Muscat
December 27, 2025 in Oman ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
From above, I could see the white-washed buildings of Muscat, and it already seemed like a different world. I exited the airport to the hot and dry climate, it wasn't so bad. I hoped all my practice drives in Japan would pay off because I was about to drive off with a rental car. I got myself a Hyundai Accent. Everything here was on the other way around, and I quickly had to get used to it. The nerves were definitely there. Thankfully, Muscat's roads were very wide and the infrastructure was amazing. True, there were a lot of speed demons out there but I was able to somehow get used to it and did pretty well during the opening hours, making a few wrong turns every now and then.
My first stop was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. I was also able to nail the parking and was quite proud of that too. Unfortunately, it was closed today but the photos were still pretty great. Nearby was the opulent Royal Opera House. This was one of the architectural gems that I had wanted to see and grab photos of. It did not disappoint. Those geometric shapes made it look like it was some sort of castle found in fractal dreams.
I then went to the secret but also famous, Yiti Viewpoint which boasted sprawling views of Muscat as it's hugged by rugged valleys. My car got stuck for a bit and the rental car company helped me with that.
Now it was time for the fun part. The journey to Qantab beach opened my eyes to the wonders of driving around Oman. The empty desert roads, the freedom and speed allowance and beautiful mountainous scenery was simply outstanding through and through. And Qantab beach? Well what can I say except that Oman's beaches were pristine and world-class. Such a shame or rather how lucky it is that it's not on the radar of a lot of tourists...yet. A kind old fellah approached me about boat rides and it sounded interesting but I wanted to explore the place a bit more first. I went back to the old guy and took up his offer to go on his boat for half the price to which he agreed to immediately. It was such a great decision, because I truly felt happy and couldn't stop myself from smiling as our boat cruised through the open waters and feeling the wind gush against my face. The journey took us through some gnarly seascapes and through some natural caves and coves. I was very satisfied with the experience.
On the way back to Muscat, I stopped by Al Bustan Viewpoint for some more awesome views, no matter how many times it's not possible to not be impressed by Oman's landscapes. I stopped by Al Bustan beach as well, they had a bit of a Santorini-vibe going on as well with these white and blue palette.
At this point, I was pretty hungry since I haven't had anything to eat since morning and had already skipped lunch at this point. Driving also takes a toll, I was very fatigued, jetlagged and sleepy but I just have to make it until dinner it seems like. But the day was not finished and after a long drive back, I still visited Al Alam Palace. Again, just falling in love with Oman. I loved how there were government mandates to preserve the culture and architecture and I was so impressed by just how beautiful everything looked. I daresay this area was even prettier than Prague. One could tell Oman was rich but it wasn't so in your face as Dubai but it's easily seen in both the infrastructure and architecture, but most of all in its people. Not that the people dress in such a manner befitting the rich as they actually do still wear traditional clothing, but the people here are quite dignified in a good way. There is a certain level of class and decorum that is also reflected in their kindness and hospitality. That is a rich culture.
As it was my first night and my first meal, I wanted to treat myself to some good food and I went with an Omani fine-dining restaurant called Bait Al Luban. The service once again did not disappoint, I got some dates and also frankincense water which actually tasted amazing. The dishes were on point and the desert was on point, I was full, satisfied and ready to hit the hay.
I was a bit nervous regarding my hotel after reading reviews of people being swindled by desposits but there was none of that for me. I took a shower, and crashed, sleeping like a log.Read more
Nakhal
December 28, 2025 in Oman ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
A bit of a schedule change because I felt it was a bit too impossible to go straight to Jebel Shams when I have barely settled into Oman. I decided to do a little fort-hopping trip instead.
Driving out of Oman and seeing the colorful valleys and desert simply made getting a car so worth it. What an unbelievable, liberating feeling. I was in awe at the ease and beauty to cruise along such fine roads and exquisite views.
I found a random place called Hujrat Al Shaikh which had a lot of good reviews. I had no idea what it was but when I got there it was quite a pleasant surprise. It was a very rural village with kind people, it had some historic ruins as well as a developing tourist area. Not really sure what they were planning on doing here but it seems to be well underway. It was a short out and back trail.
