Jerusalem
June 18, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
As I got off the sherut, I found myself in the bustling city of downtown Jerusalem. A place so foreign for me even though I had listened to some podcasts on Judaism and the holy places in Israel, I still wasn't prepared enough to tackle getting to Tel Aviv from Jerusalem on Shabbat while starving. After the altercation with the Malta flight, I started to get a bit nervous if original route going to Athens, Bucharest, Poland and finally landing in Tokyo was going to be feasible or not. It was still early in the afternoon, and according to what I have gathered, public transportation won't be running until sundown. First order of business was trying to find food as I walked without any clear destination in mind. I passed by an enticing kebab place, the exuberant prices threw me off but didn't deter me from cashing in on it with my credit card. The credit card declined and after trying my other cards, it looks like I wasn't getting any food from this fine establishment. I continued on until I spotted a convenience store, I bought some chocolate chip cookies and water. The clerk taught me about Shabbat and the transportation system and he also sold me a Rav-Kav, a card used for transportation all around Israel. My credit card luckily pushed through for the goods but it didn't work for the Rav-Kav. I was at a loss and asked if there was any place to exchange some money but then this lady at the back asked how much I owed and paid for me. She also asked how much one of the snacks was and the clerk told her to just take it. I think it's really true that a genuine act of kindness, always does spark another. I felt very touched and grateful with how everything turned out. I spent sometime outside eating some chocolate chip cookies which probably wasn't the best way to stave off hunger. I slowly made my way to one of the gates of the Old City but decided not to go in yet as to not spoil myself and besides I really wasn't in the right state of mind and body to go sight-seeing. I made my way to a garden right outside the gate and situated myself underneath a tree. I was thinking of just letting the time pass me by but then I overheard a familiar language coming from the opposite tree. There was a gathering of Filipino women. It was always comforting to find my fellow countrymen in such a foreign country. It does make sense that Israel would have a large Filipino population since the Philippines is a Christianity-dominant country. Feeling a bit alone and lost, I approached the group and spoke in Tagalog and was welcomed pretty quickly with open arms. They fed me delicious pansit and cake as it was one of the lady's birthday. I didn't hold back and ate as much as I can, I was so hungry and it really felt like a blessing from the Holy City to be able to eat such amazing food with excellent company. I told them my predicament and asked them how is it possible to get to Tel Aviv during Shabbat. They told me that there were sheruts heading to Tel Aviv and that they were also going that way and that I can go with them. What stroke of luck really, the warmness of Filipinos never fades away no matter how far you are from home. They paid for my ride and we were off to Tel Aviv.Read more
Tel Aviv
June 18, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
From the sherut, I walked with my Filipina companions to the train station where the bus stops were supposedly at. I couldn't go with them through the entrance due to my big bag and I was told by the security guard that I had to go through a different gate to undergo the security scans. So I said my goodbyes and gave my thanks to these kind people who really helped me out of a not so good situation. Israel really takes its security seriously though I am not sure if seeing a lot of guns around the city should make me feel safer or more on edge. I was able to enter the station but now I was alone and with my heavy bag, I started to make my way around to try and find the right platform and my search took me to the top floor. It was hot here, and I realized the bus I was waiting for was still due in 6 hours. The only upside to waiting in this desolate terminal was the amazing graffiti all around the walls. At this point, I was getting a bit down as this day has just been a roller coaster of emotions. I was still stressing about my return flight and wondering whether it was possible or not. I got restless and decided to try my luck at McDonald's to see if I could get a decent meal and use my credit card. Luckily, there was wi-fi! I was able to get in touch with Rozy and let her know my situation. She made a pretty good recommendation to check out Gordon Beach which sounded absolutely delightful compared to waiting in this depressing place. Thanks to McDonald's wi-fi, I was able to plot my route going to Gordon Beach and from there to Givatayim, Rozi and Elad's place. I set out motivated and ready for a renewed chance to reclaim the day.
Getting in the station was easy, getting out proved to be a bit difficult. It was a like a labyrinth in here and the people I tried asking had no interest in helping me. I ended up in an underground market. It was amazing to see how large and strong the Filipino community in Israel is because the whole market was owned by Filipinos and the shoppers were all Filipinos as well. I asked one of the clerks on how to get to the exit and she gladly pointed me in the right direction.
Outside the station, I made my way to the bus stop following Google Maps. It was empty and the bench a bit dilapidated but I was both hopeful and somehow doubtful if a bus was really coming due to Shabbat. I waited until the supposed arrival time but the bus never came and going back to McDonald's again seemed like such a dumb idea after making my way all the way out here. I waited for a bit more but my patience was dwindling and I was thinking of just giving up but then a girl came to the bus stop and started to talk to me in Hebrew. I told her that I'm not Israeli and she switched to English asking about the bus. She told me that there was actually a free shuttle bus going around the city during Shabbat and it should be arriving soon. I confirmed if it was going to Gordon Beach and she said yes. This was amazing news and perfect timing as well since I was on the verge of going back to the station. The bus did come as predicted and I was one step closer to the beach promenade of Tel Aviv.
