• Troopy on Tour
  • Johanna Buss
Mac – Dis 2019

Going home

An epic journey from Australia to Germany by car Baca lagi
  • Nasi Lemak

    Next stop: Kuala Lumpur

    10 Mei 2019, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    4.20am Friday morning. Our plane touches the ground and we're getting ready for a 10h quick stop to explore Kuala Lumpur. A HUGE difference in price (and the curiosity on Jo's part to always take the chance to go and explore when it presents itself) made us choose an AirAsia flight to our final destination Japan, including this layover. Be aware of hidden costs when making this choice: in true low cost carrier fashion, you have to pay extra for your bags, your meals and even water! It still ended up much cheaper though.
    AirAsia planes seem to be designed for as small people as I am. If even I complain about space issues, it's real. However, as it was a night flight, both Tom and I slept through most of it and arrived in Kuala Lumpur fairly well rested.
    I am still impressed about how easy it is to enter certain countries. With no visa needed, we simply walked through immigration and entered Malaysia at about 4.45am. I had been a bit negligent about the fact that internet wouldn't be as readily available and the fidgeting with the open wifi cost us the first skybus (yes, I hadn't saved a screenshot of our tickets... duh). Everything else went as planned though. The 5.20am bus took us to the city, that still lay dormant in the dark. Early morning hours, especially during Ramadan, didn't seem to be the most active ones in Kuala Lumpur. Initially I had wanted to get to the park, but as we wouldn't have seen anything yet, we headed for coffee first. Turns out, the breaking daylight was needed to navigate our way through all the highways anyways. We finally crossed a few, walked through a hotel lobby and secretly followed fellow pedestrians to get to the part of city that was easier to walk around. I had booked a 90min tour with "withlocals", a platform connecting travellers and local travel guides, that was starting at 8am. Thanks to offline maps, we made it well in time and started to get a feel for the interesting city on the way. Old and new, rich and poor, clean and dirty, traffic and people sleeping by the road. The contrasts were later described by Siddoz as diversity, and I think that might be a better term. KL's history made it a multi ethnic city. 68%Muslims, 23%Chinese, 7%Indians and 2% who knows what all live together, creating a melting pot that is hard to describe as anything other than diverse.
    Despite the fact that it is Ramadan, Siddoz, our guide, took us out for a traditional breakfast: Nasi Lemak (fried chicken, boiled egg, anchovies and peanuts served with cucumber, rice and a spicy sambal) and cham, a local drink that mixes tea and coffee with condensed milk. I was amazed that the drinks all came in a takeaway option: a plastic bag and a straw. Siddoz pointed out that plastic bans are becoming more and more common though and that the government supported women in leading positions. His way of saying that Malaysia is a forward thinking and modern country. Palm oil, on the other hand, is regarded as a major economy boost, creating jobs and opportunities and there is little discussion about its downfalls locally. How do you approach such topics? When talking about vegetarianism, Siddoz simply mentioned that Malaysian cuisine is mainly carnivorous and vegetarian dishes are rather found in Indian and Chinese restaurants. China town seemed to be full of meat still. Our casual stroll through the market, where animals were killed to order, simply regarded as goods, not so much as living beings, made me question the meat eating once again. While both Tom and I follow a rather vegetarian diet, trying to eat meat only when we know it's been ethical sourced, I haven't turned vegetarian or vegan completely, mostly because I don't want to take away the joy of trying local dishes. But I need to be stricter after all...
    Apart from food, Siddoz introduced us to a few historic buildings and temples in the area and filled the 90min with many interesting historic facts. A really good introduction in such a short time. As the tour progressed so did the heat and humidity (it stays 31-34 degrees year around!) By the end, time didn't allow for much more than to head back to the station. Navigating the confusing streets and crazy traffic once again, we made it back. Pedestrians are really a rare sights outside of the old part of the city opposed to cars as well as bikes jumping red lights, going the wrong way or driving on the rare pedestrian walks even in front of police stations. Oh craziness, I've missed you.
    Baca lagi

  • These vending machines are everywhereNo clue what it's called, but it was yummyA weddingShiba InuSandwich sushi

    Tokyo - first impressions

    11 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Quick and dirty recap after the first day:
    - the trains on Friday night are full of super drunk Japanese, most of them in suits (Tom: I reckon after work drinking is popular in Tokyo... But not everybody was wasted!)
    - it's been ages that I've seen so much plastic. It's EVERYWHERE
    - recycling is a must and well spread
    - ordering food can be surprising even if there is an English menu
    - vegans with a soy allergy: good luck finding food...
    - there is few signs of public affection but young couples still cuddle
    - public transport is quite well organized, cheap and fairly easy to understand
    - I forgot how disgusting it is when people smoke inside of bars. On the other hand, there is smoking areas in public spaces. It's not just allowed anywhere outside
    - people like riding their bicycles
    - today seemed to be a popular day for weddings
    - Tokyo has its crazy corners (Harajuku for example) but just the next road can offer some peace and quiet
    - many people speak at least a few words German and will try it on you
    - a few words of Japanese aren't enough to have conversations, but they might trick your conversation partner into thinking you can communicate
    - most Japanese are super friendly, helpful and get excited about foreigners that desperately try to recall their few words of Japanese. It will earn you a lot of smiles
    - Shiba Inus (famous Japanese dog) are much smaller than I thought
    - Japanese sit down to eat and drink, even if it means blocking the way
    - Sourdough bakeries are super popular here as well
    - even sandwiches come in the form of sushi
    - there is good coffee
    - green tea leave liquor and soda might be my new favorite drink
    - Japanese tapas (such as minced tuna with avocado on garlic bread) is a thing
    - you can drink tap water in Japan
    - there is wifi everywhere
    - most places don't offer you to pay by credit card. Make sure you've got cash
    - be aware of sensory overload. Little doses of city paired with staying in a quiet park corner are advisable
    - Koenji is a neighbourhood worth to explore and I can't wait to see more of it
    Baca lagi

  • Would you dress up your dog?Amawori tastingKerryEdo marionetteMagical showIzakaya

