Inquisitive world traveler who writes books, gives talks & leads tours through historic cemeteries. My homebase is Texas, where I share a goth/tiki castle with my mad scientist husband & tabby cat. For my newsletter & more visit: TuiSnider.com Read more United States
  • Day 26

    Mindelo - Cape Verde Islands

    April 26 in Cape Verde ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Cesária Évora is the most famous singer from Mindelo and we saw her image all over town. Nicknamed the “Barefoot Diva” she sometimes performed without shoes and had a penchant for swigging alcohol onstage.

    Cesária Évora often sang in the local Cape Verdean Creole, and her style is sometimes compared to Edith Piaf and Billie Holiday.

    Cape Verde is known for its unique music, (which is a story I’ll share elsewhere) but we weren’t in port late enough to catch the local scene.

    That said, I’m not sure how safe it would be to hang out in Mindelo at night as a foreigner. Poverty is rampant, beggars plentiful, and every store has staff on watch for shoplifters. As for living off the land, locals can catch fish, but the island is so rocky that little grows.

    As you can see, we ran into our choir teacher, Thiago, while out and about. We let him know that the Portuguese phrases he taught us came in handy today. Although they speak their own Creole, it varies from island to island and Portuguese is the official national language.
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  • Day 18

    Bright City - Dark Past

    April 18 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Ironically, the most brightly colored part of Salvador de Bahia has its darkest past. The Pelourinho neighborhood takes its name from the whipping post which once stood here.

    Until slavery was outlawed in 1888, this is where African slaves were bought, sold, and punished.

    Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, full of tourist shops.

    In 1996, Michael Jackson was filmed here for his song “They Don’t Really Care About Us.”

    Today, a cut out of “the King of Pop” still stands in the same balcony as he did in his music video.

    We didn’t go into the building, but it’s a popular photo stop for MJ fans. When I get back home, I plan to watch the video. It will be fun to see if we recognize any of the settings, since parts of the video were also filmed in Rio.
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  • Day 18

    Salvador Streets

    April 18 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    The city of Salvador in Brazil’s state of Bahia is a port town with steep hills. As a result there are two main sections to the city, the lower and the upper.

    An easy way to get from the bay level to the upper level is to take a special elevator called Lacerda. Unfortunately, it was broken when we visited, so we took a cab. (I wasn’t too sad, however, since I’m claustrophobic!)

    While it’s possible to walk between levels, it is not advised because, sadly, the crime rate is quite high in Salvador.

    In fact, several cruise ship passengers were mugged during our visit. One woman had her cell phone swiped while using a selfie stick. Another had a necklace snatched off her neck. Yet another had her arm cut when a mugger sliced her purse strap. Scary stuff! (Reminds me of South Africa, crime wise.)

    See the statues in the lake? They represent “Orishas” which are gods/saints in the Candomble religion.

    At first glance, they look like a group of women wearing dresses, but they are actually male and female figures wearing holy robes.

    Many Bahian’s ancestors were originally slaves brought over from Africa. A unique blend between their African traditions and Catholicism created a new religion called Candomble.

    I don’t know much about it, but syncretic religions intrigue me and I plan to learn more.
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  • Day 18

    Church of Colored Ribbons

    April 18 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Our cabbie, JCDS, took us to Salvador’s most beloved church: Basilica Santuario Senhor do Bonfim,

    The church is surrounded by a wrought iron fence that is completely covered in brightly covered cloth. These fluttering ribbons are called “fitas.”

    According to a tradition dating back to at least the early 1800s, these ribbons have the power to grant three wishes. You can wear the ribbon on your wrist, ankle, or tie it to the gate.

    In order to get the three wishes, you must tie three knots. After that, you must wait for the ribbon to fall off of its own accord. Only then, will your wishes be granted.

    As for the ribbons tied to the church gates; three or four times a year, they are burned in a special Catholic ceremony. Not only does this grant the wishes, but it makes way for more ribbons!

    A replica of Senhor Bonfim inside the church is believed to bestow special curative powers upon the faithful. Those seeking divine intervention leave wax replicas of ailing body parts and/or photograph as of themselves inside the “salsa do milagre” (room of miracles.)

