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Nuværende rejser

October 2023

Seattle to Japan! Læs mere
  • South Korea

    21. oktober 2023, Sydkorea ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    We docked in Sokcho, South Korea today. Our shuttle bus was surprisingly roomy, with festive lights on the ceiling and silk curtains on the windows. This was our ship’s first time in Sokcho, but they had a banner for us.

    The shuttle bus was free and dropped us at a bustling market where we wandered labyrinthine alleyways, admiring myriad fish and produce on display.

    A man sold fish shaped pastries filled with chocolate at the very first stall. I wish I’d bought one because they looked and smelled delicious. Sadly, when we returned, he had sold out for the day!

    I’m not quite sure what those phallic looking bottles contain, but when I used Google to translate, it said something about how you will be able to “stand up again if you follow the lord.” Seems rather euphemistic!

    Despite all the fish for sale, the market did not smell fishy. At times, it smelled like smoked fish, but in a tasty way. Everything looked fresh and inviting.

    Well, everything except for the bucket of bones and teeth that we came across in one of the smaller alleys!
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  • Hakodate Cemetery

    18. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Hakodate’s cemetery is located on a steep hillside with a wonderful view of the sea.

    The burial ground we explored was right beside Koryuji Temple, so it featured Buddhist monuments and symbols. I definitely saw depictions of lotus blossoms, but I’m not sure what some of the others were and will have to do some research.

    Flowers were plentiful, but other grave goods included open cans of beer.
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  • Halodate Memorial

    18. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    7 Eleven’s are plentiful in Japan, and a good place to find ATMs, or in our case today, water.

    Next to the convenience store I noticed what appears to be some sort of memorial. I have a “shoot first, ask questions later” approach when traveling, so I took photos and will research this memorial later.

    In the meantime, here’s what I saw.
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  • Hakodate Wanderings

    18. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    With a population of roughly 240,000, Hakodate is the third largest city on the island of Hokkaido. Even so, it feels more like a sleepy fishing village than a big city.

    Larry and I spent hours wandering through shopping streets and neighborhoods, and were surprised by how quiet it was. Often the main sounds were fluttering leaves and ravens cawing.

    Hakodate is known for its seafood, and the local mascot is a squid. Like other Japanese cities, the manhole covers are decorative, with some of them painted.

    I’m not a big cantaloupe fan, but the local melons look quite tasty. I was especially intrigued by an ice cream sundae featuring the fruit!

    Many streets in Hakodate are quite steep. Each of these slopes, as they are called, has a name. By the time we reached the top of one, I had stripped down to my t shirt.

    While waiting to cross the street, an elderly woman grabbed my bare arms and began rubbing them while laughing and talking a mile a minute in Japanese.

    I had no idea what she was saying, although it seemed like she was surprised I wasn’t cold.

    I find it so endearing that she felt comfortable enough to come up and touch a complete stranger. Her demeanor was so kindly. It felt like being admonished by a long lost grandmother.

    I wish I knew more than “please” and “thank you” in Japanese. I would have liked to chat with her more.
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  • Koryuji Temple

    18. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    We dropped by Koryuji Temple in Hakodate today. Established in 1633, this is the oldest Buddhist temple on Hokkaido.

    “Koryuji” translates as “high dragon temple.” The gates feature intricate wood carvings.

    Several famous Japanese are buried on the grounds, including the famous Haiku master, Basho. Even I have heard of him!

    There was also a memorial for a samurai. I will have to do more research on that. I also need to find out why so many Buddha statues have red scarves around the neck.

    So much to learn!
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  • Hakodate Morning Market

    17. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Hakodate is famous for their Morning Market which features all sorts of seafood. The local specialty, and town mascot, is squid.

    One of the shops lets customers fish squid from a tank. We looked all over, but never found it. Along the way we bumped into a tabby cat, but he had his own agenda, and couldn’t even be bothered to look at me.Læs mere

  • Miyako Iwate Wandering

    17. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After our delightful hike to Jogodohama Beach, we decided to explore the shops around Miyako Iwate’s train station.

