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Camino de Santiago 2022
  • Diane Wheatley
9月 – 10月 2022

Camino de Santiago 2022

Walking the way of St. James from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2022年9月13日
    Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Camino de Santiago route from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela - with elevations

    My journey on the Camino

    2022年9月13日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today after work, I start my 6+ week journey on the Camino de Santiago!

    The way of St. James is also known as the Camino de Santiago. This name is given to any of the ancient pilgrimage routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia (north-western Spain), It is said that the remains of the saint are buried in the Cathedral.

    Legend holds that after St. James’s death, his remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela. (The name Santiago is derived from Galician Sant Iago or Saint James.)

    The Camino was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middle Ages, together with those to Rome and Jerusalem, and it was a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned.
    By the 1980s, only a few pilgrims per year arrived in Santiago. Later, the route attracted a growing number of modern-day pilgrims from around the globe and now each year, hundreds of thousands of travellers set out to make their way to Santiago de Compostela

    There are dozens of pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims travel by foot, some by bicycle, and a few travel on horseback or by donkey, as some of their medieval counterparts did. This ancient route provides an intense human experience, creating a sense of fraternity amongst travellers and a strong bonding with the land.

    The most popular is the Camino Francés or French route from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - approx 790 km. This is the route I will be taking, but stating in Pamplona. Originally I was to depart from St. Jean Pied-du-Port, FR and hoping to drag my fluffy self over the Pyrenees. However, Westjet has thrice cancelled my flights to Spain. So, I have since rebooked via the UK and will now start my journey by foot, from Pamplona, ES - still a journey of approx 725km. The new start will cut my walk time by approx 4 days (and 60km). This works out well, as I have volunteered to be the host at a post-Camino pilgrims retreat at the end of Oct, for 4 nights. So, I will be on a timeline!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Goodbye Ottawa
    My clothes for 6.5 weeks. 3 sets - wear 1, wash 1, spare 1

    What the hell do I think I’m doing?

    2022年9月13日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” – Lao Tsu

    I have started those first steps! This may not be a walking journey of a thousand miles, but it WILL be a bloody long walk!

    Currently in Toronto waiting for my next flight to Gatwick, UK, and then from Gatwick to Bilbao, ES. I have buses and accommodations booked for my first two nights. Then, I am going to strap on my backpack and walk for 730ish km. WHO AM I ACTUALLY KIDDING?? This however, is the plan.

    Let me explain something though….I may not do it. By that, I mean I may not walk every one of those 730+ km. And you know what? I am just going to have to learn to be ok with that.

    Overweight - I have gained back most of the weight I lost which will make this a huge challenge. I have no one to blame but myself. And I do. Daily. First goal of my Camino: learn to have some grace with myself and start loving myself for who and what I am - to myself and others.

    Back issues -I have a sore back at the moment and hoping I’m ok to carry my pack on this journey. Second goal of my Camino: It’s ok to have assistance to reach my goals - I can have my pack forwarded if I need to.

    Out of shape - along with the weight gain, I’ve gotten lazy again. I have been planning this Camino for over a year. Did I train? Hell no. Went for less than a dozen decent walks and only a few with my pack on. So what does that mean? Likely that I may need to take a bus or taxi every once in a while. Or every day, to keep myself on track. And I will need to learn to live with this too.

    Will I “fail”? Again, hell NO. It is not an option. I will get to Santiago and I WILL walk every last step of the last 100km from Sarria to Santiago, at the very least. Between Pamplona and Sarria is anyone’s guess as to what will happen. Whatever happens, I promise to provide an open an honest account of my journey (maybe too honest for some people lol!). The highs, the lows and the magic, if I am lucky enough to be a recipient of occasions of the “Camino provides”.

    Am I excited to be undertaking this most unusual (for me) journey? Yeppers! I am also a tiny bit terrified!

    There is no right or wrong way to do the Camino (although the purists would disagree strongly). We all do what we can, how we can and when we can.

    This is MY Camino. I will do it MY way - whatever that turns out to be.

    Thanks for following along!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    The first Camino markers i have seen!
    The first Camino markers i have seen!Cathedral de Santa MariaPlaza de Tores de PamplonaMatador chapel at the bullring1Best burger ever!Pamplona central plazaThe music man

    Tomorrow is the day!

    2022年9月15日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    “Home is behind, the world ahead.” - J. R. R. Tolkien

    Well, I made it safe and sound to Spain last night. Finally got to my Albergue at 9:30pm after 3 flights, 2 buses and a total of 23 1/2 hrs since I left home.

    Today I needed to get to Pamplona, my start point. I start walking tomorrow. No idea how far I will make it - the ideal is approx 25 km but the reality I am sure, will be less.

    Pamplona is a lovely city (as far as cities go). I was able to check in to my Albergue - Casa Ibarrola then went in search of new set of poles, and a small pocket knife. Saw the Cathedral de Santa Maria (stunning) and had a tour of the famous Plaza de Tores de Pamplona (where the bullfights happen and the running of the bulls ends, during the festival of St Fermin). Had dinner on the Central Plaza and indulged in one of the best burgers I have ever had! Huge homemade patty, slab of goat cheese, bacon, caramelized onions, lettuce and tomato. And of course a 2€ glass of wine. I think I am going to enjoy Spain :-)    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    And so it begins! Camino markers in Pamplona
    Different routes for cycling and walking pilgrimsThe standard marker where there are no buildings to put markers on1Look at this pup! He and his mom are staying in the same albergue.1The far away hills is my first destination today2Getting close to Alto del PadronSo close I can taste it!Made it in one piece!!3Strike a pose!This trail was not fun. But by no means the worst on this pilgrimageI just like doors...Pretty house in Uterga

    Day 1 done - and it didn’t kill me!

    2022年9月16日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    “Defeat is always momentary.” – Peter Jackson

    Day 1 - Pamplona to Uterga -17.5 km

    This quote is the story of my day. I honestly wasn’t sure if I was going to make it to Alto del Padron - where the iconic steel pilgrim statues are, and 14km from my albergue in Pamplona. There was an elevation gain of “only” 330 feet, but I was terrified I wouldn’t be able to make it. I did, but think I had suffered a bit of dehydration on the way. I rested and chatted to a lady named Sue from the US and when I went to stand and continue, I really didn’t feel well! Another 10mins, some water and beef jerky later, I was good to go. Made it to the top and had a little break to video chat with family.

    From there, it was 1.2km downhill on rather dodgy loose rocks which really stresses the joints. A further 2km brought me to Urtega. I had not planned to stop here, but the albergues for the next two towns were full. I ended up getting the last room available, which I am sharing with two young German women - both young enough to be my daughters.

    Daily routine has started of quick shower to wash the trail dust off, hand wash laundry and chill out!! Lovely dinner at the albergue and an early night for this pilgrim! Tomorrow is a new day and it’s mostly downhill - so hopefully a bit easier than today!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    7:45 am departure from Uterga
    Always remember to look behind uou as well!Mural on the wayEntering ObanosPilgrim statue outside the churchMyself, Paula and Sabrina at the city gateEntering Puenta de La Reina1Beautiful town!Puenta de La ReinaThis may not look bad - but it really challenges me. Felt like forever!Cemetary outside MuñezSo many grapes!Festival time in Ciraqui2Entrance to the church in Ciraqui

    Day 2 - A long slow slog

    2022年9月17日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    “After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.” – George Macauley Trevelyan

    Day 2 - Uterga to Villatuerta -15.5km + 10km

    Ok - I am day late posting. Don’t judge. A lack of electrical outlets at my Albergue was the culprit.

    Saturday dawned cool but beautiful. I even got a quick chat in on What’s Ap with one of my daughters who was still awake at 1:40am! I was meeting someone in Puenta La Reina at 9:30 so I gave myself plenty of time. Despite apps and maps, you ever know exactly what’s ahead!

    Sabrina and Paula (the German girls that I bunked with) passed me and I them, a couple of times but we walked into Puenta La Reina at 9 am. They had a rest while I walked through town and found a cute little bar (bar =cafe here) for a tea and pintoxs of toast with tomato paste, olive oil and prosciutto. Marie showed up at 9:30 and gave me back my backpack that she had borrowed. And I made my first big Camino mistake. We hung out and chatted while she ate, and started off again at 11:00. Not smart at all!!! 11:00 and baking hot. About 1.5km from town, a nasty long and reasonably steep hill awaited. I was dying. Stopping every 20-30 steps and in total misery. Eating tiny blackberries that grew beside the trail and amongst the fennel, to cheer myself upI seriously thought that due to the last start from Puenta La Reina, that I’d be the last person on this part of the Camino. I was wrong of course. But at least there were less than 5 people that passed me on this stretch and witnessed my frustration and tears.

    I finally made it to Muñez which was the next town. Had a rest at the town fountain and refilled my water, soaked my hat and put it on. It was probably about 1:30 at this time. It had taken me ages to get up that hill. Decided that since Marie had told me the girl in her room had woken up with bites all over herself, and Marie was coming up with spots while we had breakfast, that I should make sure I had no hitchhikers on my small backpack. Probably too late if there were, as I had tossed it in my backpack on top of my only long sleeved wool shirt, which I had taken off just before she arrived. Anyway, no bugs present so I was relieved. Got up to carry on and my foot pain was incredible in my right foot. I’ve had this before (neglected to get it checked before I left) and it bothers me most after resting. Once I am able to get moving, it’s pretty much ok. But those first 20 steps…oh boy!

