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Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
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  • Dennis Classen

Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos

Dennis and Myj are taking a Rick Steve's 10 Days in Scotland tour, then staying on to go "over the sea to Skye." Come along on our wee adventures! Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 16, 2018
    Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos

    We're going to Scotland!

    January 14, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    We did it! We signed up online for the Rick Steves Best of Scotland in 10 Days Tour! "Why Scotland?" you may ask. Well, Dennis loves bagpipes and whisky, they speak English (although it may need translationfor us), so it seemed like a good way to begin Dennis's world travels. Myj visited Scotland in 1975 with her friend Cathleen Greiner on their college "backpack through Europe" trip and has always wanted to see more. We chose Rick Steves after researching a number of other tour companies as well as talking with friends who have done tours, traveled on their own, etc. After 40+ years as a professional driver, Dennis's idea of vacation is to drive as little as possible. We thought the combination of expert guides and planning, free time, relatively small groups and Rick's "through the back door" philosphy sounded right for us. We're ready to join the Rick Steves cult!

    In February, we combined a trip to SEA-TAC airport for Dennis's Global Entry interview with a trip to the Rick Steves Travel Center in Edmonds, WA. Edmonds is a charming town on the Puget Sound waterfront. It was a beautiful day, and we enjoyed walking from our hotel to the center and window shopping the quaint downtown area. We were able to have a trip consultation with Lisa Friend, who helped us decide what to do with the extra few days we will stay in Scotland after the tour ends. At the center, there are maps, guide books and lots of information for research and planning, and of course, you can shop for travel products!! That evening, we attended a free lecture about Scotland, presented by Lisa. We learned lots and are even more excited! After the lecture, we had an excellent dinner at Epulo Bistro in Edmonds.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos

    The 1 month countdown begins!

    July 18, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    After months of reading travel guides, making checklists, saving Pinterest posts and bookmarking websites, it's time to actually start packing. The Rick Steves tours advise just one carryon, as we will be handling our luggage ourselves on cobblestone streets and hotels that may not have elevators. So, I've laid out the clothes and "extras" with the intention of removing as much unnecessary "stuff" as possible.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Requisite PDX carpet photo.

    Here we go!

    August 16, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We're packed, double and triple -checked my lists, ready to go! Dennis looks a bit doubtful, Keeper is begging to go along.

    UPDATE 9:55pm EDT, JFK Airport: So far, so good. Flights on time, ready to board for the next leg. This airport (and most other airports) make me thankful for PDX. Next stop, Edinburgh! ...
    UPDATE 1:00am EDT, Still at JFK: Boarded, pulled away from gate, returned to gate for "quick fix" problem. Sat for over two hours on board, the fixes haven't worked yet.😐…
    UPDATE 2:30am EDT Still at JFK: Almost four hours delayed: new plane, we are on board again. We did meet two other couples who will be on our tour. 🤞    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Our charming taxi.
    1Ah, after almost 24 hours travel, a wee nap sounds good.View from our room.A bite in a pub on our way. I feel like I'm in the real Diagon Alley.

    Edinburgh at last!

    August 17, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Due to our four hour delayed arrival, there were no gates available at EDI, so we had to wait for stairs to be brought for deplaning, then wait for bus to take us to Customs. Because we weren't at the regular Customs entry, no electronic Global Entry, so a long line to get through. But, with the worst of the travel behind us 🤞, we had a wonderful taxi driver and arrived at our hotel. The Bonham is charming and quaint, and the bed was the best thing we'd seen after our journey. Time for a rest, a shower, then off to the Royal Military Tattoo.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    1

    Wow! Just Wow!

    August 17, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    We wound our way along the wynds and closes to Edinburgh Castle Esplanade, where the Royal Military Tattoo is performed nightly in August. What a spectacle! The Tattoo is not only a gathering of some of the world's best pipe bands, but includes military bands, singers from Malawi Girls School, mariachis and Aztec dancers from Mexico, Czech dancers, an amazing Swiss drumline drill team, a Colonial fife and drum corps, the US Air Force precision rifle team, and even horseback bagpipers from Oman. It is all accompanied by fireworks, light and laser effects. At the end, a lone piper stands highlighted against the dark sky on the battlements at the top of the castle. Goosebumps!Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Steps in a close in the old city.
    Isn't there an elevator?A bit earthy for my taste, think I'll skip this restaurant.Kenneth Grahame's house where he wrote Wind in the Willows.You have to love a country that has a unicorn as the national symbol!Parking in Edinburgh can be difficult during the Festivals.

