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Camino Frances
  • Uncle Woully
ago. – sept. 2023

Camino Frances

Una aventura de 25 días de Uncle Woully Leer más
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  • Inicio del viaje
    30 de agosto de 2023
    Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Bayonne to Roncesvalles

    30 de agosto de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Got up early, and ran to the station in the rain. Jumped on the St Jean train but it went to Bordeaux instead. By the time I back tracked I ended up on the 8:52 and met another 'age appropriate' guy and had a great conversational train ride with Eric. We walked to the peregrino office and he gave me his extra credencial. I was meant to take this train. Then he escorted me out of town and I set of into the clouds and the drizzling rain. With oxygen infused blood from the high Rocky Mountains I busted up the hills like a bird on a thermal. Fantastic I'm free!

    At the dinner table I got Sebastian and Mike together since they share Australian experiences even though neither are Australian. The three of us said at the table and we are joined by a very petite and very energetic Italian girl named Virginia, she lights up the conversation and we have a fantastic evening.

    Mike is my bunk mate and he ended up getting a second bottle of wine and talk some more to Virginia as a result he was tossing and turning and snoring and I didn't get a whole lot of sleep that night but that would end up being just how it would go.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Roncesvalles to Zabaldika

    31 de agosto de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Feeling very very good. Enormous full moon setting over the trees as I walk out in the fresh morning air. Gorgeous morning sun light on the fields and the grazing cows. The Santiago sign says 790km, wowza! The track goes slightly up and down, I'm looking forward to the Zubiri descent, dancing down the hill. Ran into Esteh and later Sebastian. I'm flying and feeling so good. But I know I'll will eventually find my true Camino rhythm. Bought an orange from a vendor, best one ever. I found the albergue parochial that Ricky told me about on YouTube. Met Stefan, Matt, Sarah and others for a fabulous dinner.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Zabaldika to Puente la Reina

    1 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Matt teamed up with me and we launched down the hill to Pamplona. In town we had a quick stop as we devoured a fantastic sour dough baguette and some pastries.

    We set of to the pass del Perdon in the full sun. Wind turbines overhead milling at speed looking for Don Quixote to poke them in his fancies.

     In Obanos folks were wearing their traditional Basque white with red bandanas for the week long fiesta. Tonight is the bull run and we choose to stay in Puenta la Reina and missed a fabulous albergue, next time I'll use the Gronze app! Had to the hike back 3k for the fiesta in flip flops, we got pinned down in Obanos by rain and then a hail storm, but escaped in the only 15 minute clearing.

    I stressed the front of my shins just above the ankle in the process though and that would become the start of my "Camino adjustment".    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Puente la Reina to Estella

    2 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Rain. Lots of rain. So much rain that the trail and the tunnels flooded. It was great fun to splash along the trail and stand in knee deep water rushing through my legs. We're soaked. It would have been a much longer day if not for the conditions. The stressed shin is also dragging me back and it is manifesting serious pain. It's the fourth day and by now the pace is causing some fatigue, I take a nap for lunch. We make too much dinner in the kitchen with the other Italians.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Estella to Los Arcos

    3 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The shin is inflamed it hurts and I am going to try to slowly move forward to keep the momentum going. I stumble to Los Arcos, where I find an albergue full of Camino friends. Stefan, Sarah, Eric, the airplane Bayern, Diane, the Indian girl all of them on the plaza having dinner and drinking beers and wine. An impromptu gathering, very fun.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Los Arcos to Viana

    4 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The 'regular' section is to Logrono. But my shin is feeling terrible, swollen, red and aching I know that it needs rest, ice, elevation and compression. The way is much too far, it's better to heal up and then set off again able to enjoy a peppy walk versus dragging along. So I stopped in Viana. I found the gardens of Serratt by the old church and spent the afternoon reading a book that was left in the albergue. It was fate once again, just the text I needed to read at this stage of my Camino. The Inner Work. Had an unplanned dinner at the Oasis, where the wonderful Canadian owner presented me with a cooling compress for my shin. Then ran into Virginia again, surprise! Marco from Sweden and an Asian guy whose name I didn't catch. Wonderful time.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Viana to Navarette