    I got moving and took it slowly. Before I got out of town, I caught up with a lady named Karen from the States and we walked to the next town together, admiring the fig trees, olive groves and vineyards. We may have had a quick snack of grapes along the way :-). We arrived at Ciraqui to the sounds of music and all the people in town walking around in white (some in red) with red bandanas. It’s Festival time - for over a week! Oh it was so lovely. Decided I wanted to stay here and I knew Paula and Sabrina were too, but not which Albergue they were at. I made my way to an Albergue and found they had space but that it would be noisy. Hhhmmm. I really needed sleep, and because I had been sitting down, my foot was killing me again. I decided to take a taxi to the next town, but it would be a two hour wait. As I was on the phone, the girls came out of the hostel. Now I was In a quandary. They were encouraging me to stay but I wanted to get to the next town and get some sleep. The deciding factor came when I saw Marie’s bunkmate from the night before go into the Albergue. If she was staying there, I wasn’t. Again, didn’t want hitchhikers (the bed bug kind). I called an Albergue in Villatuerta and they felt bad that I would have to wait for 2 hrs for a taxi - so the owner came and gave me a lift! The Camino provides.

    I got settled into the new Albergue and went to a bar for a tea. Ended up staying there the rest of the day chatting with people and had dinner with two older guys from the US named Bill and Rip. Lovely evening.

    Early night - and yes- I finally got some sleep!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Look behind you!
    Namas-te EstellaLeaving the old town of EstellaMonestario Irache in the distanceIronmaker just before the MonestarioGorgeous works of art. All hand forgedWasn't dumping my water for wine (its liquid gold on the Camino). But I also wasnt missing out!Views are fantastic!Monestario on top of Mount MonjardinChirch of Villamayor de Montjardin12Our pilgrim's table. Chile, France, Korea, Germany and USA represented.

    Day 3 - A day of reckoning

    2022年9月18日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    ."Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience” - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

    Day 3 - Villatuerta to Villamayor de Monjardin
    -13.1 km

    7:15 am start and today was a hard day. Physically and emotionally. I definitely had a leak in my waterworks! So many times today I just cried. I am disappointed in the distances I’m walking as they are not as long as I had hoped. Disappointed in myself for gaining my weight back, not training for this and all manner of other things. And honestly, despite the beauty, the amazing people I have met and the fact I am privileged enough to be here at all, I just kept thinking “I am NOT having fun. I am NOT enjoying this”. One thought built on the other and went on repeat as I slowly worked my way up and down hills and through towns.

    I rested a lot. Had breakfast in Estella at a lovely place called Namas-Te (a tea house!). As the server put my pintoxs in front of me, in walked Bill and Rip. We ate pretty quickly (wasn’t getting caught out again). They were headed on the alternate route to Luquin and I to Villamayor de Monjardin. The ladies in Namas-Te could see I was upset. More tears with them.

    The blues hit me bad again on my way out of Estella. I cried and walked and cried some more. I stopped at the Irache wine fountain at the Monestario Irache. (the vineyards add 100L of wine to the fountain everyday, for pilgrims to enjoy). Carried on walking and cried some more. I was actually hating what I am doing, at that point. Rested a bit more and of course took ages to get moving again, due to the foot pain.

    Made it past Irache and on to Azqueta. Lots of downhill this section which means only one thing…the uphills are coming. Rested here, cried a bit more. Got going again for the last 2km - majority of it uphill. Not steep this time - just continuous. I cried when seeing the church spire of Villamayor de Monjardin - well made the motions - I had no tears left!

    Got to the Albergue at about 1:15pm. I have not made any reservations and they don’t open until 3pm on Sundays. So myself and other pilgrims sat and waited. I was desperately hoping for a bed (they only have 21!) as I knew the next town was “Completo” (fully booked already). I got lucky! Bed in a shared room of 5. Luck is subjective though…hit the shower to find I may have picked up some hitch hikers after all. Red spots all over my chest, torso and arms. Right where my long black shirt had been sitting. And the black shirt was stuffed into my backpack beside the lightweight backpack that Marie gave me back the day before :-(. Hand washed my clothes, dried in the sun and sealed in my drysack to avoid any cross contamination with my other clothes… I hope. My next stop needs to have a proper laundry and dryer so I can heat dry everything and hopefully prevent and more issues. Other than that little downer, it was a great dinner with all the other pilgrims and volunteers from the Albergue, and a quiet evening.

    No more tears. Well, today anyway! I am able bodied and need to be grateful for that. Grateful for my ability to carry a pack and slog it out. Grateful that I am here. Part of my Camino is to learn to be kinder to myself and have a bit more grace - for myself and those around me. Big lessons learned today, but I am sure it won’t be the last one!

    We will see what tomorrow brings. More kms I think, but I hear it is flatter. Woohoo!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    1Out before the sun rises
    Walking through rural agricultural areas. So very pretty!Pilgrims ahead, pilgrims behindBuen Camino - the pilgrim greeting, meaning good way. The Camino is also know as "The Way"Los Arcos Church of Santa MariaIf you ever doubt that escargot and fenugeek go together, here is proof positive that they do!Love how so many homes decorate their balconies with flowers. And these pots are so cheery!Albergue Karma111Pilgrims dinner.

    Day 4 - New day, new attitude

    2022年9月19日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    “Forward is forward” - Perigrino Lisa, from Sweden

    Day 4 -Villamayor de Monjardin to Sansol - 19.1 km

    Today was a much better day. Out today before the sun was up, I left the Albergue at 7:20am. The trail was mostly flat once I went downhill from Villamayor de Monjardin, with some inclines which were much more manageable.

    Part way to the next tow - Los Arcos, another perigrino (female pilgrim) pulled up beside me. We chatted for a bit and when I commented about how slow I was, she said “forward is forward” and then strides away. I mulled this over for a bit - because what else do I have to do while walking alone. And I came to realize she is right. I may be slow, but I am moving forward all the time. This helped the kms click by this morning.

    As the way was mostly flat, I was actually making good time and was happy with my progress, for a change. After 12.2 km (no breaks, unlike yesterday!), I arrived in Los Arcos. I headed to the main square where a bar was open for breakfast. Sat down with a lovely roll, large o.j (which I never drink) and a tea. Rested the foot - which is really the worst thing I can do - and just enjoyed my surroundings. I decided that although only a short day, I would like to stay and wander this town as it is larger than most I have stayed in. As I was looking for an Albergue, Lisa - the perigrino I had spoken to on the trail - came to the plaza without her pack. We chatted a while and she told me the Municpal Albergue opened at 12 and rooms were only 8€. My kind of deal!! So, I hot-footed it over to add my pack to the growing line of backpacks awaiting the opening of the Albergue. As I sat there tending to my ankle, more and more 20 somethings arrived. Lots of greetings like long lost friends. Laughter. Loud talking. This old broad decided she wasn’t in the mood for a party tonight and called to find a bed in the next town, Sansol. I got one on my first enquiry and decided I would walk the additional 6.9 km after all. It had been my original goal but Los Arcos was such a pretty town I had decided to stay. Plans change in a dime, here on the Camino!

    At 11:20 I headed off to Sansol. Before I got my socks and shoes back on though, I saw Nancy and Dave from Washington State. I have seen them every day and have ended up in the same Albergues 2 nights already. Really nice couple who are travelling with their son Louie. Nancy homeschools him and what better way to learn than with life experiences! Louie is always way ahead. Kid passed me before Los Arcos today and then started running ahead. Running. Crazy! Anyway, they went ahead but I caught up to them somewhere around 4km to Sansol. We walked most of the way into town together and I tell you, it was a scorcher. Nancy gave me a package of electrolytes for adding to my water and I promised to give one back when we reached town. I was SO very grateful for those at that time. I had some, but didn’t want to take my pack off to get them since I forgotten to put them in my handbag this morning. Nancy totally saved me!

    We eventually made town but they were way ahead of me at this point due to the long slow hill into town. Have I mentioned I am not good on hills?? I arrived at my Albergue to see Louie already there and Nancy and Dave coming around the corner. I had no idea we were staying at the same place, and they were a bit curious as to how I beat them there hahaha. I took the shorter route - plain and simple!

    No drier here, so hoping I can do my laundry in Logroño tomorrow as it is an actual city and not a small town like the other places I have stopped.

    Before dinner, headed to a bar at another Albergue as they were the only place in town that was open. Everyone else was still closed for siesta. Enjoyed the shaded patio with a large G&T then went back to my “room”. Albergue owner is quite miserable and I feel like we are putting him out and interrupting his plans for the day.

    Dinner at the Albergue tonight was fantastic, despite the owner pretty much accusing us of stealing cutlery and glasses! Huge salad, bread, pasta carbonara and a custard style dessert. Great food and new friends. Perfect way to end my day!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Never too early for Christmas!
    Concatedral de Santa María de la RedondaPilgrim statue near the tourist officeChicken skwer and wine. 3€Sausage and pork belly tapas and wine. 3€Everything cooked on huge charcol grillsStreet art1Calle del Laurel - the tapas street / areaSeriously the best little sandwich I've ever had!Party time!2Proscuitto on the bone

    Day 5 - “Rest day”

    2022年9月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    “There are plenty of difficult obstacles in your path. Don't allow yourself to become one of them." - Ralph Marston.

    Day 5 - Sansol to Logroño by bus

    Today’s walk is called the “knee wrecker” due to the steep inclines and declines, and the many, many hills and valleys. Uuummm, no thank you. I took the bus just after 8 am and was to Logroño before 9. By 11 I had secured a private room (with its own bathroom) and left my bag at the pension while I went out to explore.

    Logroño is celebrating - Fiesta de San Mateo - all week. Now that’s a party! The day kicked off with a band and food tastings in the plaza. The line ups were crazy! One Pintxos or tapas for 3€, with a personal sized bottle of local wine. Such a good deal, I braved the lines to try two different ones - a chicken skewer at one and then bread with thinly sliced pork belly strip and homemade sausage. Both were excellent, and the wine was good too!

