March 2024

March - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Tui Snider Read more
Currently traveling
  • 41footprints
  • 9countries
  • 84days
  • 532photos
  • 8videos
  • 13.5kmiles
  • 7.6ksea miles
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  • Day 13

    Dragon Full Moon Party

    March 13 ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    In Penang, the ship had a “Dragon Full Moon Party.” Oddly enough, the lunar phase that evening was a waxing crescent, which you can see if you look closely at my photos.

    We enjoyed a lively conversation with Alan and Susan (friends we made through the choir class) along with cool beverages, and a glorious sunset.Read more

  • Day 13

    Ladyboys of Phuket

    March 13 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    For our stop in Phuket the Simon Cabaret Ladyboys came aboard, and boy did they ever deliver an energetic show!

    What is a ladyboy? Basically, Ladyboys are transgender men who dress and live as women. The Thais have their own word for it, but “Ladyboy” emerged as a term to explain things to Westerners. It’s not a derogatory term, Ladyboys are an accepted part of Thai society.

    Why is that? Some say it’s because the Buddhist religion is more accepting. That said, same sex marriage isn’t legal in Thailand, nor are they allowed to change the sex on their IDs, even if they’ve had surgery.

    (Update: Same sex marriage is on the ballot in Thailand!!!)

    And not all Ladyboys are cabaret dancers. We saw one working at the elephant sanctuary, and another as a cashier.

    Anyway, the Ladyboy show was a blast. To me, it felt like a lively celebration of womanhood. I enjoyed all the glitz and glam.

    Afterwards, the Ladyboys received a standing ovation and people rushed up to have photos taken with them.

    I waited ‘til the last minute, but as you can see, the Ladyboys are tall. They stand a good head taller than me!
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  • Day 14

    Phuket Elephant Sanctuary

    March 14 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Our dinner companions, Thelma and Clive, joined us for a trip to the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary.

    As we drove to the sanctuary’s grounds, we passed a latex farm, where we could see little cups catching the rubber as it drips. I’m always surprised by how thin rubber trees are.

    Once we arrived, the employees sat us down for refreshments. While we enjoyed fresh banana fritters and other snacks, we watched an eye-opening documentary about the mistreatment of elephants.

    I didn’t realize, for instance, that when you see elephants seemingly painting pictures for fun, they are actually being forced to do so by a trainer who covertly pokes them in the ear with a sharp nail. And that’s just one example of how elephants are exploited and mistreated.

    The residents here are all elephants that have been rescued from bad circumstances.

    The highlight of our visit was feeding fruit to the elephants. They spend most of the day eating leaves, but fruit is a special treat for them, rather like dessert.

    I really enjoyed making eye contact with our elephant while feeding her. As you can see, Larry just as delighted as I was.
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  • Day 17

    We took a tuk tuk!

    March 17 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    I downloaded a special rideshare app called PickMe for our visit to Sri Lanka. It’s like Uber, except you can also book tuk tuks and motor scooters.

    Thus prepared, we stepped off the ship. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to connect to any cell services in Sri Lanka. Larry occasionally got one bar of service, but the app was all set up on my phone, so we couldn’t use it.

    We wound up booking a tuk tuk the old-fashioned way, when a man approached us and asked if we needed a taxi. Larry negotiated with him and off we went.

    I’d never been in a tuk tuk before, and it was a blast! Despite the hot day and heavy traffic, I wasn’t scared. Our driver, Indika, knew how to maneuver that little machine, with the open air providing a much-needed breeze.

    I don’t really enjoy over-crowded cities, but our tuk tuk trip turned it into a fun whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells.

    I didn’t realize that even the police use tuk tuks. At one point, we even saw a couple men handcuffed together. One of them sat on the other’s lap as they were taken to jail!

    After wandering through a historic cemetery for a couple hours, we were ready for refreshments, so Indika took us to a lovely coffee shop where Larry bought drinks and pastries for the three of us.

    At Indika’s insistence, we dropped by Victoria Park to see the elephants. L&I found it a rather sad scene, however. The mahouts were shooting rocks at crows with slingshots for fun, and laughing cruelly anytime they got close.

    We could have fed and pet the elephants, but I didn’t want to tip those mahouts, and was sad to see that the elephants there had both their front and back legs chained.

