Camino de Santiago 2022

September - October 2022
Walking the way of St. James from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela
  • 51footprints
  • 2countries
  • 48days
  • 803photos
  • 20videos
  • 17.4kkilometers
  • 14.4kkilometers
  • Day 1

    My journey on the Camino

    September 13, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today after work, I start my 6+ week journey on the Camino de Santiago!

    The way of St. James is also known as the Camino de Santiago. This name is given to any of the ancient pilgrimage routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia (north-western Spain), It is said that the remains of the saint are buried in the Cathedral.

    Legend holds that after St. James’s death, his remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela. (The name Santiago is derived from Galician Sant Iago or Saint James.)

    The Camino was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middle Ages, together with those to Rome and Jerusalem, and it was a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned.
    By the 1980s, only a few pilgrims per year arrived in Santiago. Later, the route attracted a growing number of modern-day pilgrims from around the globe and now each year, hundreds of thousands of travellers set out to make their way to Santiago de Compostela

    There are dozens of pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims travel by foot, some by bicycle, and a few travel on horseback or by donkey, as some of their medieval counterparts did. This ancient route provides an intense human experience, creating a sense of fraternity amongst travellers and a strong bonding with the land.

    The most popular is the Camino Francés or French route from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - approx 790 km. This is the route I will be taking, but stating in Pamplona. Originally I was to depart from St. Jean Pied-du-Port, FR and hoping to drag my fluffy self over the Pyrenees. However, Westjet has thrice cancelled my flights to Spain. So, I have since rebooked via the UK and will now start my journey by foot, from Pamplona, ES - still a journey of approx 725km. The new start will cut my walk time by approx 4 days (and 60km). This works out well, as I have volunteered to be the host at a post-Camino pilgrims retreat at the end of Oct, for 4 nights. So, I will be on a timeline!!
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  • Day 1

    What the hell do I think I’m doing?

    September 13, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” – Lao Tsu

    I have started those first steps! This may not be a walking journey of a thousand miles, but it WILL be a bloody long walk!

    Currently in Toronto waiting for my next flight to Gatwick, UK, and then from Gatwick to Bilbao, ES. I have buses and accommodations booked for my first two nights. Then, I am going to strap on my backpack and walk for 730ish km. WHO AM I ACTUALLY KIDDING?? This however, is the plan.

    Let me explain something though….I may not do it. By that, I mean I may not walk every one of those 730+ km. And you know what? I am just going to have to learn to be ok with that.

    Overweight - I have gained back most of the weight I lost which will make this a huge challenge. I have no one to blame but myself. And I do. Daily. First goal of my Camino: learn to have some grace with myself and start loving myself for who and what I am - to myself and others.

    Back issues -I have a sore back at the moment and hoping I’m ok to carry my pack on this journey. Second goal of my Camino: It’s ok to have assistance to reach my goals - I can have my pack forwarded if I need to.

    Out of shape - along with the weight gain, I’ve gotten lazy again. I have been planning this Camino for over a year. Did I train? Hell no. Went for less than a dozen decent walks and only a few with my pack on. So what does that mean? Likely that I may need to take a bus or taxi every once in a while. Or every day, to keep myself on track. And I will need to learn to live with this too.

    Will I “fail”? Again, hell NO. It is not an option. I will get to Santiago and I WILL walk every last step of the last 100km from Sarria to Santiago, at the very least. Between Pamplona and Sarria is anyone’s guess as to what will happen. Whatever happens, I promise to provide an open an honest account of my journey (maybe too honest for some people lol!). The highs, the lows and the magic, if I am lucky enough to be a recipient of occasions of the “Camino provides”.

    Am I excited to be undertaking this most unusual (for me) journey? Yeppers! I am also a tiny bit terrified!

    There is no right or wrong way to do the Camino (although the purists would disagree strongly). We all do what we can, how we can and when we can.

    This is MY Camino. I will do it MY way - whatever that turns out to be.

    Thanks for following along!!
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  • Day 3

    Tomorrow is the day!