    Scenes from Edinburgh

    August 18, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After missing a night's sleep yesterday, we slept in this morning, then took a walk to find lunch. We're quite good at getting lost; the curving streets that change names several times don't help. Despite their reputation for being "dour" the Scots are very friendly once you approach them. So when lost, we just ask someone, which often turns into a conversation.
    This evening, we met the rest of the members of our tour. There is a range of ages: more toward the "mature" end, but as young as a high school senior. They seem a fun bunch, and we're looking forward to getting to know them.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Edinburgh Castle
    The castle sits on a volcanic outcropping high above the city. It appears when from the rock itself.People lived stacked atop each other in Old Town, built on the hill below the castle.Traitors were executed here.Armament in the Great Hall.How many others have walked these cobblestones in over 500 years?Colorful Victoria Street.

    To the battlements!

    August 19, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Today, we conquered Edinburgh Castle, from the inside this time. Our local guide, Rita, had many fascinating stories, such as describing how the Scottish Crown Jewels were buried in a cellar under the tower to hide them from Hitler, should he invade. We walked the streets of the Old Town, where the buildings might have eight floors, with the poor people in the bottom, wealthy above, but all sharing the same entrance door.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The Ladies Loo in the Elephant House, covered with messages to Jo Rowling.
    The Victorian Clock in the Museum of ScotlandMargaret and MyraThe table by the center window is where Harry Potter was born (in book form).People leave sticks for Bobby to fetch.We found the grave that inspired Harry's last name.

    Bobby and Harry

    August 19, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Our walking tour with Rita ended at the National Museum of Scotland, where we meandered among the treasure trove of ancient and modern artifacts. We then joined up with fellow tour members Patrick and his daughter Margaret for lunch at the Elephant House. Potterites will recognize this as the cafe where JK Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book. Nearby is Greyfriars Kirk and cemetery, famous for the faithful terrier, Bobby. Many of the names in the Potter books came from the gravestones here. Margaret and Myj hunted diligently, but couldn't find Thomas Riddle. We did find Potter, however. Margaret, with her teenaged energy was ready to lead on, downhill, uphill and down again to find the Museum of Childhood (and a nearby fudge shop).

    Our day ended with happy hour in Teuchters pub, meeting up with a number of tour members for a dram. As we thought initially, they are all quite fun! We tried Cullin Skink (a fish chowder), which joins steak and ale pie and gooseberry crumble on the "yes, please" list. The drinks, food and company were welcome after recording over 8 miles on the Fitbit on a very "dreich" (grey and wet) day.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Gardens at the Culross palace.Culross is so cute it looks like a Disney set.In Culross"Palace" (really just a large house built by a coal baron) in CulrossCulross gardens.A golfer at St. AndrewsRuins of St. Andrew's Cathedral. Parts of the cathedral date to 1160.

    Charming Culross and St. Andrews

    August 20, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We left Edinburgh this morning via coach in the capable hands of our driver, Colin. Although there are only 26 of us, the coach has seats for 50, so we can spread out. A mention about traffic in Edinburgh, and the villages we've visited so far: because many of the roads in the city and villages predate cars, they are narrow and winding. Nevertheless, cars tool right along. Colin has done an amazing job navigating our large motorcoach in tight spaces. Dennis is quite impressed! Also, pedestrians do NOT have right-of-way, so crossing the road on foot can be a risky adventure!

    We crossed the Firth of Forth, with views of the three bridges, then on to our first stop in the tiny village of Culross. The "palace" there is an interesting example of a 17th century home (for the wealthy, at least). A number of scenes from the Outlander series were filmed here.

    Next was a stop in St. Andrews, famous as the home of golf. The Auld Course is beautiful, but we spent our time after lunch wandering the medieval streets up to the ruins of the thousand year old cathedral, once the largest church in Scotland.