I got down the bus and started the long walk to the beach, it was still a bit a far but now I was in a good mood, the smell of the ocean and the energy from it was quickly washing away my negative mood. Crossing over the last street separating me from the beach, I was greeted with an amazing panorama. The sand stretched for kilometers and was filled by innumerable beach-goers. The vibe here was insane, people were playing all sorts of sports, sunbathers and swimmers lazed along the coast line, dogs and their masters taking a walk and the unmistakeable scent of weed almost everywhere. The Tel Aviv beach scene was very different from the one I had in mind but on hindsight, this seemed to be much more realistic. I made my way nearer to the water and found some empty seats to put my things. I took off my shoes and enjoyed feeling the sand on my feet. The sun was nearing the horizon and the lights grew more warmer and golden. Watching the sunset on the beach was definitely one of the best ways to spend the day while waiting for Shabbat to end. I spent a long time here, even after the sun had set and darkness taken over. It still felt melancholic and nostalgic to be in front of the ebb and flow of the water especially at night. I was able to catch the bus going to Givatayim, I followed Rozi's video and ended up at their place. I punched in the code and knocked on their apartment door and was warmly welcomed by Rozi and Elad. I hosted both of them while they were traveling around Japan and this time around they are returning the favor by hosting me back. We had some time to catch up and they also helped me get up to speed about the ins and outs of Israel. Elad helped load my Rav-Kav and Rozi introduced me to their two giant dogs. I was sleeping on their couch which was much more comfortable and better than the hostel I was staying in Amman. The night was cool and I felt really cozy. I took a much needed shower and got all my things settled in and my game plan set up for tomorrow. I wanted to make some calls to confirm if my flights were going to be possible or not first and foremost.Read more
Jaffa
June 19, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
My only plan in the morning was to laze about and catch up on some things like confirming my flight plan. I made some calls to the embassy to confirm and was relieved to hear that it was possible. With one less worry on my mind, I found myself back in the present moment. Playing with Rozi's dogs was great fun, their home was nice and furnished with a lot of memoribilia. I was to visit Jaffa today, the historical center in Tel Aviv but I also planned to also see the sunset so decided it was better to go later in the afternoon. I got hungry after awhile and asked for some recommendations from Rozi, she pointed me out to a restaurant where I can get some hummus but when I got there it was closed. Thinking it was still too early, I went back to the apartment to wait a bit more. I went back again later only to find it still closed, another lady was there who had the same idea as me but it looks like it wasn't open today. Now, I was very hungry so I set out further until I spotted an interesting kiosk selling sabich which is what I would describe as an eggplant sandwich. I eagerly waited in line, seeing how they would put in the various condiments and ingredients made it all the more appetizing. Needless to say, it was absolutely scrumptious and made for one of my favorite meals so far which is not saying much as this was my first actual Israeli meal. I went back to the apartment and told Rozi about my epic meal and it was pretty funny because turns out I had ruined the surprise they were preparing for me since they wanted to take me there for dinner. With my stomach full and being all freshened up, I was quite ready to go explore Jaffa and I got on the local bus and got off at the Clocktower, a popular landmark in the old district.
From there, I followed the path going uphill and saw an amazing view of the Tel Aviv coastline, a long crescent-shaped strip of beach with towering buildings in the horizon. I had a checklist with me of spots that I wanted to hit around the old town and so with my trusty umbrella shading me from the harsh sun, I made my way to the port. There was some construction happening that barred me from moving forward so I had no choice but to turn back and enter one of the alleyway entrances of the old town. I found myself transported back in time as I walked along the cobblestone steps of Jaffa. There was nobody else here which was always a welcome blessing. I quickly went into photographer mode and started snapping shots left and right. It was really fun to get lost in the old town and I was able to hit a lot of the places I wanted to see such as the Al-Bahr Mosque, also known as the Sea Mosque, St. Peter's Church, the Zodiac Fountain and the Suspended Orange Tree. Being spent from all the walking, it was time to hit the beach and enjoy the ocean vibes. This time, I went to Charles Clore Beach. The beach had a nice view of a monastery on the hill as well as an amazing view point for sunset but I was still too early. I tried to find a shaded area to hide away from the sun which later ended up with me under a bridge. It was times like these that made my mind wander off. With nothing to do and no one to talk to, I usually get melancholic. Fast forward to when the sun was closing in on the horizon, I started to look for a good spot to sit and watch the sunset. The beach had gotten quite crowded and it was always fun to people-watch as everyone has something going on and the dogs were always a joy to see. The sunset was beautiful as always, much better than yesterday's, I remember there was an elder couple beside me that enjoyed the view as much as I did. With the sun gone, the day grew colder and I started to head to the nearby bus station to go back to the apartment.