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    “Home is behind, the world ahead.” - J. R. R. Tolkien

    Well, I made it safe and sound to Spain last night. Finally got to my Albergue at 9:30pm after 3 flights, 2 buses and a total of 23 1/2 hrs since I left home.

    Today I needed to get to Pamplona, my start point. I start walking tomorrow. No idea how far I will make it - the ideal is approx 25 km but the reality I am sure, will be less.

    Pamplona is a lovely city (as far as cities go). I was able to check in to my Albergue - Casa Ibarrola then went in search of new set of poles, and a small pocket knife. Saw the Cathedral de Santa Maria (stunning) and had a tour of the famous Plaza de Tores de Pamplona (where the bullfights happen and the running of the bulls ends, during the festival of St Fermin). Had dinner on the Central Plaza and indulged in one of the best burgers I have ever had! Huge homemade patty, slab of goat cheese, bacon, caramelized onions, lettuce and tomato. And of course a 2€ glass of wine. I think I am going to enjoy Spain :-)
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  • Day 4

    Day 1 done - and it didn’t kill me!

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    “Defeat is always momentary.” – Peter Jackson

    Day 1 - Pamplona to Uterga -17.5 km

    This quote is the story of my day. I honestly wasn’t sure if I was going to make it to Alto del Padron - where the iconic steel pilgrim statues are, and 14km from my albergue in Pamplona. There was an elevation gain of “only” 330 feet, but I was terrified I wouldn’t be able to make it. I did, but think I had suffered a bit of dehydration on the way. I rested and chatted to a lady named Sue from the US and when I went to stand and continue, I really didn’t feel well! Another 10mins, some water and beef jerky later, I was good to go. Made it to the top and had a little break to video chat with family.

    From there, it was 1.2km downhill on rather dodgy loose rocks which really stresses the joints. A further 2km brought me to Urtega. I had not planned to stop here, but the albergues for the next two towns were full. I ended up getting the last room available, which I am sharing with two young German women - both young enough to be my daughters.

    Daily routine has started of quick shower to wash the trail dust off, hand wash laundry and chill out!! Lovely dinner at the albergue and an early night for this pilgrim! Tomorrow is a new day and it’s mostly downhill - so hopefully a bit easier than today!
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  • Day 5

    Day 2 - A long slow slog

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    “After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.” – George Macauley Trevelyan

    Day 2 - Uterga to Villatuerta -15.5km + 10km

    Ok - I am day late posting. Don’t judge. A lack of electrical outlets at my Albergue was the culprit.

    Saturday dawned cool but beautiful. I even got a quick chat in on What’s Ap with one of my daughters who was still awake at 1:40am! I was meeting someone in Puenta La Reina at 9:30 so I gave myself plenty of time. Despite apps and maps, you ever know exactly what’s ahead!

    Sabrina and Paula (the German girls that I bunked with) passed me and I them, a couple of times but we walked into Puenta La Reina at 9 am. They had a rest while I walked through town and found a cute little bar (bar =cafe here) for a tea and pintoxs of toast with tomato paste, olive oil and prosciutto. Marie showed up at 9:30 and gave me back my backpack that she had borrowed. And I made my first big Camino mistake. We hung out and chatted while she ate, and started off again at 11:00. Not smart at all!!! 11:00 and baking hot. About 1.5km from town, a nasty long and reasonably steep hill awaited. I was dying. Stopping every 20-30 steps and in total misery. Eating tiny blackberries that grew beside the trail and amongst the fennel, to cheer myself upI seriously thought that due to the last start from Puenta La Reina, that I’d be the last person on this part of the Camino. I was wrong of course. But at least there were less than 5 people that passed me on this stretch and witnessed my frustration and tears.

    I finally made it to Muñez which was the next town. Had a rest at the town fountain and refilled my water, soaked my hat and put it on. It was probably about 1:30 at this time. It had taken me ages to get up that hill. Decided that since Marie had told me the girl in her room had woken up with bites all over herself, and Marie was coming up with spots while we had breakfast, that I should make sure I had no hitchhikers on my small backpack. Probably too late if there were, as I had tossed it in my backpack on top of my only long sleeved wool shirt, which I had taken off just before she arrived. Anyway, no bugs present so I was relieved. Got up to carry on and my foot pain was incredible in my right foot. I’ve had this before (neglected to get it checked before I left) and it bothers me most after resting. Once I am able to get moving, it’s pretty much ok. But those first 20 steps…oh boy!