    Kagurazaka street festival

    12 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This Mother's day Tokyo has plenty to offer. Tom and I made a rough plan yesterday, start the day with coffee and cereal in the apartment (yes I know, boring western style but you know...) and head off to Yoyogi park. Year's ago Tom had seen many costumed Japanese hanging out here, today we are walking past plenty of sports groups, photographers, people admiring flowers and, of course, the dog park. I'm not sure I approve of dressing up your dog but it didn't seem to stop them from playing.
    The weather is beautiful and we're lucky enough to find a Thai festival on the other side of the park. Lots of food to try and buy and a few souvenir stalls try to promote Thailand as a travel destination. It's crowded and loud and FUN. Tom even wins two beers by joining a screaming competition (yes, he loves Chang ;-)) and we try some 'amawori' a traditionally brewed rice spirit. The only downfall: everything is served in plastic cups. Would you refuse to take part and taste? We discuss and don't this time, however, we have cutlery with us from now on and will be trying harder to avoid plastic consumption. Even if it is hard.
    Then it's time to head to our main destination for the day: Kagurazaka. It was once the Geisha district just in front of the Imperial palace and many people stopped here before entering. These insights are shared by Kerry, our meet up group leader. I found the event a day before and thought it would be fun to join a group to get more information about the historic street festival that's going on here. With a group of 40+ internationals (including a few Tokyoites) it is hard to get much more information across, but it is fun to get to know a few people and learn about life in Tokyo. Out of the many performances we see, the Edo marionette one amazes me the most. So much skill!
    Once the tour finishes, we say our good-byes but decide to stay back for the last performance a little later. Beautifully set to the background of the Akagi-jinja shrine, we watch a magician and three guys playing weird metal flutes. Unfortunately, we hardly understand a word, but we get the jist.
    Yosho, a girl from the meetup group, suggested a place for dinner earlier and so Tom and I, hungry nd a bit cold by now, head to our first Izakaya experience. An Izakaya is a Japanese pub, its name "i" (sit) and "sakaya"(sake) basically meaning a place to sit and drink sake. They always offer good quality food as well as it's unusual to just drink in Japan. You usually pair your drinks with at least a little something.
    Once again, we are overwhelmed even though we have an English menu in front of us. What to order? What goes with what? In the end, we settle for a plate of sashimi, udon noodles and pickled Japanese vegetables. Delicious and easy to eat, we happily enjoy our meal and Tom tries two sake as well. The best about our dinner is the fact that we can watch the kitchen and their interesting methods though. Boiling coal in a pot before it goes on the grill, grilling things on wooden spoons wrapped in tin foil that are held towards burning sticks, garnishing a salad with chopped tomatoes that are placed on the plate with chopsticks... all super interesting.
    And with our heads full of these impressions, we finally go home, exhausted, yet happy, and are already looking forward to another day of exploration.
    Baca lagi

  • Garden patch
    delayed train infoToilet remoteRent spacesTiny bar2am = 26:00

    Random facts that made us wonder

    14 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Lots of things are quite interesting in Tokyo. Here is a few that stood out to us:

    The reason why people wear face masks is not quite clear. Either they're sick or trying to avoid to be. It's a very common sight and there are lots of different models.

    In Tokyo, you can rent a space to park your bicycle.

    I'm having a very hard time not to look into people's eyes. It's a natural mean of communication for me but the Japanese seem to get along quite well without it.

    Many places have a weird way to write 1am, 2am etc.. Here it's 25:00, 26:00...

    Toilets do play water sounds and have different ways to spray your private parts. Volume and pressure can be adjusted (I had read about this and still can't believe it's true). Some.even have the option to wash your hands on top of the water tank.

    You can rent lounge spaces to hang out in Shibuya by the hour. Probably lucrative due to the tiny spaces people live in.

    If a train is delayed, the cause and all other information is displayed on trains close by as well.

    There is an abundance of bushes that smell like sperm. Jasmine maybe? Haven't figured it out yet.

    A lot of things are tiny: streets, bars, cars, gardens, spaces and even dogs.

    People seem to like flowers. Many many houses have a garden patch, vertical gardens or at least a few flower pots outside.

    You mostly pay by cash. Credit cards aren't widely accepted, instead you can use your public transport card, charged with money, to pay in registered stores.
    Baca lagi

  • First dinner
    Tokyo at nightWine outside a tiny barHachikoForest of lamps in the Digital Art museumOur new home?

    Tokyo Part 1 - A wrap up

    15 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Tom’s wrap up:
    Our first few days in Tokyo have come to an end today with us jumping on a Shinkansen bullet train bound for Kyoto.
    It’s been my second time to this city and again Tokyo did not disappoint. While the last time I had a wild ride through Tokyo’s Karaoke bars, weird Manga places and its electronic craziness in Akhihabara, this time we took a closer day time look at Tokyo’s diverse sights. And there are so many!!
    My highlights include the Hamarikyu Garden in Ginza, the area of Kagurazaka and the tiny bar scene throughout Kōenji. The tiny bars are just awesome. Ranging from dark holes reminding one of opium dens to posh and stylish wine bars. There’s something for anybody.
    In general I just love the friendliness of people here. No english, no problem. If anything, they will get embarrassed for not being able to help you and do anything to make it work.

    Japan - off to a good start!

    Brief interlude on addresses in Japan for whoever’s interested (Matl):
    Addresses here are structured from big to small units. Something like: Bavaria, Oberbayern, Munich, Sendling, Block 2, Haus 4. The challenge is that houses are not numbered consecutively by location but time of registration of that house. Also streets are merely the space between blocks and rarely named; not the other way around as we are used to.
    Baca lagi

  • View from the train
    BambooJojakko-ji gateJojakko-ji pagodaJojakko-jiAdenbashi nenbutsujiOtagi nenbutsujiOtagi nenbutsujiUrban farm - perfect permaculture principles

