Going home

marts - december 2019
An epic journey from Australia to Germany by car Læs mere

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  • 116fodaftryk
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  • 185kan lide
  • Eagle hunters in Western Mongolia

    12. juli 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Originally, we wanted to drive to a glacier lake today (Tolbo Nuur). 10kms in front of our destination, we drive through such a beautiful mountainous area that we can't resist. We change plans despite the freezing temperatures, take a turn and drive down to a little stream in a lush green valley.
    We turn Hans into our living room and just when we start cooking dinner, two locals come by on their motorbike. Super friendly and enthusiastic, they start a conversation with us in broken English. We quickly learn that they're not so much interested in our story, but instead want to show us their eagle.
    I had read about the eagle hunters in Western Mongolia, but apparently you usually only get to see them in winter. Hence I had dismissed this opportunity of getting to know this tradition but our two new friends are about to prove me wrong.
    They quickly understand that we can't go anywhere at the moment as the car is set up and dinner is cooking. So they simply confirm that we stay where we are and tell us that they will go and get the eagle, come back and then we'll take pictures. Transporting an eagle on the motorbike? That surely can't be possible. However, we nod our heads and tell them we'll wait.
    20minutes of wondering if they'll actually come back and pondering about the reason for this generosity (We know that Mongolians are super welcoming and friendly, but this seems like a lot of effort), we've got visitors again.
    The two boys have returned, having an eagle and a traditional costume with them.
    Tom is quickly wrapped in the blue and golden traditional gown, the eagle is unwrapped and the photoshoot begins. Both Tom and I are allowed to hold the eagle with the special glove to protect our arms from the eagle's claws. We take pictures in turns, with and without the boys and in the end they even lift the bird on our bullbar, making Hans look just a bit more majestic than he already does.
    Wow! The eagle is really impressive. Such a beautiful bird.
    We had been contemplating what we could offer the boys while they were gone and hence ask them if they'd like tea or coffee or anything else. We'll, surprise surprise. The older one asks for a phone and explains a photo is 30000 MNT (about 10€). Seems like they're used to tourists in that area... Unfortunately, this hadn't been communicated to us beforehand and we don't have that much money with us. So we give them what we have. To make up for the difference, the eagle hunter asks for candy, chocolate or clothes but apart from a chocolate bar we have to disappoint again. We simply don't carry excess that we could readily give away. An overlanding journey is well planned. They seem to be ok with what they got, we exchange fb details and then they prepare to leave.
    I'm curiously watching how the eagle is wrapped in an old jacket, secured with a leash, wrapped around its body in a special way and in the end carried like a baby on the back of the bike. These guys definitely know what they're doing.
    We wave them good-bye and return to Hans.
    Dinner is hopelessly overcooked by now and we're still a bit stunned about what just happened.
    Happy to have had the opportunity but a bit disappointed that is was a paid service, which we hadn't been aware of. Anyhow, I think these boys deserved the money for all their efforts and I hope they're not too disappointed by the amount.
    After all, it's not every day you're visited by an eagle on your car in a valley by a stream.
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  • Random observations in Mongolia

    16. juli 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    As we're about to leave the country, here are some random observations made on the way.

    Asphalted roads are often worse than driving off-road due to the potholes.
    If new, they can be super smooth as well though. You will only know once you drive on them.

    Flock of sheep, goats, cows, camels, yaks or horses are either roaming around alone or guarded by horse or motorbike. Very picturesque.

    Lots of people ride horses without a saddle.

    Traffic in Ulaan-Baatar is crazy. The city was built for 600000 people but now 1.3mio live there. Traffic is the worst reflection of this growth.

    People in UB get around with their own car, buses and most of them simply seem to hitchhike. You stand on the side of the road, hold your arm out and people stop. You then pay 1000MNT/km. Does this add to the traffic? Probably.

    Can you imagine not having running water in your house? Here water is distributed by water houses spread throughout villages and towns. It is usually collected in larger canisters and transported on wheels, in cars or simply carried back. Opening times vary, hence patience is required.

    We haven't really understood how ger families deal with their toilet business. In smaller villages we've come across "out houses" (wooden shacks with a hole in the ground) in the middle of streets, but no clue how it works in bigger towns or in the remote areas.