    Like other cities we’ve seen in Japan, Miyako has decorative manhole covers, and apparently Halloween is catching on here, because I keep seeing decorations and ads for Halloween parties.

    I encountered some funny “Engrish”today including a t shirt slogan, “I’m gland to meet you,” as well as an ad for a “dry creaner’s”

    Although we snapped a selfie with the Colonel, we did not eat at KFC’s today. Instead, I bought some seaweed flavored Pringles, a roasted rice dumpling with red bean paste, and what turned out to be frozen ice cream balls.

    I associate Japan with high tech, so it was a surprise to discover that most shops are cash only.

    You don’t just hand them your money, either. There’s a little plastic dish for you to place it on. They then pick up the dish (with both hands) before placing your change in the dish for you to retrieve.

    It feels so ceremonial!
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  • Jogodohama Beach

    16. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    By the time we reached Jogodahama Beach, the sun came out and we enjoyed a sunny hike.

    I was surprised to see signs warning of bears, and delighted to see swan shaped paddle boats by the shore.

    Tsunami evacuation signs were a somber reminder of the black wave that swept through Miyako in 2011, devastating the city and causing a partial meltdown at Fukushima. A seaside memorial commemorated the many victims of that tragedy.
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  • Welcome to Miyako

    16. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    It was raining hard when we docked in Miyako, but the locals gave us a hearty welcome, featuring a large inflatable salmon, their town’s mascot.

    A free shuttle from the industrial port whisked us into town and dropped us at the train station.

    White gloves are a big deal in Japan. I’ve noticed train station employees, bus drivers, taxi drivers, immigration officers and crossing guards wearing them. Makes me think of Mickey Mouse!
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  • Yokohama Skyline

    15. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    By the time we returned to the ship, we were both soaked from the rain and sweaty, so it was time for showers.

    The late afternoon skies in Yokohama treated us to swirling pastel arabesques followed by a beautiful sail away.Læs mere

  • Yokohama Chinatown

    15. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Japan has three Chinatowns, but today we visited the biggest one of all. In 1859, Yokohama was among the first Japanese ports to open to foreign trade after two centuries of seclusion.

    As Chinese merchants moved to the city, a community soon grew. Today, Yokohama’s Chinatown Chikagai is a lively neighborhood cram jammed with shops and restaurants making it a popular tourist spot for Japanese and foreigners alike.

    I love Chinatowns, and this was no exception. My only regrets are that I did not take more photos and that we did not eat anything.

    The food looked and smelled amazing, but the lines were quite long. Before we knew it, it was time to walk back to the ship.

    Frankly, I got a little overwhelmed in Yokohama’s Chinatown, but in a good way. The same thing happens when I visit Middle Eastern souks; the sights, sounds, smells, and people watching flood my senses to the point where all I can do is observe.

    Among the photos here, you’ll see some panda shaped buns, Chairman Mao card decks, and Santa Claus.

    I would definitely enjoy a return trip here!
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  • Yokohama Walk

    15. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    After visiting the city’s famous Chinatown, we explored Yokohama on foot.

    Along the way, we passed a big Oktoberfest celebration, and I had my first encounter with one of Japan’s fancy toilets.

    I really wanted to hit the music button, but there was a big line and it took me a long time just to figure out which button would flush the darn thing.

    At one point, I thought I’d found a vending machine dispensing grits, but it turns out that “the Grits” is a local sports team, which then reminded me that Kushiro’s local team is called “the Paper Cranes.”

    Who knew that hockey was such a big deal in Japan?

    Another vending machine said “Japan Self Defense Force” next to a decidedly cute kitty cat. I’m still not sure what that one is all about!

    Yokohama has some pretty manhole covers, but the blue pedestrian sign cracked me up. What sort of rubbery armed entity has taken hold of that little girl?

    Later, on our quest for toothpaste, we saw shrink wrapped corn on the cob for sale in a pharmacy.

    We passed a group of food trucks featuring curry and kebabs and saw an Indian dance troupe performing barefoot in the rain.