Unfortunately, Rozi and Elad were out and had other plans so they were coming back much later so I had no choice but to wait outside for a while but at least I had wi-fi. When they got back, we all went out for dinner, we were supposed to go get the promised sabich but ended up in a gastropub instead where I ordered an asado sandwich. We were able to really catch up and talk about a myriad of interesting topics from the Israeli-Palestinian relations, Japan, Jewish culture and the Ultra-Orthodox Jews, to which I endearingly call Super Jews for short. I've seen some of them here and there but Elad told me I would see a lot more of them in Jerusalem. They had a different life compared to the average Israeli with full focus on their religion and free from a lot of financial burdens that the average citizen must face. There's clear segregation in the community and they are tied deeply into the political structure of Israel. Rozi and Elad both served in the military as well and had some experience dealing with Palestine but it's still quite a touchy topic and something I still can't wrap my head around with. The night ended with more conversations about Jewish traditions such as Bar Mitzvah, funeral rights and other Jewish holidays.Read more
Caesarea
June 20, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Rozi had to leave for work early in the morning so it was just me and Elad this time around. He showed me his lego collection and helped me plan my route for the day as well as finding me a restaurant to try hummus. I had my doubts if hummus could actually fill me up but I was dead wrong because I could barely finish my hummus shakshuka. It was my last day staying in Tel Aviv and I really appreciated Elad and Rozi for letting me crash at their place. I was heading to Haifa and dropping by Caesarea National Park first. After I packed my things, I said goodbye to Elad and went off to the bus stop where I waited for a long time for the bus that never came, I backtracked again to Elad's place to borrow the wi-fi and try to find other routes but I was wasting a lot of time and getting a bit stressed. I decided on a route and saved a lot of photos on Google Maps, I just had to find my way to the train station before the train departs. The bus I got on was super crowded and noisy but at least I was making progress. I had trouble finding the entrance to the train station as well, I wasted more time trying to find the station and backtracking a couple of times until I was told that it was on the other side. From there, I tapped my Rav-Kav and got on a station heading to Caesarea. The train was surprisingly exquisite as it was very different compared to other forms of public transportation I've experienced thus far. The Israeli government had put in a lot of budget on its train system, I suppose. When I saw that the current stop was Caesarea, I kinda panicked a bit and went down from there, only to realize that I was still pretty far from the actual park. There was a lone taxi driver there waiting who offered to take me for a pretty price. I asked the nearby station staff about directions and if the price the driver quoted was fair, he had a stutter but was super accomodating and helpful. I ended up going with the taxi driver and was soon dropped in front of the ticket booth.
Caesarea is a span of land by the sea featuring the remnants of ancient Roman ruins. It was also a bit commercialized as it had a lot of restaurants and shops scattered hither and tither. I left my bag beside a tree since it was so heavy and it would have been too difficult to explore while lugging it around. It was a risky play on my part but I was still too trusting and naive. I explored the west part first, the main highlight being the Roman theatre. The east side featured a lot of ruins by the sea and it was something more akin to a hiking trail that stretched all the way across to the opposite beach which had the aqueducts that I wanted to get a photo off but it was too far and I didn't have much time so I turned back to grab my bag which was thankfully still there. My bus was still a ways off so I hid underneath one of the buildings near the entrance to keep cool. I then waited for the bus that once again didn't arrive at the supposed time, maybe I was too used to Japan so I started to get a bit nervous as I really needed to get to Haifa. My friend Jacob was waiting for me there, another Israeli that I hosted in Tokyo who was hosting me back. I saw that there was another bus on the other side of the road so I crossed over to ask if it was heading to the train station and he said yes so I just went with it. Turns out this bus took the most time-consuming route possible and went all around the park and the nearby town before dropping me by the station. I was a bit late so I was feeling guilty making Jacob wait for me but at least I was heading towards Haifa now.Read more
Haifa
June 20, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
I arrived at Haifa's Carmel station, I frantically hurried out of the station to head to the pre-determined meeting place with Jacob. A restaurant with the name of Camel which was near Dado beach. From the distance, I saw Jacob who smiled back at me when he saw me approaching. It was always nice to see a familiar face in a sea of unknown faces. Jacob had a car so we decided to drop my things at his place first before heading back out to the beach to swim and catch the sunset. I haven't been able to get into the water all this time because of fear that my bag would be stolen but I was stoked that I could swim and see the sunset while in the water this time around. Haifa was really beautiful compared to Tel Aviv, it had the best of both worlds of nature. The city was built on Mount Carmel so it had the mountains on one side and the ocean on the other. It had a very different vibe compared to Tel Aviv, the streets were much cleaner and everything seemed more laidback. Jacob took me to the Baha'i Gardens, one of Haifa's main highlights and a Unesco World Heritage site. It was unfortunately closed today and I couldn't join any tours but Jacob took me to a spot that offered an amazing view of the gardens as it cascaded down to the main church with its golden dome, from there it was a straight line all the way to the ocean and the horizon. Jacob drove us to his apartment and we ran into his boyfriend, Charlie, who was driving out the opposite direction. He made a comment that I had nice glasses which was a first for me, it was certainly welcome. Jacob made a comment that I was true to my word since back when he was staying with me in Tokyo, I told him that I would visit Israel and here I am indeed. Jacob's house belonged to his departed mother, it was an amazing home with beautiful paintings and very upper-class. I was delighted to even be sleeping at their couch which could transform into a bed. To be honest, it was one of the best accomodations I have had the whole trip. They had a splendid bathroom that even hotels couldn't come close to. I wish I could spend more days here but I only had one night so I was going to make the most out of it. After dropping my things, we went back to the car and started to head back downwards towards the beach. Dado beach had these amazing umbrella shaped wooden stands that really attracted my photography senses. The waves here were pretty fun, they were strong with its pushing and pulling so it made for an energetic time. The sunset today was another epic one, just day after day of fantastic views. Jacob and I talked about my theories that Israel could have really been the land of milk and honey as according to the sacred texts as compared to its neighbors, Jordan and Egypt, I felt that Israel had a lot going on in terms of bountiful nature. There were also a lot of jellyfish stinging us and after the sun had set, we went back to the apartment to take a shower.
