Day 15 - Temples can be cool too

17:30
Felix is much improved this morning, so I arrange for a driver I met yesterday to pick us up at 10:00 for some high-level templing. We start at Pre Rup - which our driver says is one of the prettiest temples in Siem Reap. We don’t disagree. It’s one of the oldest temples in the city, built in 961. We climb some incredibly steep stairs to the top terrace. It’s only afterwards that I learn the temple was built to honour Mount Meru, the sacred mountain of the Buddhist religion - hence the steep construction. Coming back down the steps is a somewhat vertiginous experience.

We move on to Ta Prohm, which was featured in the Angelina Jolie iteration of the Tomb Raider movies. It’s wild - literally. There are trees growing out of various bits of temple, and it feels like it’s set into the heart of the jungle. We inadvertently join a Russian tour group while wandering around. The intersection of nature and human-made structure is an enchanting one. It is also a highly sweaty one. The heat index for today is in the low 40s, and the humidity is upwards of 85%. By the time we get back to our ride, my bandanna is sopping wet. Not a bit damp - but like I’ve just dunked it in a basin of water. Bora (our driver) suggests a beer, and I think this is an excellent idea.

Our next stop is Bayon, famous for the faces carved into the stone edifices. It’s incredibly beautiful. It also, in places, has a strange smell, which we struggle to identify. We come across a few content creators, in the midst of creating content, but it’s barely a patch on the crowds at Angkor Wat yesterday - I find the experience a far more interesting, engaging and enjoyable one, at least partially as a result.

Our last stop is the South gate of the Angkor Thom complex of which Bayon is a part. A large, human-made canal surrounds the complex, and we see a herd of buffalo taking to the water to cool down. Further downstream, there’s a small fishing boat, busy at work.

Bora drops us near our hotel, at a restaurant called Best Mom. Neither of us has eaten yet today, and I’m ready for some food, and a Ganzberg, which I think is the only widely available Cambodian lager I’ve yet to try. It’s not quite in the same derisory category as Krud, but it’s not a million miles away. Our lunch, on the other hand, is excellent. A Khmer pork stir-fry for me, and some fried noodles for Felix.

The food has a soporific effect on me. Back at the hotel, I lie down to read, and quickly feel snoozy. I bank a solid 1.5 hours, while Felix heads out to the gym. I wake up, thinking the A/C is on the fritz, as it’s suddenly very loud. It takes me a second to realise that it’s the noise coming from the deluge outside. This might just be the heaviest rain I’ve seen yet. I park myself on my balcony to watch the show…

22:30
It’s still pissing it down when we head out at 19:30. Felix is definitely feeling in much finer fettle, and has even been to the gym for a solid workout this afternoon - the loon that he is. We jump in a tuk-tuk to head to Chanrey House, an awesome looking restaurant near the riverside. It’s smarter than I perhaps expected it to be. My sleeveless t-shirt/bandanna combo is maybe a little underdressed. Felix is approaching needing to do some laundry, so purely by chance donned an actual shirt, so is particularly smug.

The menu looks incredible. Pricy (at least for this trip), but incredible. Felix treats himself to a $6 bottle of Perrier, and I grab a glass of South African Chardonnay, that is really pretty good. Our starters are fresh Spring rolls, and a banana blossom salad. Both are great. Felix has a fillet steak for his main, and I have a stuffed seabass dish, with some black mushrooms. Awesome all around. The black mushrooms served with the seabass are one of the most umami laden things I can remember eating. Just punching.

We forego dessert, and head next door to grab a post-prandial. My mango daiquiri is delicious, and I particularly like the use of a lemongrass stalk as a straw. There’s some music happening when we arrive - what sounds like some traditional Cambodian/Khmer vocals, but supported by a decent acoustic guitarist and some piano. Pretty cool. I suspect we’d both be happy to occupy these comfy seats for a stretch, but we’ve got an early start for an 08:00 bus to Phnom Penh tomorrow morning, so decide to call it a night.もっと詳しく