    Money is always handed over with two hands.

    The left side of a ger is the "visitor's side" while the right side is for the family.

    Mongolian men often sunbath their bellies. Seems fairly random, they're simply standing around and lift their shirts.

    Cheese is made in a fashion that doesn't require refrigeration. This way it can be carried around while travelling. We saw it on car dashboards and appearing out of trouser pockets. Once you're used to the rather raw and wild taste, it's a good match to homebaked bread.

    Mongolian supermarkets often offer products that were packaged in Germany (Gut&günstig Müsli and peanuts, Honey and much much more).

    In the Altai Mountains, we experienced four seasons in one day.

    There are hardly any trees. Whenever we saw some, we were super happy.

    Religious statues and stupas are very common. As are deceivingly real looking animal figures in the mountains.

    Mongolians seem to be very fond of music. Everyone who had a look at our car interior excitedly pointed to the guitar. Too bad it's not easy to take it out.

    We once parked next to a quiet road in a valley. Resulted in visitors at 1.30am, knocking to say hello. People usually were very interested but not intrusive.

    A map of the world helped us a lot explaining what we were up to. This way, we at least had something to "talk" about as we haven't managed to pick up enough of the Mongolian language to have a real conversation unfortunately.

    Paying by card is common even in small village shops. Don't rely on it completely though. It's always wise to have a bit of cash with you.

    Apart from the usual lemon option, there is "mango and peach" and "apple and cranberry" radler. Sweet but delicious!

    Cigarettes are crazily cheap. Less than 1€ for a packet!

    Supposedly an empty bottle of vodka is thrown as far as one can. Results in empty bottles everywhere, which can turn into a traffic hazard. Something to watch out for.

    Apart from the bottles, there are also bones everywhere. I've been equally fascinated and grossed out by jaws and hooves in particular.

    Mongolians are very extroverted. According to our experience, the remoteness of the country causes everybody to be super friendly, welcoming and helpful in any situation. Don't be shy to ask for help. It's common and readily provided. We even helped out a few times ourselves!

    This country has so much to offer, especially changing landscapes and interesting people. Take your time to explore it, it's worth it!
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  • What we ate in Mongolia

    17. juli 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Honestly, I was a bit worried about food in Mongolia. Many travellers report that they had difficulties in finding supplies and soon got fed up by the meat and dairy heavy options available in restaurants.
    After a bit more than 3 weeks, I can happily say that all our worries were unnecessary.
    As we're usually following a rather vegetarian diet, we simply cooked ourselves most of the times.
    Fresh fruit and veggies are indeed hard to come by (it seems like only carrots, cabbage, onions and potatoes are being grown here, everything else needs to be imported), hence we used canned and pickled vegetables that we found even in smaller towns and villages along the way.
    Mini and super markets always offered a few canned veggies, noodles, rice, tomato sauce, vodka, beer, juice, sweets (lots of candy!), tea and other random goods. Definitely enough to put together a decent meal. I bought bananas once and apples twice and every now and then got a few onions, carrots and potatoes. In one store I also found fresh ginger that I couldn't resist. If you wanted to, you could stock up on fresh goods much more often though!
    The few times we ate out, we tried traditional Mongolian dishes like Khuushuur (fried pancakes filled with meat, but I even got a vegetarian one with potatoes and capsicum in it once), Buuz (steamed dumplings filled with meat, dripping with oil when you bite in them) and stir fried noodles with mutton pieces. I actually grew fond of Khuushuur, though it might not be your healthiest food.
    Fresh milk and the local cheese might take some more time to get used to, we mostly avoided it. Tom used pasteurized milk as usual and I used the plant based options I stocked up on in Russia. However, we did taste everything offered to us and Tom ate the cheese with bread (I couldn't handle much more than a small piece).
    In cold eveings in the mountains we discovered the local vodka goes well with our Tasmanian blackcurrant syrup and hot water. Warms hands and bellies equally.
    And of course, Tom still kept on baking bread. With hardly any firewood and crappy coal, it was quite a hazzle at times, but the outcome was always super rewarding. Both no-knead and sourdough bread featured rye or whole-wheat flour and kept us going throughout the day as welcome meal.
    All in all a delicious part of the journey.
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  • Western Mongolia to Russia border