    Arashiyama - temples temples temples

    16 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our first full day in Kyoto. Despite the fact that we've been touring till 11pm last night and that our hotel room is amazing, we get up early and head to Kyoto's West, a district called Arashiyama. It's mostly known for the bamboo forest that everyone want to take a picture of, but it has so much more to offer. In fact, we try to keep away from the many many tourists as much as we can and actually discover hidden gems that we hadn't planned to visit or didn't know about.
    We walk past the Togetsu bridge and spot a few blue rowing boats lined up neatly on the Katsura river. I had ditched the idea of a river cruise before due to the costs, but those tiny boats don't cost much and we can row ourselves. And so off we go, Tom quickly getting a hang of how to move the boat efficiently. It's still early and we actually manage to go as far as hardly anyone else. We even stop for a quick scramble on a rock next to river. There must be some amazing hikes here.
    However, as we need to return the boat, we head back. Next time!
    Afterwards we walk towards one of the most important temples in the area, Tenryū-ji. Apparently the gardens are a beautiful sight and so we decide to pay the entry fee. What a mistake. Undoubtedly beautiful, both the temple and the gardens are so crowded, there is no way we can enjoy our surroundings. And this continues through to the bamboo forest. Hence, we opt not to take any of the famous pictures and instead keep on walking towards the Northwest. A few hundred metres later, we discover the Jojakko-ji temple. We're almost the only people that were willing to walk those additional few meters and can't believe we've got all this beauty to ourselves. But we do and it's delightful! The old buildings/structures and beautiful gardens evoke a serenity easily to be felt by anyone walking through.
    We ponder a bit, but our growling stomachs remind us that it's lunchtime. We follow their calls and stumble across another gem. A tiny soba restaurant led by three women, serving the most delicious meal we've had so far. I order "rice in green tea" and got a bowl of rice, sprinkles with seaweed and smoked fish flakes, a pot of green tea and a plate of pickles. Pouring the green tea over the rice changes its texture and flavour every time and my believe in this nation's great food is restored.
    Satisfied, we continue to walk through little streets, lined with small shops offering souvenirs and showcasing different craftmanships until we get to the Adashino Nenbutsuji temple. It used to be a graveyard and there are still gravestones from as early as the 700s to see. The main reason I wanted to come here, however, is the fact that it houses another, less frequented, bamboo forest. But alas, it's closed due to refurbishments. Seems like we are just not meant to get this picture. We're here for memories, not picture though, right?
    So we continue to walk further up the hill, still in full on exploration mode. We even almost decide to go bushbashing to make it to a trail we can only spot on google maps satellite view, but as time is limited, we turn around and visit yet another temple. Otagi Nenbutsuji houses six Buddhist deities and 1200 statues. They are called "rakan", followers of Buddha and are the coolest statues I've seen so far. I could spend hours trying to decide which one I like best!
    We need to be back at the station in time for our train though, so we pay our respects, including ringing the bell, and walk down the direct pathway to find another surprise: Arashiyama isn't only a place of temple and bamboo but also encompasses urban farmland! How cool!
    Slowly, our feet have become tired, and both Tom and I are looking forward to the last part of our journey today: we board the "romantic train" (Tom rolling his eyes), an old cargo train, now used to take passengers 7.3km along the Hozugawa river. The trip must be breathtaking in spring during the cherry blossom season or autumn when the foliage changes its color. Today, it is a nice ride through the hilly area and the perfect ending to our day of exploration.
    What we learned: don't stick to your guidebook recommendations and follow your guts instead!
    Baca lagi

  • PETTiROSSO - great food in Kyoto

    17 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    (This is not an ad, simply a recommendation!)
    Ok, I herewith publicly admit it. I can be quite a nuisance when it comes to travel planning. I like picking up info leaflets, read blogs, follow instagram accounts and read guidebooks. It's time extensive and sometimes I'm way too obsessed. As mentioned yesterday, everyone should make time to simply explore. Wander aimlessly without an agenda. And I do that, too!
    But then I read about places like "Pettirosso", a small restaurant/ modern style izakaya that offers fish, vegetarian and vegan dishes made from local ingredients delivered from trusted farmers. And I'm intrigued. And when we got there for dinner tonight, I was glad that I had read about it. We wouldn't have stumbled across it as it's not super central, but it doesn't have to be. Marc, the owner and a very humble Italian from Milano, has created an awesome little place that immediately reveals its charm. The Mediterranean-Japanese fusion dishes are cooked right in front of the customers on the groundfloor and upstairs offers regular as well as traditional seating areas (tatami mats where you sit on the floor). We chose a vegan and regular dinner set which consisted of a soup, four little tapas, foccacia, salad and the main dish. All of it tasted fabulous! The beverage list features organic wine, as well as local beer and a homade fermented non alcoholic drink, at the moment made of Japanese grapefruit. Delicious!
    Deeply impressed, I started a short conversation with Marc, learning that he has had the restaurant for 1.5years and is part of a vegan/vegetarian, eco friendly local group here in Kyoto. Unfortunately we had to leave and take our bus home, so we couldn't talk much more.
    Nevertheless, I strongly recommend visiting this place, if ever you are in Kyoto! Good food, good company, and clearly led and run by a team who cares.

    https://pettirosso-kyoto.business.site/
    Baca lagi

  • Kodai-jiPontocho

    Kyoto east temple run

    17 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I checked Japan’s tourism statistics today and found that the number of foreign visitors has quadrupled since my last visit in 2012! And, boy can you feel it!
    Kyoto is bursting with tourist. Busses - full, temple - full, streets - full! Of course there’s a reason for that. Kyoto is a stunning city with more shrines and temples than you could wish for. Also, it’s usually easy to escape the crowds. Just turn a corner away from the main attractions and you're by yourself.
    I won’t bore anybody with the details of our temple exploration tour and will simply post the photos.
    Baca lagi

  • Sacred sights require clean handsSacred water sourceFarmlandMore small farmsThe swordsCraftmanship - swords makerTenrikyo

