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Across England

May - July 2018
A 38-day adventure by Cathy Read more
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  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 12

    St Sunday Crag

    June 9, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    So what if it is Saturday, this Crag was our goal for the day. We set off on a beautiful morning, up to Grisedale Pass then down a bit to Grisedale Tarn, the great little lake in the photo. From there we had a choice of 3 routes, straight down the valley to Patterdale, the very high route which is described as a precarious descent with sheer drops on either side or via St Sunday Crag. It is said that St Sunday Crag has perhaps the best views on the entire route but it started to rain not long after we headed up. It wasn’t cold and there was no wind but the views vanished in the mist. The rain cleared as we headed down, in time for a lunch break looking down towards Ullswater and Patterdale. We could see a cricket match happening in the valley below.
    Although we climb again tomorrow almost as high, St Sunday will be our highest point for the trip at about 800 metres and our distance for the day was about 17kilometres.

    Well done to Fran and Anne from group1, who conquered the high route over Helvellyn and Siding Edge.

    Our accomodation is a bit spread out tonight, 4 of us in Patterdale, the rest a couple of kilometres down the road, we’ll have a quiet dinner for 4 at the White Lion Inn. There is a red telephone box in this village, with an actual phone in it, handy because I have no phone reception here.

    I’ll miss the bleating of Herdwick sheep when we leave the Lakes District, I can hear them outside our window now.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 13

    Ship Shape in Shap

    June 10, 2018 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Our high point today was Kidsty Pike at 784 metres. It was quite a climb, up past Angle Tarn and The Knot. Just after leaving Patterdale we could hear a cuckoo. Again we had a bit of rain on the way up but it cleared for a bit at the top so we didn’t miss out on the views. The midges were biting at the top, they obviously know that’s were they can get a good feed.
    We saw quite a few “fell runners” out today, racing straight down the hills. I was expecting one to do a face plant and roll the rest of the way down, but somehow they managed to stay upright.

    My wet weather gear is quite a site, my coat is unfashionably long, down to my knees, I think it’s about 25 years old or more, and at least one size too big. My pants are made for some about 175cm tall, perhaps that’s the average height of a bush walker, but I’m only 164cm.

    The midges knew about the lunch stop as well, at the bottom of the steep descent. After lunch we walked along beside Haweswater Reservoir and ended up at Brampton Grange. A taxi was arranged to take us into Shap for tonight and to ferry us back to join the route tomorrow. 25 kilometres and a big climb, not a bad effort.

    We’re now leaving the Lake District behind us. I’ll miss the sound of the herdies bleating, we’ve climbed some fabulous hills, and the views were spectacular.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 14

    Over the stiles to Orton

    June 11, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    So we backtracked by taxi shuttle to where we left off yesterday. The taxis route was through very narrow roads with high dry stone walls on either side, luckily we didn’t meet anything big coming the other way.

    The walk then took us through paddocks, along beside a creek, over a very old bridge and over many stiles to Shap Abbey, not looking too shabby seeing as it dates back to 1200. Cattle and sheep in the paddocks now, so we have cow shit on our boots as well. I lost count of the number of stiles we climbed over. They’re not too keen on dogs wandering through the paddocks here.
    We stopped for lunch in Shap before heading off to cross the M6 motorway, luckily there is a pedestrian bridge.

    The geology changes here to limestone country, and while there were still plenty of sheep around it generally was a bit wilder than our morning walk through the paddocks. I’m not sure what the breed of sheep is now. There were some interesting rock formations.

    Finally we dropped down into the village of Orton, the day seemed longer than the expected 19 kilometres, my phone registered 22, so with the late start we were too late to visit the Chocolate Shop, maybe in the morning before we leave.

    For a lot of the day we could look back and see Kidsty Pike off in the distance, we’ve come a long way.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 15

    Encounters

    June 12, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our first encounter for the day was the Chocolate Shop. Thanks Allison for the yummy peppermint chocolate she shared with us at our stops.

    Next was a mob of sheep coming down the lane towards us, the lane had high stone walls on either side, we were able to get off the road into a gate way as they came past.

    We crossed Ravenstonedale Moor, and had a lunch break on Smardale Bridge, then up onto Smardale Fell, and then down to Kirkby Stephen. After one of our “green room” stops I left my poles behind and had to do a quick sprint back to retrieve them. The team entertained themselves with wild flower photography while they waited.