I also got to see my first Omani fort, Nakhal. Extremely unique, never seen architecture like this before. Like giant sand castles, it had aesthetically pleasing geometry and soft color palettes. I could have spent the whole day just getting lost, exploring each nook and cranny. There was so much history and purpose to each area, whether it was for defense or hosting guests.
I then went to Al Hazm Fort next, another striking castle. The visible cannons sticking out were duly noted. Much like Nakhal, Al Hazm also proved to be a formidable fortress. It felt bigger or perhaps it was because of the labyrinthine corridors. The geometry and symmetry here were much better, in my opinion. The play of light and shadows made it even more contrasting. I also liked the locals here, I got to learn more about the culture, the djinn, and they fed me a lot of dates and veggies too. I haven't had lunch, and it looked like it was going to be another long day without food anytime soon.
I made the journey towards Al Suwayq Castle as well, not really sure what more I was expecting. It was a smaller and not so popular castle, plus it was closed. So I just walked around the perimeter and continued on to Al Sawadi Beach.
Here, there was a tiny island reachable by boat where the Burj Shati Al Suwadi stood on top. I was satisfied with the shot but I had time and this guy offered me a ride. We negotiated the price from 10 down to 8 rial. He dropped me off the other side and I had to hike up. I took my sweet time because we were meeting almost an hour later. It was distinct in its architecture and materials used. It felt almost dream-like considering the location. They were even having a photoshoot for jewelry. Got a whole model dressed in highly glamorous traditional attire to go along with it. I went back down and after waiting for a bit, my boatman came back and asked me a much lower price than agreed, 7 rial without me even asking for it. I thought he had made a mistake at first, but I was also in a generous mood and planned to give him the full 10 anyway. So when we got back, I paid him in full and in return he gave me a hug with his thanks.
Getting hungrier and hungrier, I started to head back into Muscat, stopping by the Zulfa Mosque over at Seeb. It was empty and I didn't dare enter but it looked amazing nevertheless as it was golden hour already.
I decided to have my lunch/dinner at the Rozna Restaurant. As if I didn't have enough forts for the day. Another high-end restaurant built inside a fort, might as well splurge a bit on the meal since I was only getting 1 meal a day at this rate. The service was horrible though, waiters ignored me even when they saw I was wanting to order. It went for a long time, it didn't seem to be a race thing because I made eye-contact with an Omani who was also getting the same treatment. He gave me that exasperated look and I gave him an understanding one. The whole thing was made much more bearable due to the kindness of locals once again. There was a girl group sitting right across me and they seemed to have a good relationship with their waitress. They pointed and asked her to actually take my order as they noticed everyone had been ignoring me. My gratitude to them. Food was alright, and desert was also good. I wanted to take out some for breakfast but I wasn't waiting for another half hour for nothing so I paid my bill went back to my hotel.Read more
Wahiba Sands
December 29, 2025 in Oman ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
The supposed chill day, but there never was going to be one of these while I was in Oman. Woke up early in the morning for a short drive down to Muscat's bayside for the day's first activity: Dolphin watching. The marina was radiant during sunrise and the waters were calm and shimmering. I waited for a bit in the cafe, eating some instant noodles for breakfast. We got on our boat and off we went in search of dolphins, which were said to be present en masse all year round. There was a sense of quiet anticipation in the air and once the first sighting was confirmed, we saw the whole pod numbering up to hundreds all jutting in and out of the water. It was definitely hard to get a good shot with the moving boat and rough waves but I managed to get a couple. The videos turned out great though. They were still quite elusive, as soon as I tried to point the cameras at an emerging pod, they were already gone or popping up in another spot. We were cruising with them for such a long time and at one point I figured I had enough. But the trip was still a long one and people on the boat were starting to feel seasick, including me. On our way back, we went through the similar route I took on the first day, seeing the same coves and rock formations but I couldn't enjoy them much anymore and I just wanted to get back onto shore.
