Day 30 - Good hearts, on the Camino

“Walking is the exact balance between spirit and humility." - Gary Snyder.

Day 30 - Vilachá to Airexe - 19.8 km - Approx 5.5 hrs walking time

I had not paid for breakfast at my Albergue because Spanish breakfast is all carbs and coffee. Neither of which I am interested in. I smelled the coffee on waking, and just wanted to get out. I was hoping to be to Portomarín to walk with Annette, by just after 8am. As I came out of the washroom (all packed and ready to go), I smelled the cruel smell of betrayal. These hosts are American. And breakfast, by the smell of it, was bacon and eggs. About face. I paid my 5€ and ate with the rest of the pilgrims!! So much for leaving at 7:30! I finally got out the door at 8:10. Annette had started walking at 8 and was already 2.2 km ahead of me by virtue of where she was staying. No worries. I do like walking alone too.

Off I trot towards Portomarín. First I had to find my way out of this tiny village! I did (obviously) but wasn’t assisted by the dark and the hidden signs. Approaching the city, I walked the tunnel of death. This was a slippery, rocky gully that was part of The Way. Seriously thought I was going to break a leg, but got down in one piece. I was able to skirt the city when I got there, saving myself a hellish set of stairs and at least half a Kilometre. Hey - don’t judge. Shortcuts are good!!

I decided to take the original route from Portimarin which was classed as the alternate, rather than the new but primary route. The original route was through forest paths which were so much nicer than along the road. This is a heads down path and I invoked Poppa Roy and Grandpa Roy to help me manage the hills. I think I literally said “Slow, Rhythmic, Strong, Repeat” for at least an hour. Over and over. Oodles of the Shiny Shoe Brigade (those that started in Sarria the day before in their new and clean shoes) passed me. I plodded on. I passed them as they were stripping off clothes, having drinks, donning rain gear etc. Then they’d pass me again. This went on for ages. The trail was lovely and mostly soft, as wee and through pine forests. It was also rather ripe as we went past all the cattle farms!

I had message Annette to let her know where I was, but she was way ahead of me. Around 7km, I was completing another hill, and there’s Annette coming down the hill towards me. She had been face-timing family in AUS and thought she may as well wait for me. I was really happy to see and walk with her again. With an almost 20km day In the process, it’s great to have a buddy. We stopped at about my 9km mark (her 7km) for a tea and coffee beak and then pushed on as we both had a ways to go yet.

We took the alternate route to see the ruins of the Castro (Castle) of Castromaior. One of the most important archaeological sites of the northwest peninsula. At the site, there is a top enclosure that was attached to others
delineated my pits, parapets and walls forming a settlement. It was inhabited from 5 B.C: to I A.D. The recent excavations have discovered up to three different occupations, the most ancient with vegetable houses and the last one strong house from the beginning of the Roman conquest. It was a pretty cool site and I am glad we made the short detour.

We finally arrived at my town of Airexe, around 2pm. Time for a hot shower (I am always freezing after I finish walking) and catch up on messages. After reorganizing my pack, I hit the bar around 4 pm for a hot cup of tea and a wine.

While there, Liz whom I met yesterday joined me - a nurse from Australia (see a theme here?!) We had a great chat and later her friend Sally joined too. The three of us ended up staying for dinner which started at 6:30 and were still there after 8pm. Fabulous meal of pork skewers, salad and fries. I say it was fabulous, but maybe that’s the wine speaking! Nah - it really was good. And at 6.50€, a better deal than the menu del dia.

After dinner, I went to “Clinica del Liz”. She had brought some podiatrist felt and has outfitted my shoes with even more arch support. My poor ankles were singing today when I arrived and I had mentioned this while we where chatting. So, she offered to see if she could help. I will find out tomorrow, as I have another 20+ day ahead of me! Three longer days in a row - let’s see how the poor ankles like that!Read more