I was finally able to meet Charlie face to face, he seemed like a genuinely nice guy. They were taking me to one of their favorite pizza places and on our way there, we saw some wild boars on the street which apparently was something normal since the town was built on the mountain. I started talking with Charlie about spirituality in general as well as Buddhism and Hinduism's fundamental beliefs while walking on the way to the pizza restaurant. We had to wait before getting seated and while waiting, the owner of another pizza parlor opposite to the one we wanted to go to started to talk to us. The disrepancy was quite obvious and a bit sad as one side had full seats while the other was absolutely empty. In the end, we went with our original choice and the pizza here was indeed delicious and very gourmet. We caught up on a lot of things, I found out they were traveling to Colombia as well and it was going to be Charlie's first time out of the country. Jacob was reminiscent of Japan, just like Rozi and Elad. It was really funny how I hosted both of them and they were also able to meet each other in Tokyo without me being a middleman. Once we got back to the apartment, I was so ready to hit the sack. The night was cool and it was perfectly peaceful.Read more
Akko
June 21, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Jacob left early the next morning for work so it was just me and Charlie in the morning. He made me a hearty breakfast of some oatmeal and lots of fruit. He also topped up my Rav-Kav for the routes I was going to be taking today. He was really into 3D printing and so he gave me the full breakdown on its history and mechanism as well as all these deep intricate details that was honestly too much for me to fit in my brain. We 3D printed Yoda with a Fat Buddha's body and while it was printing, we talked a bit more about Israel's geography, culture and Palestinian relations. I took a shower and after I was done, Yoddha was also fully printed out. It was really like magic seeing something conjured up in thin air. I had the honors of breaking it off and Charlie also gave it to me as a gift. With everything said and done, it was time for me to depart to Akko so I said my goodbye to Charlie and made my way to the bus stop. It was a fun few days couchsurfing around Israel but as I stepped out that door, I felt a newfound sense of freedom as now I am officially back to being an independent traveler. Today's journey will be a long one as I was going all the way up to Akko and then all the way down to Jerusalem. From the bus stop, I rode to the train station and from there I went up to Akko, and waited for another bus that took me to the old city.
Akko has a lot of historical significance especially since it contains the Undergroud City of the Crusaders. The crusaders of yore had always been of interest for me ever since playing the first Assassin's Creed game. My first stop was the gardens to leave my things just like how I did in Caesarea, expecting it to be left untouched as I went about my day. I chose to leave my clothes bag under a tree and sprawled on my swimming trunks that were still wet from yesterday's swim. I also left my hiking shoes and proceeded to go inside the old city like a naive fool. The city's vibe was surprisingly different, perhaps because the whole city was made to be a tourist spot. There were all sorts of artworks and craftswork plastered around the walls of the city which made every alley and street really unique and fun to get lost in. I would say the only thing constant with the few places I have been so far is the sound of the ocean waves. Here as well from the fortress walls lie the almost endless Mediterranean sea. I went to St. John's Church first hoping to get a good shot but my phone's zoom wasn't good enough. I was doing a lot of backtracking around the old town as well as it turns out most of the spots I wanted to visit required a ticket so I went back to where I first started and bought the ticket and also received map of Akko which a kind lady helped explain to me. I went into the Knight's Kingdom first which took me to the underground city of the Crusaders. It was actually a pretty long route but I was mostly happy because it was airconditioned. I had with me a self-guided audio tour and was simply following the numbers and listening to the information provided by the narrator about the historical significance of the places and how life was like back then. I somehow still got lost and felt like I had seen enough of the Knight's Hall so I found my way back and went to Hamam Al-basha, a Turkish bathhouse that functioned more as a museum. It was only a couple of rooms but it was preserved from back then and through a film, I learned about the history behind these bathhouses. Another similar one was the Ramhal Synagogue that had a small underground portion that also showed a short film. Last but not the least was the Templar's Tunnel which was actually one of the main spots of Akko. It was a long and narrow tunnel that stretched several meters long, there was a huge tour group blocking the way so I had to brush past a lot of people until I got to have the tunnel all to myself. I ended up at the other end of Akko once again and now making another effort to go back all the way to the entrance but not before dropping by one of the museums in the old Knight's Hall as I seem to have missed it. I was planning on dropping by one more museum which was past the garden where I left my things. I admit it has been on my mind for most of the day and I was nervous going back. As I approached the garden, my eyes started to scour for my things by the tree but it wasn't there. My heart sank a bit but still clinging to false hope that maybe I had left it behind the tree, I moved in closer. Alas, it was all gone, I tried to look around the garden some more but this time being completely alone carried a different tone. I went to the nearby policemen to ask for their help but they told me that this place wasn't their jurisdiction. The tourist police was also closed and so I went back again to the place where I bought my tickets to ask if they were able to help. The lady made some calls but to no end. At this point, I knew it was a lost cause but I went back again just to make sure and started to begin the process of acceptance. It sucked but it was truly on me to have done such an irresponsible thing. I made my way to the bus stop with a bit of a heavy heart and some worries about how to survive for the rest of the week but still remaining positive. I could always just buy some clothes and I still had a pair of pajamas left in my bag, some slippers and other important belongings like my passport, powerbank and charger.