    We arrived at our home for the next two nights, the Kenmore Inn, dating to 1572 and billed as the oldest hotel in Scotland, in time to relax with our tour companions before dinner. The weather was pleasant enough to sit outside. Following an excellent dinner of Scottish salmon, we had a lovely walk to the Kenmore castle before dark (which comes later since we are far north).    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    CrannogLog boats at Crannig CenterNote the pilings holding the structure above water. The crannog could house 25 people, and animals.This could be an Oregon forest.Falls at Ossians Folly in the HermitageAberfeldy Distillery

    A check on Dennis's bucket list.

    August 21, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Our day began with a visit to the Crannog Centre, where we were able to go inside a reconstruction of an ancient home built on Loch Tay. The reconstruction is based
    on underwater archeological finds retrieved from the lake that demonstrate the skill and engineering knowledge required to build these large, dry and cozy structures more than 2500 years ago.

    The next stop was for a walk to a waterfall through the beautiful forest at the Hermitage. The forest and vegetation here is very much like western Oregon. We had lunch and free time for strolling and shopping in Dunkeld, before a drive to Aberfeldy for a tour and tasting of Dewar's malted whisky (we in the USA call it Scotch, but here it is just whisky - spelled without an "e").

    Back to home base in Kenmore for dinner (sea bass for Myj, venison for Dennis) and a presentation by Gillie McNab all about bagpipes, including her own history as one of the first women in an official pipe band. She was quite colorful and entertaining. We were offered the chance to play the pipes ourselves. Those who tried found it not only takes good breath, but coordination to blow and squeeze in the right rhythm, and that was with Gillie fingering the tune. Dennis was the most successful, producing enough sound for a whole tune, while marching and even saluting. Of course, we always knew he was full of hot air!    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Each dog has a job, Neal works with multiple dogs at once.
    Weaving the sheep between the dogs.Shearing by hand.Highlands scenery.Scones for lunch!Culloden memorialInverness CastleDon joined the local musiciansScottish version of a dollar store!

    Into the Highlands

    August 22, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Our drive today took us into the beautiful, rugged Highlands. The combination of rocky outcroppings, green trees and grass, and patches of purple heather against the bit of blue sky peeking through the clouds was stunning.

    The first stop was at Leault Farm to watch shepherd Neal Ross' Border Collies working sheep. His control of several dogs, each doing his own job simultaneously is amazing. We got a chance to help shear a sheep and bottle feed the lambs.

    Our afternoon at Culloden battlefield was a somber contrast. The museum has many interactive displays and living history characters. Myj was especially interested, having read the Outlander books, which center around the Jacobite rebellion that led to this battle.

    On to Inverness; after checking into our hotel on the bank of the River Ness, we enjoyed some traditional music at Macgregor's Pub. Don, one of our fellow tour members, joined in with the local musicians on his harmonica, which made it extra fun.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Approaching the castle.Oh, to be a Laird!Grant Tower

    Where's Nessie?

    August 23, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Thursday's adventure began with a cruise on Loch Ness to the ruins of Urquhart Castle. Sadly, we didn't spot Nessie, but did enjoy the scenery along the loch.

    We had plenty of time to clamber about the castle, which is still impressive despite being in ruins. You can see that it's site on the cliffs of Loch Ness provided protection as well as a great view. Location, location, location!Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    One of the three cairnsWill Myj pass through the stone?Cup and hook marks.. Archeologists are not sure what these are from.Our group enjoying a Scottish picnic.A wonderful setting for a picnic.

    Through the Stones at Clava Cairns

    August 23, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Leaving Urquhart Castle, we continued our journey back in time to 2000 BC to the mysterious mounds and standing stones at Clava Cairns. Although archeologists are not sure who built them, they suppose that they were burial chambers for persons of importance. The keyhole-shaped entrance to each of the three cairns is aligned so that the rising sun on either the summer or winter solstice shines directly into the chamber.

    There are cairns and standing stones throughout Britain, but these at Clava Cairns were the inspiration for Claire's journey back in time in the first of the Outlander books. Myj did try passing through, but apparently is not a Traveler. Just as well, as it would be terrible to miss the rest of the trip!