The day was going to be a long drive towards Bidiyah for Wahiba Sands and I knew I had to stock up on lunch. It was also probably one of the final opportunities I had to visit the Mutrah Souq at the Corniche. I went to a nearby seafood restaurant where they served fresh catch straight to your table. They were still not open so I opted to walk around the bazaar. Great stuff, very clean and presentable just like Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. I was able to snag myself an Evil Eye here again (which unfortunately cracked on my flight to India). Again with the negotitation mindgames that always throw me off. After negotiating a final price, the vendor once again reduced it by 1 rial. I guess this is really a thing here in Oman which also goes against my principles so I ended up giving him a one up as well in a reverse price negotiation which prompted him to give me a gift in return.
I went back to the seafood restaurant and now they were in business. There was a Chinese family standing right next to me and when I made eye contact with the lady, she spoke to me in Chinese, I replied and told them I came from Japan and to my surprise she could also speak some Japanese. She invited me to sit together with her husband and daughter, who studied in America and could speak English so communication around the table was mostly multi-lingual but possible. They had just been to Wahiba Sands before and went to the other famous Wadis like Wadi Shab. Meanwhile, I gave them some tips on hidden gems to see around Muscat as well as the dolphin watching activity I did this morning. We ordered some great seafood and it was honestly too much for me even though I tried to stuff myself for the long road ahead. We exchanged contacts and I told them I would love to see them again once I visit China next year. They graciously paid for my meal and I gave them all hugs during our farewell. They wished me luck on the long drive ahead.
It was a long drive indeed. Almost 3 hours across the desert and valleys, after daily drives totaling to more than 3-5 hours each day, I definitely started to feel the toll. I was also getting nervous as I was running out of gas and there was still much distance to cover. Thankfully, I found one right in the middle of nowhere and the rest was smoothsailing. I stopped by the agreed place in Bidiyah, where a local Bedouin named Salam, picked me up to continue the rest of the drive into Wahiba Sands since I didn't have a 4x4. He played some Omani traditional dances and music which added much to the desert ride. We agreed to meet later for a special price for dune-bashing.
I was staying at the Thousand Nights Camp which was a very high-end desert hotel, very expensive especially during the holiday season but I wanted to treat myself to this and it was definitely something that went beyond my expectations. The cabin-tents were nothing short of luxurious, the scents, fabrics, and interior design was definitely top-tier. However, I was extremely fatigued already and I could feel it in my body. At the same time, I came all the way here and it would be a shame not to see the desert especially now that the sun was setting. I opted to go for the dune-bashing, but the guy had other business so I ended up booking with the hotel and a bit of a marked-up price.
It was my first time doing it and honestly, it was pretty chill with some fun ups and downs. I was more entranced by the beauty of the desert and my driver, who was also named Salam, picked the best spot to watch the sunset: on top of the highest dune.
I went back for an amazing buffet for dinner with live traditional Bedouin music being played and sung, I can still remember the tune vividly. The stars were out despite the shining moon. I huddled by the bonfire for a bit but didn't have the capacity to wait for the astronomy session later that night. I went back to my tent to finally catch up on some rest shortly after.Read more
Wadi Shab
December 30, 2025 in Oman ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Having to wake up at 5AM when all I was craving was for some more time to rest was something I almost came to regret...almost. I had pre-booked a sunrise yoga for my stay here and since it was already paid, I might as well go for it. I arrived at the hotel lobby to see a few other people who were joining the sesh. Our instructor was an Indian from Rishikesh. We made some small talk as I was going to India next after Oman and he was happy to learn that I was going to be going to his hometown.
While everyone got into place, my yoga mat was placed beside his and it was us both in front. Not sure if it was on purpose but it should be fine since I had ample experience in yoga. And it showed. I didn't realize the gap would be big but everyone had a difficult time to do even the most basic of poses. I was very flexible so one of the gents even asked the instructor if I was actually also a secretly hired teacher. All in all, it was a good experience to be doing yoga out in the desert during sunrise. I was lucky enough that immediately after that, there was a falcon show and we got to learn a lot about the art of falconry and got to see it in action as well. Big bonus for the day.