    Escaping the crowds - Yamanobe no michi

    18 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    To be honest, the sheer number of temples in Kyoto can be quite overwhelming. As can be the crowds. And it's a Saturday, to make matters worse.
    We decide to take a break. Instead of walking through Kyoto's narrow alleys with thousands of others, we take the train and head South to Nara. Originally we had planned to go on a temple run there, however, I had read about one of Japan's oldest roads, the Yamanobe no michi, in particular a well-known part of it which runs parallel to the JR Sakurai line. The prospect of exploring a bit of Japan's countryside is tempting. So we skip Nara and get off at Miwa instead. The old pilgrimage trail (it dates back to 700 AD) leads us past and through shrines and temples, forests, small farms, a cemetery and small villages. We see a source of sacred water, a traditional swordmaker (we meet the teacher and two of his students), flowers, orchards, rice fields, two snakes (don't worry, only tiny ones) and only a few other hikers. After roughly 11km we arrive in Tenri, marvelling at Isonokami temple almost by ourselves. Little did we know that we are in for another treat: on the way to the train station we pass a HUGE temple called Tenrikyo. We hadn't seen any other foreigners for the whole day and judging by the way people look and smile at us, we are a rare sight. We probably owe this rarity for being approached by Masui Jirou. He works at the temple and when he learns that it is our first time visiting, he is eager to show us around. We have a private tour guide, how lucky! Masui Jirou teaches us how to pray and tries to explain who we are worshipping, but unfortunately the language barrier doesn't allow a deeper religious conversation. Still, we understand each other well enough to exchange some small talk and become friends on facebook. What a nice guy! And what a wonderful coincidence to discover this place. On the way home we read that Tenrikyo is a newly established religion, but their rules and aims are a bit hard to understand, even in English. As always, mankind's salvation seems to be the ultimate goal. Filled with deep gratitude for such a lovely and calm day, we head home. Let's see what tomorrow will bring.

    For those who want to follow in our footsteps: we can highly recommend this walk for anyone who would like to get out of the city and the crowds. We started at Miwa and went to Tenri,both connected to the Sakurai JR line. It is roughly 11km, with lots of sights along the way. The whole trail is much longer, leading all the way to Nara. The part we walked seemed to be quite popular, as it's easily accessible and can be cut short at various intersections. It's well signed in English and offers a bit of an insight to Japanese country living.
    Baca lagi

  • Jo on the rock(s)
    Sugi (cedar tree)Yaku monkeySunriseSakurajima - active volcanoTom der Kranich

    Yakushima Island

    21 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    The forests on Yakushima island are said to have been the inspiration for (my favourite) one of Hayao Miyazaki’s anime movies “Princess Mononoke”. That and the fact that there’s great hiking on this small island fixed the idea of taking the rather long journey south firmly in my head. Since the trip was my idea, planning it was on my court as well. Hence, not a lot of planning went into it. (Jo says: what a lie! Tom read about 10 blog posts about where to go and what to do)

    Yakushima is a 25km diameter island south of Kyushu which can be reached in 2 hours via Jetfoil ferry. We chose the date of the ferry based on the weather forecast on a Tuesday. And boy, was that a good idea. On the train down south we heard the news that 300 hikers had to be rescued from the mountain trails due to torrential rain falls over the weekend. While tragic for the hikers (noone was injured) this event set the scene for a truely unique experience for us.

    Our plan was to go on a three day hike staying in remote and free mountain huts. We were going to rent a cooker and sleeping mats in town, everything else was packed in our backpacks. However, after the lady in the information ascertained us that the main trail to the mountain is closed due to the heavy rain fall, we decided to take the earlier bus instead of renting the equipment first and just do a short walk. So we thought.

    After about an hour of walking we were told that all the trails are in fact open. So what do you do. Stick to the plan and look for a hostel in town or just go for it and figure out how to turn Udon noodles into food without a cooker later? Exactly, uncooked Udon it is if it means an awesome hike like this one.

    The false information dished out in the town center meant we were walking on a normally super busy trail through a magical japanese forest by ourselves!! I think the photos speak for themselves.

    Food-wise, luck was on our side in the end as well. A group of four senior hikers joined us in the small shelter and graciously shared their cooker with us after a bit of chit chat.

    After a fairly short night we got up with the rest of the group at 3:30am and made our way towards the summit of Mt Myanoura. 2 hours later we appreciated an unobscured 360 degree view from 1936m above sea level. A brief 6 hour stroll later we were back at the bus stop happily avoiding another night on a wooden floor and actually uncooked noodles and headed for Myanoura town. (Jo says: Luckily, the local hostel still had two beds available. And a Japanese bath tub to rejuvenate our tired legs. ) The island not only offers prestine hiking but also amazing natural Onsen (hot springs) on the rocky beach which we enjoyed on our last day.

    Stats (approx)
    Total elevation gain 1300m
    Cumulative elevation gain: 1900m
    Total time: 13h

    Jo says: Three days of sunshine on an island where according to a local “it rains 35days a month”. In German I’d say: “vom Glück geküsst”. Thankful for how lucky we are!
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  • Miyajima - so much more than the Torii

    24 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Travel planning is exciting, but also requires time and research. We had set Yakushima island all the way down South and Kamikochi, a place somewhere North of Tokyo in the Japanese alps, as must-dos which left us with just a long weekend in between. A weekend that we wanted to fill with places worthwile to see.

    Miyajima seemed like a place not to be missed. It's labelled one of the three most scenic views in Japan (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2250.html), a sacred island featuring the floating torii (a gate floating in the sea during hightide) and the famous Itsukushima Shrine. As it is easily accessible by a 15min ferry ride (free with a JR pass), we decided to go - along with hundreds of others.

    Luckily, as with many places in Japan, the crowds vanish if you do so much as walk around the corner. So we skip the shrine and keep on going to the East where we hike up Mt. Misen via the Omoto path. Be ready for hundreds of stairs to climb the 600m elevation! Our legs are still a bit sore from our Yakushima adventure, but the hike is short and the view from the top is worth it. Curious what else we might discover, we descend via the Daisho-in temple. This Shingon sect temple (a branch of esoteric Buddhism in Japan) features so many beautiful sights, we could have spent hours here. It's almost closing time though, so make our way back to the now not so crowded shopping street, passing countless tame deer in the streets. It's quite a sight, seeing them cheekily pulling on clothes, eating info pamphlets or sunbathing on the beach. Wildlife that's not so wild anymore...

    We opt for a local craftbeer from Miyajima brewery (delicious!) and finish our day with some more people watching while the sun slowly descends, turning everything into a golden light.

