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Azores

October 2023
13 days in these incredible Islands, ending with a visit to my cousins Jan and Rob in Amsterdam. Read more
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  • TravelerAzores
    Day 1

    Azores Terceira

    October 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Sleeping in the Porto and Lisbon airports actually worked out quite well since I had some gear. The free lounge upgrade provides a sweet treat on my long layover.

    Two flights with window seats and a rental car at the end made for a break from the bicycle routine. It's not the Camino anymore.

    On Terceira,Angra do Heroismo is a city protected by UNESCO as a heritage site. I park and start walking towards the fort and the trail that leads to the view points. I'm in the middle of the Atlantic on a volcanic rock. A trail running race is being held and I see people finishing a 35km run muddied all over, apparently not an easy race at all. It reminds me of the times I've done long distance trail runs and I wish I was still in shape for this.

    I try to catch a sunset on the west coast and find a billboard on the way telling me there is a jazz concert tonight. I get tickets and stay in town for a mountain cheese sandwich that was delicious. The jazz concert is advanced new jazz pieces. Drum, bass, piano and sax. Top notch.

    I drive to the hostel to finally get some sleep. I've been short the last few nights and I want to hike tomorrow. But there are a lot of young people in the road obviously going to a party. I hear music. The fences block me from following Betty's directions. I go around and park. As I walk up to the hostel I hear the band and it's live, 80's cover, and it's good. The stage is set up right in front of the hostel and the front deck is the perfect vantage point to see the show. Guess who is not got to sleep yet? After the incredible act fireworks break lose, what a party!    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 2

    Terceira hike

    October 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Woke up a bit late. Slept well. Got going right away to the center of the island where the hikes are. I thought I would be on single track trails but it turns out parts of the trail are on the road. I managed to stratigically park and pick shorter trails to spare the shin that is not healing yet. The fog hangs overhead and the fumaroles are smoking, it's 130 celcius just two feet below the surface. I have the place to myself. In some places the crust of the earth is so thin, it feels like the lava could be just under your feet.

    Drove around and to the next spot. The trail is awesome, skinny, rutted and the trees are covered with moss. Yesterday's running race went through here.

    Off to the airport again. Yesterday I decided to cut Terceira short in favor of Flores. I get to fly the Q400 twin turbo prop. What a plane! Short take off and smooth.

    Flores is something else, the flora is luxuriant and exotic. The volcanic landscape is vertical rock along the coast.

    Late solo dinner, meat and potatoes land, veggies are hard to come by, Oliver would love it.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 3–7

    Around the Pink House

    October 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    I'm getting settled in here. The pink house hostel has a few residents from USA and Spain, they are millennials and they work from the road via their PCs and the internet. I update Facebook for the first time in a month. The Camino is done and it is time to gently slide back into life even if I'm still on the road. Actually I will continue to be on the road from here with home breaks.

    I go to the coast which is all lava rock and watch the breakers beat up the rough black land. I hang here for a few hours watching the spectacle. I mosy on over to the waterfall not too far away and stay there for an hour as well, I'm solo, no tourists so it is a peaceful time and it is drop dead gorgeous on Flores with sun, wind, squalls all taking turns.

    I have too many pictures to post today... I tease my friends online with a few.

    I drive to the Helios store and stock up on 4 days worth of vegetables and other healthy items. Finally time to recuperate.

    Back in the hostel I talk to Alfredo who walked 27km out and back along the northern trail and Madison from Canada who sounds like a valley girl. Helena from the Pyrenees is a patient conversationalist as we switch back and forth between Spanish and English to get our points across. Devon has been working on his PC all day making sales calls. I'm happy to be here for a bunch of days.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 5–8

    South end Flores

    October 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Breakfast of champions and drive towards the south, got lost again and found a nice farmers field that I explored. A hot spring apparently exist at the end of a 1600 meter trail that ends in a rock climbing session to reach the pool. I didn't go for it.