    5 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A late start. I'm sitting in the entrance of the albergue, nobody is present, a woman walks in and is looking for the manager. She found a Tennessee drivers license. I tell her that I might be able to find this person online and at worst send the license back to the address, but I would probably find her on the Camino. She entrusts the card to me and says she is happy it will find it's way back. I run into Sebastian from Sweden and talk to him, he needs poles and I need a sleeping bag. But instead of turning left to the store, I turn a quick right to grab a baguette. There at the Oasis cafe I recognize the owner of the drivers license! Hello, your middle name is Marie. She frowns. How do you know that? Astonished even more as I hand her the lost drivers license, she exclaims, "How? I mean I didn't even know I lost it. This is amazing." She is a wonderful being, I know because I had already left a message on her Instagram and saw how she lives her life. She is a saint. I'm glad my small gesture can make her life better. She blesses me with a prayer, it was wonderful. The Camino is at work. So many fortuitous events cannot happen in such a short time without spiritual intervention. It is all meant to be. I read some more of my book 'The Inner Work' as I board a bus to save my shin. I'll walk again. This is my mulligan, just one well chosen bye, I'll miss walking the industrial zona of Logrono. The only other assist I might choose is a lighter load tomorrow to let my shin get back into the groove of walking. In Navarette I run into the Indian girl and then Matt who teamed up with a Hongarian woman named Suzie. We have a great conversation on the terrace in the sun and catch up. So great to reconnect quickly.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Navarette to Najera

    6 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Left nice and early with the hope that the shin is going to hold up. But with 4km left to go to Najera the pain started shooting and I hobbled into the outskirts which were uninspiring and I was thinking I'll take a bus elsewhere, but then by the river and the old town a beautiful spot appears. I am going to spend some time here watching pilgrims walk by. The plane will have to be delayed and I need probably 4 or 5 days to let it heal properly. Not a bad spot at all to hang out!Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Najera healing sojourn

    7 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I have two nights in the current Albergue. At breakfast I met Carla and we had a very nice conversation over coffee until I went to the pool for a fantastic swim in a 50 m basin. It's a beautiful summer day and Eric, whom I met on the train to St Jean, joined us for dinner over a wine fueled, spirited spiritual conversation. So far the Camino is a compressed microcosm of life, presenting fortuitous serendipity in rapid succession. I'm letting it unfold and come to me. I'm here, I'm pleasantly relaxed, unfettered by my injury. My walking Camino has been altered into a purely spiritual Camino, reading The Inner Work and doing this work is already paying off dividends in self love and peace. A slower pace which was something identified during days 1 and 2 when I was flying across the path as an excited, competitive, impatient even, goal driven pilgrim, completely unaware of the real gift this Camino can bestow. Looking back it seems silly and I know there is so much more transformation ahead. Can I transcend? It would have been my mother's 97th birthday and she was fond of saying, "The sun always shines on my birthday".Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Healing is not happening

    8 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    My second day hanging out at the 50 meter pool. It's a beautiful day for it. I'm relaxed. I realize that I could be here until Monday and the inflammation might still be flaring up. Walking might not be the best way to proceed to Santiago. Bus is out of the question. So the idea struck me the buy a bicycle. Decathlon in Logrono has a decent bike for just 265 euros. I call and the right size is in stock. Decision made. No accommodations in Najera available so I camp by the river tonight. There is a band playing until midnight and I luck out - I'm not subject to the 22:00 curfew. 5 encores! The crowd would not let them stop.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Camino Conversion

    9 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    I'm a convert but not the kind you might be thinking off. I went from walking pilgrim to cycling pilgrim.
    Took the bus down to Logrono, the bike was all set up by Eugenio, and we added two bags and I was out the door in less than half an hour. It feels great to be back on the road again. I feel bad about not being a walking pilgrim. However the intention of the pilgrimage remains the same. The Camino has its reasons. Upon coming through Santo Domingo I met a group of cyclists who waved me to join them. They are from Chile and I'll look to ride with them tomorrow.Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Granon to Atapuerca

    10 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I got 9 hours of sleep. Even rode up the steep hills. Riding is so different from walking. It's not the same experience on the Camino, but it's the experience I can get and it's sure better than taking the bus.

    I meet the 80 year old lady from Maui again. She is the light of the Camino, she radiates and glows of happiness.

    I run into Mike from Germany my bunk mate at Roncesvalle. He's doing well with a big day yesterday and a shorter one today. I pass many walking pilgrims on my bike and that makes my trip feel weird.