    Miyajima is so much more than the torii; if you visit, make sure to explore!
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  • Onomichi - city impressions

    25 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Onomichi, apart from many other things, has a funny obsession with cats. There even is a "cat alley", with a cat café, beautiful garden cafés and bars and many art galleries dedicated to the animals.
    Cat themed souvenirs are as common as the fish snacks and the Setoushi citrus fruit products.
    Oh, and have we mentioned the many coffee shops and food offerings? Super interesting to explore!
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  • Beautiful garden caféTiny alleysOne of the bridges on the Shimanani Kaido routeHappy go lucky bus

    Onomichi - A gem off the beaten path

    26 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After slightly overcrowded Miyajima we were headed for a small city called Onomichi. Despite the 25 perfectly preserved shrines and temples and its prime location at the entrance to Shikoku Onomichi still seems to be bypassed by the masses. But nothing can bypass Johanna’s incorruptible sense for worthwhile locations to visit.

    We found a great little Airbnb close to both the temple walk that connects the 25 main attractions and the shopping street running through basically the whole town. The walk was perfectly sign posted and some of the information was provided in english. The shopping street was full of little boutique shops with handcrafted items, coffee roasters and good food. Perfect start.

    On the second day we set out for a cycling tour, hopping from island to island towards Shikoku on the Setouchi Shimanami Kaido. We were able to rent reasonably good quality bicycles for the very reasonable price of 8 Euros for a full day! The bike trail, which in total runs for about 80km, crossing six bridges along the way, is perfectly marked providing different options to get to the final destination but mostly runs along the pristine coast line. And across the awesome bridges! Since it was a hot day, we even cooled off with a dip into the clearwater of the Seto Inland Sea. (Funnily enough, the beach’s showers were still closed. The janitor said they are only open in summer. 31 degrees in May doesn’t count yet.)

    We made it a return trip heading back from the third island, Ikuchijima, and had about 70km of fun on the bike. A perfect 1.5 day stay in Onomichi!
    Baca lagi

  • Kamikochi
    YakedakeOnsen timeMatsumoto castle

    Japanese Alps

    30 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After millions of flashing lights and just as many people in Osaka we started an almost day-long journey to the Japanese Alps. While the prime region in the Northern Alps is Kamikōchi we had booked a guesthouse (“Raicho” - Snow hen) in Norikura Kogen, which is the beautiful highland located at the base of Norikuradake (Mt Norikura) for three nights. Our reasoning was that there are probably fewer people and since there are buses running regularly we wouldn’t miss out on anything. And yes, this plan worked perfectly.

    I don’t even know where to start. The lush green forest, the amazing view of several 3000m+ high mountains or maybe the crazy wildlife? I’ll start with the hot spring pools (Onsen) since this was the first thing we did after arriving. Our lovely guesthouse is the only guesthouse in the region with its own natural Onsen which was in a private outside area behind the house, filled with perfectly hot water, white from all the minerals in it. Perfect to relax after a long day of travelling or hiking.

    The following day we explored the Norikura region on a half day hike/stroll through the forest. Pretty flowers, nice views and a few encounters of mimed conversations with local mountaineers. Great start!

    On our second active day we headed up to Kamikōchi which lies in a valley basin surrounded by amazingly beautiful mountains, including the 3190m high Okuhotakadake. My initial plan was to climb Yakedake, a 2455m high, still active volcano. Unfortunately, it turned out that we’re too early in the season. No chance without at least cramp-ons. Nevertheless, we had a blast walking along the beautiful river and very much enjoyed the views of the mountains, the smell of spring flowers and observing the shananigans the Macaque monkeys were up to this time. Watching all the Japanese going crazy about the spring flowers was fun, too.

    We had a blast in the Japanese Alps! Ridiculously perfect weather, not too busy at this time of the year, in addition to lovely, family-run accomodation. Hope to be back some day!
    Baca lagi

  • The Japanese language

    31 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A subjective view on the japanese language:

    The single most used word (by far) is “Sumimasen”. Just like the German “Entschuldigung” it means both “sorry” and “excuse me”. It is used, however in situations in which at first it seems very out of place for foreigners:
    You enter a restaurant - Sumimasen
    You receive a complimentary glass of water - Sumimasen it is
    Someone holds the door open for you - Oh, you better Sumimasen!

    Why?

    Well you’ve just potentially been a nuisance to the other person and made them feel they need to serve you or help you.
    Of course Sumimasen is also used for its initial purpose. Usually emphasised by a bow. The deeper the more Sumimasen you are.

    Apart from the omnipresent Sumimasen we got quite far with the few phrases we learned before hand and on the go. Here’s just a few (in made up phonetic romanisation):

    Thank you - Arigato (usually followed by a gosaimas if you want to be polite)

    Ohaio gosaimas/Konnitschiwa/Gombawa - Good morning/Hello/Good evening

    Kore/sore - This/that

    Please - Onegaischimas/Kudasai

    You’re welcome - Do itaschimaschte

    Two beers please - Biru ftatsu kudasei (obviously)

    Just in general Japanese people love it if one tries to use their language. But be prepared that they usually continue speaking Japanese after that. So better have a quick “Sumimasen! Wakkaranai” (I don’t understand) in your back pocket.

    It was great fun to try out this great language and I feel like Japanese isn’t that hard to learn. If you’re able to imitate Yoda, you’ve got the grammar down, half of the words are derived from english with an “o” or “u” at the end and the rest is easy, right?

    Sumimasen,
    Tom
    Baca lagi

  • Omiyage
    Fish snackQueing for a scooter parking lotOuchi :-)Plastic bottles

    Japan - more random facts

    31 Mei 2019, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A lot of times Japanese say “sumimasen“ when saying hello. It means “excuse me“. Another indication of how polite this nation is (read more about the language in our post "on Japanese language")

    Japanese sweets can be great. They usually feature soy or rice flour and some filling. A lot of times matcha is used, too. However, they can also have a random fishy taste. And it's not always obvious which ones do. So be careful when tasting things!

    "Omiyage" (souvenir or gift, usually brought back from a holiday for friends, family and colleagues) is a thing. We watched people picking up countless boxes at ferry and train stations and were even given some ourselves when we passed on our bus tickets to two ladies. Who wouldn't like almonds with fried sardines as snack?

    Lots of things are offered to the gods. Coins, alcohol, coffee and canned fruits. Seems like they're having a good time. (Cans of beer and coffee cups are also often put on graves)

    Kids seem to go to school on Saturdays as well.

    There are signs on the floor indicating where to board the train. Different trains have different symbols, a ° or a |>, and these are shown on the train schedule displays.

    Cherry trees are apparently grown for their blossoms, not the fruit. The fruit stays tiny and fairly bitter and no one seems to harvest it.

