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- Day 19
- Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 6:43 PM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 441 m
SpainSarria42°46’52” N 7°24’52” W
Sarria to Santiago

6:45 start with the headlamp, the famous Sarria crowds were completely absent. Beautiful morning as the sun rose and a nice undulating landscape.
In Portomarin the crowds had woken up and they were out in force, including bunches of cyclists. I had my task ready for me; get to Santiago so I can start walking again. I'm encouraged by a much improved shin splint as far as I can tell. So it will be some 115km today. I'm motivated.
Due to the switch to the bike I have lost my Camino family from the start, but I have made new connections along the way. It works better to do shorter distances and have more time for conversation. Today is just not one of those days. I still met three wonderful Malaysian ladies as I slowed down to engage in that conversation amongst others. Previously, I had been told to visit Malaysia so they piqued my interest.
I had a good fueling stop in del Rey after 4 hrs of riding and a small one 2 hrs later.
All was well until the rain got serious and the wind picked up. At just over 100km I started losing body heat. In Santiago I was rudely rebuffed in the first bar while looking like a wet, cold shivering pilgrim. I guess they see it every day, no big deal. I did get food from the bank of vending machines, they didn't balk at my condition and happily dispensed multiple coffees and a sandwich.
Coming into the cathedral plaza in this state with that windy wet weather was completely anti-climactic. A veteran of multiple Caminos looking like a wayward gypsy who does nothing but travel the world took some pictures and we chatted for as long as I could without going hypothermic. Here I was, my official Camino complete and it was nothing like I had imagined. I got so much out of it so fast.
After a hot shower that must have drained all the hotel hot water for the next week, I skipped through the rain drops into the nearest bar to find another solo traveler, Michel from Switzerland, and we had a great conversation and meal together. On the way back musicians were playing in a bar and you know I had to hang out there for a bit too.Read more