    I got moving and took it slowly. Before I got out of town, I caught up with a lady named Karen from the States and we walked to the next town together, admiring the fig trees, olive groves and vineyards. We may have had a quick snack of grapes along the way :-). We arrived at Ciraqui to the sounds of music and all the people in town walking around in white (some in red) with red bandanas. It’s Festival time - for over a week! Oh it was so lovely. Decided I wanted to stay here and I knew Paula and Sabrina were too, but not which Albergue they were at. I made my way to an Albergue and found they had space but that it would be noisy. Hhhmmm. I really needed sleep, and because I had been sitting down, my foot was killing me again. I decided to take a taxi to the next town, but it would be a two hour wait. As I was on the phone, the girls came out of the hostel. Now I was In a quandary. They were encouraging me to stay but I wanted to get to the next town and get some sleep. The deciding factor came when I saw Marie’s bunkmate from the night before go into the Albergue. If she was staying there, I wasn’t. Again, didn’t want hitchhikers (the bed bug kind). I called an Albergue in Villatuerta and they felt bad that I would have to wait for 2 hrs for a taxi - so the owner came and gave me a lift! The Camino provides.

    I got settled into the new Albergue and went to a bar for a tea. Ended up staying there the rest of the day chatting with people and had dinner with two older guys from the US named Bill and Rip. Lovely evening.

    Early night - and yes- I finally got some sleep!!
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  • Day 6

    Day 3 - A day of reckoning

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    ."Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience” - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

    Day 3 - Villatuerta to Villamayor de Monjardin
    -13.1 km

    7:15 am start and today was a hard day. Physically and emotionally. I definitely had a leak in my waterworks! So many times today I just cried. I am disappointed in the distances I’m walking as they are not as long as I had hoped. Disappointed in myself for gaining my weight back, not training for this and all manner of other things. And honestly, despite the beauty, the amazing people I have met and the fact I am privileged enough to be here at all, I just kept thinking “I am NOT having fun. I am NOT enjoying this”. One thought built on the other and went on repeat as I slowly worked my way up and down hills and through towns.

    I rested a lot. Had breakfast in Estella at a lovely place called Namas-Te (a tea house!). As the server put my pintoxs in front of me, in walked Bill and Rip. We ate pretty quickly (wasn’t getting caught out again). They were headed on the alternate route to Luquin and I to Villamayor de Monjardin. The ladies in Namas-Te could see I was upset. More tears with them.

    The blues hit me bad again on my way out of Estella. I cried and walked and cried some more. I stopped at the Irache wine fountain at the Monestario Irache. (the vineyards add 100L of wine to the fountain everyday, for pilgrims to enjoy). Carried on walking and cried some more. I was actually hating what I am doing, at that point. Rested a bit more and of course took ages to get moving again, due to the foot pain.

    Made it past Irache and on to Azqueta. Lots of downhill this section which means only one thing…the uphills are coming. Rested here, cried a bit more. Got going again for the last 2km - majority of it uphill. Not steep this time - just continuous. I cried when seeing the church spire of Villamayor de Monjardin - well made the motions - I had no tears left!

    Got to the Albergue at about 1:15pm. I have not made any reservations and they don’t open until 3pm on Sundays. So myself and other pilgrims sat and waited. I was desperately hoping for a bed (they only have 21!) as I knew the next town was “Completo” (fully booked already). I got lucky! Bed in a shared room of 5. Luck is subjective though…hit the shower to find I may have picked up some hitch hikers after all. Red spots all over my chest, torso and arms. Right where my long black shirt had been sitting. And the black shirt was stuffed into my backpack beside the lightweight backpack that Marie gave me back the day before :-(. Hand washed my clothes, dried in the sun and sealed in my drysack to avoid any cross contamination with my other clothes… I hope. My next stop needs to have a proper laundry and dryer so I can heat dry everything and hopefully prevent and more issues. Other than that little downer, it was a great dinner with all the other pilgrims and volunteers from the Albergue, and a quiet evening.