As I got on the train back to Tel Aviv, I listened to some mantras to ground me and the Hare Krishna mantra has always helped do just that. I got to Jerusalem near sunset after a long trip that spanned a couple of hours but I was making huge progress and was almost near Abraham Hostel. It was surprisingly chilly in Jerusalem but the vibe here definitely was the most unique on being the holiest city in Israel. On the way to my hostel, I chanced upon some stalls selling really cheap clothes which helped put my mind at ease. I can always come here tomorrow if I needed to. I also passed by the Machane Yehudah market which Elisa actually recommended to me along with sabich to which I ended up getting deeper in the market for dinner. I wanted to buy some clothes there as well but I found it a bit too expensive and I could sense the shop owner wasn't too keen on my loitering around there either. I soon got to Abraham hostel and after the constant interruptions, I finally got to check-in. I had trouble unlocking my room but when I finally did, I found I had two room mates who introduced themselves as Fergus and Oscar. Fergus was a more elderly man who was originally from Hong Kong but now living in England while Oscar was a bigger guy from Sweden. I told them of my plight and they were both quite understanding and offered a lot of advice. I borrowed Oscar's toiletries and took a shower. Not much things left to do as I didn't have much stuff to settle down with so I took the time to get to know my room mates before heading to bed.Read more
Jerusalem II
June 22, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
In the wee hours through Fergus's snoring came in an Ultra Orthodox Jewish person, our fourth room mate but only for that night as he took off early in the morning as well. I woke up feeling a bit refreshed and ready to tackle the day despite the hardships of yesterday. I planned on buying some clothes to cover the remaining week but for now all I had on me were the same clothes from yesterday and a pair of slippers. There was going to be a lot of walking too so I made sure to prepare for the day by having a free hearty breakfast, courtesy of Abraham Hostel. It was a cozy place, there were a lot of people and they had a nice buffet going on. I helped myself to some cereal, fruits, hummus, and bread before hitting the streets of Jerusalem.
I walked towards the old city, too broke to take the tram. I enjoyed seeing the city while it was still in that morning calm state, the breeze still comfortably chilly and the sun not too hot. I passed by a pianist performing on the street and found my way to the New Gate. The Old City, the first place I came into contact with when I arrived in Israel. The circumstances felt a bit dire before but now it still seemed like I didn't make it unscathed nevertheless I was quite excited and stepping foot back into history felt a bit surreal. The Holy City was vastly empty on this side of town, walking along the ancient streets and seeing the historical architecture all around was an experience. I planned my route so that I would hit all the quarters of Jerusalem. There were four namely the Armenian, Jewish, Christian and Muslim quarter. A holy city shared by these four cultures as well as the three major Abrahamic religions, Islam, Christianity and Judaism, leaves no doubt in my mind on just how unique and important this city is. From the New Gate, I went to Jaffa Gate which was one of the eight gates of the Old City.
I found myself in the Armenian Quarter first, made more plain by the display of Armenian craftsmanship of painted plates and such around the various shops. I passed by the Tower of David which I tentatively skipped because I thought it required payment and the Cathedral of Saint James which was also closed so I walked along the pavements until finding a bench where I sat and reflected.
I proceeded to Zion Gate next which was part of the Jewish Quarter, I went out and followed some signs that led me to the place where the Last Supper was held, and near there was the Tomb of King David. I went inside to see that there were some Super Jews praying around the tomb. I creeped out and looked around some more before heading back inside and exploring more of the Jewish Quarter. I would say that this part of the Old City was most beautiful due to the flowers and it just looked a bit more taken care of. The vibes and the prices here were very different though I suppose it would be that way for each quarter. I found myself in the Jewish market of Cardo, I also tried to explore the Hurva Synagogue but they were charging money which was quite weird as the Christian churches were free for all, I guess it's the cultural difference. I still got to take a peek so I was satisfied.
The Christian Quarter was where I felt most at home as I had much exposure to the religion as a child. I went inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher which was the holiest site for the Christians as this was where Jesus Christ resurrected from the dead. The church was quite old but huge, it was different to the standard structure of churches and it was more akin to a castle with different sections scattered around and even an underground portion. Like a bonafide tourist, I fell in line and somehow blended with a Korean tour group and were let in a few at a time to see and pray to the special spot. I was quite satisfied after that. I checked out the Muristan Market as well as the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer which was unfortunately closed. I followed the path of Via Dolorosa which was said to be the part of the road taken by Jesus as he carried his cross.