    We definitely needed rain gear today. Lar used and umbrella while I donned a polka dotted rain poncho.

    All in all, a fun jaunt through Yokohama.
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  • Sea Days to Yokohama

    13. oktober 2023, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    After our brief stop in Kushiro, we’ve had two sea days as we steam south to Yokohama.

    On the first day, we had ate in one of the ship’s specialty restaurants, thanks to our toilet.

    You read that right!

    After our toilet broke several days in a row, Holland America gave us a coupon for a free lunch in the Pinnacle Grill.

    We are budget travelers and don’t usually eat in ship venues that charge an extra fee, so this was a special treat.

    Today, the lido deck featured a menagerie of towel animals. It was warm enough to open the roof, so we enjoyed some fresh air. At one point, some type of crossbill bird perched near us and peeked in. I’m always intrigued by birds that drop by cruise ships.

    After skipping lunch, we decided to try the afternoon tea. They serve tea, obviously, but there’s also a nice stack of nibbles. The bottom plate features savory finger sandwiches, the middle one has mini scones, and the top has desserts.

    The tea is a nice way to mix and mingle with other guests.

    Since many people are leaving the ship tomorrow, Larry figured out a liquor loophole. He had a friend who is disembarking buy some whisky, after which she handed the booze off to us.

    Since we’re staying on the ship longer, Holland America would keep the whisky and only give it to us as we left. They want their passengers to buy the booze onboard.

    They offer a beverage package for $50/day, but neither of us drinks that much in a day. We just buy a coffee or cocktail when the mood strikes.

    The ship had a “buy 2 whisky’s, get one Johnny Walker blue free” deal today that intrigued Larry. Neither of us are big drinkers, so I’m not sure how much of this we will end up drinking before the cruise is over. We shall see!

    As Larry said, we can always give someone one of the bottles as a gift. I think he’s mostly just chuffed over the loophole he figured out.
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  • Kushiro manhole covers

    12. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    I’ve never seen so many decorative manhole covers in one town as we did in Kushiro the other day.

  • Kushiro Walk

    12. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    Kushiro is our first stop in Japan, so there was a mandatory in person immigration. Our appointment was not until 1pm, so we could not leave the ship until the afternoon.

    We spent the morning enjoying the free local WiFi and catching up on emails, FB, and so forth.

    When our turn came, immigration went smoothly. (I haven’t looked too closely at my passport yet, but the stamp included a little QR code.)

    We hopped a free shuttle to the MOO, which is what Kushiro calls its fisherman’s wharf. Before checking that out, however, it was so pretty that we took an aimless walk.

    Along the way, we saw a flower clock, a Small Copper butterfly, and a funny mural on the side of a restaurant in which everyone’s nose was running. I guess they serve spicy food?

    I didn’t expect to see phone booths all over town, but what really surprised me were the talking billboards. They don’t just show an advertisement, but you hear promos and jingles. It felt a little surreal to me, like a mix between the movies “A Boy and His Dog,” and “Blade Runner.”

    Kushiro’s main bridge features bronze statues of women meant to represent the four seasons.

    All in all, a delightful stroll.
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  • MOO in Kushiro

    12. oktober 2023, Japan ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    After our walk, we visited Kushiro’s fisherman’s wharf aka the MOO.

    There was a lot of beautiful seafood, of course, but I’d never seen square oranges before.

    Had my first Pringles sighting, as well. I’d never realized how popular these chips were until I started traveling a lot. Now I laugh every time I see them.

    The most unusual thing we saw at the MOO was a claw vending machine that dispenses live crabs! There was only one left. A sign on the side titled, “Petty Joy” informs users that if you catch a crab with the machine they will cook it for you, but it takes an hour.
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  • Homesick in the Bering Sea

    10. oktober 2023, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 52 °F

    My great big trip started off with a great big bout of homesickness.