    Other than wander out a few times in the day, I did nothing. Felt a bit guilty as everyone else I know were slogging it out - particularly between Sansol and Viana. Got my laundry washed and dried at the Pension, Met up with Sabrina who gave me the necklace they had picked up for me. Tried and failed to book a physiotherapist to check on my ankle and no appointments tomorrow as it’s a national holiday. So, not sure what to do.

    Decided to head out to Calle de Laurel which is a street known for tapas bars (along with the surrounding streets). The place was hopping! Everyone is in party mode and they don’t have to work tomorrow. The streets were filled - and not one mask was to be seen. I tried 3 items and had 2 glasses of wine. First was an asparagus with ham and cheese tapas. Next was a charcoal grilled chicken skewer like this afternoon. Saved the best for last. A tapas sized roll with grilled Iberian pork, Brie and a secret sauce - some kind of garlic oil I think. I had to order again as it was freaking amazing!

    I knew Dave and Nancy were planning on hitting up the street too, so I messaged to let them know about this place. Within a minute of ordering again, they were there. They had already been roaming the street. Perfect timing! They ordered their beers and tapas and we just hung out, charred and people watched. What an amazing evening, full of good company, good vibes and zest for life!

    I have pretty much decided to walk to Navarette tomorrow. It’s only 13.1 km. But it is also mostly uphill. Can’t say it will be a fun day, but I will give it a go. What doesn’t kill us, makes us stronger, right?

    Now if only the people’s tv in the room adjoining mine wasn’t right by my ear, I might be able to get some sleep!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Wasnt that a party?!
    Camino magic in action! Wont be the last time i use them!This bakery smelled devine. I was only window shopping thoughUltreia! Another typical Camino symbol/greeting. But first one I have aeen so far.These guys were so cheeky! Came right up to you looking for foodLake in Parque de la Granjerra y la BarrancaCamino Legend. I forgot to get a stamp in my credencial from him :-(Many fountains all along the wayThe strolling minstrel1Toro! Crowns the top of a hill outside Navarette1Chatting with MeganMore fountains!Myself, Nancy, Louie and DaveStreet of Navarette2Where is spent late afternoon / early evening just chatting, drinking local wine and eating tapas

    Day 6 - Shorter but lovely day

    2022年9月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    "Just pick up your courage and walk away. Don't waste time. The longer one drags on, the amount of pain accumulates." -Dick Hirayama

    Day 6 - Logroño to Navarette 13.1 km - 7:30am start

    I woke up early as usual and just wanted to get out and get the heck going so todays walk would be over. I did t want to walk, but I couldn’t just sit there for a full day babying my foot. And I wasn’t up to another day of Fiesta. So, I was walking.

    As I sat there procrastinating, I read my messages and comments on social. I noticed I had a private message here. As I read this message, which was from an old colleague, I got all teary again. This is not someone that uses social media, on principle. And yet they took the time to not only read my posts, but to reach out - as they too have done the Camino. They told me it is tough. It breaks you and it makes you. And they sent me the Pilgrim’s Prayer (I will do a post just for this). I was so touched, as I needed to read this today. I put my pack on with a lighter heart and headed out.

    As I hit the streets, the clean up from last night was in full swing. Street cleaning, “power washing” with fire hoses etc. wasn’t that a party?? Getting it all nice and clean for todays celebration! So many people were still wandering around, a lot of them drunk as they hadn’t gone to bed yet if their eyes were any judge.

    I got out of the central area and spied a van across the street, by the hotel there. Jacotrans!! Now I know this won’t mean anything to you unless you’ve walked the Camino, but what a sight for sore eyes (and ankle!). This company (amongst others) are a baggage transportation company. They pick up your bag at your current Albergue and deliver it to your next one, for 5€ per trip. I had never used them but decided today was the day for another “first”. Although I caught them a bit off guard before they started pickups, they graciously allowed me to send my pack. The Camino provides! I quickly grabbed my day pack, water and first aid kit and damn near skipped up the street!!

    The walk was lovely. Mostly flat, despite the last few hills into town. I walked with a variety of people at a variety of speeds. Took me 4 hours to cover the 13+ km and I couldn’t have cared less. It’s not a race.

    Along the way, I met a Camino legend -Marcelino Lobato Castillo. I finally got my pilgrim shell and will attach it to my pack tomorrow. I also met a minstrel - for lack of a better word. He was walking towards us, playing a mandolin and singing. It just put a huge smile on my face!

    I got to town and called the physiotherapist back that I had tried to call yesterday. Very long story short, I finally found where I was being directed to and it was an Albergue not a physiotherapist. Lovely. An extra 2+ km up and down damned hills, for nothing. The Spanglish wasn’t working in my favour today lol!!

    Spent the rest of the day hanging out in bars (always wanted to be a barfly!) chatting with other pilgrims and eating amazing tapas!! Not sure this will be a weight loss journey 😂    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in the morning light
    Such beautiful architecture!View of Navarette from the lookout point. Photo compliments of Nancy as I didnt make it up there

    Day 7 Part 1 - Days like this….

    2022年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    “If you are in a bad mood, go for a walk. If you are still in a bad mood, go for another walk."
    -Hippocrates

    Day 7 - Navarette to Santo Domingo de la Caldaza - by bus

    ** Disclaimer - part 1 is about my weird morning and about growing up. If you want to hear about where I am, skip this and head to Part 2” :-)

    Today is a weird day. Not a rest day per such but all the same, an enforced one. I caught the bus again today to try and see a physiotherapist. Was originally going to take the 1:15 bus but as I was awake at 4 and again at 6 due to people leaving the room, I quickly packed and tried to get the 7am bus. I was in time. Bus never came. Realized at 7:20 that I was on the wrong side of the damn road and I had missed it! So, 1:15 it was and in the meantime, I had 6 hours to kill. I was in shorts and a tshirt and found out after leaving the Albergue that it was 8c. I hid out in a cafe for over an hour that was thankfully open, then hit up the quiet and warmth of the beautiful church for a half hour. Made my way next to another cafe where Nancy, Danve and Louie met up with me, just after 10. They are having a well earned rest day in Navarette and had wanted to see me before I hopped on a bus. We hung out there until almost 1, and I was so grateful for their company and companionship. It was hard to say goodbye to these wonderful people, and they will always be part of my transient Camino family. It’s incredible how close you can get to -basically - total strangers, in a matter of a few days.

    I did catch the 1:15 (stood on the correct side this time!!) and made it to Santo Domingo de la Calzada only to find the physio is closed until 25th!! Seriously? I am just going to have to keep on walking and hope for the best. Next place for physio is Burgos, according to the receptionist here. 😭. Think that is 5 days walk. As it is due to rain for a few days, I see more buses in my future. I don’t mind walking in the rain, but up and down hills is a different kettle of fish than what I used to. In the meantime I will google Dr my symptoms and what Dave told me may be the issue (he is a geriatric physiotherapist), and try and find some stretches and hope that works.

    Not sure what the Camino is trying to teach me, but I hope I figure it out quickly!

    Honestly, I likely don’t even need to see someone. I am sure it is something that a few simple stretches will help with. I have wanted to “be sure”, just so I don’t do any real damage. But, chances are it is just something simple and stupid.

    So - I need to put on my big girl parties and stop copping out on the hills and hard parts. Suck it up and deal.

    Maybe that is what the Camino is trying to teach me - stop being a pussy. When the going gets tough, the tough get going. And the weak give up. I don’t want to be weak. Therefore, tomorrow I walk again. I will eventually get to Burgos and take a rest day there so I can see someone. And I will make the appointment in advance if I can, so I don’t get in to this situation again.

    I will still have to bus a bit throughout this journey as I am much slower than anticipated and won’t have time to complete without bussing. C’est La vie.

    Will do a “Part 2” for today about this town, just in case you are already bored to tears.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    The tower. Tallest in the whole Roja region and not attached to the cathedral so base doesn't erode
    Cool signs and statuesThe Baptism of Christ. Mosaiced portion of the cryptUpper portion of the tomb of Santo Domingo de la CalzadaUpper portion of the coop where a live rooster and chicken are always keptThe detail on these stone columns was incredible2Main alterpiece constructed in the 16th centuryStatue of S. domingo de la Calzada - polychrome wood 14th centuryChrist on a cross!Looking out to the city walls from the defenses at top of cathedralThe tower and part of tile roof of the CathedralDinner! Yummy but just too much fried stuff. Over it3Tuffles and pasty!

    Day 7 Pt 2 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    2022年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    “To arrive is to have journeyed” - Diane Wheatley :-)

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a lovely old walled city. The city was named after its founder, Dominic de la Calzada, who built a bridge, hospital, and hotel here for pilgrims on the French Way the most popular path of the Way of St. James. He began construction of the town's Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada (which is dedicated to him) and is buried in a tomb within an ornately mosaiced crypt.

    The old town is beautiful. Lots of small streets and wonderful shops all enclosed within the ancient city walls. The city of course has spread outside these walls as well, but I didn’t venture that far.

    I took a tour of the stunning cathedral. Unbelievable the panels, detailed stonework, silver and gold decor and of course the live rooster and chicken. Yup. A live rooster and chicken are caged within the cathedral and are changed out every two weeks for new ones. This has been a tradition for centuries.

    Into the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is the Gothic chicken coop of polychrome stone, built in the mid-fifteenth century and which houses a living rooster and a hen in commemoration of the miracle of the hanged pilgrim, one of the most widespread Jacobean legends throughout the Middle Ages.