    No more tears. Well, today anyway! I am able bodied and need to be grateful for that. Grateful for my ability to carry a pack and slog it out. Grateful that I am here. Part of my Camino is to learn to be kinder to myself and have a bit more grace - for myself and those around me. Big lessons learned today, but I am sure it won’t be the last one!

    We will see what tomorrow brings. More kms I think, but I hear it is flatter. Woohoo!
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  • Day 7

    Day 4 - New day, new attitude

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    “Forward is forward” - Perigrino Lisa, from Sweden

    Day 4 -Villamayor de Monjardin to Sansol - 19.1 km

    Today was a much better day. Out today before the sun was up, I left the Albergue at 7:20am. The trail was mostly flat once I went downhill from Villamayor de Monjardin, with some inclines which were much more manageable.

    Part way to the next tow - Los Arcos, another perigrino (female pilgrim) pulled up beside me. We chatted for a bit and when I commented about how slow I was, she said “forward is forward” and then strides away. I mulled this over for a bit - because what else do I have to do while walking alone. And I came to realize she is right. I may be slow, but I am moving forward all the time. This helped the kms click by this morning.

    As the way was mostly flat, I was actually making good time and was happy with my progress, for a change. After 12.2 km (no breaks, unlike yesterday!), I arrived in Los Arcos. I headed to the main square where a bar was open for breakfast. Sat down with a lovely roll, large o.j (which I never drink) and a tea. Rested the foot - which is really the worst thing I can do - and just enjoyed my surroundings. I decided that although only a short day, I would like to stay and wander this town as it is larger than most I have stayed in. As I was looking for an Albergue, Lisa - the perigrino I had spoken to on the trail - came to the plaza without her pack. We chatted a while and she told me the Municpal Albergue opened at 12 and rooms were only 8€. My kind of deal!! So, I hot-footed it over to add my pack to the growing line of backpacks awaiting the opening of the Albergue. As I sat there tending to my ankle, more and more 20 somethings arrived. Lots of greetings like long lost friends. Laughter. Loud talking. This old broad decided she wasn’t in the mood for a party tonight and called to find a bed in the next town, Sansol. I got one on my first enquiry and decided I would walk the additional 6.9 km after all. It had been my original goal but Los Arcos was such a pretty town I had decided to stay. Plans change in a dime, here on the Camino!

    At 11:20 I headed off to Sansol. Before I got my socks and shoes back on though, I saw Nancy and Dave from Washington State. I have seen them every day and have ended up in the same Albergues 2 nights already. Really nice couple who are travelling with their son Louie. Nancy homeschools him and what better way to learn than with life experiences! Louie is always way ahead. Kid passed me before Los Arcos today and then started running ahead. Running. Crazy! Anyway, they went ahead but I caught up to them somewhere around 4km to Sansol. We walked most of the way into town together and I tell you, it was a scorcher. Nancy gave me a package of electrolytes for adding to my water and I promised to give one back when we reached town. I was SO very grateful for those at that time. I had some, but didn’t want to take my pack off to get them since I forgotten to put them in my handbag this morning. Nancy totally saved me!

    We eventually made town but they were way ahead of me at this point due to the long slow hill into town. Have I mentioned I am not good on hills?? I arrived at my Albergue to see Louie already there and Nancy and Dave coming around the corner. I had no idea we were staying at the same place, and they were a bit curious as to how I beat them there hahaha. I took the shorter route - plain and simple!

    No drier here, so hoping I can do my laundry in Logroño tomorrow as it is an actual city and not a small town like the other places I have stopped.

    Before dinner, headed to a bar at another Albergue as they were the only place in town that was open. Everyone else was still closed for siesta. Enjoyed the shaded patio with a large G&T then went back to my “room”. Albergue owner is quite miserable and I feel like we are putting him out and interrupting his plans for the day.