    Before leaving the site, we enjoyed a Scottish picnic. Our guide Brian produced a generous spread of typical picnic foods of smoked salmon and haddock, Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, cheeses, oatcakes, a selection of ales and wines (the wines were French and Italian - the scarcity of arable soil in Scotland is not conducive for grapes). We tried everything and enjoyed most of it. Dennis liked the haggis flavored chips, but Myj could pass.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The bird is real, the bird feeder is bronze.European Robin

    Lost in the castle gardens

    August 23, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Our last stop on Thursday before returning to Inverness was at Cawdor Castle, a more "modern" castle (15th century with numerous additions) that is still a home for the Dowager Countess of Cawdor.

    The main attraction for Myj were the beautiful gardens. We spent most of our time wandering in the White Garden, Wild Garden, Knot Garden, Walled Garden and maze. We did take a quick run through the castle itself, which reminded Myj of Downton Abbey.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The weather cleared momentarily for a view of the glen from the gondola.
    Our reward for the cold, wet hike at the top!GlencoeThe mists of Glencoe.The sun came out in Oban.Our guest house.The door at Wellpark Guest HouseOban harbourObanOur view of the sunset

    Through the Great Glen

    August 24, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Friday morning and we're off across the Highlands on our way to Oban on the West coast of Scotland. Although it was raining for our stop at Aonach Mor' to ride the gondola to 3300 feet for a short hike, guide Brian promised a treat, so we were game. Cold and wet, we nevertheless enjoyed a wee dram of Glayvon liqueur at the top. Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest peak, did not reveal itself from the clouds, but the weather broke just long enough for a view of the glen.

    Carrying on, we stopped briefly at Glencoe, a steep valley with hills, creeks and waterfalls all along the glen. Glencoe's history is marked by the betrayal and murder of Clan MacDonald by Clan Campbell. The glen has also been the setting for many movies, from Highlander to Harry Potter.

    Arriving in Oban in the afternoon, we were greeted by clear blue skies and a fabulous view of the harbor (or harbour) from our room in Wellpark Guest House, formerly a mansion built for a ship owner. The siting of the house is perfect for watching the ships, ferries and fishing boats coming and going.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Enjoying the serenity of Iona
    Blue is the color of the day. I love the blue roof of the cottage, the blue netting on the fishing pots, and tA baby hairy coo.Colorful IonaHave I mentioned how beautiful the day was?More colorsThe bay between Mull and Iona: the aqua, turquoise and Carribean blue are gorgeous.

    A picture postcard day.

    August 25, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Saturday we sailed by ferry to the Isle of Mull, where we were picked up by a local driver/guide Christopher. Mull is one of the largest Hebridean islands, and due to the single track roads, it took an hour to drive across Mull. But Chris kept us well entertained with his droll humor, tales of remote island life, and sightings of wildlife. Then a quick ride on the small ferry to the tiny Isle of Iona. It could not have been a more beautiful day, and Myj took so many pictures they need to be split into two posts. We will remember Scotland as primarily green, but today was brilliant blues, contrasted with the red and orange of the boats and fishing equipment.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Contemplating
    Iona AbbeyMonasteryIona AbbeyIona AbbeyIona has some of the oldest Celtic crosses.The nunnery

    Peaceful Iona Abbey

    August 25, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    The tiny island of Iona has been a place of religious significance since 536 AD, when St. Columba traveled from Ireland. It is a peaceful place, with only 150 year-round inhabitants. We had plenty of time to wander around the restored abbey, the remains of the nunnery, and just enjoy the beautiful and serene surroundings.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The unicorn is Scotland's national animal.
    All of the castle buildings would been Royal Gold originally, but only the tower has been restored to this colIntricate statues line the exterior wall of the palaceThe Queens GardensI need a fireplace like this.Royal throneCeiling in the palaceKing's bed chamber.Ceiling in the Great Hall. The best carpenters were the shipbuilders, so it is essentially an upside-down hullThe royal banquet table.

    Unicorns everywhere!