    September was a draining month, physically and emotionally. My dad’s memorial weekend, followed by an emergency trip to help a family member, jet lag, a bout of covid, a Yellow Fever shot, a shingles shot, a flu shot…

    By the time we boarded the ship, I was ready to relax and recharge.

    Instead, right after our stop in Juneau I came down with a nasty flu (as if there’s any other kind.)

    It’s never fun being sick, but being sick in the middle of some far flung ocean only makes me feel lonely and vulnerable.

    Doesn’t help that our inside room is claustrophobic, and the bed is hard. It’s not the nicest place to self isolate. Nights are worst. As Larry gently snoozes, I toss and turn and wish I were back home in our cozy bed with my sweet kitty, Miss Otis.

    Last night, I finally felt well enough to eat dinner on the Lido deck. I wore a mask and sat far from others. I only managed a few bites of food, but it felt good to get out of our cabin.

    As we dined, Mother Nature treated us to a magnificent sunset at sea and in that moment, my spirits lifted. I could feel my energy returning along with a rush of gratitude that brought tears to my eyes.

    It’s so easy to take good health for granted, but this fall I’ve gone through the sick/well cycle several times in short succession. As the old joke goes, “I’m sick and tired of being sick and tired!”

    If there’s a lesson in all this, I sure hope I’ve learned it. I also hope it’s a long time before I’m bedridden again, and that when it happens, I’m cuddled up at home with my sweet cat.

    I still feel a twinge of homesickness as I write this, but it’s slowly being squeezed out by excitement over visiting Japan for the very first time.
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  • Old Glacier & New Friends

    4. oktober 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    When my sister and brother in law found out we’d be in Juneau, they gave us the phone number for some dear friends of theirs, Lisa and Matt.

    Lisa picked us up after our cemetery jaunt and whisked us off to see Mendenhall Glacier, a beautiful sight.

    This was our second visit to Mendenhall Glacier. The first time we were here, we saw a mama bear nursing a cub along the nature trail. This visit is later in the year, so any mama bears have moved to higher ground.

    After a short walk we met up with Lisa’s hubby, Matt, at a little Thai food place. After hearing so much about them over the years, it was wonderful to connect and spend some time with them in person.
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  • Juneau Cemetery

    4. oktober 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Despite being established during the 1800s, Juneau’s Evergreen Cemetery mainly features flat markers, the kind that are easy to mow over, thus giving it the look and feel of a modern memorial park rather than a Victorian Era burial ground.

    I did find a few upright markers, including several white bronze monuments. I was happy to see some Native American influences, such as the orca and thunderbird.

    There were some intriguing epitaphs, as well. “He was the brightest crayon in the toolbox,” made me wonder. But my favorite epitaph reads, “Summoned by the Great Spirit.”

    I would have spent more time with that one, except that with dusk approaching, a local man stopped to warn us about bears. He said they like the cemetery as a shortcut as much as everyone else does.
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  • Tlingit Culture

    4. oktober 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    A Tlingit (pronounced “klingit”) man gave a presentation about Native American culture here in the north.

    I was surprised to learn that Tlingit speakers were also used as code talkers during WWII. It wasn’t just Navajo speakers.

    Of course, the sad irony is that these same men had been punished for speaking their native tongue while growing up. For many years, Tlingit language and culture was suppressed.

    I was happy to hear that Tlingit language and culture is making a comeback.

    The totem poles along Juneau’s pier are part of this heritage.
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  • Wandering in Juneau

    4. oktober 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Despite a rainy forecast, we enjoyed a crisp fall day in Juneau, Alaska. Rather than peruse shops, we made our way to the local cemetery for my ongoing research.

    Along the way, we passed a statue for an English terrier named Patsy Ann.

    In the 1930s, Patsy Ann earned the title of Juneau’s official greeter due to her talent for arriving at the docks well before ships arrived. Not only that, but she somehow knew which dock to wait at. To top it off, she was born deaf.

    Other sites on our jaunt to Juneau’s cemetery included a headless horseman, and a Sasquatch carrying a large beverage.
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  • The House my Dad Built

    29. august 2023, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Here’s a poem I wrote about the house my father designed and built on Lummi Island. I’ve included a photo of my parents waving goodbye after my last visit while they lived there.