    The wind is absolutely howling and the Atlantic is whipped into a frenzy of white caps. It's a sight to behold. I love this kind of weather. It was supposed to rain all day but the sun is shining warmly. I drop into the steep descent of rocky single track all the way to sea level. At the end is a secluded beach and at the end of the beach are a few house sized boulders sitting in the surf getting pummeled by the eternal swells. I could sit there for hours and so I do. The luxury of time. It's a South facing beach and what is the first land mass from here? Antarctica!

    Back at the hostel energy is low, it's just a feeling. I head back out and go bouldering to another giant waterfall. This one has a head wind and the falling water is swept sideways and back up. Stunning and mesmerizing.

    A French woman arrived at the hostel, she is excited and her mood lifts up the entire energy field of the place. That's more like it.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 5

    Mosteira Trail

    October 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I have no destination, the luxury of time and no ticket out of here. The plan for today is driven by Annaelle, la Francaise. Let's go for breakfast at the chique Aldeia da Cuada for a full buffet.

    Then we hiked the nearby trail from Mosteiro to Lajedo. 3km took us 3 hours with lots of breaks which were mostly for gawking at the incredible scenery around just about every corner and in between. It rained a few times for 5 minutes as it does here. There are four of us, Helena a young Basque woman and ... a Portuguese Swiss resident 22 year old, who is very sociable. It's a nice very fun loving group. After a town visit in Lajedo we go back the same way a bit faster this time.

    Not even time for a shower once we get back to the hostel, we go to the bar for a sunset beer. Alfredo joins but Annaelle goes her own direction. Great fun conversation that continues with yet more beer and a typical Portuguese dish, called Franzijha, "a little French" basically a croque monsieur with extra sausage, steak, way more cheese, eggs and a local sauce. Insanely good local fare. I'm told I look like a Greek philosopher. More beer flows in Flores and we don't get back until early the next day, as we closed down the bar. What a classic day with great people.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 6–9

    Flores lagoas

    October 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I get a late start as I am trying to figure out how many more days shall I stay. I get my laundry in and need to return the rental car, so I get another one that's cheaper for the next 3 days. Still plenty of hiking to do here.

    The lakes in the crater are a good choice for today as the weather is clear up high. The trail is really muddy though and suddenly the late night is catching up to me and I'm good for a midday nap.

    I high tail it to Ponta Delgada and find a kids play ground with the safety mats that make a good rest spot. About 15 women between 60 and 80 were having a party at the picnic tables. I take my shoes of and give them a chance to start drying out and I rest.

    Overall a pretty mellow day, I change out the car, drive back to the pink and make dinner, talk with ... and a plan comes together for tomorrow with Alfredo to hike from Cedros.

    I have clean laundry, a full belly, ready to go to bed but I should have a look at a flight and hostel on Sao Miguel, but I can't keep my eyes open.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 7

    Ponta Delgada to Cedros

    October 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Three of us, Alfredo, .. and I
    set off to do a trail from Ponta Delgada to Cedros and it was more than a handful but absolutely beautiful and adventurous. Luckily we had done a car shuttle.

    First we came onto a small creek that flowed into a pool and past two boulders it dropped as a waterfall under the bridge into another pool. The way the stone was shaped by the water and the lush vegetation was breathtaking.

    We went out on a cape and stood for a while looking over the cliff into the surf and the two bays, amazing views in all directions are continue to be amazed by this place. The weather is overcast but it can't dampen our mood.

    Then we got lost on an abandoned trail and bush wacked through the over grown path through this jungle. It was great fun as we climbed for 45 minutes in these conditions. We finally get back to the trail and we think we will can start making some time, but the trail is windy, steep and slippery in the rainy conditions. I check the time and the distance left to travel and I estimate based on Komoot that we will arrive in the dark if we continue at this pace. An option is to take the road back for the last section. That was the safe choice but it turns out that Alfredo checked the trail the next day and it was not bad at all and we could have done it.

