to the sunrise over Kandy. I can see a temple over to the East on a hilltop, the famous Kandy Lake off to the West of me, and the sprawling city laid out to the front.

I’m not particularly hungry, but conscious I won’t be in Negombo till later this afternoon, so I need to eat something. A pleasantly austere version of breakfast here, which is welcome - some fruit, some juice, an omelette and some toast. Back at my room, I sit on the balcony as the day warms up.

12:15
Another day, another would-be Ayrton Senna. I have to ask this one several times not to look at his mobile phone while he’s driving. He’s clearly finding it very distracting. We do some really exciting overtaking around blind corners, and only on some of them do we encounter a bus coming the other way. Pretty sure we wing a couple of pedestrians along the way. Yesterday’s serene meander through the mountains, this is not.

16:00
I’m not entirely sure what I was expecting from Negombo. Maybe a version of Mirissa or Tangalle. It’s like neither of these. The beach is nice enough, but there’s nothing really on it - I walk up and down, in an increasingly desperate search for a beer. There are a couple of places that look hopeful, but which transpire to be closed. There are a couple of beachfront hotels that don’t look all that hospitable. I end up in what looks like a pretty generic chain hotel, but they have cold wine, so WTF do I care?

My hotel room is another with an irritating key fob to turn the power on, so will be hot when I get back. The mountains were a blissful interlude, but it’s back up to 38C and humid. There’s at least a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean, which gives some relief.

I’ve been up since early, and after some fried rice and a couple of wines, nap is calling…

22:45
Somewhat refreshed, I head out in search of sustenance in solid and liquid forms. It’s still swelteringly hot, and by the time I reach my dinner destination, my t-shirt is damp, and sticking to me. I’m at Tuk-Tuk Wine and Dine, yet another interesting name for a restaurant. I can see no evidence of tuk-tuks, and the less said about the wine offering, the better. They do, however, serve food, so let’s see how the dine side of things stacks up.

I order the Black Pork Curry, a Sri Lankan speciality. A sizeable bowl of this curry arrives, along with a sizeable bowl of rice, a papad, and the standard rice and curry accompaniments of dhal, bean curry, curried aubergines etc etc. I’m somewhat overwhelmed. It’s delicious though. Properly hot, flavoured with curry leaves, cardamom, cinnamon and fennel seed - just brilliant.

What is less brilliant is the onslaught of mosquitoes. I’ve not been bothered by these little fuckers for the past week, and should probably have been minded that a return to the coast would see them enact their revenge. I’ve not brought out any mossie spray, obvs, so am getting eaten alive. I can feel a few insanely itchy bites coming up already. When I’ve finished as much of my food as I can manage, I call for the bill and scarper as quickly as is feasible.

Next stop is the wonderfully named Sherry Land - I shall do well here. I park up and order a glass of wine. Moments later, I feel another nibble. My guess is that as Negombo is less busy than it would be during the peak tourist season, and there are likely to be the same amount of mosquitoes, the bug to Tim ratio is far higher than it would be at other times of the year, ergo - I’m receiving special attention. Lucky, lucky me… I’ve got a bottle of red wine back at my room, so head back there to escape, cool down, and watch a movie.Read more