    I was excited to see a brightly colored kingfisher there, and rather puzzled to see a crow with a pack of cigarettes…

    I’d rather expected our tuk tuk ride to be scary, dirty, and hot, but was pleasantly surprised, instead. I’d definitely book a tuk tuk again!
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  • Day 17

    Arthur C Clarke Grave

    March 17 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    It’s probably a good thing that I didn’t read about the venomous snakes of Sri Lanka before our visit to Borella Kanatte cemetery in Colombo!

    Sticking to the paved paths is the safest bet, but we were searching for Arthur C. Clark’s grave, and this required much wandering through the grass.

    Our tuk tuk driver, Indika, is Catholic, but he can read and speak Singhalese, so he was able to interpret many of the epitaphs for me along the way.

    After the Catholic section, we wandered into the Buddhist section, where my favorite mausoleum featured skeletons, elephants, swans, and the traditional Buddhist wheel.

    Indika showed me the grave of a famous Sri Lankan “sing song lady” whose monument is shaped like a sitar.

    After an hour and a half, Larry finally found Arthur C. Clark’s grave. There was still a lot more to see, but by then we were melting from the heat, so we hopped back into Indika’s tuk tuk and went to a coffee shop.
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  • Day 17

    Colombo’s Red Mosque

    March 17 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    I don’t know the story behind Colombo’s Red Mosque, but it’s rather striking as you can see.

    One thing that surprised me was how it as crammed-jammed in between a bunch of rather bland buildings on a hectic street full of shops catering to tourists and locals alike.Read more

  • Day 18

    Haircut & Cathedral

    March 18 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    When Larry told our tuk tuk driver he wanted a haircut, Indika said he knew just the place. Not only that, he knew the name of a “special Sri Lanka man style hair for you.”

    Indika took us to a Hindi salon and spent a good two minutes describing the haircut to the barber. The place smelled of nag champa incense and after shave, and the radio was tuned to a Hindi music station. I was surprised to see that the barber was barefoot.

    Once Larry settled into the barber chair, Indika asked if I wanted to see his church, by which he meant St. Anthony’s Cathedral. I said sure, so off we went.

    Along the way, we passed shops selling flowers and holy statues for Hindus and Christians alike. I should have taken photos of the shelves featuring Krishna next to Jesus, and so forth, but Indika’s brisk pace didn’t give me the chance.

    A week or so after our first visit to Colombo, a suicide bomber attacked St. Anthony’s Cathedral during Easter Sunday Mass.

    These days, the church has a metal detector and guards who check everyone who enters. Indika was eager to show me the shrine for this event and explain that he was on his way to church when the explosion happened. How terrible and scary!

    Beyond that, I don’t quite know why it says “Priest Victim” over a case containing what looks to be the body of an uncorrupted saint beside something that reminds me of the Shroud of Turin.
    More for the research file!

    I enjoyed the koi ponds and little aquariums with fish throughout the cathedral and its grounds. This is a nod to St. Anthony, who is said to have preached to the fish and is the patron saint of fishermen.

    By the time we returned to the barbershop, Larry’s haircut was nearly complete. The man even gave him a vigorous head and neck massage. All that for $5 US!
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  • Day 18

    Sri Lanka Dancers

    March 18 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Another wonderful local act; this time a Sri Lankan dance group treated us to an amazing show. Loved the gorgeous outfits, music, and choreography that was both graceful and, at times, acrobatic. There was even a guy spinning plates.Read more

  • Day 19

    Maldives Market

    March 19 on the Maldives ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    I didn’t have a banana with me for scale, but as you can see, the market in Male, Maldives had no shortage of bananas for sale.

    The market booth vendors were friendly and happy to explain what various things were, such as betel leaves, betel nuts, pine fruit, curry leaves, and pandan leaves.

    We tried samples of coconut honey candy, but my big thrill was drinking a fresh coconut. What a thrill!

    I forget what the local language is in the Maldives, but the script is very pretty, don’t you think?

    As for the stray cat, she instantly knew that I’m a cat person. As we passed by, it was all I could do not to sneak her back onto the ship with me!
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  • Day 19

    Male Muslim Cemetery

    March 19 on the Maldives ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Smack dab in the middle of a busy downtown Male lies a historic burial ground dating back to 1656!

    The Muslim cemetery at Old Friday Mosque is so old, in fact, that the graves here follow an old tradition: rather than face Mecca, they face west.

    Inside, the carpeting is placed at an angle so that modern folks can face Mecca when they pray.

    The grounds feature a handful of mausoleums in which sultans and their wives have been laid to rest.

    And while I can’t read any of the script on the headstones, I do know that the rounded ones are for women, and the pointed ones are for men.
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