I was now in the Muslim Quarter, ready to visit the holiest and most popular spots of Jerusalem. I wanted to visit the Little Western Wall first but was turned away two times as it was only for Muslims. Following the horde of pilgrims on the main road led me to the entrance to the Wailing Wall but first having to pass through several security checkpoints. I saw a group of Jewish people going around in a circle while holding hands which was probably a tradition for them, perhaps it was a Bar Mitzvah for the little ones? I didn't want to appropriate their culture by wearing a kipah so I opted to use my hat and check out the wall. This wall is pretty much what separates the Jewish people from the Temple Mount which forbids them entry as it is too holy for them. The wall is the closest thing they have to it so they end up congregating here to pray. I had a hard time finding the Temple Mount but after going around and asking for directions, I found the wooden bridge leading up to the sacred grounds. I was attracted to the nearby Al Aqsa Mosque but was quickly told off not to enter. I tried to take some photos of the Dome of the Rock with its iconic golden domed roof. I was lucky to be able to get amazing shots of it without any people as well as using the arches as an amazing frame. I went around it to get shots from various angles and using the various arches as a frame but was later told that we had to leave as they were going to be opening it for the Muslims and it was going to be closed to visitors now. I was more than happy with what I got and went back and found myself at a dead end so I went back to find another exit and found myself in the familiar streets of Via Dolorosa again. It was definitely time for lunch and I craved for something Israeli, I ordered some classic falafels and hummus from a Muslim restaurant that also had free wi-fi and took a while to rest my legs because the day was far from over.
The Mount of Olives was my next destination so I went out the Old City again via the Lion's Gate, passing by St. Anne's Church but not being able to enter it because it was closed for lunch time. On the way, I passed by a place proclaiming to be the birth place of the Virgin Mary so why not check it out. It had a tiny church and a tunnel that led further underground. I followed it and ended up in a small cavern with an altar. It was very cool and quiet here so I took the time to meditate and appreciate the calmness of the space. The Tomb of the Virgin, Garden of Gethsamane and a lot of others were also closed at this time but I made a mental note to come back and check them out after chilling at the summit. There was also a taxi driver who tried to get me to go touring with him an exorbitant prices but I was able to turn him down pretty well. So began my hike up the Mount of Olives, the inclines definitely tired me out but I kept going at it, passing by numerous people until I approached a Jewish cemetery overlooking Jerusalem, the Grave Light of Life. Rows upon rows of rectangular tombs cascading down made for an impressive sight. I happened upon the Tomb of the Prophets next and was kinda curious so I went inside which turned out to be private property and they were charging some money to see the tombs of Zechariah, Haggai and Malachi but I wasn't interested in paying so I went outside and took a break by the staircase, feeling the wind and getting cooled down. There was still a lot of time before the places started to open so I made sure to spend as much time as possible to relax. I went up and found a shop that offered rooftop views so I bought an ice cream and after a bit of haggling with the clerk, I got to rest at the roof for free. I greatly enjoyed the ice cream after a hike but still there was a lot of time to spare and time passed slowly. I could still see the golden dome of the Temple Mount from the top of the mountain. I got a bit impatient and went ahead to check out the Church of Ascension as there were some tour groups going in. There was an empty square with a tower in the middle, aside from that nothing to write home about. I made my down and got to visit the Pater Noster Church next, its church had an amazing windowpane with a view of Jerusalem. I wanted to visit the Mary Magdalene Church but it was closed today, but I finally got to visit the Tomb of the Virgin, it was a dark and solemn place, the devotees there were very emotional, a woman was in tears. Finishing the Mount of Olives, I made my way back in the Old City again, taking the Herod's Gate out this time to reach the Garden Tomb. This one is a bit of a controversial place as they claim that it was here Jesus was buried and resurrected instead of the Church of Ascension. They had free tours and made some pretty convincing biblical arguments, I quite enjoyed the whole experience. After a successful day of exploring Jerusalem, I made my way back to the hostel.
It was interesting to see Jerusalem in a new light, I felt like I understand and appreciate it even more now as I walked the streets outside the Old City. There were still a lot of Super Jews up and about, it really felt like they lived in another world despite being in the same city. I stopped by the old market again, finally purchasing a white long sleeved shirt and a sports short to be used the next day. I also bought some brownies and Korean cup noodles for a sad dinner. The noodles being too spicy for me, much regrets were made with that purchase. Fergus was all the way out in Jordan today visiting Petra so I was able to bond with Oscar a bit. Having a history teacher for a teacher was such a huge win for me, most of the information I got about Israel came from him to be honest, which made exploring it even much more fun. I slept earlier than usual today since I was waking up around 2:00AM later to catch the day tour.Read more
Masada
June 23, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Waking up before the sun had even risen after a long day of walking around Jerusalem was bound to tire the average person out, but not me! As soon as my alarm rang, I collected my things and made my way out. The streets this time were totally abandoned and it was super cold. I hurried and took broad steps to our meeting place at a nearby hotel which was still a 15 minute walk. It seemed like it was the right place when I saw a group of other people hudled up near the entrance. My eyes were initially drawn to a guy and gal of African descent who will end up becoming my good friends later on in the day. We were all herded into a nice van with comfy seats and wi-fi and were off to Masada. I had no idea what this place was about really except that it offered a sunrise hike which seemed like a cool experience. Fergus had also did this hike and said it was worth it though he didn't make it in time for the sunrise. I was able to get some rest on the way to Masada but soon we were out of the van and into the dark desert and getting ready to buy tickets.