    “Tradition recalls how a German couple on the pilgrimage to Santiago with their son. On reaching Santo Domingo they stayed at an inn. The innkeeper’s daughter fell in love with the young man but the feeling was not reciprocated and in revenge she hid a tin jug among the Germans luggage. On the pilgrims departure from the centre the girl reported the robbery, leading to the capture of the boy, who was accused of theft and sentenced to hanging. His parents continued their pilgrimage and, on their return stopped to see the body of their son, to discover, surprisingly that he was still hanging but alive. Popular memory claims that the young man told them that it had been Santo Domingo who had helped him to stay alive while others claimed that it was the prayers of the parents for a saint to keep him alive by holding him from below. In any case the parents immediately went to the mayor to tell him about the miracle, he was sceptical and assured them that their son was as alive as the roasted rooster and hen he was about to eat. Immediately the feathers of birds returned and they came to life, confirming the prodigy and that gave rise to the famous saying: “Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the chicken sang after being roasted.”

    So there you have it - another part of my weird day hahaha.

    After ages in the cathedral, I stopped by a sweet shop to try a local specialty Trufo La Vino Roja - red wine truffles. OMG. Amazing! I also tried a Rosè one as well and some kind of crispy lemon pastry. Just to be rounded of course!

    Dinner was spent on at a terrace bar again where I tried the calamari and patates brava (fries with hot sauce and in this case, mayo too). All very good but man, the fried food is killing me, so hopefully this is the last of it for a while.

    The plan is to walk tomorrow since I couldn’t find physio and hope for the best. I at least have a bed for tomorrow, so that’s new. I have been winging it as I hoped to do, but the towns are small and therefore spaces are limited. Figured I had better err on the side of caution for a change.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Departing Santo Domingo de la Calzada
    Sunrise at Cruz de los ValientesFirst stop, Grañōn - Barbackana'sScenes of Grañōn2Redecilla del Camino3Happy day on the Camino2The geriatric ward at Municipal Albergue El CorroBeautiful BeloradoChurch at the base if rhe old caatle1Lemon chickenHomemade cheesecake

    Day 8 - A day of gratitude

    2022年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    “ A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” – Tim Cahill

    Day 8 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado - 23 km, 8.5hrs - over 36,000 steps!

    Today was a very good day. A day of gratitude, really.

    I started at 7:07 am in the pre-dawn light from Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As I crossed the bridge out of the city, I came upon another solo Perigrina, Linda from Colorado. We got to chatting and our paces were very well matched. We mutually decided to walk a ways together as sometimes it is nice to have company.

    Our first stop was the lovely little town of Grañōn. Here there was a refreshment stand and tables and chairs in a lovely copse of trees. They had instrumental music playing in the background and when we sat down, Hallelujah started playing. It just felt right to be there in that moment. We grabbed a drink and just sat enjoying the surroundings. We decided to keep on walking together and made our way to the next town, Redecillia del Camino. A short 15 mins stop for water and to look at our maps, and we were off again. I had a bed at Viliria de Rioja waiting for me, that I had booked the night before. When we got there, we both decided we would push on to Belorado together as it was the perfect walking day - cloudy, overcast and cool. Of course after the decision was made, it got warmer and warmer and the sun was trying its darndest to shine.

    We made Villamayor del Rio and had yet another stop for refreshment. We were very hot and needed that break. The little Tienda (shop) here was awesome. They are a family from Panama and the owner is a baker. He made the absolute best ham and cheese croissant! I paired this with a sweet nectarine and bottle of water. Just want I needed for the last 6km to Belorado.

    Linda and I made Belorado at 3:40 pm - 23km, 3 rest stops and 8.5 hrs after we had left Santo Domingo de la Calzada. May have taken a while and we had sore feet / ankles. But boy, were we proud of ourselves!!

    We are staying at the Municipal Albergue El Corro. Up on the second floor of course. There are 10 of us in here 7 men and 3 women. Not one of us under 50 or 55 I would guess. I dubbed it the geriatric ward LOL!

    Linda and I went for a fabulous pilgrims meal - the best I have had so far. For €14, I had a tea before with meal, minestrone soup, lemon chicken and cheesecake. All homemade, all beautifully presented. Oh - and bread and wine - of course.

    I mentioned this was a day of gratitude. I have been thinking all day about so many things I am grateful for - today and on the Camino in general. So, here are some of them:
    • My silk sleep sack. Cost a bit but I love it! Feels like a bit of luxury but keeps me warm and so far, bug free
    • My walking poles that I purchased on arrival - I wouldn’t be able to do all these undulating hills - up or down - without them.
    • My awesome shoes - they are so far keeping my feet and toes happy. Quite the feat (pardon the pun) as my toes are not usually happy toes
    • The Buen Camino and Camino Ninja apps, and my Michelin Guide and condensed Brierleys guide - these all make it easier to plan my days.
    • My times to chat on What’s Ap with family and friends - love touching base!
    • My new Camino friends and family: Sabrina and Paula (who is likely heading off this Camino to do the Portuguese route instead); Nancy, Dave and Louie whom I miss already and how Linda.

    A day of gratitude and success fills my heart. Such a nice way to go to sleep.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    More street art in Belorado
    21Linda and i about 2km away from our destination. Couldn't come too soon!4View from the albergue window2So this is what Santa does in his down months....Camino Santa

    Day 9 - Misty Misery

    2022年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    “Some people walk in the rain; others just get wet.” – Roger Miller

    Day 9 - Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca - 12.1km

    Neither Linda nor I actually wanted to walk today. We felt very righteous giving it a go when seeing all the people heading to the bus stop to take the bus to Burgos. Apparently, there are no rooms today at the next town from here - San Juan de Ortega, so they are heading to Burgos instead.

    Cloudy and overcast day with the promise of rain. We headed out just after 8 am to a cool morning. Normally I love to walk on a cool, crisp day. But, add the overcast sky and intermittent drizzle, and I was wishing I was on the damned bus too.

    Halfway to our destination for the day, we stopped in the small town of Villambistia for a drink and breakfast. We dawdled as we were still feeling tired and disinclined to continue. At the same time, we wanted to just get the days walk over with. As we sat there watching the drizzle, the wind picked up and the rain started pelting down. Hhhhmmm this place was also an Albergue…. It did cross both of our minds to just grab a room and stay put having a quiet reading day. But as it happens so often, the wind died down and the rain let up. So, we geared up and started putting one foot in front of the other again.

    We eventually reached our destination of Villafranca Montes de Oca. Appears to be a lovely little town too, with a quite impressive hotel / pilgrim’s Albergue. We of course checked into the Albergue side. Something finally to be grateful for: both were given lower bunks!!!

    It is cold out today too, to add to the misery. In the Albergue, I have not been able to get warm - I have been here 3hrs and still freezing (even after a hot shower!).

    Tomorrow is a bus day to Burgos where I will stay for 3 nights - if I can find a bed that doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg! Have an email appointment request in to a physiotherapist and will follow up with a phone call or personal visit, on Monday morning! I think I may also use the time in Burgos to look for some warmer clothes and a jacket. I can also take the opportunity to send a small package of things I won’t use now, ahead to Santiago to be held until I get there.

    Dinner was a prepackaged pasta meal and vegetable soup, with some chorizo slices. Couldn’t be bothered to pay 18€ for the pilgrim meal!

    Early to bed tonight!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    1Sunrise over Villafranca Mintes de Oca
    Camino tourism. Tour buses go town to town to walk and get stamps in their compostelas. Not pilgrims1Coming up to the city gate of BurgosStunning city gate!2Burgos Cathedral2Family What's Ap chat :-) Felt a bit like Hollywood Squares :-)Entrabce to the CathedralNo wonder the Catholic Church was so powerful. The riches are endless1Not THAT'S a door!!11Ceiling pieces were incredibleThe carved walls here were beyond belief1Inner courtyardMy splurge dinner. Sui mai and udon wok meal. Mmmmmm

    Day 10 - The choices we make

    2022年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    “Be miserable. Or motivate yourself. Whatever has to be done, it's always your choice.” – Wayne Dyer

    Day 10 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos by bus (40km)

    I chose to be miserable today, I think.
    I chose to take the bus to Burgos rather than stretch my limits to walk up the mountain.
    I chose to not walk down the other side of that mountain due to the terrain and the chance of hurting myself.
    I chose to wimp out.
    I chose to wait 5 hours for a bus that cost me just under 3€ rather than pay 55€ for a taxi.
    Therefore, I chose a day of introspection and misery to a day of “doing” and living life to the fullest.

    I am really suffering from thoughts of my own expectations and my failure to make the most of this experience. I am making my own choices in how this journey unfolds, but finding it hard to live with and accept those choices as they are not what I had planned. I feel I am wasting precious time - waiting for buses, not starting early enough, being lazy when arriving at my daily destination rather than discovering the area, and generally letting days slip by. I want to do more. I want to BE more. I just don’t know how to get the mojo going to do that. I don’t say this for sympathy, encouragement or pity. I promised an open and honest account of my Camino, and this is it. Simple as that. It’s tough! Physically and emotionally. But that’s the point right? Maybe part of what I am learning here is to let go of those unreasonable expectations of myself. Both on and off Camino.

    Despite these negative feelings, there ARE positives too! I am overweight and underfit BUT, I have walked a total of over 125 kms in the 7 days I have walked. All bar 1 days also carrying an extra 8+ kg on my back. That’s an accomplishment. I do think of this too and am pretty damn proud of myself. I am not doing this Camino the way I anticipated, but I’m still here. I have considered hopping a flight to somewhere warm. Somewhere with a beach and sand, sun loungers and cocktails. But no. I am still here and will keep plodding along for a bit more.