    I was going to go to Burgos, but I ran into Eric whom I met on the train the first day. He has been well on track and with my offset schedule I got behind him. Now I ride slowly next to him and the conversation starts. We find out about the best water in the region and Eric almost takes a ride on a wheelbarrow. When he gets to his destination in Atapuerca I decide to stay there as well. Good move. We had a great bunch of conversations. A fun filled evening.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Reliegos to Leon

    13 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Roommates were giggling last night as they went to sleep and Colleen, the 61 year old acting as 'mother' of the group was smiling just enjoying the youthfulness. They snuck out quietly in the morning and I slept in for a late start.

    Easy ride into Leon, too early to check in, I stashed the bike on the third floor landing. I strolled around the city and tested the shin with some 6 miles. No go, shin splint still acting up. I met two other young hikers who also have it in the same spot.

    I ran into the Chileans and had a mixed conversation in English and Spanish, I was supposed to meet up with them here but they didn't let me know they were already at lunch. I soloed the afternoon until I ran into Colleen and did dinner with the gang. The conversation did not get very deep but enjoyable nonetheless. Beautiful entertaining city, life is vibrant here.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Leon to Astorga

    14 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    What a start for the day! I sauntered on over to the Church plaza and acted as photographer for pilgrims at the Leon sign. I sent of some 5 groups on their Camino for the day including the Chileans. Last night's dinner group also showed up and the mood was cheerful. I visited the inside of the cathedral which is astounding, a must see.

    Had a great time meeting up again with Matt from Italy with whom I hiked so strong in the beginning. So great to see him again and our banter was as fun as ever.

    I set off to no destination in particular as long as I follow yellow arrows. Ideal temps, a couple of absolutely huge croissants devoured on the Orbigo bridge and life is extremely good.

    A wave of extreme happiness washes over me as I explore Astorga - The vibrations keep getting higher. Inner peace is happening.

    Ran into Henk and Magda two Dutch cyclists who I met before Leon as they were just starting dinner and I was able to join and we had a very fun conversation in Dutch. Great folks those two.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Astorga to Ponferrada

    15 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today was a mountain biking stage, a lot of single track. Conversations were limited en route. I got a real wax stamp picturing the 'tree of life'.

    It's a long grind up the mountain to over 1500 meters to reach the Cruz de Ferro and it is rocky single track. I am in a very thankful mood and I float on a cushion of joy. I did my little ceremony at the Cruz de Ferro and left my rock in the pole. A great roadside mobile cafe shortly after the Cruz de Ferro served the treat of the day.

    Then a young Brazilian woman, stopped me and said "your face looks so peaceful". I suppose the vibrations are starting to go outward.

    The downhill was exhilarating and I had to dismount twice to handle the wet rock and roots that my muddy tires could not hold on to.

    On the old bridge in Molinaseca all the cyclists happened to be stopped at the same time. Great to reconnect as we all had encountered one another at multiple locations in the last few hundred kilometers. It's Ignacio's 60th birthday and we have a toast for him reaching the '6th floor'. A lively bunch they are.

    A couple I had seen on the trail was at the plaza restaurant for a snack, they waved me over and I joined them for a beer. They had a lot to talk about and I had a great listen. Then on another lap through town on my bike, they were having dinner and it's like sitting down with long time friends at home. On the Camino life is so open and instant connections are made on levels that take years, if ever, in any other setting.

    I'm at a crucial spot in Ponferrada, I must choose to either do the rest of the French route or change to the Camino Invierno which is 60 plus km longer and has multiple climbs versus one long one. Services are far fewer on Invierno but it is beautiful. I'll need to carry food. There are also very few pilgrims.

    I'm not sure yet.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Ponferrada to Sarria

    16 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I wake up at 3am to a thunderous amount of snoring coming from the three other old guys they stuck in a room together with this geezer. The walls were shaking. 4hrs of sleep and my brain gets going, I'm hardly in my fantastic new euphoric state anymore. Doubt creeps in, amongst other things decision time is still the big choice this morning. I'm all packed and ready to go, but where? 180km or so to Santiago - just bust it out and walk to the coast to test my shin for the next three days? The weather does not look great, I'd rather walk then ride in it. The Invierno is just so off track and with bad weather it has potential to not be very fun. Very different from the Frances. Let's stay on Frances, punch it out. Let's go test the walking while keeping the bike on hand. And let's go find that balance back!