The way up was a winding road known as the Snake Path which was really made evident when I saw the map on how it zigzagged all the way to the summit. I was ready and determined to make it up before the sunrise so I quickly set off on a brisk pace even when I only had my slippers with me. With just the flash on my phone to light the way and the darkness giving me comfort that I still had time, it was a quiet and meditative hike. I led by a huge margin, only followed by another person behind me who I viewed as a competitor to keep me on my toes and moving forward. My pace was really good and I had time to catch a breath or two but after a while the fatigue started to catch up to me as I realized I didn't have breakfast and I still only had these brownies to fill me up which wasn't exactly the healthiest way to tackle a hike especially under these circumstances. Still, there was only one way this would end so I kept pushing forward. Near the summit, I was overtaken by a few hikers as it was definitely hitting me hard already but with just a couple of more bursts of energy, I made it to the top just before the sun peeked over the horizon though throughout the hike, the path slowly became more and more illuminated but still it wasn't time for sunrise yet. I moved to find my place to watch the sunrise and settled on one of the walls of the ruins. Sunrises are pretty rare for me so I would say it was really beautiful, the hues were really nice and the views of the Judean desert made for an even more amazing vista. There was a Jewish family who took the best spot in my opinion but I was able to capture a nice photo of the father while he was praying. I was still eating some brownies to replenish my energy but I feel like it was just making things worse for myself. There were some tour groups that I eavesdropped on to try and get some more information about the place and I learned that Masada used to be a fortress and the defenders here committed mass suicide so as not to get captured by the enemy. I also went to use the bathroom for a number 2 and ran into the black guy from earlier. We exchanged some brief pleasantries while I went about my business, when I went out he was still there so we started talking. I told him I came from Japan to which he said it was one of his favorite countries and that he has been there before. He introduced himself as Jeremie from Paris but originally from Congo. I met Malaika soon after, she was also from Paris and of Congo origin. I hit it off pretty well with them and we talked on the way down. I was glad to make some friends and now we were off to the next destination for the day, Ein Gedi.Read more
Ein Gedi
June 23, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Ein Gedi Natural Reserve was an oasis in the middle of the desert, it had flowing streams and the end destination was David Waterfall. We had to do a trek still but it was much more manageable and easier compared to Masada. There were streams I could soak my feet into and there was much greenery around the trail. We saw some cute looking critters such at the ibex and the hyrax. We passed through some caverns, natural bridges and smaller waterfalls until David's. Seemed like we were first so we had ample time to relax and enjoy the view, there was even a rainbow at the bottom. The hike back was still chill and we were somehow still earlier than everyone still so we got the chance to talk to our guide and learned a bit more about Ein Gedi, Jerusalem and even the Muslim naming culture as well as Palestine. Turns out that it's pretty common to name the first child after the father and the father before him to keep the legacy going. I was still eating my brownies at this point which funnily enough was quickly becoming less and less appetizing after each piece. We soon found ourselves back at the van heading to the Dead Sea.Read more
Jerusalem III
June 24, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
The last day in Jerusalem was supposed to be a solemn one, I planned on doing nothing but stay inside the hostel room until night time when the sherut would pick me up to go to the airport. I ate breakfast and was approached by Fergus as he was asking me about how to get to Tel Aviv. It was Shabbat again and that meant public transportation was going to be nil later in the day. I advised him to visit the old city of Jaffa and taught him how to get there and come back via sherut. He made some kind comments about how he thinks I'm a very kind person which made me feel happy though I never did do any kindness to him whatsoever. I went back to our room and took a shower and just relaxed a bit, I was talking with Oscar and asking about his plans for the day. Seemed like he was going back to the Old City again. I really didn't have anything better to do and I asked him if I could tag along. Little did we know, we were in for an adventure of a lifetime today.
The walk towards the Old City was always a pleasant one as we slowly transitioned from an advanced civilization back to the ancient periods as we entered Jaffa Gate. Oscar praised me for my ingenious usage of the umbrella, it really did help me survive getting heat stroke in the Middle East. We passed by the Tower of David, one that I had ignored previously on the first day because I thought it required payment but it was actually free so Oscar and I went inside to check the place out. I can't believe they were hiding ruins this huge back here. It took a lot of time for us to go around the first floor only to find out there were still hidden corridors, an underground portion and several floors above leading to the roof. The views of Jerusalem were exquisite. We got lost halfway and had to find our way back to where we started while avoiding the blistering heat. Fresh and free water was a great find along the way. I was also able to visit the now open, Cathedral of Saint James in the Armenian Quarter. This place was where James the Less was buried, one of the 12 Apostles of Jesus. I was already quite satisfied with how the day was going because we managed to hit several places that I wouldn't have otherwise have been able to see had I just stayed back.