    I finally got to Burgos in the afternoon and went straight to my hostel to dump my backpack. I have reserved a bed for two nights in this bustling city. Will show up on the physio’s doorstep tomorrow and hope for the best. With any luck, I will be on my way out of the city by Tuesday morning. While here though, I will get a taste for the city if I can. Today I had a great video chat with the whole family, which lifted my spirits! I showed them the exterior of and then I visited the stunning Burgos Cathedral. I have never seen a cathedral like this. It is SO extra hahaha. The altarpieces, carved walls, gothic architecture and tapestries are beyond over the top. It was truly incredible.

    Tomorrow I would like to walk up to the Castillo de Burgos and look out over the city - after I go to the physio’s office. Walk in the grand plaza and along the river. Take time to sightsee and be a visitor. Take time to re-jig my plan with more reasonable and attainable expectations. And buy some warmer clothes for heavens sake!! Where did that lovely warm sun go? Autumn has come to Spain almost overnight and I am still on summer time!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    One of the many pedestrianized areas
    Well, hello!Pilgrim topiary statue outside the museum of evolution1The ultimate take away pizza - 3 minutes from a vending machine!1Cathederal tear view4Castello Burgos1View from the castello311Pilgrim statues all over the placeMore of the stunning cathedralJust chillin'1Main plaza2Love this famacia!1Chapel where pilgrim mass was held

    Day 11 - Things to do and people to see

    2022年9月26日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    “There are times in life when, instead of complaining, you do something about your complaints.” - Rita Dove

    Day 11 - Burgos - approx 12km around the city

    Fairly successful day, in other ways than walking:
    • I was able to make a physio appointment for tomorrow at 10am, so happy to stay for that.
    • I got some warmer clothing including a jacket, which will be much needed in the days and weeks to come.
    • Had tapas and wine with a lovely lady named Monica that I have met before
    • Went up to the Castello Burgos - the highest point of the city and a great outlook point
    • Sorted out my next stages and have beds for the next 3 nights (I hate having to book ahead!)
    • Attended Pilgrim Mass at the Burgos Cathedral
    • Caught up with other pilgrims that are in the city, that I have seen throughout my journey so far

    This was a great rest day - if you can call still walking 12km a rest day. It was a cool but sunny day and a great day for exploring the city centre. I love the wide plazas and pedestrianized areas. We really should have more of these in Canada. The buildings are all so old and generally in this area of the city, well kept. Unlike the villages I pass through, there are very few abandoned looking buildings. Again, in this area at least, as I have not ventured very far.

    The old Castello was interesting. The rampart walls are still standing and look like quite a feat of engineering. First layer is 2.3m thick!! I loved the overview of the city from up there!

    This evening was a mass and pilgrim blessing at the cathedral. I am not catholic and did not understand a word other than Pilgrim and Buen Camino, but it was a beautiful chapel and service. As a pilgrim, I feel this has to be experienced at least once. I know I will also attend the pilgrim mass in Santiago, if and when I make it there.

    Although no steps were taken on my Camino today, I F eel like I have gotten a lot accomplished and I am ready for tomorrow. After my appointment, the plan is to have a short walking day - 12km or so, just so I get back into the swing of things.

    Here’s hoping tomorrow is a great day!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Leaving Burgos by the river routeStatue if Santo Domingo de la Calzada - "founder" of the Camino de Santiago5Left the city at noon after physio, so its a hot walk this afternoonHome in Tardajos, on my routeWelocme pilgrim, to Rabé de las Calzadas1Old Camino boots never die... they just get repurposed!Scenes of Rabé de las CalzadesWall in bar dedicated to pilgrim notes and the further panel to money from pilgrims around the world1

    Day 12 - One foot in front of the other

    2022年9月27日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    "Stay strong as you live your life story and remember your blessings, no matter what circumstances you face." - Dr. Damary M. Bonilla-Rodriguez

    Day 12 - Burgos to Rabé de las Calzadas - 12.8 km

    Finally! I was able to have physio this morning and play stump the Physiotherapist. First you need to understand that I have weird feet. I have huge big toes and osteoarthritis in the joints of them. My toes do not bend back like most people’s toes do, and I have had tow issues when I walk, for most of my life. When I arrived, “Carlos” watched me walk and right away could see that I was pronating and quite badly on my right side. We went over what I was experiencing and he watched me walk again, but barefoot. I explained about my shoes and why I chose them (zero heel drop = no toe issues for me!!) and he seemed impressed that I not only recognized that but that it is working well for me - for toe issues. What isn’t working is how badly I am pronating. After pushing and prodding, pulling and twisting, he thinks I have a compression issue resulting in soft tissue damage and some ligament irritation. He worked the foot for quite a while and then had me walk again. He is shocked that I have learned to walk without using my toes at all. Uummm ok. I didn’t know I did that but yay me?! He gave me a soft silicone thing that has a raised egg shaped portion to it. I wear this on my foot to help with the probation and hopefully help with the compression issue. I am to try this for 3 days and call back to let him know if it has had any positive effect. Day 1 - pain seems to have moved more to where he shows me the ligament is… not sure it is helping but will stay open minded until the end of day 3. I told him if my plan to do 3 short days and he said that was the best way - and to send my pack ahead so I did not put unnecessary stress on my feet /joints. All well and good, but I didn’t do it today (has to be booked the night before), but I have booked for tomorrow.

    Today is another gratitude day:
    • Had the long sought after physio appointment
    • Walked about 13 km to this lovely little village
    • Had a hot shower!! (bliss when there is hot water!)
    • Enjoyed a glass of wine and tapas (chorizo sausage and a hard boiled egg) at a bar and sat chatting with 3 Americans for over an hour
    • Clothes getting an actual laundry wash and dry - being done for me, not by me
    • Homemade food and the chance to connect with fellow pilgrims
    • Not only got a bottom bunk, but having a room of 8 to myself!!

    I love just wandering when I get to places like this. Just discovering the town I am in, relaxing and just “being”. This town is super pretty and very well cared for. Lots of flowers in window baskets, old stone buildings and a great little bar!

    Great pilgrims dinner of homemade saffron soup with noodles, mixed salad, tortilla (Spanish potato pie almost) and yogurt for dessert. At the table we had a couple from Munich, German who walked out their front door on 8 June - and are still walking, a man from Florida who is on his 7th Camino (various routes - this one twice), a man from Indiana who sounds just like my Uncle Len, a lady from Illinois that had biked a portion of the Camino but is now walking, a lady from Ste Clair, Quebec and another from Toronto, currently living in Montreal.

    Onward tomorrow, to a small eco Albergue in the middle of nowhere. Should be interesting.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    1Departing Rabé de las Calzadas
    1Beautiful murals all the way out of townWelcome to the Meseta!3My own Cruz de Ferro ❤️2Laying my burden to rest here It is time to move on.1Almond trees = free snacks!2PeaceAlbergue Fuente Sidres1Shell wall that tinkles in the wind1Late lunch!2Dinner!3Seriously stunning sunset to end our day.Last if the laundry

    Day 13 - The Meseta

    2022年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    "I slow down when hiking. The rhythm of nature is more leisurely. The sun comes up, it moves across the sky, and you begin to synchronize to that rhythm." - John Mackey.

    Day 13 - Rabé de las Calzadas to Castellanos de Castro - 16.8 km

    I left today just as the sun was ready to peak over the horizon - 8:03 am. The sky was tinged with yellows, oranges and pinks and it was just beautiful - as most mornings here have been. I had been able to get a hot cup of tea before leaving which was a good thing as it was very cool and windy out.

    I soon caught up to an American couple (there are SO many Americans on the trail!!) and walked with them for an enjoyable 8km. It really does help to pass the time, when you have others to chat to. After a brief stop for some snacks and the “bano”, we were on the way again. Other trail friends of theirs were now walking with us, and I was struggling to keep up. After 10 mins or so, I bid them a Buen Camino and said I was going to have to step back as I could not keep their pace and breathe at the same time! I walked the remaining 7 km in solitary, taking in the beauty of the area.

    The Meseta is the area of north central Spain known for its wide open landscapes and big skies - kinda’ like Saskatchewan. A lot of people skip or avoid walking the Meseta as it is over 200km long (from just outside of Burgos, to Astorga). There are many long stretches with little shade and / or water. It is blistering hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. It’s also windy as all heck. Unfortunately to this point, someone forgot to tell the area it is supposed to be flat. Have I mentioned I hate hills? I do….but am getting stronger and more conditioned to them. Just In time for the Meseta hahaha.

    Twice today, the wind died down and I thought I’d gone deaf! The wind literally battered my ears for over 4 hours today. Must remember to wear a buff tomorrow! When I started this morning I had a t-shirt and fleece, gloves and a hat. All but the t-shirt came off within 30 mins. My arms then froze due to the wind. I got quite chilled at one point and almost put the fleece back on. But the sun was bright and the day was getting warmer so I didn’t bother.

    Due to my time constraints and the distances I am managing (so much less than planned!) I will be skipping a chunk, as mentioned previously. The issue with this is I miss an important Camino icon - Cruz de Ferro or, the iron cross. This is where people typically leave the burdens (of life) they have been carrying. You symbolically leave a stone (usually brought from home) to signify the release. Although I left my talisman at home, I did pick up a heart shaped stone on one of my first days walking. Today, I came across a St James cross along the way. I took a photo and kept on walking. Something made me turn back - uphill, so you know it was compelling! At the base were piles of rocks and stones. Most had been left by pilgrims. Some with names, some with messages, some photos etc. It was a mini Cruz de Ferro. I knew this was my chance. I dug that rock out of my bag and used my Burt’s Bees tinted lip moisturizer to outline the heart and colour the stone a shade of red. I placed the stone down gently while saying aloud what it meant to me and what burden I was leaving in this beautiful place of rolling hills and wheat fields. I wept and wept. Two pilgrims walked by offering Buen Caminos and it was all I could do to choke out a reply, while trying to hide my tears. I can’t say I walked away totally unburdened. But, my heart was a little lighter and my head a little clearer.