    We get to the car kind of weary and get the shuttle completed. Alfredo goes back right away and ... and I wait for a store to open so he can buy cigarettes. Poor kid is addicted. On the way back we drive up to the top of the island at 980 meters clouds are hanging in the sky below us. The whole place is just out of of this world. Down by the beach we watch a sunset that is absolutely stunning as it fills the entire sky in many hues from red to purple. We miss Alfredo, but he didn't miss the sunset. His picture is award winning.

    We go for beers and dinner in the exact same spot at Papadiamandis and we miss Helena's company who left yesterday. But its a great conversation nonetheless.

    Note:
    Essential oils for sports people
    Gaultheria, eucalyptus citronné    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 8

    Corvo Island

    October 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Woke up intending to walk the trail behind the pink house, but a group was excitedly going to Corvo with great weather. I switched my plan in a nano second and was on my way to join them. Irene (Dutch), Annaelle (French) and the Spanish couple.

    The boat ride starts with an astonishing ride in and out of the coastal bays, in and out of grottoes and under waterfalls. This alone was worth the price of admission and the weather is perfect for it. We start crossing the straight between Flores and Corvo. It's further than you think.

    A shuttle took us up to the top from where you can hike straight into the enormous crater of this extinct volcano. It's absolutely huge. We're told it is possible to hike to the rim as well. I set off fairly fast despite a total lack of sleep. It's just too stunning.

    On the other side of the crater, I think it is a good spot to start going to the ridge. As I climb to the top I almost trip as the earth just disappears from under me at the edge. A cliff of 480 meters drops vertically into the sea. It's jaw dropping, even after seeing so many amazing sights in the last week here is yet another scene that can't even be imagined and it's superlative. Pictures can never do it justice.

    Annaelle is coming up behind me and the Spanish couple too, I wait for them while devouring a fantastic lunch of veggies, eggs, cheese and sauerkraut mixed up by the wavy seas. The couple needs to get down to catch the shuttle, while Annaelle and I continue navigating along the rim trail, thinking we have plenty of time as we're planning to walk down to catch the boat on time.

    We met some French guys and compare plans and hear how long it took them and we decide to take a faster route. Good call as it turns out we catch the same van to return into town as all the others. I'm pooped and that saved my shin.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 9

    Major storm system travel day

    October 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Travel day to fly to São Miguel, but a major storm system is passing through and planes might not fly today. I go for a short hike to the water falls I had not seen yet. Awesome quick run hike that gets me nicely sweaty and I can still take a shower in the hostel before I drive Tiago to the airport. I'll try to get on his plane as well.

    Nice plan but the weather is intense and flights are cancelled. Alfredo joins us at the airport as all three were flying out the same day. So now we're in the same hotel and we're going out to dinner courtesy of SATA airlines supposedly we'll get a refund.

    Alfredo is saying we need to stop joking about being here forever since the universe seems to listen and block us from leaving. We agree, but Tiago has to joke him one more time. Good times with those two.    Read more

  • TravelerAzores
    Day 11

    Travel try again

    October 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I get up to go for a run along the coastal road in town and explore the old whaling harbor. The sun rise is fantastic and run into Tiago and Alfredo as they go to breakfast. I have a couple of coffees and the vibration is a bit classic with the local guy who is very forward.

    It's the waiting game with SATA now. Tiago leaves at 1240, Alfredo and I at 1545 but all flights incur huge delays. Alfredo and I go for a long walk on a back road. Not to great for the shin actually. I shower at the piscina naruturais another coffee and we wait some more at the airport. They say if you come to Flores for three days you might have to stay for a week. But that is a good thing because Flores is fantastic. It's my favorite island in the Azores.

    Last minute I decide to change to the direct flight to PDL. I wait to get a car rental. I had a mess renting through carjet and cancelled without refund. Yuk. I'll get one once I land. That back fires and there are no cars, except at the closed counter. I catch a taxi courtesy of the cancelled Boston flight guys who have a voucher. In search of wifi I stop for dinner and get a treat, seared tuna and it's delicious. It took two full days to get to PDL.    Read more

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