I then went to have my breakfast buffet and tried to stuff myself up as much as I can for the long day ahead. I had no idea when the next time I would be having lunch would be. I checked out and said goodbye to one of the Salam's before the other Salam drove me back to where I parked my car in Bidiyah. From then on, it was time for another long desert road trip.
I tried to go to Wadi Bin Khalid first but it seems like the Google Maps point I was following was wrong as it took me to the middle of nowhere. Really unfortunate that I wasted so much time here, but I moved on towards Qalhat Beach. The town of Qalhat itself was an ancient city so there was much history here though the empty beach and beautiful mountain range was really the main draw for me.
The highlight of the day would have to go to Wadi Shab, it was also the most crowded place in Oman. It was difficult to find parking and quite tight too. I forgot to get waterproof bags as suggested by Linda. I thought I could get it from the other side of the river but it was too late now as our boat had already crossed. From then on it was a more or less flat trek with a slight incline towards the inner wadi. What strikes me the most was the emerald flowing waters contrasting with the beige cliffs. It was nothing short of magnificent. I reached the end of the rope however as I couldn't swim through the valley due to my belongings and there were too many people so I couldn't leave my things laying around there as well. I had to turn back. I even wounded my toe right after someone said it was dangerous to be hiking in slippers. Well he wasn't wrong. I was a bit worried about the bleeding and it looked like I wouldn't be able to swim in the Bimmah Sinkhole as well to prevent infection. I was bummed and it was getting hot too.
I drove to the nearby Pebbles Beach which was also very picturesque and away from the crowds. The nearby Bimmah Sinkhole was impressive but not as impressive as Wadi Shab. I like to imagine it was a giant crater formed by a meteorite.
I visited the Quriyat Salt Pans next, the drone photos looked so pretty but I could only do so much at the ground level. The wind here was unrelentingly strong, it was an exhilirating experience. They even had a pink pond here from all the salt. Still it was more long drives towards Muscat, the mirages on the road certainly didn't help. I went to Al Serah Tower which was inside some sort of compound. It was pretty and the people here seemed to go around the roundabout and out after seeing it. It was on the way so why not?
I tried to go to Bandar Al Khairan, hoping to make it to catch the sunset and some bioluminiscent plankton but the roads turned into grainy terrain and it started to seem a bit sketchy to keep going on. The fact that my car felt like it fell off a tiny cliff pretty much scared me and I decided it was better to just head back to Muscat at this point. Right after that, my car started to make these grainy sounds most of them from the debris but it started to get louder and I was afraid it was some engine trouble. Notwithstanding the fact that I was on a highway, I was quite nervous and pulled over into one of the empty lots and tried to get in touch with my rental car company. I tried to explain and send them some videos but the internet was slow as hell. They said it's alright and to keep going to the nearest gas station so they can have a look and fix it up, but I was quite apprehensive to keep going as the sounds were very nerve-wracking. I went to the most right lane and put on hazards as I went as slow as 40-60 km/h. Cars honked and passed me by and soon I saw that there was a truck behind me that was flashing its lights. I thought he was signaling that he wanted to pass so I moved the car in the middle lane only for the truck to pull up beside me. I wasn't sure what to do so I slowed down even more so it could just proceed but it slowed down as well and started flashing lights again. I looked over and we made eye contact and I finally understood that they wanted to help me. He signalled to pull over and once I did, both of them went out of their truck and started to investigate my ride. They quickly found out that it was a small issue concerning a flap that had come undone and was slapping wildly due to the speed and wind. Such a small issue that was fixed by a short metal string. I was so grateful and beyond relieved to have experienced such kindness and help from strangers at such an hour of need. It truly solidified the Omani people for me.
I gassed up and had my car cleaned in a gas station on the outskirts of Muscat before driving straight to my hotel to park and find dinner on foot. I ended up in an Indian restaurant and got some biryani which was more than enough. Amazing service too, always weird for me when the waiter serves the food directly to your plate, I am guessing it's a South Asian thing.Read more