    Japan, just as the US doesn’t start with ground floor but with 1F then going to 2F and so forth.

    There are different shoes to wear inside the house and the toilet. (Your street shoes are left at the door)

    Restaurants are everywhere. Mostly tiny, serving delicious food. No idea how all of them survive in this competitive market though.

    We've never seen large scale agriculture or a stock farm. There are lots of small urban patches where vegetables are grown and even the bigger agricultural areas outside of the cities are divided into small rectangular patches. We wonder where all the meat that the Japanese are consuming is coming from, a bit scary...

    Japanese love to queue. At buses there’s usually a row of max 2 people next to each other with proper distance of course. Cutting the line doesn’t exist here.

    The Japanese don’t blow their noses. Apparently, they find it quite disgusting.

    In Japan you don’t eat while walking. Even if it’s a snack, better sit down for a second.

    Sleeping on the subway is absolutely fine. It shows you worked hard.

    If you see plastic bottles filled with water in front of houses, they are used to deter cats. No peeing on the plants, please!

    English signage is quite common. Sometimes the translations seem a bit odd or funny (yet always clear). The "l" instead od an "r" (e.g. bal instead of bar) happened more often than you would think.
    Baca lagi

  • Street foodBonsaiCraftbeer “August“The crew, thanks to Nikko and Verena

    Bueno Ueno - our last day in Japan

    1 Jun 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Do you sometimes have trouble keeping up with dates and such things? I certainly do.
    Our time in Japan has come to an end. Three wonderful weeks filled with beautiful moments, amazing landscapes and interesting cultural experiences.
    For our last stop we returned to Tokyo as there were still lots of neighbourhoods we hadn't seen yet. We decided to stay in a cute hostel up North, in Arakawa, as it is close to Asakusa and Akihabara, the areas we planned to visit.
    Well, today turned out differently.
    Waking up hungry as we had had only minimal dinner yesterday, our first thought was getting breakfast. Not an easy task with someone picky and undecided as me, so we end up walking around in our area, getting on a community bus to explore more and just before we start getting angry due to our empty stomachs, we make it to Ueno station. Lots of bakeries have plenty to offer and we grab a few danishs and rolls and head to the park to eat. *satisfiedsigh*
    We've already seen some of Asakusa but got sidetracked and are off the route now. So what? Our plan certainly isn't set in stone and hence we simply go with the flow and explore Ueno park. The fact that we bearly take notice of all the beautiful shrines and temples might be an indicator for our temple saturation... shrine 126? Ah, ok. A bit sad, to be honest, as I try to imagine it was my first day in Japan and just how delighted I would have been then. We regain appreciation when walking past an Azalean exhibition. Bonsai trees so full of blossoms, you can barely see the tree. They almost look fake, but they aren't.
    Continuing our stroll, we walk past outdoor art installations in the park (the national art museum is right around the corner), tiny little alleys with beautiful art galleries, a craft brewery (couldn't go past it without trying the beer flight) and finally reach Yanesen, an old merchant district of the city that still features many shops and street food stalls. The area is full of people shopping, taking pictures and walking around and we join them. One stall catches our interest in particular. An old guy is playing with spinning toys, an ancient Japanese game, as we learned during the cultural festival a few weeks back. Delighted by us watching, he even teaches us some tricks! Few words and gestures help us understand each other and soon we've fot the spin. How I love these random encounters.
    Afterwards, we continue to Akihabara, the electronic quarter. Instead of electronics, I'm taken aback a bit by the many girls dressed up as sexy (ish) maids trying to draw customers into the cafés they work for. Weird.
    Our tired feet then demand a break. Filled with all these different impressions we decide to head back to the hostel before meeting friends for dinner. Yes, we've made friends :-). We met Nico and Verena from Munich on Yakushima island and realised that we were travelling through Japan on similar itineraries and timeframes. Hence, we had made plans to spend the last evening together, heading to Shinjuku once again. Couldn't have asked for a better end to our trip than joining the izakaya culture in a 100yen beer bar with great company surrounded by locals in the heart of the city.
    Japan, you certainly exceeded my expectations. Thank you!
    Baca lagi

  • Pickles
    Pickled cucumber sticksRamen descriptionTomato ramenMatcha swirlsRice flour sweets

    What we ate in Japan

    1 Jun 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As we weren't travelling in our car but using public transport instead, we weren't cooking as much as we usually do. Our accommodations ranged from AirBnB apartments to guesthouses, hostels and hotels, but even if we had access to a kitchen we usually spent so much time exploring that there was no energy left to cook. Additionally, we changed locations fairly often and didn't want to carry around too much food along the way. And last but not least, almost every vegetable is wrapped in plastic! Hence, apart from breakfast (I'm just no fan of having a miso soup and rice at 8am), we ate out a lot. Here's a list to give you an impression of our culinary experiences:

    Ramen is a cheap and easily accessible option for lunch or dinner. Finding a vegetarian option is almost impossible though. And choosing your toppings from a vending machine with only Japanese signs can be quite difficult. Nevertheless, it's always going to be a satisfying and filling meal. My favourite was the tomato version we ate in Kagoshima. Lighter than the pork style, fresh and full of flavour.

    Soba is quite similar to ramen, but the style of noodles is a bit different (they're made out of buckwheat) and the broth isn't as heavy. We had a wonderful lunch in Arashiyama, Kyoto's western district, that was made with love. Here I learned that "yasai" is the word for vegetables, very helpful!

    Sashimi and sushi - probably the west's favourite Japanese dishes. We ate not as much of it as I thought we would to be honest. Sashimi (just raw fish) was tasty but could be overwhelming quite quickly. Sushi was great of course, but I was always a bit worried of which fish we were eating and how sustainable our choice was. The language barrier often didn't allow to ask detailed questions and I relied on the help of blog posts such as https://tokyocheapo.com/food-and-drink/sustaina… to choose right.

