Azores

October 2023
13 days in these incredible Islands, ending with a visit to my cousins Jan and Rob in Amsterdam. Read more
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  • Day 12

    Discover São Miguel

    October 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Somebody is yelling in Portuguese in the hostel at 6am, I stick my head out to see. It's Tiago who happened to stay in the bunk next to mine. He had come in at 2 am and woke up too late for his flight. After all his worrying about getting stuck on Flores he partyed his flight away. I feel for him.

    I walk to the airport to go get the car, I hope they are open. A nice Peugeot 2008 awaits me. Off to Sete Cicades, it's overcast, the impressive imploded volcano crater is huge, only 36,000 years old. I take the trail along the lake and run into downed trees and the walk becomes sporty. Just the way I like it.

    This is a big island, I explore Mosteiros by the coast. I can always sit and watch waves crash ashore. It never gets old. Then to Furnas, where the hot baths are. I have a zero percent beer sitting in a wall in the last sunshine warming up.

    The bath at Poca Da Dona Bejia is exactly what my body needs after two months of hard exercise. I enjoy the hard pummeling of falling water and the sulphuric healing. I truly come out a renewed body.

    Back in PDL I stand in a long line for a for truck kebab that I enjoy with my beer.
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  • Day 12

    Furnas & Nordeste

    October 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    It's going to be an easy day, soak in the spa, relax, no hiking today. The hostel has breakfast and today I get to enjoy it with Dieter, a German man about my age, who gets 7-8 weeks away from his wife every year. He mostly spends it traveling on the Camino, so we had a lot to talk about.

    Furnas is probably my favorite town on this island, it's small and it has great hot baths and restaurants. Poça da Dona Beija is the best, strong water, an hour and a half is all you need here. Today I go to Terra Nostra, a large oval bath, set in a botanical garden. The gardens blow me away for a good two hour stroll through calm forests despite the public.

    I soak for a few hours after that and realize when I get out that my hair has an orange tone to it, I hope that comes out. With enough time I jump in the car to take a drive up to Salto do Cavalo, a high point lookout nearby. The rental car is a Peugeot 2008, great handling and smooth powerful engine, a pleasure to drive and after enjoying the view I take the car around to East side of the island. Go through Nordeste and find a cape jutting out northwards for the sunset. Turns out it is a fantastic Miradouro and there is a full gale blowing. Awesome moments here.

    It's too early for the sunset and as I search for another coastal spot I end up back at Cavalo from where I see lots of clouds at sea level. This might be the best spot. A quick dash down to Furnas and a burger at La Queicheria. The line is long at Beija but I want to go so I wait. Totally worth it. The next day I would notice that the shin splint appears to be gone. Amazing.
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