    Oh boy today. Started under heavy rain. Lucky it let up. The mood got better. My attachments let go, met Brazilian cyclists. Then British and a Dutch tandem husband and wife. Really fun I jumped on their wheel climbing the approach to Cebreiro pass. They stopped before the steep part, I went up ahead and followed a guy with a backpack and a shell up a step incline. I went the wrong way but I didn't know until I had climbed over 2000 ft. Stuck on the wrong road I got to add another 2000 extra for the day. Sometimes you just never learn.

    But then again you do. I got to detach a strong feeling from it's object today and I was able to key back into the present when out of it. That's a win for today!

    Oh by the way the chart in the albergue was wrong it was 235km, add the detour and that makes for an interesting day.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Sarria to Santiago

    17 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    6:45 start with the headlamp, the famous Sarria crowds were completely absent. Beautiful morning as the sun rose and a nice undulating landscape.

    In Portomarin the crowds had woken up and they were out in force, including bunches of cyclists. I had my task ready for me; get to Santiago so I can start walking again. I'm encouraged by a much improved shin splint as far as I can tell. So it will be some 115km today. I'm motivated.

    Due to the switch to the bike I have lost my Camino family from the start, but I have made new connections along the way. It works better to do shorter distances and have more time for conversation. Today is just not one of those days. I still met three wonderful Malaysian ladies as I slowed down to engage in that conversation amongst others. Previously, I had been told to visit Malaysia so they piqued my interest.

    I had a good fueling stop in del Rey after 4 hrs of riding and a small one 2 hrs later.

    All was well until the rain got serious and the wind picked up. At just over 100km I started losing body heat. In Santiago I was rudely rebuffed in the first bar while looking like a wet, cold shivering pilgrim. I guess they see it every day, no big deal. I did get food from the bank of vending machines, they didn't balk at my condition and happily dispensed multiple coffees and a sandwich.

    Coming into the cathedral plaza in this state with that windy wet weather was completely anti-climactic. A veteran of multiple Caminos looking like a wayward gypsy who does nothing but travel the world took some pictures and we chatted for as long as I could without going hypothermic. Here I was, my official Camino complete and it was nothing like I had imagined. I got so much out of it so fast.

    After a hot shower that must have drained all the hotel hot water for the next week, I skipped through the rain drops into the nearest bar to find another solo traveler, Michel from Switzerland, and we had a great conversation and meal together. On the way back musicians were playing in a bar and you know I had to hang out there for a bit too.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Santiago

    18 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke up with all my possessions strewn all over the room and a school full of children happily and noisily entering the school yard behind the hotel. If it hadn't been for them I would have way overslept.

    I chose to get a bite first and look at my plans as I am quite confused now. My shin acted up last night while walking a bit in town. So I need to stay on the bike. Finisterra first, Michel showed me some of his pictures last night, it's a must.

    Lovely cafe, I wrap up still confused but just plain happy to be alive. I grab my credencial and head to the pilgrim office to get that last stamp and the Compostela. Then to the hotel and I make a bag of items to leave there, took out quite a bit of weight actually. Simple is always better.

    Then I head out on the bike and go by the cathedral plaza first. It's slightly sunny and nice. People are hanging about, tourists, peregrinos and locals. I just sit there watching the energy flow. Peregrinos who have accomplished their task. All the emotions are showing and it is joyful to watch.

    I turn to have a last look and I see two cyclists and I hear a loud yell; Wouter! It is Henk and Magda who just rode in. It's unbelievable timing. Three times we have fortuitously run into each other and it's always a great laugh. We tell our stories, as they had taken a train and I had put down heavy metal over the past three days. This completely made my day and the sentiment of arriving in Santiago now is completely satisfying.

    It is going to rain again in two hours. I chose the closest albergue on the way to Finisterra and set out at 2pm. I poke along again in a feeling of love and peace completely unattached to any object or person. I suddenly find myself forgiving those who I felt had wronged me over the years. Quite an unexpected emotion.

    I arrive at what is easily the best albergue in all of Spain and treat myself to yet another coffee and torta on a veranda with a view as buckets of rain drop from the sky. I could not be luckier. Ok, I'm by myself but that's alright.

    Communal dinner tonight. I might just have to take an old man nap first. I sat with Laura and Reidvard from Latvia and we had a deep yet very funny conversation that went on for two hours. They have completed the Camino Portugues and had also met Michel who I had dinner with last night. Small world this Camino.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    To the coast - slowly

    19 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    On the other side of Santiago things change a little bit. People don't really say buen camino they just say hola.