    I walked in to my Albergue just before Castellanos de Castro. What a welcome oasis!!! I arrived to relaxation music playing and sat down for a glass of wine. A perfect welcome after the emotionally draining morning! I finally got myself checked in and sat planning my route for the next few days, and enjoying the chill vibe. This is a new (1yr old) Albergue and the owner does all her own cooking and baking. The pilgrim meal was a seafood macaroni (don’t knock it til you have tried it!), salmon fillet and salad with orange mousse for dessert. Incredible!! As we finished our meal, we were also treated to an amazing sunset!!

    So very grateful for this day and this fabulous Albergue.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Templar cross on my way this morning
    1First glimpse of HontanasIglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Inmaculada Concepcion26Interesting garden artRuins of the Convento San Anton - stunning!2Romano from New Mexico singing for us at the ruins12Castrojeriz in the distance1Lunch!1Church of Nuestra Señora del Manzano, CastrojerizAs always, the carvings here are beyond amazing!1Castle ruins on the hillInteractive experience about the Camino at the Iglesia de Santo Domingo11Castrojeriz2Bibimap dinner

    Day 14 - Short day on the Meseta

    2022年9月29日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt." - John Muir.

    Day 14 - Castellanos de Castro to Castrojerez - 11km

    After being awoken before 6 am by some rude pilgrims, I ended up leaving in the dark at 7:30 am. First time I have had to use my headlamp to help ensure I don’t injure myself.

    Made the first couple of km as the sun was starting to rise, and stopped in the lovely town of Hontanas. You almost don’t realize it’s there until you are upon it, as it is hidden in a valley. I had a long stop here having tea and chatting with other pilgrims I have met previously (the ones from Munich). I then spent some time in the lovely and real Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Inmaculada Concepcion. This church was worth the short stop. Completely “real” and not full of gilt and ostentation. The warden let me in as it was still before 9am. She had these 8” long skeleton keys to open the doors. Super cool!

    I finally started back on way. As today was a short day, there was no rush. Tomorrow will be a different story - 20km planned. The way was uphill a bit to start and then fairly flat while walking in the fields. I eventually met up with a road that took me first to the ruins of the Convento de San Antón. The ruins themselves were beautiful. But, we encountered a bit of Camino magic here. A man from New Mexico (I think he name was Romano) was singing in the ruins. It was such a privilege to be there for that moment and made the stop all the more special.

    Onward along the road to Castrojerez with a smile on my face. Again, along the road for approx 3 km more. I got to town just after 11:15 and beat my pack here by at least 15 mins. I felt silly sending it such a short distance, but it is what it is! For what it’s worth, I think my ankle is appreciating not having the extra weight! By arriving early, I also missed the rain that came to the plains of Spain this afternoon. Yippee!

    Staying the night at Alb. Orien - an Albergue run by a Spanish man and his Korean partner. My short day was specifically so I could stay here as I know they serve Korean food for dinner. Needless to say, there are also a lot of Korean pilgrims here today. Dinner did not disappoint. Bibimap - a rice dish with mixed veg and ground beef. It was fabulous!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Oh hell no! Not looking forward to climbing this puppy
    1I wept when i saw this sign!4Made it!Sabrina, Frank and I11And the downhill. It was much worse than it looks!Ponte Fitero6Reflections!2Late breakfast - bocadilla and tea.The long and dusty road4Tonights albergue!!1Pilgrim dinner with new and "old" friends

    Day 15 - Challenges of all kinds

    2022年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    “It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you, but no one can walk it for you.” – Rumi

    Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Boadillia del Camino - 21 km

    Woken up this morning by a couple of women departing at 4:15 and 4:45 am. They basically woke up the room, so others started trickling out after them. The last 4 of us finally turned the lights on just after 6am. Aaaarrgggg…. Shoot me! If you can’t beat em’, join em’ I guess.

    I was ready to roll and started walking at 6:45 am in the pitch black. All was good as there are lights in town. Shame I was at the wrong end of town for departure. By the time I left the town, I was following two other pilgrims. We were all as stupid as each other and ended up on the wrong track. Ended up walking 3/4 km out of our way (and then back). By the time we found the right way, the sky was lightening. Good thing because my headlamp is crap!! Can hardly see the ground, and it won’t turn off when it is cold out. Which is every morning. I had to take the batteries out yesterday but didn’t have time today. So now it is dead and I will give it an unceremonious burial next time I see a bin!! So much for leaving in the dark….

    Less than 2km out of town (3.5km for me!!), was a bloody imposing mountain / large hill to climb. Have I mentioned I hate hills 😂. I literally cried at the thought of hauling myself over this thing, but up I went. I stopped. Quite a few times. And cried. And gasped for air. And cried. And I bloody made it! I had two people stop to ask if I was ok. One, a man of approx 75 years old even asked if he could carry my day pack for me. I declined but that was really sweet. When I arrived at the top, another man (Frank from The Netherlands) was just behind me. He recognized me from one of my crying days. He had seen me and been chatting with me at a “bar by the side of the road” when I couldn’t stop crying. Well that narrows it down - NOT hahaha!! He congratulated me on making it up the damned hill and took a photo of me. Something he said really touched me. He said he was so happy to see I was still on the Camino and that he had been talking to people about me (what he said and to whom, I have no idea). He then said I have been an inspiration to him. Me? Me! Wow….made my morning. Next came Sabrina, from my first day! So great to see her again! Once I gained my breath back (note: I AM recovering much more quickly!), I was able to continue. After 300ft, it was all downhill!! These things are going to break me!

    Kilometres of flat fields with no habitation around brought me to a small town with a supermercado that also served tea/coffee and food for passing pilgrims. I had my first bocadilla here (meat and cheese sandwich on French stick bread). Darned bread was so crusty it abraded the roof of my mouth! Needless to say, I just ate the meat and cheese!

    There was still an 8km slog to get me to Bocadillia del Camino. This too is a challenge - the long open stretches with just yourself for company. Still, I finally made it to the Albergue just after 1pm. Megan had called while I was enroute and I spent a lovely 20+ mins with company to chat to on my walk. I was hoping to speak to Laura too but it was a bit too early for her. We touched base a bit later, after I was settled in my Albergue. This albergue has all individual beds (no bunks) and I got first pick.

    I saw Frank again and he has to taxi to the next town as he has some bad swelling in his leg and needs a couple of rest days. I asked him why he said I was an inspiration and he told me because he was really impressed with my humanity and humility. How I had opened up to a complete stranger and allowed my vulnerability to show. He felt I was an example of how the Camino affects people and how my determination to continue had impressed him. I was a little
    awed.

    Rest of the day was spent in the bar just chatting with pilgrim friends I had
    met before. Met new people too and had a fabulous pilgrim dinner. This to me is the best part of the Camino. Meeting so many new people and forging connections - some that will definitely last long after the Camino is done.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    2Lovely pre-dawn walking!
    Remember what I said? Don't forget to look behinf you!!1Huge storks nest. They are all over the place hereLove all the ways even the smallest towns make pilgrims feel welcome1James and the goose (bugger bit me on the way out!)1Pilgrim life!First glimpse of Villalcázar de Sirga2James and I. We likely won't meet again as he may be finished in 3-4 days at SahágunTapas and wine late lunch21Myself, Jenny and Carolyn

    Day 16 - A long but “easy” day

    2022年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    “Tough times don’t last, but tough people do.” – Robert Schuller

    Day 16 - Boadilla del Camino to Villalcázar de Sigra - 20.3km

    Looking back on today, this was a great one!
    I didn’t have the best sleep, but it was ok. I actually got up for the first time on this journey, knowing I was walking and not worried about it. It’s hard to describe, but every single day, I have dreaded the walk. I just haven’t wanted to do it as it’s been more of a chore than a pleasure. I’m not yet at the pleasure point, but I wasn’t dreading it - and it was an 18.8km walk. As it turns out, we took a variant so we could walk by a river as opposed to the road, and it added over a km to the walk. Made for a much nicer walk though.

    When I went down to the bar for a tea, I was with a friend of a few days, James from Nee Jersey. We had our drinks and decided to walk together. He’s not an overly fast walker either and generally does shorter distances - which is why we have seen each other the last 3 days. Off we go at 8am. Me to Villalcázar de Sigra and James to Carrion de Los Condes -25km. He wasn’t looking forward to that, let me tell you!!

    There were no hills today. The way was basically flat and the first 5.7 km was mostly along a canal, so quite pretty. We decided to push on a couple of km as it was still early and we figured we would get a drink at the next stop, which we did. At this point, we took the variant and added over 1.5km to our journey. This was only ok because rather than walk beside a busy road, we got to go on a path between farm fields and then along a river. Much nicer. Stopped again at noon for another drink and a snack before pushing on ti the last 5km.

    In no time at all, we were at my destination. It really is so nice to walk and chat with someone. And raven better, we kept a good pace and did over 20km in about 4.5 hrs walking time. Pretty damned happy with that!