    August 26, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Sunday already! We left Oban for the drive along the bonny, bonny banks of Loch Lomand to Stirling. Stirling Castle, royal residence of Scottish kings and queens, including Mary Queen of Scots, was built to rival the sumptuous castles of France in the fifteenth century. The recreations of the 16th century Unicorn Tapestries, and the carved wooden Stirling Heads on the ceiling are amazing.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The Kelpies are named Duke and Baron
    Hauntingly lifelike.I offered him an apple, but like my horse, Oliver, he must prefer carrots.Reflections

    The Magical Kelpies

    August 26, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Leaving the unicorns behind at Stirling, we headed back to Edinburgh on the final leg of our journey with the Rick Steves tour. As a special request "because we were good," guide Brian stopped in Falkirk to view more mythical beasts, The Kelpies. Made of stainless steel, these are the tallest equestrian sculptures in the world. They are very lifelike, being modeled on draft horses that were used to pull the loads along the canals where the Kelpies sit. Enchanting beasts they are!Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The last supper. Caroline from California (on the right end of table), was celebrating her 40th birthday.
    Dennis's "tour buddy" BarryFrom R: back of Patty and Paula's heads, Tom, Patrick, Annie, Don, Margaret, Hugh, Sheila, BillCarol and Barry, WashingtonPhil and Iva, CaliforniaPatty (Bend), Marshall and Linda(San Francisco), Ida (North Carolina)Ann from Spokane. She and Dennis were whisky tasters extraordinaire!Sheila and Hugh, North CarolinaBob and Norma, MinnesotaDeborah and Bill, North Carolina (back of Barry's head)

    Farewell to our tour buddies

    August 26, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Sunday evening was our last dinner with our fellow Rick Steves tour travelers. We had a wonderful dinner at The Bonham Hotel, where we started the tour just over a week ago. Our guide Brian started the farewell toasts off with a hilarious "prayer for Rick Steves tourists," and his was followed by many more.

    As we thought at the beginning, these are all fun and interesting people. Whether due to the RS "no grumps policy" (really, you have to sign when you book), or just the luck of the draw, there wasn't a single bad apple. As we often had free time or were on our own to explore, we ended up spending time individually (or in couples) with each of the others.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Jan and Sheila from Bend went with us.Royal Yacht BritanniaThe Queen's reception roomThe Royal dining room.The Queen's bedroom. Prince Philip has a separate room across the corridor. Both have single beds.Where the "yotties" (crew) sleeps.The engine room.

    A day on the yacht with the Royals

    August 27, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Tour over, we joined up with the ladies from Bend for a visit to the Royal Yacht Britannia. The Queen no longer has a yacht, as travel is by air now, but the Yacht took her around the world many times.

    Later in the day, we took the train to Glasgow. Buying tickets was an adventure, as the credit card function was not working and exact change was required. It took Myj three tries to find the right combination of paper and coins. We were just staying the one night, so Myj had booked a Hampton near the train station, which looked pretty much like any Hampton anywhere!    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Portree Harbour
    Glasgow: Dennis wanted a kilt, but unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective) they were cloAnniversary dinner. Local mussels!The seasoned traveler at Queen Street StationThe Harry Potter steam trainGlenfinnan Viaduct. Next stop: Hogwarts!What???!!!!Portree in daylight.Our bed and breakfast: Ben TianavaigA deconstructed crannachan. We ate very well!

    Over the sea to Skye

    August 28, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We enjoyed a wonderful 41st anniversary dinner Monday night at Two Fat Ladies in Glasgow. Up early Tuesday morning, we began our journey by train, ferry and automobile to the Isle of Skye. The West Highland train line is said to be one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, and it was beautiful, even in the rain. We passed along several lochs, quaint villages, and traveled briefly alongside the West Highland walking trail (100 miles). We felt sorry for the sodden backpackers. A highlight was passing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous in the Harry Potter movies. When we reached Mallaig, the "Harry Potter train" steam engine was parked on the tracks alongside, ready to make her return to Fort William.

    The ferry took us over the sea to Skye, where we were met by the gentleman from the motor booking agency with our little manual transmission diesel Ford Focus, with the steering wheel on the right. Dennis did great driving on the left. Myj helped by clutching the armrest, leaning side to side and gasping - and we weren't even on the single track roads yet!

    It was a very rainy drive, but the weather began to clear by the time we reached our adorable B&B in the colorful town of Portree. Our hosts, Charlotte and Bill welcomed us at the door and we felt like friends immediately.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    The tall monolith on the right is The Old Man of Storr.
    This is another old man, Kilt Rock behind him.Shoreline near Kilt RockHeather and wildflowersPanorama near Kilt RockKilt RockIsland village. There are more sheep than people on Skye.