    My own vibe is also more subdued. I set of early again, it's what I'm used to. It wasn't really all that cold but super wet and I soon needed time in a cafe where a young Czech explained the Primitivo to me, she had just walked it and the Norte. Being wet and chilled already, I'm not sure anymore that would be such a great plan. The beach keeps sounding better all the time.

    I roll on, mellow and in thought, no zen. Wondering if I should have taken more time instead of gunning for a second Camino. Next to me I hear Dutch and I strike up a conversation with them. They stop in Olveiroa only 6km away. I could ride longer but I'd rather have a nice dinner conversation. It turns out to be a cool little village and a great dinner.

    I have from now until October 6 to get my shin to heal, so going to slow down, see if I can hook up with some of my Camino friends at some point.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Muxia

    20 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Easy ride and just 33km. The weather is holding up until this afternoon and I'm enjoying this ride.

    Suddenly, I see the dark blue of the Atlantic, breathtaking!

    I have late breakfast in Muxia and share ride stories with two Canadians who rode up from Porto, which is a good possible ride for me from here.

    I have a great time hiking all over the rocks along the coast watching the wind whip up the waves that crash on the rocky shores.

    I get the feeling that I'm not hooking up with anyone for dinner tonight and I might just have to dig into some travel planning and reading instead. Yesterday evening I wrote a lot in my small inner work book. While it seems easy, implementing it is another story. It will need a lot of practice.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    Km 0,000

    21 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    It's hard to put into words.

    Too many new memories.

    Met great people.

    The yellow arrows led to the final sign.

    Km 0,000

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    The way back Fis-Stgo

    22 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Fisterra, the end of the known world in the middle ages. I left some more cares on the rocky ledges of this cape.

    Under darkness I got away early, chased by clouds and drizzle. In Cee I find a wonderful cafe serving mini churros with the coffee so I had to have another. Properly energized I rode up to the intersection where people have to pick Muxia or Fisterra. I met one of the Dutch cyclist again and we talked for a while. Heleen left her house out the front door in Haarlem, the city nearby where I grew up, and rode her city bike with a small electric assist all the way to Fisterra. That's a pretty good feat, but Heleen is in her 70s and she is very adventurous.

    A bit later in the lunch cafe I got great intel on the Camino Portugues from an Irish hipster. That group was alive and great fun.

    I'm feeling good after the shorter days. Matt already made it to Santiago, I'm staying 8km out of Santiago at Case do Boi. It's the nicest albergue in Spain imho. It's my second time here. I talked Matt into coming over, so we'll have a nice reunion dinner.

    I think reconnecting with Carla and Eric also has really high probability at the end of the Portugues.

    Matt made it and we invited the winning to sit with us for dinner and it was a riot and time of great laughter. When you put the right people together it gets really great.    Leer más

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  • Uncle WoullyViajeroCamino Frances

    A car show and a wedding

    23 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Woke up in Casa do Boi, where I feel very much at home since I stayed there twice and it is the first element of familiarity since leaving Colorado. Breakfast with the dinner crew, Michelle at 78 is one of the most lively personalities of the Camino. Matt moves on. We might end up on the Shikoku pilgrimage in March next year.

    It's admin day, but I still managed to ride 30km. Some required maintenance on the bici at Decathlon and a bus ride to Porto in the late afternoon.

    It is summer today and it feels so good after the Atlantic weather patterns on the coast of Galicia. It couldn't be nicer and the people in Santiago are all bustling outside and enjoying it.

    Coming through the plaza at the cathedral there is a car show stealing the thunder of the incoming pilgrims. I'm not sure how they feel about this.

    On the way to the bus, coming back through town I catch a bride and groom ceremonially exiting the church. An awesome moment.

    I have some further growth moments about life and I take some more notes.

    I board the BlaBlaBus and sit next to an enchanting woman from Germany, named Melanie, and the conversation gets going in German, which I have not really spoken since 1981. She is kind about it and we make it through my stumbles all the way to Porto 3 hours later. She is a great to talk to and she's living a lot of new adventures as she is between jobs. It is the bla bla bus after all.

    I'm in Porto and I'll start the Camino Portugues for another adventure. I might actually have to start another trip on Penguins.    Leer más

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    Fin del viaje
    23 de septiembre de 2023