    At about the last stile before Kirkby Stephen, there was a cow poking her head through the wall. OK we thought, and John gently urged her away and climbed to the top of the wall to find a large bull in the field, just the other side of the stile. Luckily the bull was much more interested in the cows than in us so we quietly edged around him and headed across the paddock.

    Our B&B host at the Jolly Farmer greeted us with scones, jam and cream and a cup of tea. It’s a great little town with a 13th century church, built on the site of an old Saxon church. It is now the parish church for all denominations. Just inside the church is the Loki Stone, carved by Vikings.

    We’re ready for a big day tomorrow, Julie even has a new pair of boots.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 16

    Nine Standards Rigg and a Cream Tea

    June 13, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    What are the Nine Standards? A serious of beautifully built cairns of different shapes and sizes lined up along the ridge of the Pennines, the climb up there was our first goal for the day. They are supposed to be old boundary markers, but there could be other theories. It was windy and cold at the top, 661metres, so we didn’t hang around. At this point we crossed into Yorkshire. There are 3 routes through this area depending on the season, we took the red route, which is the designated route for May to July. This is a way of trying to manage the erosion caused by all the walkers.

    Then the next highlight of the day, across the peat bogs! Actually we were lucky, the worst part has had some stones laid across it and it hasn’t been very wet lately. Our trusty guide found the route through for us and we came through with dry feet, although Julie’s new shoes are not as pristine any more. There were a lot of boggy patches all the way down.

    Then it was down to Ravenseat. This seems to be a bit of an institution on the C2C route. Amanda Owen and her husband breed sheep and have 9 or 10 children and sell tea and scones to passing walkers. She has written a couple of books about life as a Yorkshire farmer. Apparently she is quite a character. She wasn’t there today so the tea and scones were served by Mr Owen and the farm helper in their muddy gum boots and dirty jeans. Most of the kids were at school but there were a couple of little girls playing around. Great scones and a strong brew of tea.

    From there it was an easy stroll down to the valley of the Upper Swale River and into Keld. About 20 kilometres for the day.

    We have crossed the Pennines and we are now about half way!!

    Just a bit of information about cream teas. This is basically a Devonshire tea, but of course you can’t call it that in Yorkshire. Apparently Devon is having jam first with cream on top of your scone and Cornwall has cream first with jam on top. Yorkshire just has cream tea.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 17

    Gales on the Dales

    June 14, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    There were 2 options for today’s route, the high road and the low road. The choice was made for us by the weather, very high winds after a storm came through last night. Our guide thought we might be blown off the top if we tried the moors.

    Even on the low route we were blown about by very strong winds. Lots of branches blown down overnight.

    We set off, well rugged up in our wet weather gear, first down to the very small village of Keld to check out the little Heritage Centre, it’s focus is farming heritage, particularly the old stone cow barns that were used for cattle during winter, then up past a waterfall and on to our route which followed the Swale River all day. Swaledale is the northern most and wildest of the Yorkshire Dales.

    We had a break for “elevenses” in the village of Gunnerside. Mary Shaw’s cafe was doing a great service.

    Most of the day we were walking through fields, and to go from field to field we squeezed through gaps in the dry stone walls that mostly had gates on strong springs. I’m sure the gaps were getting smaller as the day went on, and the steps higher and higher. Anyway we all managed to squeeze through despite English breakfasts and cream teas.

    My phone says about 20 kilometres for the day.

    We are now in Reeth, apparently the unofficial capital of Swaledale. It was a centre for lead mining in the past. We would have seen the remnants of the lead mining if we’d taken the high route. The number of pubs in the village is probably due to its mining heritage. Now it thrives on tourism so there’s also a few tea shops. It’s a cute little village with a green common in the centre appropriately called The Green. There’s also a Yorkshire Dales National Park office. Apparently some episodes of All Creatures Great and Small were filmed here.

    I just got an update on the weather over dinner. Some one saw on the news that today was the windiest June day ever in England. The low road was a wise choice.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 18

    Rocketing in to Richmond

    June 15, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Well, not really, but it wasn’t a long day and not much climbing. 18 kilometres. A few narrow gaps in stone walls, but eventually we came to a gate without a fence. We all dutifully went through the gate.

    There was a bit of a climb up to Marrick on a path known as the Nuns’ Steps. Apparently the nuns from the Marrick Priory constructed 375 steps up the hill. The old priory is now partly in ruins but is the site of an Outdoor Education Centre.