    We grabbed a drink here and parted ways. Jenny and Carolyn (from AUS) were here too and ended up staying at the same Albergue as I’m at since the couldn’t find the Municipal Albergue. I love these women! Sisters from Australia who are both retired nurses and in their late 60s. They are a blast! We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening together - just like last night. Only difference is there was no pilgrims dinner tonight. In fact, dinner was a bottle of wine shared by Carolyn and I, a potato chip mix and bag of mixed nuts (that will haunt me tomorrow!). We did manage a late lunch of wine and tapas first, but it wasn’t much. The only bar here was closing at 5, the only restaurant (Michelin Star no less) was fully booked out and our only option was the small grocery store. So, we made the best of it LOL. I’ve had worse meals….and worse company.

    Actually loved this day and I hope I have many more like them.

    Tomorrow is a short 6km day and I will be 2 nights in a private room with a bathtub. I can’t wait!! Hopefully meeting up with Nancy, Dave and Louie tomorrow will be so good to see them again!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Always look back!
    1Destination for the day1Love these little paintings on the stairs!2My private room! 28€ / nightA tub!! Heck yes I had a bubnle bath!12Lunch feastSome soet of procession through town3A drink or teo too many maybe!

    Day 17 - Chillin’ on the Camino

    2022年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    “All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” – J. R. R. Tolkien

    Day 16 - Villalcázar de Sigra to Carrión de Los Condes - 5.6km -1hr 5min

    Shortest day yet, but there are a couple of good excuses! I want a bath. A real bath. Not a shower in a shared bathroom, but a bath! Also, needed a short day to just chill and hang out. So, here we are!

    Walked with Carolyn this morning and she sets a tough pace. We made it to Carrión de Los Condes in just over an hour. Waited at a cafe for Jenny to arrive before we went to the Hostal. Thankfully, we were able to check in early and leave our bags in our rooms.

    Carolyn needed a new shirt (or 2!) so we headed back to a store that was open and specifically for travel/pilgrims. She got what she needed and we all went to lunch. I have some Lovely garlic shrimp and patates bravas. Mmmmmm!

    After lunch, I had a lovely long bath and a short nap - just what the Dr. ordered. Ok, there was no Dr., but it was well needed!!!

    Everything is closed on Sundays (with the exception if one or two places - literally). Thankfully one of the other open places was a grocery store. We grabbed some groceries so we can have eggs and bacon in the morning, and some soup for dinner since we had our main meal earlier.

    Got all our laundry done and spent the rest of the day planning the next week or two, distances, places to stay etc. It’s all part of the journey. And having at least a remote idea of where you want to end up is particularly important this year. I was hoping to wing it and just stop when I needed, and get a bed somewhere. That’s isn’t working as well this year because the Camino is SO busy. Beds are often all booked and I am also sending my pack now, most days. That needs a destination. Which in turn ties you to ensuring you get to a specific place each day - and have a booking there.

    We decided we had had enough of planning and would go across to the bar for a nightcap. 3 or 4 wines later, I am trying to write this blog while half cut. C’est La vie. It was a lovely day spent with wonderful new friends. Who can ask for anything more??    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Theme for the day!
    Jenny and Carolyn whipping up breakfast1Our solarium dining area.The table we have laid claim to for 2 days2Oh my!!! Simply delicious!Iglasia de San Andrés ApostolCan honestly say i jave never seen a "No sheep" sign before!1Closed door of the Real Monosterio de San ZoiloMosaic near the river1Beautiful dinner!2Mmmmmmm! I may have a thing for white asparagus now!Love the detail work on this entrywayOur "local" - Inéz - frim my window

    Day 18 - It’s all about the food!

    2022年10月3日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    “Food may be essential as fuel for the body, but good food is fuel for the soul” - Malcom Forbes

    Day 18 - Rest day in Carrión de Los Condes.

    Some days on the Camino it’s all about the walking, the planning, or the albergues. Some days it’s all about the people you meet, the scenery you pass or your aches and pains. And some days, its all about the food. Today, it was all about the food!!

    Meals on the Camino can be pretty same, same but different. You can of course choose what you eat and where, but a lot of pilgrims meals - either at the albergues or in bars as the Menu Del Dia (meal of the day) are very similar. Day in and day out. Soup, pasta or mixed salad to start (generally, lettuce, tomato, tinned corn, carrot and tuna - with some variations). Second plate is thin pork slices, chicken, sometimes fish, sometimes beef, sometimes a burger. Always bread - served with fries or rice, and yogurt or ice cream for dessert. This is typical. Sometimes you get an outstanding meal, and I have had a few. However, there is a distinct lack of fresh veggies. Rice, potatoes, breads and pastas are stars of the show. Although no longer Keto at the moment, I still don’t do a lot of carbs - not those kind, anyway. As this was a rest day and we had no plans, Carolyn, Jenny and I planned a bit of a feast day.

    We all slept in today, as we had nowhere to go and no one waking us up at 5am! Yesterday we shopped and got our breakfast items: fresh eggs, bacon, tomato and bread (for them). Carolyn did most of the cooking and cooked us up the best breakfast I have had in weeks. We ate in the lovely solarium style dining area of our Albergue with the windows open and the sun shining. It was delicious and we were all replete, with very happy tummies after the meal.

    We mooched around town for a bit in the late morning, but a lot of stores are still shut on Mondays. I needed a new headlamp and a wrist brace, as my carpel tunnel has decided to act up too. Likely due to using my poles all the time. Jenny needed some items at the farmacia and we all wanted to get the dinner groceries. Once the shopping was done, it was time to relax for a bit - it was a strenuous morning 😂.

    I went for a stroll to the momentary as it is supposed to be stunning. I should do a bit more research - it closes at 2 (duh - everything does and it was 2:30pm) but, close all day on Mondays. Oh well. I needed to get more steps in for the day and the 1.5km didn’t hurt me.

    Late afternoon Carolyn and I went to our “local” across the narrow road from our Albergue. We sat and chatted with our now favourite Vino Rosada and I even ate a couple of fresh local olives. I generally hate olives, but these weren’t that bad at all. Nancy, Dave and Louie had made town earlier and came to join us for a drink and chat. It’s so great to see them! Jenny finally came down to complete the table and we had a lovely time telling all our Camino tales.

    Eventually, Jenny excused herself and then Carolyn. As I was saying goodbye to Nancy and Dave, Jenny was calling me to “tea”. Up I went to find this incredible spread that Jenny had prepared. I felt bad that I had not been lending a hand, but it was a bit late for that. We had the most incredible salad plates full of fresh veggies, eggs, meats and fish. Simply amazing! Again, full and happy tummies were had by all.

    I was hoping to grab some gazpacho at a local shop, but never got there. Instead, I hit up an old fashioned hardware store that had a bit of everything. I was able to pick up two lightweight containers (so now I can carry a repeat and smaller version of tonight’s salad, for lunch tomorrow) and finally, a headlamp for a third of the cost of the pilgrim store just down the road from it!

    A totally lazy day, which was much needed by all of us. Great company, great food and great wine. All in all, a successful day!! Only problem is, as I have been lazy today, I just know I won’t be wanting to head out into the cold morning tomorrow at 7am for a 23 km walk to our next destination. The only thing saving that walk is that I will be walking with Dave and Nancy - and maybe Louie if he doesn’t run ahead. Wish us luck!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    1Always look back!
    1Food truck at 7kmFood truck even had a covered eating area.Fresh sqeezed irange juice. So good!2Breakfadt with Nancy, Dave and LouieThe never-ending roadComing in to Calzadilla de la CuezaOur Albergue - La Morena, Ledigos3Awesome beds!11st blister. Im a real pilgrim now!2Table decor4The salad....about 5 pieces if lettuce and 3 olives LOL!

    Day 19 - Feelin’ hot, hot, hot

    2022年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    “An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” – Henry David Thoreau

    Day 19 - Carrión de Los Condes to Ledigos - 23.4 km - approx 6.5 hrs

    So excited to be walking with Nancy and family again today. We all have pretty much the same pace - except Louie who often runs ahead. Yes, runs. Guess that’s a bit easier when you are 16, rather than 57!

    From Carrión de Los Condes, it was a 17.3 km trek to Calzadilla de la Cueza and then a further 6.1 km to our destination in Ledigos. As the day was going to get hot we left in the dark at 7am to get a jump on the day.

    After we were out of the town, I was able to put my new headlamp to good use, for another hour or so. The trail was easy walking and the company made the kms go quickly. We stopped for 10 mins at a little lay-by that was created for pilgrims, and sat first with Carolyn who was in front of us, and then Jenny, who had been behind us. As we were ready to leave, along comes Linda! It was good to see her as I have not seen her for over a week. As we started off again, we came to a food truck about 5 minutes further on, at the 7km mark. It was now light but still chilly and we stopped for breakfast and a hot drink. Linda joined us for a while, but started off before us, on the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza. We passed her shortly after leaving and I haven’t seen her since. I’ve actually been a bit worried about her and hope she’s doing ok.

    Still another 10km to go, on the never-ending road. Seriously, the view did not change one iota until just before Calzadilla de Los Cueza, when there was a slight rise, then the town was laid out before us. Carolyn, Jenny and Linda were all staying in town but we were still continuing to Ledigos. We stopped for at least an hour at the local bar in Calzadilla, for cold drinks. Much needed as the heat was getting really intense in the last 3km and we were all parched. While there, I ran Into Bill and Rip from day 2. I had also seen them in town last night as they were scoping out food options.

    It was a true struggle to get moving again as it was now around 1:30 pm and the heat was still intense. The thought of another 6+ km was not appealing in the least. But, we got our packs on and hit the road. Zig zagging through town as we followed the arrows. Pretty sure they just wanted to take up past every bar in town… as they do.

