Astorga to Ponferrada

Today was a mountain biking stage, a lot of single track. Conversations were limited en route. I got a real wax stamp picturing the 'tree of life'.

It's a long grind up the mountain to over 1500 meters to reach the Cruz de Ferro and it is rocky single track. I am in a very thankful mood and I float on a cushion of joy. I did my little ceremony at the Cruz de Ferro and left my rock in the pole. A great roadside mobile cafe shortly after the Cruz de Ferro served the treat of the day.

Then a young Brazilian woman, stopped me and said "your face looks so peaceful". I suppose the vibrations are starting to go outward.

The downhill was exhilarating and I had to dismount twice to handle the wet rock and roots that my muddy tires could not hold on to.

On the old bridge in Molinaseca all the cyclists happened to be stopped at the same time. Great to reconnect as we all had encountered one another at multiple locations in the last few hundred kilometers. It's Ignacio's 60th birthday and we have a toast for him reaching the '6th floor'. A lively bunch they are.

A couple I had seen on the trail was at the plaza restaurant for a snack, they waved me over and I joined them for a beer. They had a lot to talk about and I had a great listen. Then on another lap through town on my bike, they were having dinner and it's like sitting down with long time friends at home. On the Camino life is so open and instant connections are made on levels that take years, if ever, in any other setting.

I'm at a crucial spot in Ponferrada, I must choose to either do the rest of the French route or change to the Camino Invierno which is 60 plus km longer and has multiple climbs versus one long one. Services are far fewer on Invierno but it is beautiful. I'll need to carry food. There are also very few pilgrims.

I'm not sure yet.Read more