    Pickles - Japan seems to be the place for fermented food. Miso soup is quite well known but the variety of pastes and pickled veggies is amazing! I liked daikon (radish) and ginger the most. And we were quite amused by the pickled cucumbers on a stick that were offered as roadside snack. (I don't think our guts have ever been healthier :-))

    Sweets - Japanese make great sweets. Funnily enough, my sweet tooth kept unusually quiet on this trip, or maybe it was simply satisfied by the bits and pieces it got from free tastings usually offered in the Omiyage shops around important sights. The rice flour sheets we tasted in Kyoto, a byproduct of sake manufacturing, was my favourite, at least the matcha and cinnamon flavours. In Yakushima, there are lots of sweets featuring the local tankan citrus as well as cookies using some byproduct from the cedar industry (no idea how that works). In the Japanese Alps, sweets with cream cheese and apples are a thing. Lots of snacks and sweets also feature fish though. Definitely something to be aware of.

    Yakitori or Shabu Shabu - BBQ or hotpot. Grilling meat on your own grill at the table or simmering it in a broth seemed to be super popular. We tried some steak once and it was super tasty, but since we're both not big meat eaters and I also had the feeling it would help if you had a local actually showing you how to order and prepare your meal properly, we didn't try again.

    Matcha- the green tea powder is omnipresent in Japan. The most popular use seemed to be matcha lattes and soft serve ice cream. Not only tasty but also quite photogenic.

    Shochu, also called "Japanese vodka". Depending on the region, it is made out of rice, sweet potato or buckwheat. It can be served hot (to bring out its flavours) or cold, mixed with soda, green tea or softdrinks, lots of time with fresh fruit juice as well. Super tasty and hence a bit dangerous. We even had it with beer once.

    I think my favourite meal was a lunch set featuring a bowl of rice sprinkled with smoked salmon and seaweed, served with green tea to turn it into a soup. Definitely worth trying!
    Baca lagi

  • Tako-yaki
    Takoyaki in the makingOkonomiyakiTaiyaki- fish shaped pancakes with fillingWhole fried fish. Yes, you eat it allCharcoal grilled fish, often sweet

    What we ate in Japan 2

    1 Jun 2019, Jepun ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Japanese cuisine is so versatile, I needed a second post.

    Tempura: this fried food tastes great, but only when hot. Don't repeat our mistake to take a cold box for lunch.

    Okonomiyaki: a noodle or cabbage based dish that looks like a BIG pancake, has different toppings (usually egg, meat, seafood or fish) and is bathed in a thick sauce similar to teriyaki and mayonnaise. Its name actually means "cook as you like" so the possibilities are endless. While I found it too heavy most of the time, it's a tasty and filling dish (and one of friend's favourite- cheers Tibo!).

    Tako-yaki: this was our first lunch in Tokyo. We simply saw small balls being deep fried and served with different toppings. I was hoping for vegetables but it turns out we tried octopus dumplings. Quite interesting, especially the dried fish flakes and powdered seaweed on top. We also had it super fresh in Yanaka on our last day. Crispy on the outside, squishy on the inside.

    Izakaya, meaning a place to drink sake. These Japanese pubs are a great place to go for dinner. The meals are usually small dishes that are shared and ordered consecutively along with your drinks. Not the cheapest, but very intriguing!

    The food hall in department stores: if you don't know what you feel like for lunch and you're in a bigger city, go to the food hall in a department store. All the meals are on display so it's easy to choose. Bring your own cutlery to be able to refuse the disposables and take your food to a park nearby. In Tokyo, we were even able to eat in the rooftop garden.

    Conclusion: Japanese cuisine is super tasty! If you're not vegan or vegetarian, go for it and simply try the local food. Choose places that are crowded and if nothing else helps, point to dishes that are served to neighbouring tables. We've never been disappointed. If you are vegan or vegetarian, you will still find options, you just need to look a bit harder. "Happycow" (online listing website) is a great help. AND: take your own cutlery and chopsticks! It felt like everything in Japan comes wrapped in plastic, it would be great if more people tried to cut it down.
    Baca lagi

  • The church next to the city square
    Amusement park next to the harbourCafé "Contemporary"Street art in the makingThe train station - final stop of the Transsiberian

    Wladiwostok - first impressions

    3 Jun 2019, Rusia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We made it! We are in Russia, in particular in Wladiwostok, all the way on the East Coast.
    Russia is a country neither of us has been to yet and seems a bit daunting, to be honest.
    We had already been super excited about our granted visa (the process is not the easiest but actually fairly straight forward if you got all the information), but I think we were even happier once we passed immigration (Tom: I almost peed my pants when they triple checked my passport!!).

    Russia is such a vast country, I still can't quite believe we'll be driving through it in a few days!
    We can't start yet, as we're waiting for Hans to arrive.
    Hence, we're staying in a cute hostel, high up in the hills (Wladiwostok is also called San Francisco of the East) and prepare for our adventures.
    Firstly, we learned a few phrases Russian and read about food&culture. Then it was time to go out and explore.

    The city feels quite welcoming and nice to stroll through once you have overcome your initial culture shock. Tom is even already able to read the Cyrillic alphabet (and I try, too), hence street and shop names as well as the signage can be deciphered and suddenly everything doesn't seem so strange and foreign anymore.
    We also discover beautiful neighbourhoods, great street art and nice coffee places and we manage to get a few smiles from people we try our Russian on. I firmly believe this will be a great adventure.
    Baca lagi

  • On the road again

    8 Jun 2019, Rusia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    He's back! After four weeks and five days of being apart, we're reunited with Hans. Thanks to Brent from Bikes abroad (our Australian agent) and Yuri and Svetlana from Links, LTD. (our Russian agent), the shipping of the car went as smoothly as can be, with only a minor delay of 4days (delays of a week or more are more than common. Ship schedules are a finicky thing.).
    Tom and I were anxiously waiting for Yuri's call this morning. Papers had been cleared yesterday, now it was just a question of when the container would be unloaded. Once Yuri called, everything went super fast. He picked us up and drove us to the terminal where the container was already on the ground. It was opened in our presence and there he was: Hans. The engine started on first try, he was driven out and after we had paid Yuri, he was ours once again.
    No more hostel searching and worrying about kitchen access, we've got our home back!
    A couple of hours later (we needed to unpack our backpacks, rearrange a few things, shop groceries and fill up our tank), we are on the road. Jeez, it feels good!
    Tom quickly got used to driving on the right side again (even in a right-hand drive), but we still need to get a feeling for the road conditions. So many potholes! The landscape is quite similar to home (Germany in this case), the sun is shining and just before dark (daylight is till about 9pm) we find a beautiful spot next to a lake about 15min from the highway.
    Brotzeit (cheese, bread, mustard, vegan dip, tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers) for dinner makes this a perfect day.
    Baca lagi