    18. juli 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Have you ever heard of closed borders apart from when there is a emergency warning?
    Well, Mongolia closes its borders for their National celebration of "Nadaam". A concept very foreign to us and definitely one you need to know about, particularly in view of your permitted staytime. While Nadaam officially takes place from 11th-13th July, it is celebrated around those dates in all parts of the country (we came across celebrations as early as the 4th). As unpredictable as these festivities seemed to us, the border times weren't. We quickly found out that the border between Tsagaanuur and Tashanta in the Western part of Mongolia would reopen on the 16th of July. We planned to be in Tschemal, 488kms up North, by the 19th and our Visa were still valid for another week. Hence everything was going to work just nicely.
    We wanted to avoid the rush on the 16th (reopening day), therefore planned to drive to the border from Ölgii either late that day and sleep at the border or on the 17th. Water had been filled up, stocks should last, we had read a fair bit about the border procedures, we should be good to go.
    But then we found out that the Kudlik family, our friends and fellow overlanders, where in Ölgii, too, and hence decided to postpone the plan for a day.
    So today, we get up after a wonderful evening of chatting, laughing and drinking great wine (thank you Zuzka&Martin), pack up and make our way to the border. We arrive at 12pm, being the 26th car in line. The border post seems small, it feels like we just stopped in a little village anywhere in Mongolia. Nothing is moving, we probably got here just in time for the lunch break (yes, the border closes for that, too.). We kill the time by having a quick lunch ourselves, listening to an audiobook, taking pictures (Jo) and reading (Tom). We also meet Lena, a very nice Russian girl, who is returning from a two week holiday with her husband. Three hours later, things start moving. With the help of a Mongolian with perfect English who drives the car in front of us, Tom masters the first check to enter and within another hour we've passed passport and customs control without any issues.
    Now we need to drive through approx. 30km of no-man's-land before reaching the Russian border post. I'm wondering who the animals along the side of the road belong to and if I'll ever see the cute Earth squirrels again.
    At 4.45pm we enter the Russian border post. All officers seem to be used to overlanders as we're repeatedly asked about the route we'll travel and everyone nods their head understandingly. We park the car, pass the passport control again without any issues, have the car checked quickly including running our backpacks through a scanner and then it's time to get the temporary import documents for the car. This is the only part that's slightly confusing, but a friendly young officer leads Tom through the documents. While I'm chatting to two motorcyclists from Munich (check reissaus.com), everything is done and we're officially in Russia just after 6pm ( it might have helped that everyone simply wanted to go home as the border closes at 6pm).
    All in all it took 6hrs, every check and control was super pleasant and easy and we were super happy.
    No long interrogation, sleeping in no-man's-land nor problems with documents. Let's hope every crossing will be this smooth.
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  • AaPPLE Camp in Chemal

    20. juli 2019, Rusland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After beautiful Mongolia we were looking forward to our second Workaway experience after leaving Brisbane. A few months ago we were contacted by lovely Polina, a member of the AaPPLE language school team in Barnaul who invited us to take part in one of their youth camps in Chemal and we couldn’t resist.
    The camp took place in a sports hotel with amazing facilities right next to the breathtaking Katun river. We were greeted by 100 enthusiastic kids and just as enthusiastic staff. Frankly, after weeks of solitude it was a bit overwhelming at first but this feeling subsided as soon as the fun activities with the kids started!
    Sports, singing, dancing, English classes, arts and crafts, you name it! A full schedule from 10am to 11:00pm kept both kids and ourselves busy. We even got the chance to give a presentation about Australia and teach English and German to the (mostly) super well behaved and interested kids.
    In addition to getting to know the main staff we also feel very lucky to have met the other volunteers from around the globe (Columbia, Belgium, France, Spain, Ireland, Egypt and Indonesia). It was great to exchange experiences over breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner and second dinner 😁 (Despite of my love for cooking, I (Jo) was super happy not to have to think about food for a while. I even got vegetarian meals (fish is considered vegetarian). The only thing i couldn’t get used to was the dollop of butter on our morning porridge...)! What an inspiring bunch of Globetrotters.
    However, the stars of the show were the kids. Literally and figuratively. The first day without any introduction 12 year old Leonid approached me to ask who I was and where I’m from in perfect English! Thinking back to 12 old me, I neither would have had the courage nor the language skills. We got to spend time with an amazingly bright and extroverted group of 7 to 17 year olds, learn about their regular routine, play fun games, exchange language skills and move much more than during our driving days.
    These 8 days ended up being a very rewarding and super fun experience we’ll never forget.

