Wahiba Sands

The supposed chill day, but there never was going to be one of these while I was in Oman. Woke up early in the morning for a short drive down to Muscat's bayside for the day's first activity: Dolphin watching. The marina was radiant during sunrise and the waters were calm and shimmering. I waited for a bit in the cafe, eating some instant noodles for breakfast. We got on our boat and off we went in search of dolphins, which were said to be present en masse all year round. There was a sense of quiet anticipation in the air and once the first sighting was confirmed, we saw the whole pod numbering up to hundreds all jutting in and out of the water. It was definitely hard to get a good shot with the moving boat and rough waves but I managed to get a couple. The videos turned out great though. They were still quite elusive, as soon as I tried to point the cameras at an emerging pod, they were already gone or popping up in another spot. We were cruising with them for such a long time and at one point I figured I had enough. But the trip was still a long one and people on the boat were starting to feel seasick, including me. On our way back, we went through the similar route I took on the first day, seeing the same coves and rock formations but I couldn't enjoy them much anymore and I just wanted to get back onto shore.

The day was going to be a long drive towards Bidiyah for Wahiba Sands and I knew I had to stock up on lunch. It was also probably one of the final opportunities I had to visit the Mutrah Souq at the Corniche. I went to a nearby seafood restaurant where they served fresh catch straight to your table. They were still not open so I opted to walk around the bazaar. Great stuff, very clean and presentable just like Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. I was able to snag myself an Evil Eye here again (which unfortunately cracked on my flight to India). Again with the negotitation mindgames that always throw me off. After negotiating a final price, the vendor once again reduced it by 1 rial. I guess this is really a thing here in Oman which also goes against my principles so I ended up giving him a one up as well in a reverse price negotiation which prompted him to give me a gift in return.

I went back to the seafood restaurant and now they were in business. There was a Chinese family standing right next to me and when I made eye contact with the lady, she spoke to me in Chinese, I replied and told them I came from Japan and to my surprise she could also speak some Japanese. She invited me to sit together with her husband and daughter, who studied in America and could speak English so communication around the table was mostly multi-lingual but possible. They had just been to Wahiba Sands before and went to the other famous Wadis like Wadi Shab. Meanwhile, I gave them some tips on hidden gems to see around Muscat as well as the dolphin watching activity I did this morning. We ordered some great seafood and it was honestly too much for me even though I tried to stuff myself for the long road ahead. We exchanged contacts and I told them I would love to see them again once I visit China next year. They graciously paid for my meal and I gave them all hugs during our farewell. They wished me luck on the long drive ahead.

It was a long drive indeed. Almost 3 hours across the desert and valleys, after daily drives totaling to more than 3-5 hours each day, I definitely started to feel the toll. I was also getting nervous as I was running out of gas and there was still much distance to cover. Thankfully, I found one right in the middle of nowhere and the rest was smoothsailing. I stopped by the agreed place in Bidiyah, where a local Bedouin named Salam, picked me up to continue the rest of the drive into Wahiba Sands since I didn't have a 4x4. He played some Omani traditional dances and music which added much to the desert ride. We agreed to meet later for a special price for dune-bashing.

I was staying at the Thousand Nights Camp which was a very high-end desert hotel, very expensive especially during the holiday season but I wanted to treat myself to this and it was definitely something that went beyond my expectations. The cabin-tents were nothing short of luxurious, the scents, fabrics, and interior design was definitely top-tier. However, I was extremely fatigued already and I could feel it in my body. At the same time, I came all the way here and it would be a shame not to see the desert especially now that the sun was setting. I opted to go for the dune-bashing, but the guy had other business so I ended up booking with the hotel and a bit of a marked-up price.

It was my first time doing it and honestly, it was pretty chill with some fun ups and downs. I was more entranced by the beauty of the desert and my driver, who was also named Salam, picked the best spot to watch the sunset: on top of the highest dune.

I went back for an amazing buffet for dinner with live traditional Bedouin music being played and sung, I can still remember the tune vividly. The stars were out despite the shining moon. I huddled by the bonfire for a bit but didn't have the capacity to wait for the astronomy session later that night. I went back to my tent to finally catch up on some rest shortly after.Read more