    Dinner at the Albergue tonight was fantastic, despite the owner pretty much accusing us of stealing cutlery and glasses! Huge salad, bread, pasta carbonara and a custard style dessert. Great food and new friends. Perfect way to end my day!
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  • Day 8

    Day 5 - “Rest day”

    September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    “There are plenty of difficult obstacles in your path. Don't allow yourself to become one of them." - Ralph Marston.

    Day 5 - Sansol to Logroño by bus

    Today’s walk is called the “knee wrecker” due to the steep inclines and declines, and the many, many hills and valleys. Uuummm, no thank you. I took the bus just after 8 am and was to Logroño before 9. By 11 I had secured a private room (with its own bathroom) and left my bag at the pension while I went out to explore.

    Logroño is celebrating - Fiesta de San Mateo - all week. Now that’s a party! The day kicked off with a band and food tastings in the plaza. The line ups were crazy! One Pintxos or tapas for 3€, with a personal sized bottle of local wine. Such a good deal, I braved the lines to try two different ones - a chicken skewer at one and then bread with thinly sliced pork belly strip and homemade sausage. Both were excellent, and the wine was good too!

    Other than wander out a few times in the day, I did nothing. Felt a bit guilty as everyone else I know were slogging it out - particularly between Sansol and Viana. Got my laundry washed and dried at the Pension, Met up with Sabrina who gave me the necklace they had picked up for me. Tried and failed to book a physiotherapist to check on my ankle and no appointments tomorrow as it’s a national holiday. So, not sure what to do.

    Decided to head out to Calle de Laurel which is a street known for tapas bars (along with the surrounding streets). The place was hopping! Everyone is in party mode and they don’t have to work tomorrow. The streets were filled - and not one mask was to be seen. I tried 3 items and had 2 glasses of wine. First was an asparagus with ham and cheese tapas. Next was a charcoal grilled chicken skewer like this afternoon. Saved the best for last. A tapas sized roll with grilled Iberian pork, Brie and a secret sauce - some kind of garlic oil I think. I had to order again as it was freaking amazing!

    I knew Dave and Nancy were planning on hitting up the street too, so I messaged to let them know about this place. Within a minute of ordering again, they were there. They had already been roaming the street. Perfect timing! They ordered their beers and tapas and we just hung out, charred and people watched. What an amazing evening, full of good company, good vibes and zest for life!

    I have pretty much decided to walk to Navarette tomorrow. It’s only 13.1 km. But it is also mostly uphill. Can’t say it will be a fun day, but I will give it a go. What doesn’t kill us, makes us stronger, right?

    Now if only the people’s tv in the room adjoining mine wasn’t right by my ear, I might be able to get some sleep!
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  • Day 9

    Day 6 - Shorter but lovely day

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    "Just pick up your courage and walk away. Don't waste time. The longer one drags on, the amount of pain accumulates." -Dick Hirayama

    Day 6 - Logroño to Navarette 13.1 km - 7:30am start

    I woke up early as usual and just wanted to get out and get the heck going so todays walk would be over. I did t want to walk, but I couldn’t just sit there for a full day babying my foot. And I wasn’t up to another day of Fiesta. So, I was walking.

    As I sat there procrastinating, I read my messages and comments on social. I noticed I had a private message here. As I read this message, which was from an old colleague, I got all teary again. This is not someone that uses social media, on principle. And yet they took the time to not only read my posts, but to reach out - as they too have done the Camino. They told me it is tough. It breaks you and it makes you. And they sent me the Pilgrim’s Prayer (I will do a post just for this). I was so touched, as I needed to read this today. I put my pack on with a lighter heart and headed out.

    As I hit the streets, the clean up from last night was in full swing. Street cleaning, “power washing” with fire hoses etc. wasn’t that a party?? Getting it all nice and clean for todays celebration! So many people were still wandering around, a lot of them drunk as they hadn’t gone to bed yet if their eyes were any judge.

    I got out of the central area and spied a van across the street, by the hotel there. Jacotrans!! Now I know this won’t mean anything to you unless you’ve walked the Camino, but what a sight for sore eyes (and ankle!). This company (amongst others) are a baggage transportation company. They pick up your bag at your current Albergue and deliver it to your next one, for 5€ per trip. I had never used them but decided today was the day for another “first”. Although I caught them a bit off guard before they started pickups, they graciously allowed me to send my pack. The Camino provides! I quickly grabbed my day pack, water and first aid kit and damn near skipped up the street!!