    I’d always hoped the house would stay in the family, but it recently sold, thus ending a big chapter in my life.

    Lummi Island Home

    Is it really just a place?
    This house built by Dad’s hands
    Where memories toss and gather
    Like sea foam at the beach:

    Days planned around ferry runs
    High and low tide
    Berries picked with nails on sticks
    Arms scratched and ankles stung by nettles

    Walks through the forest
    And along the water’s edge
    Playing “Swamp Thing” and stuffing our pockets
    With beach rocks and seashells

    Dishes of agates gleam in long light
    Little altars to the sea
    A testament to Mom’s sharp eyes
    Nephews grow from summer to summer

    Late afternoon on the deck
    Gin and tonics, crackers and cheese
    Pine siskins and hummingbirds chatter
    Will chickadees ever eat from my hand?

    Mom’s cactus flowers bloom in pots
    Dad’s vegetable garden below
    We scan for orcas, eagles, and ship silhouettes
    But the green flash eludes us yet again

    Another orange sherbet sun
    Melts into Georgia Strait
    As the Liberty Ship bell’s shadow
    Slides around the corner
    Taking the day’s heat with it

    Deer glide through the yard
    And birds roost
    Ship lights and stars twinkle
    Nighttime brings a new quiet
    And conversation shifts

    Time to wrap an afghan around my shoulders and
    Stoke the chiminea
    Time to laugh off pre-dinner tensions
    Beneath Cassiopeia, the Big Dipper, and if we’re lucky: the Northern Lights
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  • My Dad’s Memorial Weekend

    26. august 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Our last big trip came right after my dad’s death in December 2022. Like bookends, our next big trip has begun shortly after his memorial, wake, and ash spreading.

    It was a full weekend of events from Friday to Monday of the last weekend in August. I had a few things to do in preparation, but the bulk of the planning fell squarely on my big brother’s shoulders.

    My father was quite possibly the most organized person on earth, and he made it look easy. He didn’t just shove things into boxes and file cabinets, he had a system.

    We were on the phone once, for example, when I casually asked if he had gotten a Yellow Fever shot before visiting Africa. Never mind that this trip had taken place some 50 odd years earlier.

    Dad merely replied, “Let me see.” He put the phone down, and returned in less than two minutes to say that not only had he and my mom gotten Yellow Fever shots, but he knew the exact date because he was holding their vaccine info in his hands after quickly retrieving it from his file cabinets.

    Dad’s organization gene was passed along to each of his three kids, although it manifests in each of us differently. My bro, a retired Air Force Colonel, is a master of spread sheets and pdf files. My sister, on the other hand, relies on Day Planners and handwritten lists.

    Meanwhile, I’m an odd combo of digital and analog. Not only do I keep a digital journal, but I have a handwritten one, too. (There’s something about writing by hand that I find quite grounding.)

    Since my brother handled the memorial weekend, it ran with the efficiency of a military operation and featured spreadsheets with key info highlighted on printed copies. He did an amazing job.

    The weekend officially started on Friday, when the closest relatives met for lunch at the Black Cat in Bellingham. Some of my cousins came all the way from South Carolina and Alaska. (Dad’s estate paid for everyone’s travel, which was a very thoughtful touch.)

    As we took our seats, my brother handed out updated spreadsheets along with a 40 page memoir that my dad had secretly written. I was so surprised!

    When Dad turned 70, I started pestering him to write up a memoir. He was an excellent storyteller and I didn’t want all his stories to die with him.

    At one point, Dad told me he’d started a memoir, but as the years passed, I heard less and less about it. After his bout with covid, I quit asking because I didn’t want him to feel burdened. I’m so grateful that he wrote up this memoir. What a fantastic gift to the family.

    After a tasty lunch, we took a short drive down to Bellingham’s port where we boarded a ship my brother chartered to take us out to the west side of Lummi Island.