    We had a break in the tiny village of Marske, where there is an old church, St Edmund the Martyr. He was a Saxon king, knocked off by the Danes in 870. At the back of the church was a table of snacks for sale, money for the church maintenance funds.

    Richmond has an old castle on the top of a hill in the middle of town, with cute little houses in narrow streets backing the castle walls. I’m not sure about the roads here though, they seem a bit weak, lucky we’re walking not driving.

    Tonight was a good chance for a change from pub meals. Pasta at a Sicilian restaurant was great.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 19

    There is nothing to do in DW

    June 16, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Although we had 24 kilometres to walk today our guide was sure we didn’t need to leave Richmond until after 10 because “there is nothing to do in Danby Wiske” and the walk was generally flat farm land. There is only a pub and a church.

    Anyway leaving after 10 meant the rain had cleared. Our first stop was the ruin of Easby Abbey and St Agatha’s church. On the way to the Abbey there was a plaque about the sad story of a drummer boy. Read about in the photo. The abbey was one of many knocked over by Henry VIII. St Agatha’s church however is still the local parish church, and has a beautiful fresco dating back to 1250. The church was very welcoming with a jug and supplies laid out for tea at the back of the church.

    We stopped for lunch at St Mary’s church in Bolton-on-Swale. The church dates back to the 14th century. This church was even more welcoming, tea supplies, a note saying feel free to use the toilet, a big box of food supplies for any one in need, the back of the church was like a small community centre.

    The church is famous for its memorial to Henry Jenkins. Henry apparently lived to be 169 years old. Evidence of his age is found in court records because he was able to give evidence about who had owned what in land disputes after the civil war.

    About 4 miles from supposedly boring Danby Wiske we were caught in a thunder storm. A massive downpour, thunder and lightening. So we had plenty to do when we got to Danby Wiske, organising to get all our gear dry.

    The wide plain we are crossing, heading for the North York moors is the vale of Mowbray. Danby Wiske is the lowest point on our route.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 20

    Roads to Osmotherly

    June 17, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Most of today’s walk was on roads, usually quiet, and not quite as exciting as climbing hills. We did have a sprint across the A19 freeway. Lucky it was Sunday or we might have had a long wait for a break in the traffic.

    Thanks to the White Swan Inn, Danby Wiske, for drying our boots and coats last night.

    We walked through some wheat fields, with a few tight squeezes through the hedges between the fields.

    At our “little lunch” stop we could look back to see the Pennines in the distance. Our lunch stop was at the Mount Grace Priory. A Priory dating back to 1398, it was dissolved in 1539, Henry VIII again, the ruin is now a National Trust Property. Nobody wanted to pay £8 entry fee so we picnicked in the field next to the car park and visited the shop (and of course the toilet).

    Then on to Osmotherly, about 17 kilometres for the day, and the beginning of the North York Moors National Park.

    Party night tonight, Allison Towner’s birthday. Thanks to John for carrying the cake in his pack, what else can he fit in there?
    What a great way to spend your birthday, thanks for inviting us Allison.    Read more

  • TravelerAcross England
    Day 21

    Chipper in Chopgate

    June 18, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We’ve seen the North Sea! 3 days to go.

    A fabulous walk on the moors. We did some climbing of course, but the rewards were wonderful views.

    Our first stop was a small chapel on the ridge just above Osmotherly, the Mount Grace Chapel of Our Lady. It dates back to 1300 or so but was a ruin until rebuilt around 1960. It would have been a very tranquil spot to sit and admire the view, but for the sound of the ride-on mower and the whipper snipper.

    Then we rejoined the track and headed up onto the moors and into the wind. Actually the wind was behind us but very strong on top. We saw a couple of ancient burial mounds. On top of one peak we came across half the local primary school having lunch, not minding the wind one bit.

    We dropped down to a small cafe in the forest for lunch. Very nice, sitting at a table with a cup of tea with lunch.

    We’re in the North York Moors National Park, said to be one of the largest expanses of heather, but not flowering yet.

    We left the main path to go down to Chop Gate for the night, 20 kilometres for the day. We’ll go back up to the moors in the morning.

    Tonight we celebrated Julie’s official retirement. We had to express some interest in the soccer, England was playing Tunisia. Late up date, England won.    Read more

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