    The trail to Ledigos was not as nice as the previous 17+km. Lots of stones and potential ankle twist opportunities, but we managed it. Nancy started having some issues and had a couple of stops to add some wool cushioning. I was getting a bit of heel burn but it was easy enough to walk through. Ankle was doing ok, so we pushed ahead. My walking companions were great company today. If not for them, I likely would have taxied those last 7 km lol! As it was, we made it to town just after 3pm and I am a little in love with the Albergue!! Great location, covered patio and awesome private beds in the dorm. Real sheets, chocolate on the bed and a bottle of water! Beds are lovely individual bunks with privacy screens. Hope it’s going to be a good night.

    Rest of the afternoon was spent chilling on the patio with a bottle of Rosada and the lovely company of Nancy,Dave and Louie, again! I remembered that heel burn I had experienced, and checked my foot. I have my first Camino blister!! I feel like a real pilgrim now LOL!

    The pilgrims dinner choices were not anything I was prepared to eat hahaha. Stewed vegetables or lentils with mushrooms as the starter. No thank you. And Beef stew or fried sardines for the main. Uuummmm, big no to both. Melon or rice pudding for dessert - sure as heck wasn’t having rice pudding either! Thankfully, I was able to get a carbonara pizza. Whew. Food bullet dodged!!! Until it arrived and it was covered in chopped mushrooms!! Oh Lord. I looked like a 3 year old, picking them all off!! I shared the pizza with Dave who got the short straw on his dinner serving. And just for the record, the lentil soup with mushrooms was fabulous (Nancy let me try hers).

    All in all, a great day. Lots of walking, but we covered it in really good time, so I am happy with that. Apparently, my pace was faster than what Nancy was used to - and here I was, thinking I was holding them back. I told Nancy she should lead tomorrow, and I will follow.    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    It's a long and dusty road
    Always look back! Nancy coming down the trail1Spanish ham, tomato and olive oil toast. To die for!Moritanos "bodegas" used in the past for food and wine storage. Wine culture dating back over 2000 y1211More bodegas along the trailShade!!!And there goes Carolyn...12Geographical centre of the French Camino de Santiago1Could seriously use a massage!2Got my certificate saying I crossed through the geographic centre of the French Camino de Santiago2The Last LunchCool murals all over the placeSahagún train station1Pilgrims before dawnCrossing rhe geographic half-way point of the French Camino de Santiago

    Day 20 - Losing my Camino family :-(

    2022年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    “You meet people who forget you. You forget people you meet. But sometimes you meet those people you can't forget. Those are your friends." - Mark Twain.

    Day 20 - Ledigos to Sahagún 16 km - approx 5 hrs walking
    Sahagún to Ponferrada by train

    Had a fairly decent sleep in my coffin-style bunk last night. Got a bit warm and the pillows were ridiculously fat, but otherwise a decent sleep.

    Nancy, Dave, Louie and I headed out just after 7am for our 16 km walk to Sahagún. Today’s walk was in decent terrain for the most part - a bit rocky and narrow in places but other areas were smooth and somewhat soft with grass or sandy soil underfoot. It’s actually nice to be out before the sun comes up, on these clear and crisp mornings. It also means we get a good 4 km under our belts before the sun starts shining and the temperature gradually creeps up.

    We were all having foot issues today. Yesterday was a long hard walk and we paid for it today! Dave walked the first 6.4 km in his water shoes as they were better for his ankles. Louie had an open blister on the ball of his foot to go along with his shin splints, Nancy has sore soles and ankles and I of course still struggle with my ankles (right is a lot better) and now have some plantar fasciitis and of course my new blister. Worse than that is the pain in the joints where the feet meet the legs. Man, that can ache like nobody’s business!! We had a rest stop in Moratinos for a quick breakfast and a hot drink. Lovely little restaurant/bar here! I kept expecting Carolyn to come striding by, but she didn’t. When we finally left, we still had almost 10 km to go and it was rough getting going again.

    We literally slogged it out and. the kms clicked slowly away. As we were nearing Sahagún, I turned to make way for some bike pilgrims and there’s Carolyn, striding toward us without a care in the world. Lovely to see her, but man are we slow compared to her! She’s about 10 years my senior, started 30 mins before us (at 6:30 am) and 7 km behind us. Come on!!! Talk about impressive (and kinda embarrassing for me hahaha). Just after this, we walked through the geographical half-way point of the French Camino de Santiago as stated in the Codex Calixtinus. It was still a couple of km to the city, but we finally arrived in Sahagún just after noon and made our way to Nancy and Dave’s hostal to get them checked in. Our bags had not yet been delivered, so we went for leisurely lunch and well earned beverages!

    I have been struggling with my Euro cash card for the last week. Can’t tap it, PIN won’t work, can’t use it in stores or machines. And to add insult to injury, the phone number for international assistance doesn’t work. I had a brainstorm today and called the Canadian toll free number from my Spanish SIM enabled phone. Bingo!!! It took almost 30 mins, but I got my darned PIN changed. None too soon either as I am down to 70€. Enough for a couple of days since my accommodations are paid for today and tomorrow. But, good to get it sorted out finally.

    We roamed around a bit before I had to go and collect my backpack from the Hostal where I had sent it, along with Nancy’s bag. Saw Jenny and Carolyn again as Jenny was coming into town. Carolyn already had them checked in as she was in town before us. Collected my backpack and before I knew it, it was time to let my companions have their showers and a nap, and for me to head to the train station for my 150 km + trip to Ponferrada. Necessary in order to make my timeline to Santiago - and I do want to get there and get my Compostela.

    Today’s the day I have been dreading for the last week. Leaving my Camino family. I’ve already said goodbye to so many people. Some have made bigger impacts than others. But these last ones are really hard. I haven’t seen Linda since on the trail yesterday. I’m worried about her and hope to hear from her. I’ve loved spending time with Jenny and Carolyn and getting to know each other. My train was late and so I got to say goodbye at the train station to both of them as they had come for a walk to find where the station was, and I was still sitting there waiting! I May still see them again towards the end of my journey - yet to be determined. And maybe a trip to AUS is in my future again…. And then there is the Barcenas family. It was so special to be a part of their journey and them, mine. I will really miss them as we are not likely to meet again on The Way. Maybe I also need to visit Washington state :-). It’s strange how you can know some people for such a short time and yet feel like you have known them for years. This is what it is like with all these people - they have all had a big impact on my journey, one way or another. And they will not soon be forgotten.

    Buen Camino, my friends!! Thank you for your companionship and befriending this solo traveller xxx    もっと詳しく

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  • Diane WheatleyCamino de Santiago 2022旅行者
    Ponferrada
    Morning musicCastillo de los Templarios3The castle of every little girls dreams!221Eddie from Aus/UK. She was singing a hauntingly beautiful melody in this amazingly acoustical room.2Volume up so you can hear Eddie!2Templar cross flag and vestments213The castle on the hill. This side was easily defensable11

    Day 21 - Solo days and knights

    2022年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    ”Sometimes you need to take a break from everyone and spend time alone, to experience, appreciate and love yourself.” – Robert Tew

    Day 21 - Ponferrada rest day - approx 13km walked, around the city!!

    So, this is me today - alone again on my Camino. And that’s ok! I miss my Camino family, but I don’t mind my own company.

    This morning I slept in a bit and took time to rearrange my pack and downsize a bit. I will leave some small bits in my hotel and have now sent others along to my final destination near Muxia. Just stuff I don’t want to wear anymore (talking to you, Lulu shorts!!), haven’t used or won’t use all of (like my extra contacts). Figure I cut close to a kilo - which will help since I have likely added a kilo since I have been here.

    After I got myself all sorted, I headed up to the Castillo de Los Templarios (Templar Castle). Had a lovely breakfast at the cafe outside the walls, while I waited for the castle to open at 10am. Bumped into Jane, an Aussie from Perth, that I met in Boadilla del Camino about a week ago. She had been laid up in Léon with COVID for 6 days and then went back to where she had left off. She too has had to skip ahead a bit, to make up for lost time.

    According to their website, the castle’a prehistoric origins relate it to a settlement during the first Iron Age. Its privileged situation turned it into a walled enclosure with different dependencies inside. A total of 8,000 square meters make up the historical remains of this impressive castle. It was absolutely fascinating and I took almost 1.5hrs there, and this was without viewing some of the exhibits. While I was there, I met an Aussie/Brit named Eddie. She was sitting in one of the chambers all by herself, when I entered. She was singing and it was hauntingly beautiful.

    After the castle, I needed to visit Decathlon across town and made a good choice to avoid the local McDonalds. I then headed to the post office (back the way I had come from at the other side of town) to mail my parcel. By siesta time, this may not have been a “walking day”, but I had managed to rack up over 15,500 steps already.

    I decided to go out again in the evening for a glass of wine (because why not sit at a bar and drink by myself 😂?). As I stepped out of the doorway of my hotel, I heard a “hey, hello!” I turned around to find two ladies from Gatineau that I shared a dorm with (and went to Decathon with) over a week and a half ago, in Burgos. They had wanted my assistance with their flights, but left Burgos before I could help them. So, was able to assist them tonight and they were so grateful. It’s so weird how the Camino works! I had jumped ahead over 150km and still bump into 3 people I know from previous towns. Just to be clear, this is not a 2 bar town. This is a city. A big city. Yet here I am, running into people I have met before. I love the Camino magic. Put a smile on my face for ages!!

    After they went their separate way, I just started wandering around the city. I love the pulse and vibe here. Found a cheapie store that I had fun mooching around in, reloaded my phone so I am good until mid Nov when I fly home from France, and sat people watching as I drank my wine. Headed back to my hotel for an early-ish night, happy I had decided to venture out.

    Tomorrow is only a 15 km day, but the next is almost 20km. So, best rest up while I have the opportunity to have a snore-free zone since I am in a private room!    もっと詳しく

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