    A bonnie bright day!

    August 29, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Wednesday started with a delicious stuffed croissant and fruit breakfast served by Charlotte. Then we started our exploration around the Trotternish Peninsula. First stop was The Old Man of Storr, a natural monolith standing watch over the island. We opted to skip the two hour hike to the top. We did walk a bit and spend some time along the beautiful seaside cliffs near Kilt Rock, so named because it looks like the pleats in a kilt. The sun sparkling on the sea, the blooming heather and wildflowers was gorgeous.Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Hiking in the Quiraing
    Our first single-track road experience on the way up the QuiraingParking was fun. Poor Focus.View from the trail QuaraingArtist in his studio.The ink and pencil sketch I bought from Bill Lawrence.If you have potholes, might as well have a sense of humor.A wee piper

    Continuing around the Trotternish

    August 29, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We continued our journey around the Trotternish Peninsula to the otherworldly Quiraing. This was our first experience on the two-way single-track roads. Not only is the road steep, with several very tight turns, but it is a popular destination, so there were frequent stops at the barely-wide-enough passing places. More breath-holding and clutching by Myj assured that we made it up to the top. The view is spectacular!

    After our hike, just missing a rain shower, we drove along the coast toward Uig for a lunch stop at the Uig Hotel. Along the way, Myj convinced Dennis to stop at a little cottage in the middle of almost nowhere with a sign for Trotternish Art Studio. This was the home and studio of sepia ink and pencil artist Bill Lawrence. Visiting with him was well worth the stop, and Myj bought a sketch as well. There is actually a thriving arts and crafts community on Skye. You can see why, as the scenery is inspiring and once the tourists leave in Fall, it would be very serene.

    We returned to Portree in time to investigate the shops. Dennis was lagging behind, so Myj had to run back to hurry him along when she discovered the Skye Youth Pipe Band performing in the town square. Ranging from maybe seven years to teens, it was fun to watch their concentration. They played very well also.

    To end the day, we enjoyed an excellent dinner at renowned Scorrybreac. We had made reservations months ago (thanks to Open Table), and we were glad we did. It was excellent, and thankfully just next door to our B&B. Scotland is definitely a place for foodies. In addition to traditional foods, there is an abundance of fresh local seafood. The Scottish beef is also very good, and lamb, when it is on the menu. Myj was surprised that lamb is not offered more, since there are definitely a lot of sheep. Our guide said it is actually expensive, however, so maybe that is why.    Read more

  • Castles, Cairns, Craigs & Coos
    Happy cows in the tiny village of Elgol
    ElgolSkye traffic jam.The CuillinsMaid of CoruiskLoch CoruiskoOnboard the Maid of CurruiskElgol cottage with cows on the beachBaby Willow in her pram.

    Cows on the road, cows on the beach!

    August 30, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Up bright and early for our drive to Elgol. Having read reviews, guide books and listened to advice from our hosts, we were somewhat prepared for the 15 miles of single-track road to the very tiny harbour of Elgol. However, the consensus was that the views of the Cullian mountain range, and the boat trip with the MacKinnons was worth it. The reality was hold-your-breath-there's-someone-coming! There really weren't that many cars, but there were a lot of cows and sheep next to or on the road, blind corners, narrow bridges and cattle guards, and a few locals and/or ignorant tourists who didn't know or didn't care.

    But that done, we arrived and boarded the boat to take us to Loch Coruisk. Finn was our first mate, and could not have been more enthusiastic. He entertained us with stories of his ancestor rescuing and hiding Bonnie Prince Charlie in a cave on the inlet. We hiked a bit along the loch, enjoying yet another beautiful day, then readied ourselves for the return drive.

    At lunchtime, we stopped for an excellent lunch at Creelers in Broadford. We noticed a baby being walked in a beautiful old-fashioned pram, and we were delighted when the baby spontaneously began to wave at us. Later, in a jewelry shop, we discovered that the baby was the owner's 16 month old daughter, being walked by Granny (young looking granny!).    Read more

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