We went to the Jewish quarter where we had brunch, the usual falafels and what not. I had the idea to go visit the City of David which I remember reading about. We went out via the Dung Gate to get our tickets. I was also thinking of visiting this other ruined area near the Temple Mount but we opted not to as it didn't look like it was worth it. Oscar and I went to the ticket booth which was gratiously air-conditioned.
The main sight to see in the City of David was the Hezekiah's Tunnel which was this super long and narrow man-made cavern that ran for more than 500 meters with fresh spring water that could go all the way up to your knees. I was quite keen on going for it while Oscar was having second thoughts about his shoes and just going barefoot which wasn't advised by the staff. In the end, I managed to convince him to just go for it and off we went downwards first and then into the void. It was dark and only the sound of rushing water flooded the caverns. We had our phone's flash on as we waddled through the tight spaces. The cold water felt really good and the air smelled pleasantly fragrant perhaps because it was natural spring water. There were times where I would just take off my slippers since it was easier and times where I would put them back on because the ground was quite rough as well. Oscar on the other hand was having the time of his life, he kept exclaiming how this was the best part of his whole trip in Israel. I found myself agreeing with him as the experience was super exhilirating and unique. I was definitely laughing and smiling all the way, laughing at Oscar as well as he was often hitting his head and suffering a lot by hunching all the way since he was so tall. This went on endlessly, we somehow lost track of how long we have been walking and the only thing that was changing was the water level, it was already past my knees at one point. There wasn't anyone else as well so doing it alone would have been very nerve-wracking for sure. The experience would have been entirely different altogether. It was great Oscar didn't back out and went with me. After for what seemed like forever, we soon saw light at the end of the tunnel. It led us to a clearing to the Siloan Pond. There was a family gathering water there and some Ultra Orthodox Jews who were waiting for them to go away so that they could bathe in the water. They told us that the water could purify them before they set foot into holy ground.
Our journey wasn't over yet as we had to go through a different ancient route in the form of another tunnel heading back to Jerusalem. This time it wasn't submerged in water so it was much easier albeit less fun. It was still cooler than walking above under the sun. This tunnel was much greener with all the moss but also not too natural anymore as there were a lot of man-made structures within. We found ourselves back near the Old City as we exited the tunnel and made our way back in, ready to go back to the hostel for a bit of a rest.
On our way back, the effects of Shabbat was soon becoming apparent as shops left and right started to close even before the Shabbat alarm rang. I managed to snag a burger for lunch and ate it back at the hostel. Relaxing a bit with Oscar, Fergus soon joined us. I was quite surprised to see him back early as I thought he wanted to see the sunset back in Tel Aviv. Turns out he finished Old Jaffa quite early and found his way back here to avoid the Shabbat complications. Instead, he wanted to challenge himself in going up the Mount of Olives to take a photo of the sunset from there instead. Well, we cheered him on and helped him with the routes but off he went. Oscar and I continued to just talk about various stuff, his life in Sweden, the town he lived in, his work as a teacher and he shared with me a lot of interesting tidbits about Israeli culture and history as well. We talked about spirituality, religion, history and politics of other countries amongst other things.
For dinner, we once again made our way back to the Old City, this time at the Muslim Quarter since they were the only ones left unaffected by Shabbat. We took a peek inside Damascus Gate to see if there would be any interesting activities happening in the Muslim Quarter in the Old City but seems like most of the shops here were closed as well. We had an amazing dinner at the King of Shawarma, the title rightly so as I couldn't even finish the blasted thing. It was packed and full of so much food, I tried giving as much as I can to the cats hanging around. They weren't so keen on eating it as well but it looked like beggars can't be choosers as they still swallowed it with a grimace. Oscar and I shared a lot of laughs and stories while eating and on the way back. This time it truly was the end of the journey in Israel. I took another shower and just hanged about on my now nude mattress until one of the staff called me that my sherut was now there to pick me up. I said my goodbyes to Oscar and Fergus and set off for the airport.
We arrived early and my flight was even much later so after going through all the usual airport procedures, I found a place for me to sleep until my flight which ended up being delayed by more than an hour. I was already a bit anxious as I know this means I'd miss my other flights as well. I played the Hare Krishna mantra to calm me down but in the end, I really did miss my flight and was stuck in Athens airport for a long time with no one there to help me. It was a horrible experience and I knew I only had to rely on myself. There was a girl named Nina there from Vietnam who became my friend for a shortwhile. We were both stranded and she shared with me some of her food while we consoled each other. She went ahead before me and I decided to bite the bullet and just buy a new flight via Emirates. I was able to go inside the departure terminal after that and from there to Dubai back to Tokyo. I would say the tickets were well worth it as the airplane was an amazing experience on its own and it made for a very pleasant journey back to Japan.Read more