    There’s also a fountain made of Carrara marble featuring a figure of Jesus pointing to Heaven with his right hand. His left arm is draped around a cross, while that hand holds a broken chain. To top it all off, Jesus is stands on a serpent.

    I love all the symbolism, of course, but I’ll save the details for a Patreon post rather than ramble on here!

    According to a nearby plaque, the sculptor’s name has been lost to history.
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  • Day 18

    A Local Saint

    April 18 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Although our taxi driver didn’t speak much English, and our Portuguese is minimal and tinged with Spanish, Larry and I communicated quite well with our cabbie in Salvador.

    I’m embarrassed to admit, however, that I never quite caught his name. When we first asked, he rattled off a lengthy moniker, something like, “Juan Jose Carlo da Silva.”

    “Can we call you Juan?” Larry asked.

    “No, I’m Juan Jose Carlo da Silva,” he replied. So we left it at that.

    The first place JCDS took us was a shrine to a local saint, “St. Irma Dulce of the Poor.”

    Not only was St Irma Dulce born in Salvador, but she is the first saint to be born in Brazil. She was beatified in 2011.

    From what our cabbie told us, St Irma Dulce dedicated her life to caring for poor people.

    While the body of St. Dulce is in a box tomb, an effigy of her lies inside a display case on top of it.

    I barely had time to snap a few photos before JCDS whisked us of to the “room of miracles” which was full of ex votos and other testaments to miracles attested to the workings of St. Irma Dulce.

    Afterwards, we took a quick peek into the gift shop. There is a cafe, too, but we weren’t ready for a coffee break yet.

    As we continued our tour through Salvador, I saw numerous street murals depicting St. Irma Dulce along the way.
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  • Day 15

    K-Rioca Samba Show

    April 15 in Brazil ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    The K-Rioca Samba show put on an “ass-tounding” performance for our ship while we were in Rio de Janeiro. Sorry! I couldn’t resist making that pun because the women’s costumes were cheeky in the most literal sense.

    I was amazed how well those ladies could maneuver in high heels and massive headdresses. The buns were bouncing, I tell ya!

    The name “K-Rioca” is a play on words since denizens of Rio call themselves “cariocas.”

    I’e never experienced carnival in Rio, but the intense percussion rhythms and energetic dancing of this samba troop gave us a little taste.
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  • Day 15

    Rio Street Scenes

    April 15 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    After our jaunt through the rain forest, we took the scenic route home. It was late afternoon on a weekday, so both of Rio’s famed beaches (Ipanema and Copacabana) were fairly empty.

    Our guide explained that downtown Rio is crime ridden because no one lives there. At night, it’s especially dangerous to wander around.

    I included a photo of motorbikes because of the antenna. Do you know what that’s for? It’s not for any sort of reception. The reason people have antennae’s on their scooters and motorbikes is to protect themselves from errant kite strings.

    In Rio, competitive kite flying is a thing, and people sometimes add broken glass to their kite strings. Bikers can be severely injured or even killed if they stumble into these kite strings. Isn’t that crazy?

    The “use mascara” sign made us laugh!

    And I never did find out why the logo on the police station features a snake smoking a pipe, but that’s yet another item for this trip’s “to be researched.”

    Even though it looks nicer when covered in ivy, the amount of barbed wire in Rio reminds me a bit of South Africa.
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  • Day 15

    Tijuca Rainforest

    April 15 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    On other visits to Rio de Janeiro, we’ve toured the city. This time, we decided to visit the Tijuca Rain Forest, a lush green space that runs through the outskirts of town.

    Homes that existed before the land was set aside as a refuge are grandfathered in. People still live there.

    Another oddity are all the elegant Carrara marble bathtubs scattered throughout the pathways.

    We didn’t see any sloths, alas, but we bumped into a family of coatimundis. Are they ever cute!

    We also encountered a couple black capuchin monkeys. I’m always very cautious around monkeys, but these guys merely seemed curious about us.
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  • Day 10

    Rainbows & Barfbags

    April 10, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    When the seas are rough, cruise ships often hang little pouches with barf bags in them on railings throughout the ship.

    Larry and I are lucky, however. He never gets seasick, and I almost never do.

    Today, however, I made the mistake of looking at some videos on our friend’s phone during dinner and it made me so queasy that I had to leave early.
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