    The walk was lovely. Mostly flat, despite the last few hills into town. I walked with a variety of people at a variety of speeds. Took me 4 hours to cover the 13+ km and I couldn’t have cared less. It’s not a race.

    Along the way, I met a Camino legend -Marcelino Lobato Castillo. I finally got my pilgrim shell and will attach it to my pack tomorrow. I also met a minstrel - for lack of a better word. He was walking towards us, playing a mandolin and singing. It just put a huge smile on my face!

    I got to town and called the physiotherapist back that I had tried to call yesterday. Very long story short, I finally found where I was being directed to and it was an Albergue not a physiotherapist. Lovely. An extra 2+ km up and down damned hills, for nothing. The Spanglish wasn’t working in my favour today lol!!

    Spent the rest of the day hanging out in bars (always wanted to be a barfly!) chatting with other pilgrims and eating amazing tapas!! Not sure this will be a weight loss journey 😂
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  • Day 10

    Day 7 Part 1 - Days like this….

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    “If you are in a bad mood, go for a walk. If you are still in a bad mood, go for another walk."
    -Hippocrates

    Day 7 - Navarette to Santo Domingo de la Caldaza - by bus

    ** Disclaimer - part 1 is about my weird morning and about growing up. If you want to hear about where I am, skip this and head to Part 2” :-)

    Today is a weird day. Not a rest day per such but all the same, an enforced one. I caught the bus again today to try and see a physiotherapist. Was originally going to take the 1:15 bus but as I was awake at 4 and again at 6 due to people leaving the room, I quickly packed and tried to get the 7am bus. I was in time. Bus never came. Realized at 7:20 that I was on the wrong side of the damn road and I had missed it! So, 1:15 it was and in the meantime, I had 6 hours to kill. I was in shorts and a tshirt and found out after leaving the Albergue that it was 8c. I hid out in a cafe for over an hour that was thankfully open, then hit up the quiet and warmth of the beautiful church for a half hour. Made my way next to another cafe where Nancy, Danve and Louie met up with me, just after 10. They are having a well earned rest day in Navarette and had wanted to see me before I hopped on a bus. We hung out there until almost 1, and I was so grateful for their company and companionship. It was hard to say goodbye to these wonderful people, and they will always be part of my transient Camino family. It’s incredible how close you can get to -basically - total strangers, in a matter of a few days.

    I did catch the 1:15 (stood on the correct side this time!!) and made it to Santo Domingo de la Calzada only to find the physio is closed until 25th!! Seriously? I am just going to have to keep on walking and hope for the best. Next place for physio is Burgos, according to the receptionist here. 😭. Think that is 5 days walk. As it is due to rain for a few days, I see more buses in my future. I don’t mind walking in the rain, but up and down hills is a different kettle of fish than what I used to. In the meantime I will google Dr my symptoms and what Dave told me may be the issue (he is a geriatric physiotherapist), and try and find some stretches and hope that works.

    Not sure what the Camino is trying to teach me, but I hope I figure it out quickly!

    Honestly, I likely don’t even need to see someone. I am sure it is something that a few simple stretches will help with. I have wanted to “be sure”, just so I don’t do any real damage. But, chances are it is just something simple and stupid.

    So - I need to put on my big girl parties and stop copping out on the hills and hard parts. Suck it up and deal.

    Maybe that is what the Camino is trying to teach me - stop being a pussy. When the going gets tough, the tough get going. And the weak give up. I don’t want to be weak. Therefore, tomorrow I walk again. I will eventually get to Burgos and take a rest day there so I can see someone. And I will make the appointment in advance if I can, so I don’t get in to this situation again.

    I will still have to bus a bit throughout this journey as I am much slower than anticipated and won’t have time to complete without bussing. C’est La vie.

    Will do a “Part 2” for today about this town, just in case you are already bored to tears.
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