    Thanks AaPPLE camp for the opportunity!
    (Tom)
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  • Barnaul - getting things done

    27. juli 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Yesterday we arrived in Barnaul and we've been super efficient since then.
    Knowing we have limited time (we want to get to Kyrgistan as quickly as we can), we contacted a fellow traveller (Nikos Knudsen) who lives in Barnaul well in advance. Reason being: we REALLY needed some new tyres. Instead of just telling us who to contact, Nikos researched, ordered and stored the tyres for us! How sweet is that?!
    So on arriving in the city, we simply drove up to his apartment where we were greeted by Kristina, his wife. She made coffee for us and offered us some fruit, we picked up the tyres and then even drove to the garage together to arrange the tyre change.
    We can't thank the two of you enough and are only sad about the fact we couldn't meet Nikos personally as he was travelling!
    Due to these pre-arrangements we then even had time to drive to the Toyota dealer who serviced and checked Hans then and there (while we were enjoying their massage chair). Hans is in great shape again. We still need to get a few smaller repairs done but as we want to travel further, we'll probably do that in Almaty.
    Afterwards we drove to the city beach and enjoyed the beautiful view towards Barnaul over the river before falling asleep. What a beautiful feeling to be on the road again!
    Today it's all about stocking up, filling up water and preparing for yet another border crossing. Kazakhstan tomorrow! (Hopefully ;-)).
    While we didn't see much of Barnaul, the people we met made it feel like a super nice place. People were waving to us on the street, a few even asked us from their car about our journey. We felt welcomed and are super happy how quickly we got everything done.
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  • Random Russia - Part 2

    27. juli 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Russia is such a vast and diverse country that you actually can't talk about "things I've seen in Russia". Our experiences in the Far East of Russia and in Southern Siberia were sometimes quite different. Especially in terms of the landscape. So I'm dividing this post according to regions.

    In general:
    You can't buy alcohol before 11am.

    Churches are as beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside. Women can borrow scarfs to cover their hair and sometimes wrap around skirts. It stood out to me that there are hardly any possibilities to sit down. Seems like the Russians worship standing up.

    Far East:
    I've seen more cowboys (men herding cows on horses) in Russia than in Australia.

    Cows and at times horses mostly roam around freely, no fences at all. Often they are unaccompanied. Free-range at its best.

    We've also seen herds of wild horses. Mongolia is close!

    Southern Siberia:
    If you want to have your car cleaned, you drive to a shop where they do everything by hand. Super detailed! (We only got the car cleaned from the outside, but we saw many cars shining bright as new even inside).

    People sell dried birch branches everywhere on the side of the street. These are used in the local saunas (banyas) to increase the effect.

    On the way from Barnaul to the Kazakh border we saw many beautiful settlements that had a gated entry from the main road. Unfortunately we don't know if anyone could enter or only the habitants. Houses of all shapes and colours, surrounded by what looked like super productive gardens. A dream!

    There are a high number of flowering fields. Some look like they are cover crops, but there was also a white flower that I really need to find out what it'll be used for. Often fields are lined with a flowering greenstrip, amazing for insects and local wildlife.
    It was also very beautiful to see if a field had been a sunflower field during the previous season. The bright yellow flowers surrounded the wheat or whatever else was growing and every now and then a single one would have popped up in between the new crop. Mother nature has her own way of creating beauty!

    Super duper friendly people all around! Don't believe US movies depicting the Russians as the villains all the time. We were welcomed warmly, invited for a random BBQ in the middle of nowhere and had people waving and greeting us from their cars in Barnaul. So so lovely!
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