  • Galiya and her family
    The cathedralA street library in the park!One of the many war memorialsAnother church in the city center

    Khabarovsk - beautiful river city

    10 Jun 2019, Rusia ⋅ 🌫 20 °C

    Khabarovsk. The first bigger city we stopped at with Hans.
    As always in a city, finding a decent parking spot is difficult. Landcruising Adventures, a Dutch overlanding couple, had shared their option at the cathedral, so we head there first. It is a Sunday and on arrival the parking lot is fairly crowded with groups of youngsters, BBQing, fixing their cars, smoking hookahs, who knows what else. We persuade ourselves that they will leave once it gets dark and explore the surroundings a bit more. The cathedral is beautiful, there are two more war memorials and a fancy looking hotel, not much else. Time passes and instead of people leaving, even more cars arrive.
    Even without opening our rooftop, we wouldn't feel safe sleeping here. So the search begins again. It's dark by now, we don't want to go far, but we need a quiet and secluded spot. After circling around about 3 times, we opt to stop next to an old building in a quiet street, maybe 100m from our original location. This will do for the night.
    Converting the car to sleep "downstairs" takes a bit of time as we're not as used to it, but we manage and almost instantly fall into deep and exhausted sleep.
    The next morning, we're happy everything worked as well as it did, drive up to the cathedral again, have breakfast and walk to the city centre to explore Khabarovsk a bit more.
    The Riverside boulevard is well maintained and lined by parks, the streets are wide and the buildings big and beautiful. We're especially surprised to be approached by a young woman on the street. Galiya (we later get to know her name and family) simply wanted to practice her English and meet some new people and we were super happy to be able to talk to locals! Hence we all headed for a second breakfast, trying some local blinys (buckwheat pancakes) and exchanged some stories about each other. What a pleasant experience!
    But then it is time for us to go again... Still a few 1000kms to go!
    Baca lagi

  • Random observations in Russia - 1

    12 Jun 2019, Rusia ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    In Vladivostok, we only saw people drinking vodka once. In 6 days.

    People walk along freeways. It's not quite clear where to, as there are no obvious bus stops or settlements close by.

    Russians might seem intimidating at first. If you try a little bit and give them a reason to smile, they will. After the first impression was overcome, we had beautiful experiences connecting with the locals.

    Lots of cars are right hand drive even though traffic is right sided again. We've been told this will change the further west we go (and it did).

    You can't drink tap water. It's contaminated not by bacteria but heavy metals and rust in the pipes.

    Water sold at natural springs might turn brown on you. We bought some and even though we filtered it, it did. The guy who sold it to us did mention it's for drinking and washing, but not for cooking. We researched a bit and found out that the discoloration might derive from iron that oxidated with the water's temperature increase (it was quite warm in the car).

    Vegetarian or vegan food is - once again - hard to come by. Unless you cook yourself of course.

    Our first public toilet at a gas station was super clean. But you have to bring your own toilet paper.

    Houses in the countryside are mostly built out of wood and painted super colorful. Blue is a popular color.

    We saw lots of gardening. People seem to grow their own veggies and sell excess on little street stalls. Either next to their house or randomly placed on the main roads.

    At gas stations, you pay first and then fill up your tank according to the amount paid. If you paid too much, you will get the change back.

    Churches often have golden roofs.

    Vast stretches of the country are covered in untouched forests, marshland and pastures. In spring, they're often covered in colorful flowers, really beautiful to look at.

    Birches are incredibly common.

    Cyrillic (the Russian alphabet) uses Latin letters but they have a different meaning. E.g. P=R, H=N, B=V, C=S.

    I've never heard so many cuckoos in my life.
    Baca lagi

  • Dump site
    Piles of garbage next to our campsiteBurning piles at a dump site

    Plastic pollution

    14 Jun 2019, Rusia ⋅ 🌫 21 °C

    "No, we don't want a plastic bag." As it did in Japan, this sentence causes much confusion in Russia. Sometimes not only confusion but also inconvenience. We learnt to weigh our fruits and veggies in the supermarkets, but little did we know that they will be weighed again at the check-out. It's a bit of a nuisance if all your apples, carrots and who knows what else are rolling around freely in the shopping cart. You should have seen me with 10 different price tags sticking to my fingers, trying to give the cashier the right one for the goods she was trying to balance on her scale....
    And once again, we're short on words on how to explain why we don't want a plastic bag. Stupid language barrier. But working towards a waste free world is simply too important to us to give in. (To avoid disturbed supermarket staff we seem to have to shift to street stall sellers. Better for the local economy anyways. Or pickled veggies in glass.) If it really can't be avoided, we reuse the bags as often as we can.
    At many of the campsites we stay at, we realize just how weird our refusal of plastic bags must be for the locals. Trash everywhere. Bottles, cans, bags, you name it. No one seems to care. If you park by a remote lake in the forest and you're surrounded by 200 beer bottles and just as many cans, it just spoils the wilderness experience. In addition to simply being bad for nature! And while we used to pick up litter in Australia (look up the "take three for the sea" campaign), we don't even know where to start here. We don't have enough room to take that much trash. And we wouldn't know where to throw it away either :(.
    So we do our bit of at least leaving nothing but footprints and move on. Sometimes, if the amount of litter is manageable, clearing up the site as well.
    But then we pass garbage collection points in the villages and smaller cities, as well as a dump site and understand the problem a bit better. The dump site is in the middle of forests and marshland and the way the garbage is dealt with, is being dumped there to rot. Some piles are smoking, suggesting the waste is being burnt. No one seems to care if toxic waste reaches groundwater or toxic gases are released into the air. Maybe I'm exaggerating and I don't know enough. But it just seems so wrong!
    Russia seems to have a long way ahead in terms of its waste management. Hopefully, it will get there fast. Prohibiting and putting a fine on littering might be a good start. In the meantime, we'll try to keep our impact as low as possible. And find words to explain why it is important.
    (Mind you, our campspot tonight is almost spotless. These places exist as well!)
    Baca lagi