    The weather for this sunset cruise could not have been better. What started as a choppy ride transformed into glassy water just in time for the captain to shut the engines and allow us to drift in full view of the house my father designed and built on Lummi Island. (I share a poem about this house in another post here, if you’re interested.)

    I’ve spent so many wonderful evenings sitting out on the deck of that house, sipping gin and tonics and nibbling on snacks while watching yet another glorious sun set. I’ve even seen the northern lights from that porch.

    This time, however, we were floating out in the sunset, looking back, looking up, remembering.

    As the boat slowly drifted, we took turns saying our farewells and dropping bags filled with Dad’s ashes into the water. The bags sank immediately, much to my relief. (I had worried they’d float ashore and be found by random people.)

    The bags were made of biodegradable cloth printed with the Cameron plaid, since that’s the Scottish clan my dad’s ancestors belonged to.

    Next, we took turns saying our final farewells to Dad while tossing dahlias and roses from my sister’s garden. After he and Mom moved into assisted living and Dad could no longer garden, my sister frequently cheered him with bouquets. It was the perfect finale to our ritual.

    I can’t remember exactly what I said in my farewells. I remember thanking Dad for being such a great example, and that I loved him and missed him.

    It was a beautiful experience and a perfect send off with close family.
    We even saw dolphins at one point.

    The trail of flowers gently bobbing as they floated off into the pink and gold water was an enchanting sight.

    Once ashore, we checked into our rooms at the Casino. My brother and sister in law invited everyone to their room for gin and tonics, featuring leftover gin from Dad’s abundant liquor cabinet.

    This ended up being a challenge because the hotel key cards would only let you visit the floor you were staying on, and our family was scattered all over.

    By the time I finally made it to the cocktail party, I really needed a g&t.

    After the others went to bed, my sister and I found a nook in the lobby where we could chat. We needed to decompress, and have a few giggles. At one point, she started speaking in a goofy made up language, it was just good old fashioned sister silliness.

    The next morning we took the ferry to Lummi Island, the cozy community my parents became part of after they retired in the 90s.

    There was time before Dad’s wake for a group of us to see Mom and Dad’s old house for the last time. The new owners weren’t there, so we went out onto the deck with one of the neighbors and peeked in to see how they’d redecorated. Must confess, it looks nice.

    After drinking in the view, we posed for a final photo out on the deck. It felt surreal bidding farewell to the house Dad built.

    The next day, my dad’s wake was held at the local grange hall on Lummi Island. My brother had name tags for everyone who rsvp’d. I found mine, and started greeting new arrivals.

    Dad was well loved so the place was packed. As I introduced myself to yet another couple, I suddenly blurted, “There’s Dad!”

    No sooner had the words come out of me than I felt quite embarrassed. The people I was speaking to looked startled, and I felt startled, too. The words had simply come out of me with zero forethought.

    In that instant, I actually saw my dad walking into a side entrance. He wore jeans and short sleeve button down shirt that I used to call his graph paper shirt.

    He looked to be in his mid 50s, the age he was when he built the house on Lummi. His hair was salt and pepper, he had a deep tan, and both legs.

    I quickly scanned the room to see if anyone in that area resembled Dad, but no. There was a chubby lady and a short man in shorts, vest, and ballcap, but no one who I could have mistaken for my dad.

    My sister in law was there when I blurted, “There’s Dad!” She said she felt tingly when I said it, and could feel his presence.

    All I can say is that from that point on, it felt to me as if Dad was there with us. It swept away my lingering grief and made it easier to speak when my time came.

    Aside from the ash bags, my other contributions to the memorial weekend was a slide show of Dad photos and a playlist of songs he loved. (The slideshow played on a loop during the wake, so there was no narration.)

    The music played in the background, and was barely heard, alas. It seemed like a good idea in theory, but didn’t really work in practice.

    That said, I bawled my eyes out creating the Dad Music Playlist, so it served as a cathartic act for me.

    All in all, my dad’s memorial weekend extravaganza was a wonderful tribute to his life.
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    29. september 2023